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About Me

Found 11 results

  1. Hi All: I am using a PI3 and Hiberry Digi+ with a old Harman Kardon Signature 2.0 PreAmp and Carver amp with a pair of NHT zeros. This was a living room setup mainly to listen classical, new age through a Roon Bridge installed on the Pi. Just bought a SVS SB-1000 to complement the Zeros. I have audioquest RCA cable laying around but thinking of buy a subwoofer cable. I am thinking of getting a Soundpath cable from SVS (SoundPath RCA Subwoofer / Audio Interconnect Cable – SVS ). I have to say, I am huge monoprice fan. Do you have any help for a Noob? Thanks, Ahmed
  2. I am going to invest in a 2.1 sound system that I will plug into my desktop. I have decided on the JBL LSR305s as the monitors but I have a choice of 2 subwoofers to choose from: Wharfedale Diamond SW150 (http://www.wharfedale.co.uk/product.php?pid=65) Roth Audio OLI KH30 8 inch Active Sub Woofer (http://www.rothaudio.co.uk/docs2/products/OLi_KH30.shtml) The Wharfedale sub has a 10 inch driver compared to the Roth Audio 8 inch. It also has a slightly lower frequency response of 35Hz to 40Hz. The Roth Audio has 200W of power compared to 150W of the Wharfedale. The Roth Audio sub is also smaller so therefore more practical as I will have to move it and it will be in a small room. Could anyone help me decide which one to go for? They are an identical price. Thanks
  3. Hey i was just wondering if you guys could let me know if i was heading in the right direction. I recently purchased the KEF x300a's and they are incredible. I just want to add a bit of deep punching bass, my music taste varies massively and for certain genres it is slightly lacking like a deep punching bassline in some house or techno. At the moment im looking to purchase a gemini ii subwoofer and hook it up with a MiniDSP. Massively into my music just struggle with what to buy and how exactly connecting a sub up to this set would work, any other way than with the miniDSP i have researched that is. Thanks in advance ? James
  4. I have an 80 Hz crossover enabled in my Sound Blaster Zx with speakers set to "Small" so measurement is done with the crossover applied. As you can see there are massive nulls and resonances in my room. The LFE channel also has a massive dip of -16 dB at 50Hz. I have a Wharfedale SPC-12 and I can only listen to my system at something like -12.0 dB before the subwoofer severely distorts. The PC is connected via analog to my receiver so there is no DSP in the receiver. Is it possible that the crossover is behaving unpredictably when receiving filtered audio from each channel which has massive cuts and boosts? Could the total boosts in each channel be clipping once they are crossed over? As far as I understand, unless Dirac does its own crossover before filtering there will always be problems. The speakers and sub have to be measured without crossover. Then based on the findings, Dirac should apply its own crossover and mix the LFE channel before applying any filtering. Applying a digital crossover at a later stage will always result in some kind of clipping or overdrive. Basically measurement should be done without crossover and filtering should be done after crossover. It can be done with advanced routing but that has problems of its own and defeats the simplicity of the Dirac playback device.
  5. I am fairly new to computer speaker setups, and planning to add the YST-SW012 to an existing 2.0 speaker system. After having searched various forums with usually mixed information about connecting this subwoofer to a pc, I am unsure about this setup. Do I just connect the sub with the supplied cable to the center/subwoofer output on my sound card, or do I need a separate receiver or a different cable? Any help is appreciated.
  6. First, the exciting announcement: I just upgraded from vintage Canton Karat 920 DC bookshelf's (bought new in 1996) to Canton CT-800's (just acquired via craigslist for $250). These are small 3-way floor standers with a 10" woofer. On to the question. I've been told in this forum that anyone who passes audio signal through a subwoofer's crossover - whether line-level OR speaker-level - and then on to their main speakers is feeding a degraded signal to their main speakers - even when using quality cables. Is there any reason one shouldn't connect their speaker cable directly to the main speakers FIRST and then on to the subwoofer? I understand the speakers and amplifier wouldn't benefit from the crossover in this configuration, but that seems a better compromise over the ghastly degradation of sound quality so many write about. If that is okay, is it also okay to do this to just one channel, or would doing so create an imbalance between the left and right main speakers???? (this is yet another reason I hate having to use a sub) Much obliged. Gary
  7. Hi Everyone, I need some help with the configuration I am trying to build. I have 2 EmotivaPro Airmotiv5s that are directly connected to my PC via the 3.5mm port. My audio is all ripped in AIFF. I want to add to components to my system: A DAC and a subwoofer. The DAC seems pretty straightforward. I was looking at the Cambridge Audio Dac Magic Plus. Any other recommendations under $1000 is appreciated. The challenge is the subwoofer. How do I add that in? I know some subs have left/right pass-thru ports but I am concerned that the sub would compromise the sound quality from the sub to the Airmotivs. Any thoughts? Mark
  8. hi i'm totaly confused in what i can do to improve my music quality. current situation: 2 b&w M1's (small) linked to marantz pm6004 my source is currently laptop (analog) and mp3(analog) , both with 3.5mm jack. i also have a sub, denon dsw 65 with integraded amp and with a line in and out (LFE), but i can't use it currently my main goal is to improve my source, (all my files are on laptop, external drive, mp3 player), secondly i would like to create a 2.1 setup. the solution must be flexibel, if i want to replace my m1's with a 685 or q300 or other bookshelf speakers. how would you handle this situation? budget is important, and i i'm not in a hurry to finish this .....situation ps. would you recommend buying a SECONDHAND hi end dac? or cd player? thank you , pls HELP
  9. I have aktimate mini+ monitors and am looking to add a sub. Im am looking to spend $400-500 but will stretch a fair bit (maybe up to a grand if the sub is phenomenal and you can convince me its worth going broke for lol) At the moment I am leaning towards a wharfedale diamond 9 SW-150 (400bucks). But am also considering the AS8 and krk 10s (500 odd each). Its a smallish room and I want it pretty much just for music. I listen to a huge variety of stuff classic rock (acdc, slade, black Sabbath) to alternative stuff (some other stuff: System of a down, queens of the stoneage, muse, florence and the machine etc etc) etc etc but I am guessing it will be most beneficial for my guilty pleasure (cough *dubstep*cough). any advice?
  10. Up for grabs is a really nice pair of Gallo TR-3D Subwoofers. $985 retail, you can grab one for $600 or BOTH for $1000! Plug and play, these are easy to set up and look great. 9/10. Original packaging included. Full price includes paypal but shipping is on the buyer. Will ship in original boxes, CONUS only. Local SF Bay Area pickup also works. Thanks for looking! More info below: TR-3d Subwoofer The pinnacle of subwoofer design and technology is here. In plain terms, the powered, 300 watt Anthony Gallo Acoustics TR-3d subwoofer is the finest subwoofer in its class, and we proudly offer it as the gold standard. It's a veritable 300 watt "cannon of power", and has an integral bass equalizer that's capable of an additional +6 dB of low bass boost. Add in our patented S2 bass loading technology and an onboard class d power amplifier, and you have a subwoofer that offers the tweaks and range that true audiophiles will love, yet still features the simplicity to "plug and play" for everyone else. So no matter what your level of listening expertise, if you want the best bottom to your sound, look no further than the TR-3D. Frequency Response 18Hz to 180Hz +/- 3db Power Handling 300 watts, 600 watts max, Class D Digital amp Driver 10" Long Throw Ceramic Anodized Aluminum Cone Dimensions 10.75" W x 12" H x 13.5" D Cone Material Ceramic Anodized Aluminum Cone Enclosure Material Hardened Steel with patented S2 bass loading Crossover See below Connections 2 Female RCA phono inputs and 2 female RCA phono outputs (pass through) 5 way gold plated speaker level binding posts Finish Black Phase 0/180 Switch Low Pass 50 to 180Hz, continuously variable with LFE by-pass swirch High Pass 100Hz fixed, 1st order high-level output Bass EQ 0, +3dB, +6dB, 30Hz center frequency Power Auto On/Off Auto/On/Off Toggle Switch Gain Dial Weight 33 lbs Woofers Cover Black Metal Grill
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