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About Me

Found 10 results

  1. Hello, after almost a year playing with a naked Raspberry 3B+ or whatever the model I gave it up, I appreciated the high quality free radio stations available but too unstable to use on a daily basis, no complaints, for the price it is not good but great but to me too complicated, I like things being simpler at this stage. I was lucky to locally find a 2010 MacMini with a mere 4GB ram and a spinning disk, I can upgrade both on need since this old machine still didn't have soldered memory modules and also hard driver replacement is quite easy but first I have to figure if it is worth. The Mini has HighSierra as an Operating System, the library is fully FLAC and Audirvana is the player, I use the app on my mobile to remotely control it, will have to create playlists and such but till now it is highs and lows. The Mini is connected to a Beresford Caiman SEG DAC via USB, the DAC doesn't really excite me but read good reviews for the price and I am fine with it, the computer is also connected via HDMI to an old Sony LCD screen so that with a mouse and a keyboard, just in case, I can work onto it without to have to remotely control it through another computer which is what I have to do every morning. I have set a password on the Mini because without it I can't remotely access it with file sharing but at the same time I don't want login window and I want it to automatically login with the sole user of the Mac, energy saving is off so that it never goes to sleep but every next day I wake up and want to play music the app on the phone connects, the music apparently starts to play but no sound, what happens is, I guess, once the DAC is switched off (I do switch it all off at night, all besides the Mini) even tho I remotely access the Mac (which I don't want to!) and switch the audio exit back on the DAC it won't work, I have to restart the computer which is pretty boring. So my question is, how do I make so that the Mini runs headless and with no need to reboot or to access it on a regular basis, any guide I can look at or hints to make it work? Grazie a tutti e buona Pasqua Giovanni
  2. Hello to everyone, I would like to share my issue using a MacMini late 2012 (updated to last Sierra) and a HRT Music Streamer III. I have preset my output sample rate to 44.1 kHz 16 bit 2 ch in the Audio MIDI Utility. When I turn the Mac on, the led on the streamer is on Mute. When I start playing music (with iTunes) the minimum sample rate led lights up. ONLY IF I disconnect and reconnect the USB cable (even before playing music), the correct (preset) sample rate led lights up. From now on, any change I make in the the Audio MIDI output has an impact on the streamer (the associated led lights up). Even if I restarted the Mac, the behavior keeps normal. The problem occurs if I turn the Mac off, then on. I made several test on a PC, and the Streamer seems to work well. I have also tried plugging the Streamer to different USB ports. After several correspondence with HRT support center, Kevin Halverson states this should almost certainly be a corrupted OSX. Did you have any similar experience? Thanks a lot Gabriele
  3. I have been reading a lot here and learning both from the forums and about myself. I have used my 2012 Mac mini in my system before and I have decided to jump back in for a winter swim! I have a new PCIE SSD based Mac mini on order and my JS-2 is on the way. I will have one side of the JS-2 wired to my Mytek Brooklyn DAC + and the other side to the MacMini. I have several idea threads to run through. Here is a partial list: Digital music delivery process ideas: USB direct between the Mac and the DAC and with an ISO-Regen + LPS-1 and maybe more.... Ethernet - USB with my SOtM SMS-200 ultra. (several threads of setup here to test) Test with the DC grounded NetGear GS105 switch to the network. Using an LPS-1 Start with High Sierra in the default Apple configuration and work through reducing processes. I want to listen to Apple Music with this DAC. I use Apple Music for discovery and mobile listening. I use Audirvana and Roon: How does optimization in Audirvana do before we even tweet the OS. I want to figure out voice control for music. "Hey Siri" or the like..... SOtM clock testing since I already have it! Other possible / probable testing and learning Do I play with Isolation transformers on the AC side? Do I make other cabling improvements? Will I l test with my Rotel power amp to see how it compares to the Mytek Amp? ..... more .... So in summary my music will be stored on a Synology NAS outside of the stereo system so there is no SATA stuff going on in the MacMini. Attached is the basic layout of the stereo system for reference. I am building a few more pages with test outlines. Eventually I want to make an FAQ/WIKI/KB of this as finding stuff in these threads on the forums is really time consuming and I want to make this simpler. So the goals are as follows: Reduce operating complexity. (I dare. you to teach a non- audiophile how to switch inputs on a Mytek DAC +) Improve sound quality Have fun and listen more ???Simplify??? the systems design (I am not sure if changing power supplies and edit Mac processes is simple) Share my experience to help others. Stereo Overview.pdf
  4. Hi guys, Some weeks ago I order with Alex a JS-2 and MMK board - one of the most important components in my set. At the first time, I read the manual... is very well documented.. it describes ever single detail. However, I take some photos for all installation and I will share here... I will not describe which steps or what you need to do. this is just a photo album. Alex, if you want yo uese this photos, please feel free... Just like fatanstic... the package is "Apple-Standard"... very well packaged....
  5. Hi folks - I recently finished the first stage of my computer audiophile journey - building a new system from the ground up and getting everything onto a server. When I was starting down this path, forums like this we're absolutely invaluable both for deciding what to do, and even more so what not to do (either because it wasn't important to me or because knowledgeable users found some component, step, etc. wasn't useful). I will not claim that I have found the perfect solution but I know that as a relative newb, the level of detail and the plethora of different opinions in these forums can be daunting. As such, I wanted to share what I learned and ultimately where I ended up - in essence, I'm seeking to answer the question I (and many newbs) want answered: how can I maximize bang for my buck in building a high-quality digital system? Background and caveats: What is the scope of the gear I'm referring to?: I'm being holistic: source, power, speakers, and everything in between - the entire chain required to turn 1s and 0s into sound waves hitting the ears. Budget: This is obviously the determining factor. If you have a tiny budget or an unlimited budget then this won't do much for you. My budget was modest, but to the average person, still pretty large at 5k. I ended up bumping it up to 7.5k or so to meet my needs. That said, you can absolutely bring the price down depending on your choices. My conclusion is that it's really tough to build a high quality (reminder, I'm not claiming highest quality!) system, ground up for under 3k and 4k is probably more reasonable. My goals/constraints: What I learned is that the most important thing for a newb to decide early in the process is "what is important to ME?" Forums like these, are full of people with strong opinions about what is absolutely necessary - some say cables, some that MP3s technology was created by the devil and Hi Res is the second-coming, some like to have every single component separate so they can tweak and change everything, some that they can hear the difference between Intel and AMD. That's all well and good, but don't make the mistake of having other people decide what's important to you. After debating different system architectures, source files, etc. I was completely overwhelmed, and ended up sitting down and writing out a few things I wanted from a system and started over again. Here's what I decided for me (again these represent MY preferences, but I believe the underlying questions are useful to all newbs): Maximum sonic quality across a wide range of musical genres - I listen to lots of different types of music so I wasn't interested in building a system that shines only with club jams, or live recordings, or classical, or jazz. What I realized in auditioning different systems, and reading comments, was that meant becoming comfortable with compromise and accepting that other systems will always shine brighter in certain situations. That's ok because I wanted the best system I could get to cover as much ground as possible. Specifically, I wanted a system that could provide great mid-range clarity but could also give me solid low end. I want to stress how important it is for a newb to be honest about listening habits - lots of professional audiophiles and forum participants focus on styles of music that aren't of much interest to me: classical, folk, progressive jazz etc. All great stuff, but I'm far more likely to listen to R&B garage rock, hip-hop, EDM, metal etc. Practically what that means is people lauding components that fit with their musical tastes but that don't match with mine (or yours). If you want to rock, then admit it and build that system - don't spend money to build the most amazing system to recreate live choral pieces ... I should also mention that, in my experience, this is primarily a matter of speakers and possibly amplification (though with reasonable quality amplification at average volumes I struggled to see much difference) - other components don't seem to care what style of music you're putting through them. As simple a system architecture as possible - If I could get the quality I want out of a single box solution, I'd do it. I don't think we're anywhere near that, but it was a guiding principle of mine. That meant looking for at least one (more on this below) component that could play multiple roles. Not too "tweaky" - I'm not an engineer. I'm not a computer wiz. Generally I want things to be simple. Other people in this forum derive pleasure from tweaking and playing around with every detail of a system, and god bless 'em ... that's just not me. Ease of use - I wanted to be able to easily control playback from a handheld device, and preferably multiple handheld devices. Future proofing - Ultimately this is a fool's errand because technology moves too quickly and too far to truly future proof anything, but I do think there are purchases that can at least help in this regard (a little more on this in the DAC/Amp section below). Maybe more importantly for me, it meant that I only wanted to spend time and money on the stuff I thought would have the longest shelf-life - digital sources generally, and computers in particular, are likely to change quickest, so I had no interest in building a 10 year solution to a 5 year problem. Where I ended up and why: Ultimately I built what to my ear is a really, really, really good system. It certainly beats the pants off of many systems I've heard at many multiples of the cost I paid and (obviously, because I'm writing this) I would recommend it as the "best" system available for someone who's got the same preferences I do. Here is an overview of what I chose, and without going into excruciating detail, why: Digital files: as the, not-so-proud owner, of thousands of Redbook CDs and tens of thousands of mp3s I had to decide what the hell to do with my music. Ultimately I decided that I would: rip all of my CDs Redbook to ALAC files, replace mp3s for my favorite music, live with the lower quality recordings of the majority of mp3s, and then purchase some Hi Res files as they became available. My goal in this process is specific: I want this database to serve as the foundation of my system until I die. That meant sucking it up and ripping CDs (and ultimately, rebuying hundreds of CDs) over the course of months just so I wouldn't have to do it again. It also means that I have started on the process of digitizing my hard-to-find vinyl using a Rega Fono Mini A2D (more on that later if people are interested). Digital source: MacMini , with no tweaks. I recognize that I'm in very dangerous territory here given the site I'm on, but I simply didn't think it was worth it to to build a CAPS system or spend a bunch of time and money on tweaks. I listened to a variety of server products and even a couple of friends' tweaked systems and honestly I couldn't tell a lick of difference. Plus my choice of DAC was designed to help in this regard. I think that for most relative newbs that this is one of the biggest sticking points, and I went a year not doing anything because I was so daunted by options and suggestions. Furthermore, to the future-proofing issue above, this is the area that's likely to change the most and the quickest, so you can put a whole bunch of time and money into something you know you're going to have to replace. Whereas, great speakers for example, are likely to stay great for a long time. My advice, stay simple, and save your money by getting a MacMini and being done with it ... but you can read all the reasons that's a terrible idea in a hundred other posts around CA :-) BTW: I output this source via TOSLINK and USB, but mostly listen via TOSLINK because my DAC can't play 192 via USB. Digital player software: I use iTunes for the majority of my daily listening it's user friendly and familiar. BUT I also purchased Audirvana . I did this for two reasons: 1) iTunes won't play Hi Res files and I wanted to see if they are worth it, and 2) Audirvana has a System Optimization function that basically shuts everything else down that could influence sound quality (I only use this for critical listening). A quick aside on Hi Res: I'm not totally sold, but I think it's awesome this is where music is headed. With storage cheap, I simply see no reason I wouldn't just listen to studio masters if they are available. Additionally, Hi Res files seem to get more care in the re-mastering process, so even if all the debates about human hearing capacity are right, these files will still sound better because they're better masters. DAC and Amp: I have owned some great systems and heard even better ones: and I conclude that DACs matter ... BUT I think this is a really exciting time because it's now possible to get really great stuff without breaking the bank. There are several companies making truly spectacular stereo receivers with on-board DACs that kick the stuffing out of standalone units that cost many multiples (Peachtree comes to mind). Ultimately I chose the NAD C390DD, the little brother to the M-Series. I thought that for 2k or so it was by far the best thing out there. I won't do a full review, but things I liked: simple one box design, a proprietary chip that re-clocks, Hi Res playback, modular hardware design, upgradable software, and DSD architecture that means the signal stays digital to the speakers (i.e. no true D to A conversion). From what I saw with other components, I felt like I would have had to pay at least 50% more to get the same thing out of separate boxes. This area is moving pretty quickly with some great stuff coming on the market, so I won't defend the NAD to the death, but I will say that I think for a newb, you're way better off going with one of the new single-box designs than buying expensive separates. Speakers: Now we're back in familiar territory, at least for me. Despite all the discussion, speakers define the system faaaar more than any other component. It's also the place you can break the bank and, as noted above, where personal preference plays the biggest role. For my budget, this was the ultimate 'bang for the buck' decision, and this was the place I decided to bust my budget. I went with Golden Ear Triton 1s. Simply put, for my ears, they sound better than any other speaker I have heard for less than 10k. For half that price, I believe they are the single best component deal available. You can read the glowing reviews all over the internet ... believe them. The folded ribbon is amazing; the mid-range is super lush; the bass is the crispest I've ever heard at anything approaching the price. The smaller speakers in the Triton line are also fantastic, so if you wanted to save some bucks, you can while still getting amazing quality. Of this entire post, this is the only component that I will absolutely go to the mat for. These things are absolutely spectacular for the price especially because I could get rid of my sub and simplify the system even more. Other bits and bobs and opinions: Bliss - If you're trying to organize a big, ugly, messy library you absolutely must get this, particularly if you care about cover art. This saved me hundreds of hours and is super cheap for the benefit. Rowmote - I use the Rowmote app on my phone to point and click and use basic programs on my Mac. It's simple and easy. Backup - I use time machine with a 2TB Western Digital Passport to back everything up. With the hundreds of hours I have in this project, and the fact that I'm doing this for posterity, regular backup is an ABSOLUTE MUST. Fo' real. Cables and interconnects - I just don't get it. Buy decent quality stuff and spend your money elsewhere. Maybe cables matter in a cost-is-no-object system but for anyone starting out, it's a giant neon red herring ... Power sources/grounding etc. - Frankly I have no real opinions on whether any of this stuff matters at all BUT I must admit that I use a grounded Panamax power conditioner. I don't have it for the sonic qualities, but rather because 1) it has a whole bunch of grounded outlets to cut down on wire clutter, 2) it makes me feel better about my components getting fried during surges and storms, and 3) most importantly, I basically got it for free. My bet is that a solid surge protector is just as good ... In conclusion: I've listened to a bunch of 10, 20, 50k systems and I truly believe that my little rig (Mac Mini>NAD C390DD>Golden Ear Triton 1's) will stand up to them. I've no doubt that you can 1) spend more and get more and 2) that people here will have all sorts of differing opinions on the path to sonic bliss, but I can confidently say that you will be hard pressed to do better in this range. So if you're lurking here trying to find ideas of which way to go, or if you're scraping the money together to upgrade to the next rung on the ladder, I think this is a pretty fool-proof way to go. Even if you go in a different direction, hopefully some of the questions and considerations I brought up will be helpful to you. Happy listening! Best, Eric
  6. Hi folks - I recently finished the first stage of my computer audiophile journey - building a new system from the ground up and getting everything onto a server. When I was starting down this path, forums like this we're absolutely invaluable both for deciding what to do, and even more so what not to do (either because it wasn't important to me or because knowledgeable users found some component, step, etc. wasn't useful). I will not claim that I have found the perfect solution but I know that as a relative newb, the level of detail and the plethora of different opinions in these forums can be daunting. As such, I wanted to share what I learned and ultimately where I ended up - in essence, I'm seeking to answer the question I (and many newbs) want answered: how can I maximize bang for my buck in building a high-quality digital system? Background and caveats: What is the scope of the gear I'm referring to?: I'm being holistic: source, power, speakers, and everything in between - the entire chain required to turn 1s and 0s into sound waves hitting the ears. Budget: This is obviously the determining factor. If you have a tiny budget or an unlimited budget then this won't do much for you. My budget was modest, but to the average person, still pretty large at 5k. I ended up bumping it up to 7.5k or so to meet my needs. That said, you can absolutely bring the price down depending on your choices. My conclusion is that it's really tough to build a high quality (reminder, I'm not claiming highest quality!) system, ground up for under 3k and 4k is probably more reasonable. My goals/constraints: What I learned is that the most important thing for a newb to decide early in the process is "what is important to ME?" Forums like these, are full of people with strong opinions about what is absolutely necessary - some say cables, some that MP3s technology was created by the devil and Hi Res is the second-coming, some like to have every single component separate so they can tweak and change everything, some that they can hear the difference between Intel and AMD. That's all well and good, but don't make the mistake of having other people decide what's important to you. After debating different system architectures, source files, etc. I was completely overwhelmed, and ended up sitting down and writing out a few things I wanted from a system and started over again. Here's what I decided for me (again these represent MY preferences, but I believe the underlying questions are useful to all newbs): Maximum sonic quality across a wide range of musical genres - I listen to lots of different types of music so I wasn't interested in building a system that shines only with club jams, or live recordings, or classical, or jazz. What I realized in auditioning different systems, and reading comments, was that meant becoming comfortable with compromise and accepting that other systems will always shine brighter in certain situations. That's ok because I wanted the best system I could get to cover as much ground as possible. Specifically, I wanted a system that could provide great mid-range clarity but could also give me solid low end. I want to stress how important it is for a newb to be honest about listening habits - lots of professional audiophiles and forum participants focus on styles of music that aren't of much interest to me: classical, folk, progressive jazz etc. All great stuff, but I'm far more likely to listen to R&B garage rock, hip-hop, EDM, metal etc. Practically what that means is people lauding components that fit with their musical tastes but that don't match with mine (or yours). If you want to rock, then admit it and build that system - don't spend money to build the most amazing system to recreate live choral pieces ... I should also mention that, in my experience, this is primarily a matter of speakers and possibly amplification (though with reasonable quality amplification at average volumes I struggled to see much difference) - other components don't seem to care what style of music you're putting through them. As simple a system architecture as possible - If I could get the quality I want out of a single box solution, I'd do it. I don't think we're anywhere near that, but it was a guiding principle of mine. That meant looking for at least one (more on this below) component that could play multiple roles. Not too "tweaky" - I'm not an engineer. I'm not a computer wiz. Generally I want things to be simple. Other people in this forum derive pleasure from tweaking and playing around with every detail of a system, and god bless 'em ... that's just not me. Ease of use - I wanted to be able to easily control playback from a handheld device, and preferably multiple handheld devices. Future proofing - Ultimately this is a fool's errand because technology moves too quickly and too far to truly future proof anything, but I do think there are purchases that can at least help in this regard (a little more on this in the DAC/Amp section below). Maybe more importantly for me, it meant that I only wanted to spend time and money on the stuff I thought would have the longest shelf-life - digital sources generally, and computers in particular, are likely to change quickest, so I had no interest in building a 10 year solution to a 5 year problem. Where I ended up and why: Ultimately I built what to my ear is a really, really, really good system. It certainly beats the pants off of many systems I've heard at many multiples of the cost I paid and (obviously, because I'm writing this) I would recommend it as the "best" system available for someone who's got the same preferences I do. Here is an overview of what I chose, and without going into excruciating detail, why: Digital files: as the, not-so-proud owner, of thousands of Redbook CDs and tens of thousands of mp3s I had to decide what the hell to do with my music. Ultimately I decided that I would: rip all of my CDs Redbook to ALAC files, replace mp3s for my favorite music, live with the lower quality recordings of the majority of mp3s, and then purchase some Hi Res files as they became available. My goal in this process is specific: I want this database to serve as the foundation of my system until I die. That meant sucking it up and ripping CDs (and ultimately, rebuying hundreds of CDs) over the course of months just so I wouldn't have to do it again. It also means that I have started on the process of digitizing my hard-to-find vinyl using a Rega Fono Mini A2D (more on that later if people are interested). Digital source: MacMini , with no tweaks. I recognize that I'm in very dangerous territory here given the site I'm on, but I simply didn't think it was worth it to to build a CAPS system or spend a bunch of time and money on tweaks. I listened to a variety of server products and even a couple of friends' tweaked systems and honestly I couldn't tell a lick of difference. Plus my choice of DAC was designed to help in this regard. I think that for most relative newbs that this is one of the biggest sticking points, and I went a year not doing anything because I was so daunted by options and suggestions. Furthermore, to the future-proofing issue above, this is the area that's likely to change the most and the quickest, so you can put a whole bunch of time and money into something you know you're going to have to replace. Whereas, great speakers for example, are likely to stay great for a long time. My advice, stay simple, and save your money by getting a MacMini and being done with it ... but you can read all the reasons that's a terrible idea in a hundred other posts around CA :-) BTW: I output this source via TOSLINK and USB, but mostly listen via TOSLINK because my DAC can't play 192 via USB. Digital player software: I use iTunes for the majority of my daily listening it's user friendly and familiar. BUT I also purchased Audirvana . I did this for two reasons: 1) iTunes won't play Hi Res files and I wanted to see if they are worth it, and 2) Audirvana has a System Optimization function that basically shuts everything else down that could influence sound quality (I only use this for critical listening). A quick aside on Hi Res: I'm not totally sold, but I think it's awesome this is where music is headed. With storage cheap, I simply see no reason I wouldn't just listen to studio masters if they are available. Additionally, Hi Res files seem to get more care in the re-mastering process, so even if all the debates about human hearing capacity are right, these files will still sound better because they're better masters. DAC and Amp: I have owned some great systems and heard even better ones: and I conclude that DACs matter ... BUT I think this is a really exciting time because it's now possible to get really great stuff without breaking the bank. There are several companies making truly spectacular stereo receivers with on-board DACs that kick the stuffing out of standalone units that cost many multiples (Peachtree comes to mind). Ultimately I chose the NAD C390DD, the little brother to the M-Series. I thought that for 2k or so it was by far the best thing out there. I won't do a full review, but things I liked: simple one box design, a proprietary chip that re-clocks, Hi Res playback, modular hardware design, upgradable software, and DSD architecture that means the signal stays digital to the speakers (i.e. no true D to A conversion). From what I saw with other components, I felt like I would have had to pay at least 50% more to get the same thing out of separate boxes. This area is moving pretty quickly with some great stuff coming on the market, so I won't defend the NAD to the death, but I will say that I think for a newb, you're way better off going with one of the new single-box designs than buying expensive separates. Speakers: Now we're back in familiar territory, at least for me. Despite all the discussion, speakers define the system faaaar more than any other component. It's also the place you can break the bank and, as noted above, where personal preference plays the biggest role. For my budget, this was the ultimate 'bang for the buck' decision, and this was the place I decided to bust my budget. I went with Golden Ear Triton 1s. Simply put, for my ears, they sound better than any other speaker I have heard for less than 10k. For half that price, I believe they are the single best component deal available. You can read the glowing reviews all over the internet ... believe them. The folded ribbon is amazing; the mid-range is super lush; the bass is the crispest I've ever heard at anything approaching the price. The smaller speakers in the Triton line are also fantastic, so if you wanted to save some bucks, you can while still getting amazing quality. Of this entire post, this is the only component that I will absolutely go to the mat for. These things are absolutely spectacular for the price especially because I could get rid of my sub and simplify the system even more. Other bits and bobs and opinions: Bliss - If you're trying to organize a big, ugly, messy library you absolutely must get this, particularly if you care about cover art. This saved me hundreds of hours and is super cheap for the benefit. Rowmote - I use the Rowmote app on my phone to point and click and use basic programs on my Mac. It's simple and easy. Backup - I use time machine with a 2TB Western Digital Passport to back everything up. With the hundreds of hours I have in this project, and the fact that I'm doing this for posterity, regular backup is an ABSOLUTE MUST. Fo' real. Cables and interconnects - I just don't get it. Buy decent quality stuff and spend your money elsewhere. Maybe cables matter in a cost-is-no-object system but for anyone starting out, it's a giant neon red herring ... Power sources/grounding etc. - Frankly I have no real opinions on whether any of this stuff matters at all BUT I must admit that I use a grounded Panamax power conditioner. I don't have it for the sonic qualities, but rather because 1) it has a whole bunch of grounded outlets to cut down on wire clutter, 2) it makes me feel better about my components getting fried during surges and storms, and 3) most importantly, I basically got it for free. My bet is that a solid surge protector is just as good ... In conclusion: I've listened to a bunch of 10, 20, 50k systems and I truly believe that my little rig (Mac Mini>NAD C390DD>Golden Ear Triton 1's) will stand up to them. I've no doubt that you can 1) spend more and get more and 2) that people here will have all sorts of differing opinions on the path to sonic bliss, but I can confidently say that you will be hard pressed to do better in this range. So if you're lurking here trying to find ideas of which way to go, or if you're scraping the money together to upgrade to the next rung on the ladder, I think this is a pretty fool-proof way to go. Even if you go in a different direction, hopefully some of the questions and considerations I brought up will be helpful to you. Happy listening! Best, Eric
  7. Hello, I'm in the process of optimising my MacMini to serve as my sole audio source to the rest of my system. I've been reading here two contradictory approaches: 1. Run as few apps as possible. If possible only your player (A+ in my case). Everything interferes with the SQ. vs 2. Use something like Splashtop to control the MacMini remotely and get rid of display, mouse and keyboard. Since Splashtop (or whatever) has to transfer everything happening in the MacMini screen to the remote client, I'd say it must do quite a lot of screen scrapping, even when you're not interacting with it. Has anyone found that a headless MacMini (running the inevitable screen scrapping server) sounds worse than a MacMini with display and bluetooth mouse and keyboard? Cheers, Nuno
  8. This icon is displaying on a MacMini screen. Can it be eliminated? Seems to be coming from the 'Sound' settings in System Preferences. Presumably it is indicating that an external DAC is in use. Can it be set to not display on the screen?
  9. Hello, I am currently controlling my Mac Mini using the standard screen sharing. But if no display adapter is connected to it, the refresh rate is very slow. I've read many others suffer from this. I read that there is a way to tweak a VGA adapter using a simple resistor and this way have the Mac Mini think it has a display connected to it. To all the headless mac mini people out there: Is this the way everyone is doing it? Or is there a simpler way? Thanks, Nuno
  10. I have recently been working on my audio system to improve sound quality and to reduce the physical size needs of the system. I also wanted to have a Mac as the control computer. To that end I have an UpTone Audio JS-2 powering my Mytek DAC+ and a new 2014 Mac mini. I thought I would post a few pictures and some notes about my install. Thanks to @Superdad for the great products and support! The Mac mini is a 2014 model with 16GB of RAM and a Core I7 processor and 512GB of PCieSSD from Apple. If you have taken an older mini apart there are some subtle differences that are covered in the help from UpTone Audio. I took a bunch of pictures that should help others along with my own visual memory! To start with the 2104 model has a different base that you have to "pop" off instead of twist off: After you remove the bottom and take off the internal cover with the WiFi antenna the fragile antenna cable has to come off : Next you have to remove the fan. The little connector pops up from the board and there are three screws holding the fan down: Next you have to remove the IR and the PCIE connectors: (That PCIE thing looks scary so be careful): Now you have to remove the one screw holding the mother board and tray into the computer. You also need to disconnect the power supply connector from the motherboard. I forgot to get a picture of that but you can see it next to the PCIE connector above. Note that the first time you try to slide the mother board out it is HARD to move. You cannot take it off until the mother board is partly out of the Mac: Now it is time to get the power supply out. There is a single screw holding the power supply to the case. You can see it in the picture below. I did not get a picture of the little catch holding the connector to the case!! Follow the notes and the fixit docs. Also do not lose the rubber boot for the power supply AC connector you will need it if you ever reverse this process: NOTE: I forgot to put the washer and the screw back into the case to hold the frame down so maybe do that NOW!: Now it is time to get the new power supply interface board into the system. You need to hook up the power supply connector and the interface cable to the new fan controller: Check the tape on the bottom of the PS board and slip it carefully into the motherboard mounting frame: Following the interactions put the washer and the nut on the DC jack. I did not put the optional nut on the coax jack: WHEW we are getting close. Plug the power supply cable into the mother board and we are ready to CAREFULLY slide things back together: Since the Website will not let me upload any more files I will continue this with a second post...... -RJF
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