Profire 610 - for now - need some input

[easypete]

I'm just 3 weeks old in the computer-as-a-digital-input-device world. I've learned a lot in the past 3 weeks, but need some advice.

 

I was waiting for the release of the Peachtree Audio DACiT (stuck in customs, shipping early August). In the meantime, I became interested in the Schiit Bifrost. Leaning towards the Bifrost w/ the Toslink input.

 

I've read a few threads on the Profire 610 in some systems. I actually have one (use for recording in my studio). This weekend, I inserted it into my system as a stand-alone DAC. Over the analogue output of the computer, I'm very impressed, but I have some questions:

 

1. Could this be a permanent solution? This was just sitting on my shelf, I have upgraded the studio to a Profire 2626 (4 inputs weren't enough).

 

2. What's the best method of connecting the output of the Profire into the my system? Currently, I'm using some 1/4" x RCA converters (probably HOSA) into Audioquest Diamondbacks. I don't like the converters. Are there better converters out there? I didn't see an option from Audioquest for a 1/4" x RCA cable, is this possible? I know that on the Blue Note project, they re-wired a studio w/ Audioquest cable. They had to do this w/ 1/4" terminations.

 

3. In the threads that I was reading, it seemed that the Profire 610 was not run stand alone, but rather a conversion from the computer to the DAC. Is there a quick explanation for this?

 

4. The Mac Mini is Firewire 800, the Profire610 is Firewire 600. I'm using a Best Buy (gulp!!!) firewire 800 cable w/ a 800/600 converter on the end of it. For a digital cable upgrade, Audioquest will make a cable for this. The Diamond is out of the question, but is there a big enough difference between the Carbon and the Cinnamon to justify the extra $100? Or, am I wasting money on a cable, if I should replace the Profire w/ the Schiit?

 

5. Should I give up on the Schiit Bifrost, and wait for funding on a killer DAC (Ayre) while using my Profire as a longer term stop-gap?

 

I know this is a bunch to get through, so I appreciate any input.

 

Thanks,

 

EP

 

[goldenpiggy]

EP, I also own the 610, although it's a in my junk pile now. Hardware-wise it is fairly well designed -- just open it up and you can see sensible layout and design. Just don't hot-plug it into firewire port with the power supply attached or you can kill it. It uses the 1st gen TC Electronics JetPLL receiver chip which is quite good in jitter reduction. It's got reasonably good DAC chips (the same AKMs AD/DA chips as in RME Fireface 400 if I'm not mistaken.) M-Audio drivers have been subpar, as is their support, since Avid takeover. If you got it working reliably, good for you. I never did and gave up long time ago.

 

If you're happy with its D/A conversion quality, keep it. I thought it sounded pretty good for the price, mcuh better than my MOTU 896HD. When you want more out of the sound, keep it as a Firewire SPDIF bridge with superior jitter reduction, for hooking up to your latest and greatest DAC that may not have firewire or USB. (BTW that's the answer to your 3rd question.)

 

I never use 1/4 inch to RCA adaptors...ughh! And HOSA...good grief, that has to be the weakest link in your system. You can buy good 1/4 inch TR (mono) to RCA male cables at most music stores or online from places like MCM electronics. I just make the cables myself. Buy a good 1/4 inch 10ft guitar or instrument cables, chop it in half, and solder on good RCA plugs and there you go.

 

Mac Mini has Firewire 800 which is backwards compatible with Firewire 400 that the 610 uses. Due to the way Firewire works, you're not going to hear a difference with ultra expensive cable as long as your cabling length is reasonable (say, 12ft or less) and you're not daisy chaining. So save your money and use the adaptor you have. It's fine.

 

Just a question on your signature...are you actually using the Driverack in your home or studio playback system? I'm a sound guy and swear by the Driverack 260 when doing live gigs, but I would never think of using it in my home stereo or studio monitoring system. While it's pretty magical for what it does, you are adding unnecessary A/D and D/A conversion with it in the chain -- you can really hear the added noise with a high resolution system. It's also not a very musical sounding piece -- it wasn't meant to be. The room correction feature you mentioned is the auto EQ function. Based on my years using the 260, it is most beneficial for larger venues and PA speakers. If you feel it actually makes your Martin Logans sound better, I'd definitely like to hear your take on it.

 

Cheers,

JR

 

[easypete]

JR -

 

My system is very much in transition. The end system should be Martin Logan CLXs with Descent subs, and mostly Ayre electronics (R series). I'm only a year into this system, using many components from my home theater to get me through.

 

The CLS panels are old. I was told they were fairly new, but they weren't. They had pretty bad response below 70Hz. I knew I needed subs, so the CLSs were stored for a year until I found the Kinergetics. The subs came with a crossover, but it was not working. I was going to get it fixed, but reviews all say that it's very sub par.

 

I am using the Driverack as a stop-gap for a future crossover (Bryston?). While using the Driverack, I figured I'd use the autoEQ. Right now, it's not my weak link. Overall, I'm pretty happy with what I hear. For me, it's a distance race, not a sprint. I know where I want to be, just need patience and a lot of money.

 

I agree with not using the 1/4" / RCA converters. Right now, I'm using some Monster Cable wires that have the proper ends. Still not what I want. I think I'm going to get the Schiit, so I'll gut it out for the next 2 months.

 

So far, I'm having no issues with the Profire 610.