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DIY DC power cables


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On 5/5/2017 at 2:26 AM, JohnSwenson said:

OK here it is: cable shielding, how to make it work and how almost all cables have it wrong.

 

The first important question is, what is electrical shielding and how does it really work?

 

Lets look at the infamous "Faraday cage". For this discussion it is a metal box, with all sides well electrically connected (no gaps). Shielding means that electrical fields outside cannot be sensed inside. Conversely electrical fields inside cannot be sensed outside.

 

So how does this work? When an electric field from the outside world impinges on the box it causes the electrons in the metal to move, this rearrangement of the electrons creates an electric field inside the metal which exactly counteracts the external field, thus the field is essentially stopped at the periphery of the box.

 

The important aspect here is the part "electrons in the metal move". What are moving electrons called? Current. In order for current to flow there has to be a loop. Current will not flow unless there is a loop. In the case of the Faraday cage, the loop is the whole cage. Lets say an electric field impinges on a side of the box, this causes a current flow that goes all the way around the box back to where the field impinges on the box. If the sides are not electrically connected to each other the current cannot flow, thus the electrons cannot move, and the canceling electric field does not get setup, thus no shielding.

 

It turns out that for AC electric fields it is a little different. Some current can flow due to capacitances between conductors. The electrons can move a little bit one way, then a little bit back. If the frequency is high enough the back and forth movement, which is charging and discharging the capacitance is sufficient for shielding. For a given capacitance the lower the frequency the less effective the shielding. The electrons start moving which charges the capacitance, then stop moving when fully charged, they don't do the full movement necessary to produce the canceling field.

 

So what about shielded cables? I hope is now obvious that for shielding to be effective there needs to be a conductive path from one end of the shield to the other. If there is not such a path the only shielding that is going to happen is for high frequencies due to cpacitances involved with the shield.

 

The best way for the shielding to work properly is a separate wire connected to each end of the shield. This is sufficient for shielding from DC to very high frequencies. Note the shield does NOT have to be connected an earth ground, the "ground" of the circuit at either end, or any thing else for that matter. A cable with a shield the is not connected to anything else except itself (ie a separate wire from one end to the other of the shield) will be highly effective in shielding what is inside.

 

Where does this wire need to go? It can be either inside or outside the shield, but if it is inside it can couple to the signal wires inside, so it is usually best to have it outside the shield. Note it has to be insulated from the shield except for the ends where it connects to the shield. It should intersect as little of the external field as possible so it should NOT be tightly spiraled around the cable. Just running along side the shield is best, although a very loose spiral (say one turn per foot) is almost as good.

 

So some ramifications of this: The traditional "connect the shield to one end and let the other end float" is not good, it does not allow a loop so shielding does not happen very well. If you add the external wire connected to the shield at both ends, then you CAN connect one or both sides of the shield to the signal ground or some other ground, but you don't NEED to for effective shielding. You will find that in many cases leaving the shield completely disconnected from the rest of the circuit is the best way to go, you get the benefit of properly working shielding without any interaction of the shield with your system. You may wind wind up with static charges on the shielding so a resistance from the shield to ground may be useful in some cases in order to dissipate static charges.

 

So how come nobody does this? I don't know. My only guess is that cable shielding has been going on long before the actual mechanism for shielding was worked out, thus by the time it was understood, cable shielding was "standard" and nobody ever even thought about analyzing it based on an understanding of how shielding actually works.

 

But shouldn't the big companies know about this? It seems they don't. I have read several app notes from Belden that state that shielding is only effective at high frequencies, at audio frequencies and power supply frequencies (60Hz etc) it is totally ineffective.

 

Audio people are the only ones that seems to at least empirically know about this. Remember phono cartridges and preamps, there is a little green wire that goes from the "ground jack" on the preamp to the tonearm. Everybody assumes that this is to "ground the cartridge" but what it really does is provide a loop from one end of the interconnect shield to the other, it has nothing to do with whether it is "grounded" or not. So if you have (or had) a turntable you were actually taking advantage of this without realizing it.

 

So there you have it, shielding DOES work, but only if you provide a path from one end of the shield to the other. This is effective even if you don't connect the shield to anything else.

 

John S.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wauw--once again a huge thanks. It's the first time I understand what my turntable's grounding cable does. Would this work with Ethernet cables as well?

All best,

Jens

 

i5 Macbook Pro running Roon -> Uptone Etherregen -> custom-built Win10 PC serving as endpoint, with separate LPUs for mobo and a filtering digiboard (DIY) -> Audio Note DAC 5ish (a heavily modded 3.1X Bal) -> AN Kit One, heavily modded with silver wiring and Black Gates -> AN E-SPx Alnico on Townshend speaker bars. Vicoustic and GIK treatment.

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