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Found 46 results

  1. Seeking speaker recommendation. Here is the situation: Cabinetry in our kitchen has two cabinets for speakers. See photo below. This is next to the ceiling,...about 7-8' off the ground. For the last 8 years, these have had a pair of B&W 705 speakers, wired to a multi-channel amp pushing about 60w. And it has sounded terrible. There are several issues which, I believe, make this an especially "hostile" environment for speakers: No fixed listening position. It is a kitchen. We are all over the place. Next to ceiling...I imagine this creates unhealthy reflections Inside a box. Ugh. It is what it is. Should this disqualify any rear-ported designs? New system: New amp will deliver 140wpc of class A/B power Rebuilt "grills" to allow much more open space I may treat the inside of the cabinetry with absorptive material (should I?) Bookshelf speakers will lay on their side, likely on dampening foam like Auralex Mopads that will reduce vibration and allow some downward tilt Now I need to choose speakers. Any suggestions...? Thanks in advance.
  2. SOLD Gallo Strada 2 speakers with Gallo stands. Mint condition, original owner around 2 years old, with original shipping boxes. Review: https://6moons.com/audioreviews/gallo14/1.html Msrp: $2,259. Sell for: $999. Buyer pays shipping and paypal fees
  3. SOLD Selling my much loved Revel Ultima Gem speakers with Revel Gem stands. These speakers were manufactured in 2003 and 2004, respectively. The speakers are in 8/9 condition, one speaker stand has a mark on the 'post' (see pic) and a few very small marks on the bases of the speaker stands. I am the second owner. I have the original shipping boxes. I purchased these around 2007. These have the optional high-gloss heather grey paint finish and optional aluminum side panels. They have adjustable front tweeters and adjustable rear-firing tweeters. These are truly world-class stand mount speakers. They throw an enormous sound stage and super precise images and layering. The rear-firing tweeter creates an amazing sense of air. They are amazingly detailed, clear and neutral. I preferred the Gems to the Wilson Duettes and the Joseph Audio Pulsars. They are built like tanks (48 pounds each speaker). The build quality is as good as it gets. These speakers represented Harmon International's all out assault on state of the art speakers. They do not disappoint and they can still go toe to toe with any other stand mount speakers. Review: https://www.stereophile.com/standloudspeakers/89/index.html Interesting tid bit, the Gems appeared in Nancy Meyers' film What Women Want starring Mel Gibson 😁 Msrp: $9,500 Sales Price: $3,700 Buyer pays shipping and Paypal fees
  4. They don't have to be the best, I'm not using them for gaming, I have my headset for that. tech news free netflix Just for things like listen to music in the house or watching YouTube videos or Netflix maybe, simple stuff like that. I'm not really sure of a budget, I never really looked into it yet, just figured I'd ask here first.
  5. Hi everyone! Has anyone had experience of using small 5.1 speakers (like Boston Acoustics Soundware XS 5.1, Cambridge Audio Minx Min 12 or a soundbar like Yamaha YSP-2200), that are no taller than 10cm / 4 inches versus a pair of stereo desktop speakers like Polk Audio S10, Ruark Audio MR1, Q Acoustics 3010, Wharfedale DS-2 or even Wharfedale Diamond 9.0, all of which aren't taller than 25cm / 10 inches? Which in your experience sound better for listening to 5.1 audio? All the desktop speakers above cost less than £330 / $430 and the 5.1 speakers cost less than £800 / $1050. I know for stereo music, the stereo speakers above would beat the 5.1 system hands down. I also understand the stereo pairing can't play all the audio of 5.1 What are people's experience and thoughts on which sound better overall for 5.1 audio? Thanks
  6. Hi All, Can Homepod create grouping of speakers to coordinate music beyond room? Someone was talking about it in devicebase.net/en/product/apple-homepod-speaker/99990090 . However,I need an additional idea on this matter.Your input is highly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  7. Hi All,I am planning on buying HomePod,I was trying to find more information about it online.I found more information in https://devicebase.net/en/product/apple-homepod-speaker/99990090 .However,I would like to know more from your personal experience. Is it better than the Google Home Mini? And is it worth it?Thank you in advance
  8. For sale is pair of Harbeth P3ESR SE speakers, Harbeth's latest version of the venerable BBC LS3/5a, though these sound much more modern and better than the classics. This matched pair is from a limited release Special Edition that includes Studio Grade Ultra-Pure OFC Cable and they are in the premium (extra cost) Rosewood finish. They are gorgeous, like pieces of furniture. I am the original owner and the speakers are in near-new condition with no scratches that I can see. Grills are immaculate. All factory packaging (ships in single box for the pair) and documentation is included. Shipping charges and PayPal fees, if any, negotiable. Reasonable offers considered. U.S. sale only. Thanks for looking. Dan
  9. I have PC which I built for both gaming and music listening purposes. For headphones, I have two pairs of the Audio Technica ATH-M50X for music and Logitech G430 for gaming. I am currently shopping for a sound card and 2.1 desktop speaker solution for my computer. For the sound card I need it to handle surround sound in gaming, do well with music listening and have proper shielding from electrical and electronic interference. I listen to film score, classical, new age, electronic, rock, and pop music. I am currently leaning toward the Creative Sound Blaster ZXR, but I am open to suggestions on other reliable internal and external sound cards designed for both music and gaming. The price range that I am looking at for the card is around $250 or less. I am currently ruling out Asus due to experiencing problems with a number of their products. For the speakers, I want a 2.1 setup that handles gaming, movies, and music and can last for years. I am looking at a price range of around $200 or less. Right now the only speakers that I am ruling out are the Logitech Z623s because I have bought two pairs over a four year period and they each only lasted two years, which I felt was a ripoff for the price tag that I paid. My music formats are Apple Lossless Audio Compression (ALAC) and iTunes Plus on Windows 10 64-bit. Thanks.
  10. I hope this is the right section to ask this. If not please move to correct section. OK my current setup is my desktop PC-->JDS O2/ODAC-->Fiio A1-->Andrew Jones Pioneers I want to replace the A1 with something a little more powerful (25-50w ch.). Currently the A1 is about 14w ch. It sounds great and no issues with it whatsoever. (BTW, apparently Fiio reused the model name A1 for a small headphone amp. The A1 I am talking about is a discontinued speaker amp) Decided to pick up a Dayton Audio DTA-120 on sale ($78) and try it out. Sounded awesome, seemed a little clearer and great separation. Problem is I sometimes listen at low volumes at my desk and I am experiencing channel imbalance. Driving me nuts. So looking for an amp with a similar foot print to these 2, and has RCA inputs and speaker terminals. I just want an amp, no integrated DAC. $200 or less. Thanks.
  11. I've loved music my whole life, but I'm a new audiophile. I recently got a decent pair of headphones, a headphone amp, and an ODAC. I'm very happy with that set up, but now I can't bear to listen to my crummy PC speakers. I think they were around $30 and they are utter garbage. So I'm looking to upgrade. I have $500 to spend on active computer speakers or passive bookshelf speakers and a receiver. I am considering the Swan M200MKIII, but a lot of people seem to think getting passive speakers and a receiver is a better way to go. Unfortunately I have no idea where to begin in the search for good passive speakers or a receiver. I listen to a wide range or rock music and like a balanced sound. I live on the third floor of an apartment with sensitive neighbors so a really bass heavy setup isn't such a good idea, although a setup where I could add a subwoofer should my living situation change wouldn't be a terrible idea. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This is all very new to me. Thanks!
  12. Hi all, Here's my current set-up: Arcam rPac (rPAC - USB DACs - Arcam), which is connected to my PC. Pair of KRK VXT6 (VXT6 Studio Monitors Speaker KRK SYSTEMS) I'm looking for the easiest way to connect the speakers directly to my DAC. As you will see, the only connection output from the rPac is standard RCA. The speakers are active, so there is obivously no need for an amplifier here. My other thing I'm not sure about is how I am going to be able to control the volume. The KRKs have small volume knobs but they're are on the back of the units and not really meant to be changed as these are studio monitors. Would the built-in volume controller on my media player and/or windows volume slider be good enough? The only solution I can think of currently is simply to connect the them by [RCA to XLR] OR [RCA to 1/4inch jack] cables. Many thanks in advance for your suggestions, Jack
  13. So... I recently bought myself a pair of Polk Audio RTi A1s for my birthday. Long story short, I have no idea how to connect them to my computer. Things I have: Schiit Audio Mangi 2 Amp 3.5mm Jack on PC ~100$ So, I think that I need a DAC that supports speaker wire and a 3.5mm input. Am I right? What else do I need? Any suggestions on quality stuff at roughly 100$?
  14. As with most audiophiles the world over, I love music. I am an engineer, pianist and classical listener predominantly, but open to all genres and music types and listen avidly to any music type either recommended or discovered. It all started for me, as these things have a wont to, with some money burning a hole in my pocket. A pocket that was not much used to having burning money in it... Countless daily hours over countless months of reading reviews, studying design methodologies and factors influencing sound reproduction, engineering principles and costs, listening sessions to train myself to be able to distinguish quality when heard and what to listen for. A clear obsession with the reproduction of sound. I started with speakers. The purchase of speakers I would suggest should be both the biggest, most personal, and most important part of designing and building a system that is perfect for you; or your wallet. Let's be clear here - the best system is the best system that you can afford. What matters is deriving the best possible sound from the core components that you can afford. That starts with you speakers. The choice of a speaker is a very personal decision and the reality is that when you go above a certain threshold, most speakers are of very fine quality and much better that the start-up audiophile will have ever had access to before. I settled on a used pair of B&W 803's. Perfect for me as they were aesthetically pleasing, sonorous (to my ears), and, most importantly, within budget. Ching - $4,000. Next was the amplifier. Here there is such an unbelievable level of choice as to be mindboggling. I took a very simple rule and applied it. I wanted to spend no more than 50% of my speaker cost on my amplifier. That gave me a budget of $2,000 and significantly limited my options. With an amplifier your main concern should be 1) will it effectively drive your speakers, 2) does it sound good with your speakers and 3) what will you use as your source. I wanted to go digital and the NAD 390DD was (and is) an amazing choice and an amazing amplifier. I got a refurbished unit, some nice transparent cabling and hooked it up to my mac mini as a source playing files from an external hard drive. It was amazing - I was in audiophile heaven. Ching - $2,000 - budget blown. One would think that should be the end of the story. A $6,000 system, some fantastic digital files at 44.1/high resolution and a newly discerning ear to appreciate it all. Those audiophiles out there will well appreciate that this is never quite the case though. As one learns more and more in this hobby, the quest for perfection is a niggling one. What is referenced above is the core - speakers and an amplifier - but the most important aspect, in my opinion, comes after. This is the portion of the journey where you work to make the absolute most of what you have. My beautiful 803's are never going to be $50,000 Wilson's or $80,000 sonus fabers. My 390DD is never going to rival the very best in available amplification. My MacMini will not stand up to a $100,000 DcS stack. But the steps taken post the acquisition of these devices will most definitely allow you to get close. Much closer than you might think possible - particularly up until you get to the speakers. I am just going to give it straight here - in my experience the source and more correctly the chain from source to amplifier has an effect similar to a jump of many $10,000 dollars on the amplifier speaker side. I have heard amazing speakers with amazing amplifiers and if the source is not of sufficient quality and, more importantly, the signal chain from the source to the amplifier, then you are wasting all that money on your amp and speakers. I have no doubt that if you're spending $120,000 on Fabers Aida's then you will have on the best at every level, but if you are operating at a less billionaire like level then the importance of the point above will be much more salient. In utilizing a mac mini for audio I was using usb out to usb in on the amplifier. More than fine. The problem with this is the quality of the power supply in the mini is dubious for audio (switching). You don't need to know all this, but suffice to say you want clean power for good results. Insert iUSB power regulator (or similar) into the chain for immediate improvement. Dramatic improvement in the case of the 390DD. Ching - $200 - we are getting cheaper and closer... Next thing to fix is the inherent problems with USB for audio generally... Now we don't have choice in terms of getting the signal out of the mini, but we do have a choice of what we feed to the amplifier. Enter a USB converter. Suffice to say I spent probably the most amount of time here in terms of research; clocking and conversion is a dark art... I tried multiple devices here in my system - each with their own positives and negatives, but settled; more than settled, fell in love with, the Yellowtec PUC2. This is not the prettiest and very far from the most expensive, but in my considered opinion, the very best; not just for the money, full stop. This device has had the single greatest impact on output quality and I now have a very nice transparent AES cable feeding my 390DD a magnificent, clean, musical digital signal. If you own a 390DD, I will tell you that the AES input is the best - this is not the case on all amplifiers, but for the 390DD the AES is your man. Ching $480 There is one final thing. One final tweak that, if you are searching for the best for your system will be the icing sugar on top. Try using a dedicated card to store your music. The USB bus on my mac mini is busy with external drives and other non audio related activities. The card slot is a clean bus and delivers a mite of extra sparkle. Ching - $50 What's the point here... Well what I want is to hopefully save a little time and heartache for someone that has a similar desire to that which I had. Implement the absolute best audio quality you possibly can on a limited budget (and in my case also with the flexibility of a media centre/TV setup for the mini). My goal was the best digital possible. If your goal is analogue quality then this direction is not for you I would suggest. Especially given the the 390DD has been very badly commented on for its phono stage... I have never tried it and never will. For digital though - it is sublime. $6,730 + a little bit lost in mis-steps along the way is the cost of my music system and I can promise you that I have heard very many relatively well implemented systems across multiple brands at 10x+ of the cost, in dedicated rooms, that don't even come close on multiple criteria - that is obviously while critically listening to the exact same recording. The point is that if you are smart about your expenditure and give the time and effort required to learn, listen, test and repeat, you can achieve amazing results on a comparatively low budget. Many reading this might consider this a nonsensical comment with expenditure as above, but that was my budget. What I am saying is that with care this quality scales. I paid $6000 for the core and $730 to take that core to its highest level. If you can only spend $1,000 on the core then the $730 will still bring that core to its highest level and certainly will be much more valuable than spending that extra $700 on a bit more speaker at the cost of improving the source-amplifier chain. What I have found with all my time is that, while you have to start at the end you will finish at the start. The speakers are the end and still the most important element in reproduction of sound; but it is the start; high quality recordings and the methodology of getting those signals to your amp and speakers which delivers the high fidelity. Bad recording or bad transmission will ruin even the best speaker amp combinations. So if you are going to buy into a high fidelity system this is where you need to focus - on the fidelity. Fidelity is detail and nuance - this is inherent at the start of the signal chain and can only get diluted from there. Once the signal hits your amplifier there is nothing you can do but hope that you remain more than satisfied with your investment in the core components. I want to thank the audiophile community and all the forums and content that exists to make this journey possible for someone starting from a zero base. I don't expect everyone or possibly anyone to agree with what I have said above, but do wish to offer my experience for someone who was where I was and thus pay it forward! Separate note - the 390DD is a direct digital amplifier blending the functions of amplification gain and digital analogue conversion in one device. If you are planning on a class A or A/B amplifier you will have the extra complexity of a DAC to consider. I wish you luck!
  15. Hi All, We are building our first home, and are wanting to have builder pre-wire for in-ceiling speakers. One set pre-wires for 2 speakers, and we are thinking of having total 4 speakers in the house. However, we are not that savvy when it comes to speakers and all the new technology, so looking for help on choosing the right location for those speakers. Right now, planning to have them in Dining room, kitchen/nook area, living room, and covered patio in the back. Wife really loved them when we toured model homes, and likes streaming music while doing chores around the house. Question is: how do we choose the right location within each area? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
  16. I am looking for small, decent speakers for my Mac for streaming music and movies. I prefer USB audio like my old 1st-gen SoundSticks. At a price under $300 the only speakers I see that offer USB audio are the Audioengine A2+ speakers. I know that if I consider other speakers with a DAC (or passive speakers with a DAC/amp) I'd be opening up a huge can of worms with a much larger available pool of choices. But if I just want a simple speaker solution with integrated USB, are there any other recommended choices at that price point? If not, I see that Presonus has a line of Ceres speakers that also include Bluetooth, in 3.5" and 4.5" woofer sizes. The 3.5" model is slightly bigger than the A2+ but has slightly higher specs (plus Bluetooth) while being half the price - does anyone know anything about this speaker?
  17. I need a new stereo setup. I'm a music lecturer and I only listen to classical music. Orchestral, piano, voice, lots of new music, some with electronics etc… My office is small, about 9' x 14'. The thin end has a window all the way along, and I usually sit facing the window at a desk. I will be using my Macbook Pro Retina with a Meridian Explorer as the main source. Sometimes I listen to LPs, but I don't have a fancy LP player and won't be buying one. Most of the music I listen to is from CD, sometimes online (soundcloud, youtube… sad but true, all necessary for work). I mostly sit at my computer, and so I need something that can sit on my desk. (I think this is really a constraint. I have thought about rearranging my room around some speakers, but I'm not sure how practical this would be given how small the room is (the rest of the walls are lined with bookcases). I can imagine speakers standing in the middle of the room might get knocked over etc… But I'm open to ideas) I really have no idea where to start looking. At home I have some Tanoy R3s and Denon amp, 755AR CD player etc.. and I like the sound (or at least I did when I was a teenager and bought it, and now I'm totally used to the sound). At the moment at work I mostly listen to music with Denon AH-D2000s a I can't help but want a bit more clarity from my speakers than I used to. The Explorer sounds a treat. I don't have endless money (hard working lecturer). But I think about 2000-3000 on some speakers and an amp might be ok. What proportion do I spend on an amp? Do I get one with phono? or use the cheap preamp I bought for my LP player (I think so)? What do I gain over spending less? Or more? Is there a good argument either way? As I often have neighbours, I need to a system that sounds ok at low volume and in the office space. Though I don't have neighbours on weekends and holidays (hard working lecturer, right?!) and over the summer when other people work from home. I'd like this to be a one-off purchase, rather than part of a continual upgrade project. I have the money now and I'd like to still think it sounds sweet in 15+ years. If I need to spend a touch more then I'd rather get it right. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
  18. David here - I'm rolling it over in my mind about getting a pr of stereo speakers (No Surround). I have a budget of less then $500.00 (New or Used). I don't want book shelf speakers, but floor standing instead. I am not into "Bass" at all and can always add a Sub-Woofer later. My room is 13' x 14'. I live in the Gadsden, Al area and believe me we have no audio stores where I can go and listen to speakers. I "Googled" the Birmingham area for audio stores and they have 8 stores - But they are all for Mobile Audio!! I have to rely on the internet specs and info from you good folks! I'm a senior and mainly listen to Classical, Jazz, Easy Listening. Remember BASS is not high on my needs list!! I have a Pioneer VSX-822k Receiver, 80 Watts per channel! Tks for any help
  19. OK, I'm a new a guy, I might ask some silly questions.. Up until just recently I always ran my home stereo speakers, (2 channel) out through my PC. Of course they were powered by my home stereo amp. The setup was such that the speaks. were wired to the amp, and the amp had a lt/rt out going into my soundcard on the computer. The soundcard was great because it was RCA inputs, and married up well to the RCA's coming from the amp. Fast forward to today.. I have a new computer. It seems that people don't use soundcards much anymore? So they tell me to run the audio through the motherboard. The MB is a ASUS P9X79. It has on the back... "Line-in" center channel, side speaker, front channel, etc. There is no "Line-out" On the front of the tower there is a mini jack for headphones, and a mini "Mic" jack. I have purchased an adaptor for the RCA outs coming from the amp, to adapt. into a single 3.5 mini jack to go to the MB. I am completely stumped on where to plug this in. I have gone with the "Line-in" and all the other options on the motherboard. No sound cometh forth. I've gone with the front of the computer, the Headphone out jack, Mic jack, etc. No dice! When I plug it into different places, a window will pop up from the MB and show where I've plugged the amp into... but still no audio. (When I touch the hot end of the output from the amp, it will make noise in the speaks, obviously they are working. But no signal is seen from disk drive, youtube videos, etc. Is there anything obvious that I'm doing wrong here? Do you need more information? The pop up window for audio via the motherboard is the most involved thing I've ever seen. There are a million options. I don't care about all the 7.1, I just want the good old left and right channel playback. Thanks in advance!
  20. Original Retail Price $5,500 Asking $1,100 The SC-III.A was introduced in 2002 as a cabinet revision of what had been the Cantata (and before that the Athena). The III.A is a three-way with forward-facing M-T-M plus a downward-firing 10” (sub) woofer. The speaker is a sealed box with stepped baffle and first-order crossovers. Dunlavy speakers are true time- and phase-aligned designs, of which there are very few on the market. You can hear the benefits of this approach immediately in imaging that is almost beyond belief. The speakers have a very natural, organic sound, which is what I prefer. Bass in my room goes down below 30Hz and, as a sealed-box design, is taut and tuneful. I have driven these speakers with everything from a 10wpc Audio Note tube amp to a slightly higher-powered PrimaLuna tube amp to very high-powered solid-state designs from PS Audio (BHK), Sanders Magtech, Hypex (DIY), Spectron and others. The Dunlavys made beautiful music with all of them, the differences being mainly in bottom-end weight and slam. I am the original and only owner of these speakers, which I purchased in 2010 as “new old stock” from several pairs discovered in the warehouse after Dunlavy had shut down due to John Dunlavy’s illness and subsequent passing. The cherry finish on these has become deeper and richer with age and looks gorgeous. Mine is a smoke-free household. I have never used the grills, so they are mint. (In the photo above, the frames for the grills are attached to cabinets, but they pop off for a cleaner look if you run them without the grills.) The individual driver surrounds are butyl rubber, so foam rot won't ever be an issue. Aside from a few minor blemishes here and there (all very minor, generally on the edges), the only item to mention is that one of the mounting screws for one midrange driver is missing. I took it out and embarked on trying to find “upgrade” replacements, which I did not find, but I ended up losing the one screw. The main cabinets sit on wood plinths, which sit directly on the floor. (I put felt pads on the bottoms to protect my wood floors.) This is how John Dunlavy felt they should be used, but some people like to put them on spikes, so I experimented. I removed the plinths and substituted a pair of Soundocity outriggers (http://www.soundocity.com/products.html), which fit perfectly and which you can see in the photo above. If you are interested, I will sell the outriggers for an additional $200. I have the original boxes for these (one per speaker plus one for both of the plinths, all in excellent condition). However, I strongly prefer not to ship. For now, at this asking price, this is for local sale only – SF Bay Area. Specs: Woofer (1) 10" (down-firing) Midrange (2) 6.5" Tweeter (1) 1" soft dome Frequency Response 27Hz - 20kHz, +/- 1.5 dB Dimensions 52"H x 11"W x 14"D Weight approximately 90 lbs each Sensitivity 90dB Impedance (Nominal/Min/Max) 4/3/6.5
  21. Hey guys! I am doing a project where I'm investigating Dynaudio and it's main competition. I am a complete newbie in this field and curious to know a few things: - which brands would you consider main competitors to Dynaudio? -Would also be great to know what sets these brands a part, what would be Dynaudios main strengths and weaknesses compared to it's main competitors? - is Dynaudio an innovative brand or are other brands using more innovative technologies? Which ones? All opinions highly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
  22. Hi all, Also forgot to mention, but my Mars 'levitating UFO' Bluetooth speakers arrived yesterday after almost a year waiting. I had originally backed the Indiegogo campaign for it last year. So I got my unit yesterday and opened it up. The whole thing looked a bit like getting a Mac Pro, but speakers instead. Have to say I was impressed with the build quality! And yes, the top 'UFO disk' they call the Craft definitely hovers as soon as you power it on!
  23. Hi, new to forum (long-time lurker ). I have a pair of Alesis M1Active 520 (usb model) speakers/entry level monitors. Bought them new ~1yr ago and like them very much for the price. A common complaint is that the volume knob (that also powers them on/off w/ "click" at turn to '0') can get loose over time and then stop working all together (to power on). Mine are working still, but do feel 'looser' than when new. I thought I might add something, a switch (maybe a foot switch?) to plug them into, and then to the wall. And leave the Vol knob "On" (past 0, maybe at 2-3?). So not to use/stress knob and lead to eventual failure. Any Thoughts? Much Thanks in advance!
  24. EDIT: -- sorry should have posted in room treatment Forum. Will repost there. I am not sure what size room I may end up with yet, but I'm intrigued about the idea of placing speakers on a diagonal, that is, with their back side facing a corner of the room, rather than one of the short walls. Decware has an article the describes this. DECWARE - Article about Setting up a Listening Room without Treatments I've seen some folks post photos of their listening rooms that are set up this way. Theoretically, you can get better imaging and better overall staging in a relatively small room. Anyone using this configuration? What is your experience. Thinking through a couple of configurations will help me figure which room might be best in my house, and what modifications may be required. (another interesting concept is using a closet as a bass trap).
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