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Found 16 results

  1. I'm selling a Van den Hul Optocoupler MK II toslink cable that is in the original box. Asking: $69 including Paypal Fees and shipping in CONUS Included: Original Box, manual/paperwork from Van den Hul View my seller feedback here: https://www.audiogon.com/users/ggil
  2. Hello all! I'm new in the world of RB Pi DAC's and I'm looking now to buy an Allo Boss 1.2 for my RB Pi 3 B+. But my final objective is that the Allo Boss 1.2 will not be only the DAC for the contents passed by the RB Pi, but also that the DAC could receive HD digital signals (24/192 minimum) from external sources (an external PC for example) via SPDIF Toslink and/or coaxial. So, could you recommend me any other board that can provide to the Allo Boss 1.2 the Toslink/coaxial inputs it doesn't have? The ideal would be a card that can be stacked with the Boss using, ideally, the G
  3. Hey, guys! Just sold my NAD M51 and looking for a new amazingly sounding DAC with maybe a streaming option. Would be nice also if that was capable of DSD 512 and maybe PCM 768kHz, just in case Must have XLR balanced outputs and Toslink input. The budget is around $6000 US. Can go higher if needed. My other components are: Foobar2000/HQplayer MacBook Pro (late 2017), USB digital interface: "Gustard U16", Integrated amplifier: Musical Fidelity - "Nu-Vista 600", loudspeakers: "ProAc D48R". Would be super grateful for all suggestions! Thanks!
  4. Jeez where to start here.. I believe my sound is pulsing after a bass-stroke. As in sounding good, crisp, clear, but when a bass-stroke occurs, it's kinda like the following half sec or so, looses 2-3dB! Lineup is; VOX Mac Mini Toslink Harman Kardon HK990 I would swear I have had this issue before. But before, as in 10 years ago! On completely other gear. When I try googling pulsing toslink, that is actually a way it works, not an actual problem. Am I nuts, or what's wrong?
  5. I recently purchased an LFD integrated amp for my Harbeths, so now I need a DAC. I have but a single requirement: A Toslink input. This is due to the fact that I have an excellent HDMI/Toslink switcher that reduces all my sources to one Toslink. Things I DON’T need 1. USB 2. volume control 3. DSD or MQA 4. balanced outputs My requirements are so modest, I am certain I can find a nice older DAC for a bargain price. Two used DACs I found on Audiogon that seem to meet my requirements are as follows: 1. Metrum Octave (
  6. I'm trying to get my Logitech Transport to get acquainted with my QNAP TS 419 P+ I cannot get either device to register on my Wi-Fi network. The Transport works if connected to a Cisco router via RJ/E, but that does NOT work for the QNAP. I am now attempting to connect by RJ/E to the NAS; QMusic recognizes the NAS and creates a db. BUT, I am connected by USB to Toslink (Cambridge X3) from NAS to Logitech, then by Toslink from Logitech to Arcam DAC. Silence. The VU meters on the Logitech are deflecting, and the display correctly IDs the music stream from the NAS. A Sonos and a cd player
  7. Hello everyone! This is my first time here! I'm writing from Chile, at the end of South America. I need to replace my very old receiver, it just died, and to fix it is ridiculous expensive for an old piece of audio equipment. My first idea was to buy a Behringer A500 connected to my computer via one Behringer UCA202, but later I founded the Behringer DEQ2496 that have a good DAC inside based on AKM chip plus room correction, EQ, and others functions that probably I will never use. Now my problem is how to connect my PC Window 7, 64 bits with PCIe slots and USB ports with the DE
  8. So I jumped into computer audio but I have some questions that some of you might be able to answer...? I currently have an iMac (2012) with a Peachtree DACIT. The computer is in my family room while my Audio Gear is in my living room. Running a cable from the computer to DACIT would be around 25'. I believe that's too long for USB...? So I learned that my iMac has a dual audio output. Meaning if I put in a mini toslink adapter in my 1/8" audio jack I can run an optical cable to my DAC. Would this be a good idea or bad idea? Seems to easy...? I want the best sound possible! Any advice you c
  9. Another basic question. The CA Academy article is now six years old. I've read lots of articles about being sure that the renderer has control of the USB clock and this seems to be pretty common these days. But when I read specs, the optical connection can usually handle higher bit rates. Odd since the bit rates of any music are so far below the actual transfer rate possible with USB 2.0. In any case, given the choice of a USB or optical port from my iMac, is one clearly better than the other? Just for context, consider that I could be feeding either an integrated amp with it's own DA
  10. Hello everyone! This is my first time here! I'm writing from Chile, at the end of South America. I need to replace my very old receiver, it just died, and to fix it is ridiculous expensive for an old piece of audio equipment. My first idea was to buy a Behringer A500 connected to my computer via one Behringer UCA202, but later I founded the Behringer DEQ2496 that have a good DAC inside based on AKM chip plus room correction, EQ, and others functions that probably I will never use. Now my problem is how to connect my PC Window 7, 64 bits with PCIe slots and USB ports with the DE
  11. I have some questions about digital interface limitations and am hoping that the more knowlegeable among you might correct any misunderstanding I have. I just upgraded my DAC, making the connection from my computer the weakest link in my digital audio chain. I am looking for the best solution that maximizes the capability of the new DAC while minimizing inherent down-sides of the different interfaces. My currect set up is: iTunes library on an external USB 2.0 HD -> MacMini (early 2009, 10.11.6) -> TOSLINK output -> Gefen Digital Audio Extender sender -> Cat6 cable ->
  12. Somewhat of a noob issue as I am simply trying to playback SACD's on my bluray player. I was surprised that I could only get digital audio out from a new SACD purchase via HDMI. On further research discovered this has something to do with DRM which is only supported with HDMI. But, my DAC does not have any HDMI inputs! So what do people do? I did notice I have a toslink (optical digital) out on the back of my plasma. So would one possible solution be to go HDMI out to plasma> toslink out to DAC ?? Would my DAC still be getting the full SACD signal?
  13. I am listening CD and studio quality music files from a Win 7 64bit PC. Question 1: Since the audio data being sent is binary, what are the real advantages of a high end USB cable ( ex.Kimber Kable USB B Bus ) versus a regular USB cable? Question 2: Which digital audio connection is better: USB or Optical fiber (TOSLINK)?
  14. Let's suppose I have a recently purchased DAC with a lot of different choices for the digital interfaces. Is there one that is (likely to be) much better than the others? Or is there one that is (likely to be) worse? I am asking in terms of theoretically the best/worst and also in terms of typical implementations (say with a $5k price cap). I hear a lot about noise, ground loops, jitter, etc. but it isn't clear to me if there are clear differences across brands in these effects or in SQ overall. Choices include: USB WiFi
  15. Hi, I've been away a while but I have a practical question. I need to stream toslink or possibly galvanically isolated coaxial from my desktop W7 computer, and $200 is my upper limit. Options are a)internal soundcard, b)install a firewire port and use a firewire interface with toslink out, c)usb interface (preferably with asynchronous transfer), d)wireless streamer (which could then have coax out), e)network streamer (would need toslink), f)any old usb interface, followed by a coax to toslink converter. Requirements are a)no electrical connection to the sound system, b)24/96, c)under
  16. LIFATEC premium Silflex glass TosLink cable, 0.6 meter length TosLink to Miniplug for Apple Macintosh > optical S/PDIF Made in USA, the best New $75, here $30, inc. PayPal and shipping, USA only Lifatec USA SUPRA high-speed USB 2.0A > USB 2.0B, 0.7 meter length Made in Sweden, hard to find New $46, here $30, inc. PayPal and shipping, USA only . WIREWORLD Ultraviolet 7 high-speed USB 2.0A > USB 2.0B, 0.3 meter length Good REGEN short link Newl $43, here $30, inc. PayPal and shipping, USA only
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