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About Me

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  1. Hi everybody, In my PMs, I've received questions about how my Volumio audio streaming journey ended. And, yes, it's over. Thank God! Here, you'll find my history with Volumio https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/67747-what-shall-i-do-after-my-horrible-experience-with-musical-fidelity-mx-stream Since I wrote that post, I've entirely abandoned Volumio and all Volumio-related products – and actually all dedicated streamers. And I couldn't be happier about my choice! What a stressful experience it has been, spending all my evenings and weekends for multiple weeks trying to get Volumio to play music. Instead of feeding my audio system from a dedicated audio streamer, I've chosen to feed it through a cable from my previous laptop. This Windows laptop is now set to always have the screen turned off and to never turn off the CPU, even when the lid is closed. It's placed on top of a tall cupboard where I used to have my audio streamer. The lid is always closed, the power is always on, and the cables to my audio system are always plugged in. From my current laptop, I can control this hidden laptop through a remote desktop app built for IT support professionals to take control of a customer's PC. Everything that could have been shown on the screen of my hidden and cabled laptop is now displayed in a window on the screen of my current laptop. The end result is perfect. I can do everything as if my current laptop were cabled to my sound system. I have SO many more possibilities when I use Windows 11 Pro than when I use Volumio. The Spotify app works perfectly on Windows, and for my own audio library, I'm happily back to using J.River Media Center. It is head and shoulders above every other player I've tried. J.River Media Center has hundreds of settings for audio output and an endless number of tweakable visual interfaces. (I use a skin with orange and brown colors (hello 1970s!), and I have my player set to show tons of data for each track.) On J.River Media Center, I can give every music track its own star rating and genre (a genre created by me, if I want to). I can edit the title of every single track and add all sorts of images and general info to the track. I can, in seconds, search through it all and ask J.River Media Center to list my search results in any order I want. Let's say I want to create a playlist of tracks from my library. I want this playlist to be a mix of: Bossa Nova tracks that I've rated three to five stars, exclusively from non-Bossa Nova albums. Jazz tracks released between 1964 and 1972 that I've rated five stars. Every downtempo track that I bought in October 2021. Three newer albums that were a gift from my girlfriend. On J.River, I could create such a playlist in less than a minute. Screenshot from the J.River interface: On Volumio, I should be grateful if I could get it just to play some tracks that other people have labeled 'Bossa Nova.' After using J.River for over a decade, trying out Volumio felt like going from Microsoft Office 365 to a buggy Notepad app. I also play Spotify, Soundcloud, and YouTube on my system. All this can be done flawlessly and within seconds. People say that while J.River is best for playing your own music library, Roon is best for playing streaming services (especially if you're playing music in multiple rooms.) I live in a small apartment and am happy with the Spotify app for my streaming, so I never got around to Roon. The remote desktop app that I use every day is TeamViewer. This app is free for personal use, and it works great. (After a few weeks of use, they send you an email saying that they've discovered that you use the app professionally, and that you have to change to their very expensive subscription. I wrote back with an honest account of what I use TeamViewer for, and I've been able to use it for free ever since.) If I want to watch a video on my PC with the audio coming from my main sound system, I open the remote desktop app Parsec. This is a remote desktop app developed for gamers. This means the video transfers perfectly and with no time lag. In that way, it's better than Team Viewer, which is for IT professionals. The only reason I don't use Parsec for my everyday music playing is that it uses a ton of GPU on my main laptop. So this is the end of my little audio fairy tale. I gave dedicated streamers a shot. I spent A LOT of time trying to make it work for me. (Admittedly, I never tried systems that weren't Volumio-based.) My fairy tale has a happy ending: Windows 11 + J.River Media Center + an additional laptop + a remote desktop app. (My audio system is still a Berkeley Audio Alpha USB feeding the awesome Genelec 8361A active studio monitors with the GLM Manager EQ. It sounds amazing. 😍)
  2. Help me design a new system? (Disclaimers: This is about a “desktop” system, by which I mean a system I listen to while sitting at my desk, usually staring at a computer screen. I understand the inherent limitations. Let's skip the question about whether or not this is “audiophile” if that bothers anyone!) My Challenge: This is an emergency. I've relocated offices and have spent last few weeks in an empty space, alone, with no music. It is lonely and depressing. Background: I unboxed remnants on a previous system and patched it together…. Desktop PC, USB Out > ELAC DDP-2 > Genelec 6010A (powered speakers) + Genelec 5040A Immediate Problems: The ELAC DDP-2 struggles to lock onto the USB signal. It worked on day, then didn't. I can’t get Bluetooth to pair and find no documentation about how to do it online. In a former system, I had persistent issues with it locking onto Roon and requiring a power cycle anytime I wanted to switch inputs. I am in contact with ELAC, but I really don’t think this unit is for me. (I’ll take this opportunity to say that my pair of ELAC Navis powered speakers are some of the favorites I’ve ever owned. I’ve also been very happy with a pair of Adante AS-61). My Genelec 6010A’s and 5040 are old and have a finnicky RCA jack. I've loved these little powered monitors in previous offices. Building a New System: The only thing that is lifting my spirits is the idea of building a new system! My new career is related/adjacent to the music business and I am in a position to benefit from a much more capable system. I want to optimize sound quality. Obviously. Sources: Desktop PC (12th Gen i9-12900K 3.19GHz w/ 64GB RAM running Windows 10 Pro). I have a huge, hires digital collection, but have honestly done much more streaming these past few years. New situation will enable me to re-discover my local collection and I am interested in learning how to make it sounds as good as possible. Endemic computer sounds (alerts, etc.) Audio from the web Streaming services (Tidal, Qobuz, iTunes) JRiver Turntable (Technics SL-1200 > Parasound JC 3 Jr.) It's fine. CD (Oppo BDP-105D) Speakers/Amp: Two mains will live on my desk; perhaps on short stands to elevate above my reflective desk surface. Sub beneath my desk. This is near-field listening at 36". I'd like to do another 2.1 system and lean toward active, but I am open to other options. Looking at Genelec 8030C(2) + 7050C (balanced inputs) Wilson Tunetots are another option that's been floated (if I went that route, I may pair them with my Luxman L-590AXmkII 30W class-A integrated.) Pre-Amp:TBD DAC:TBD Setup: I plan for all of this to live in a short, studio equipment rack that sits next to my desk. Room: I am finally in a situation where I can really treat my office correctly. There will be plenty of absorption and diffusion. Questions: Scenario: sitting at your desk, listening to source other than your PC (e.g. - CD or turntable), but I still what to hear computer System Sounds (e.g. - alerts, beeps, boops), web videos, Zoom calls? What is the best way to handle? I know the preamp can't mix 2 sources (e.g. - turntable + PC), so it depends in routing these computer sounds to a secondary speaker? Is there a way to avoid having to do that manually,...continuously? For instance, can I configure PC to always route all System Sounds and Zoom audio to a computer speaker connected directly to the PC audio-out,...but route all sounds from JRiver, TIDAL app, iTunes, etc to the outboard DAC via USB? A high-quality, "dumb" DAC? My hope is to find a great DAC, separate or integrated into a pre-amp, which requires zero attention. I do not want to think about the settingsor filters on an ongoing basis. What I really do not want to do is power cycle it and futz with the inputs everyday when I sit down at my computer. (Maybe they are all like that and my experience with the DDP-2 sort of soured me?) DAC/Pre & Other Recommendations? My dream is to walk in, power up my PC, flip on a pre-amp, and go. I will use vinyl/CD weekly, but not daily. It feels like the big questions here are around the DAC and Preamp,...but I welcome any input. Thanks in advance....
  3. Hi everyone,I am in the process of completing my audio chain setup. I've recently purchased a pair of Genelec 8040B studio monitors a few months ago and recently decided to upgrade my basic audio interface to a well regarded DAC. I've purchased the denafrips ARES DAC which is on the way and I'm in the amidst of researching how I can match all components including purchasing new cables.Questions at the bottom of the post.Due to the fact that the ARES has no built in pre-amp or attenuator I am in the hunt for most likely a passive Preamp with balanced Input/output placed immediately after the DAC. However given the technical specifications below particularly on impedance matching and the idea that the ARES outputs a relatively high output impendence, I am also open on the possibility of adding an active solid state pre-amp. Finally, from the research I've done, it may be that a passive preamp with a buffer integrated or added right before it may be the component I would need to convert a higher impedance signal and output a lower impedance signal. This is because I may have some impedance mismatching involved however I would like some feedback on that.The reason why I am slightly concerned is the general rule from what I've read across the web states that the input impedance of the power amplifier (in this case the built in amplifier in the studio monitors) should be roughly 10 times the output impedance of the source to ensure no roll-off in high frequencies or loss of dynamics. In the case of my active studio monitors, "the audio input is via a 10 kOhm balanced XLR connector", so I'm assuming that is of course the input impedance required to be matched right before the amplifier section.Here is my proposed chain in simplified terms:Razer Blade Laptop >> USB cable >> ARES DAC >> Solid State Buffer? >> Passive Pre-amp (balanced Input/Output) >> Genelec Active Studio MonitorsFrom https://www.genelec.com/answers-library#qid-926"I have no preamp outputs on my equipment. Can I connect my monitors to the speaker outputs of my power amplifier?"It seems the circuitry to the Genelec's amplifier is quite non-trivial as compared to a individual amplifier. In the answer, they advise to never connect a power amplifier output to the monitor as the input stage would be damaged, however it seems a typical passive pre-amp with an attenuator would be fine.Finally here are the specifications I am working with to ensure proper matching:ARES DAC Specs:Analog Output: XLR at 4.4Vrms +-10% (Peak voltage calculated to be 6.22 volts)Output Impedance of 1250 OhmsGenelec 8040B Spec:Crossover Section:10 kOhm input impedanceInput level for maximum short term output of 100 cB SPL @ 1 M: Adjustable +6 to -6 dBuMains voltage:? 100,120, 220, or 230 V according to region - not exactly sure what this is.According to this paper: http://www.decware.com/paper55.htmIn order to select an ideal preamp I must know1. The output voltage of the source (DAC) which is 4.4Vrms2. The input sensitivity of my amplifier - I am not sure what this is number is.From basic electronics, it seems like my DAC has adequate line stage voltage (should be at least 2V), and need to find he input sensitivity of the Genelecs expressed in volt, the Tortuga website mentions most amps have sufficient input sensitivity, so it maybe I don't need to amplify the signal twice.What Tortuga does mention is regards to problems with passive pre-amp is this: https://www.tortugaaudio.com/what-is-a-passive-preamplifier/"Using a passive preamp between a high impendence source (ARES-1250 Ohms) and a low impedance source (Genelec - 10,000 Ohms) may overwhelm the ability of the source to drive audio signal without negative effects (dynamics and punch)."Lastly, they mention high capacitance of cables (in my case all XLR) is highly detrimental and can add considerable impedance to the audio signal so as to act as a low pass filter, rolling off higher frequencies which I don't want either. A high capacitance cable is of the order of 50 pF/ft while a low one is of 20 pF/ft.Questions I have are1. Given, the parameters, what kind of attenuating section should I invest in, an active pre-amp or a passive pre-amp? Do the input and output impedances matter, and if they do, what ranges on input and output impedances do you recommend for the pre-amp.2. How short do I need the upstream XLR cables to be, how short should the downstream cables be (running between the pre-amp and the speakers).3. What are some good XLR cables with capacitance as low as 20 pF/ft you can suggest?4. What are some good passive pre-amps if I need that type?5. Do I need to invest in a buffer to ensure proper matching, what does the buffer look like and where can I purchase one?6. Is the setup workable in the end without compromising my listening experience?The post is a little overboard with content, however I would like to be thorough for myself as well as others if they come across this. It would preferable in the end to not introduce any colorization (like tube pre-amps or buffers) and to keep it simple so as to pretend the original musical signal from the DAC is unaltered.Any technical input or subjective experience for a suggestion of components would be most helpful. Thanks.
  4. Hello, I would like a discussion for my setup if possible. I bought a set of Genelec 8040B's on sale last November off of Amazon. They have been great to listening to for the purpose of "vibing" off to and enjoying music for listening to and not for the purpose of mixing or mastering. So far I have been borrowing my friend's Focusrite 2i4i audio interface, and with the latest driver for Windows 10 I have not spotted any cutting off or crackling which I am pleased of thus far. These monitors are really satisfying and have a lot of detail to show. I use 25' XLR to XLR cable with the addition of 2 XLR to TRS connectors to plug into the Focusrite audio interface. Having to return the interface to my friend, am I better off to repurchase this product? Or is there a substantially more worth it setup for my Genelec's? This is of course assuming I have a good room to start with. I'm talking about an upgrade to revealing audible detail and first hand comparisons that would make something more of a jem to listen to compared to the Focusrite 2i4i. I'm not using music to listen to equipment, but rather equipment to listen to music. Any discussion would be helpful, especially from first hand experience of working with Genelec's. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E6T50LY/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01E6T50LY&pd_rd_r=17a26602-4355-11e8-b4af-bb8759a2f7d7&pd_rd_w=SgdFF&pd_rd_wg=95DNU&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=Z5RB9RANYAGHJ1P0R55Y&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=07871b8e-d32a-4963-b98f-ba712077f7f5&pf_rd_i=desktop https://www.amazon.ca/Genelec-Bi-Amplified-Monitor-System-Woofer/dp/B00K2TP4TQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1524089363&sr=1-1&keywords=genelec+8040 Thanks, Reggy
  5. New GLM 1.50 for OSX and Windows GLM is finally optimised for Maverick and should have better stability. Rather looks like it self, has a few improvements and is still dependent on XQuartz on OSX :-/ Download GLM 1.50 and releasenotes Download latest XQuartz Please post experiences, good as well as bad.
  6. Hi there, I'm getting a flashing red light on my gennys when I connect the AES/EBU ports between my Bryston BUC-1 and my 8240a speakers. Genelec says the steady flashing red light is a sign of bad audio. Bryston says they are "researching" the problem. Anyone encountered this type of red light error before and have some suggestions? I'm thinking of returning the BUC-1. Thanks!
  7. Looking for practical experience with computer based Auro and/ or Dolby Atmos surround (more than 7.1 channels). Currently running AES3 into Genelec SAM based 5.1 surround system, see specs below. Looking for the most reasonably priced and easily operated solution while maintaining sound quality. NOT interested in disk spinners and hardware based surround processors unless absolutely necessary. I do like Thunderbolt for the speed and flexibility Questions / Considerations a) AES3 output options - another AFI-1, Lynx AES16 Thunderbolt Expansion Chassis or? Aware of the usual pro sound cards from Apogee, Lynx, DAD, Metric Halo etc. 12 channel minimum b) How do I get the Mac to address more than 7.1 channels. c) Sound files - What software will play more than 7.1 channels. d) Video files - What software will play more than 7.1 channels with the movie. e) Sound files - What software will extract more than 7.1 channels from a Bluray pure audio? f) Video files - What software will extract more than 7.1 channels with the movie from a Bluray? g) Dolby Atmos - Any software players that can decode this? Current system: 3 x 8260a fronts 2 x 8350a rear 1 x 7271 Sub 1 x Weiss AFI-1 8-channel firewire to AES3 Software players stereo: iTunes with PureMusic Software players stereo: Decibel, Audirvana Software players video: VLC + Macgo Blu-ray player Extraction software: MKV & DVD-AE Extraction Hardware: OWC external Bluray drive Music sources: 2L, Aix MacBook Pro -> Thunderbolt -> Promise Pegasus2 12TB -> Thunderbolt -> Belkin Thunderbolt Express Dock -> Firewire -> Weiss AFI-1 -> 3 x AES3 single wire Thanks in advance for any and all hints and ideas.
  8. I can't believe the amount of pages on this site on the Auralic Aries and its software and continual updates. I do like to read about computer audio, but this seems insurmountable. My questions are basic: Will I be able to play all audio from my laptop wirelessly through this streamer? That is, can I play system sounds, J.River Media Center, internet videos and iTunes without audio lagging behind video? Will it be as simple as now when a USB connection lets my Benchmark DAC1 PRE play anything without any fuzz? Will I need major changes and/or additional investments to make the Auralic Aries work? The details of my system: I have a Windows 7 laptop connected to a Benchmark DAC1 PRE via USB. The reason I intend to change this reliable and simple setup is that I plan to go digital all the way to my loudspeakers. Soon, my new Genelec 8351A digital studio monitors will arrive. They accept analogue input, but analogue signals are converted to digital inside the speaker in order to make use of digital filtering and an elaborate digital room correction system. It seems “anti-audiophile” to let my signal be converted back and forth two times between analogue and digital. Genelec 8351As only accept digital input in the form of AES/EBU, which my Benchmark DAC can’t provide. (I don’t play esoteric hi-def files, I do like to have a volume control outside my PC so as not to accidentally blast my system – and ear drums – if there is a computer mishap. I’d love to get rid of that USB connection and go wireless, I don’t have an iPad, and my phone is Android.) Auralic Aries seems to be the way to go in my situation. But am I missing something in the 100s of pages on this product? Thank you, in advance
  9. Excellent news! Genelec just announced the start of the GLM 2.0 Trade-in Program starting June 30th 2015 and continuing till end of 2015. You get to trade in your old hardware for new at very reasonable price. Mac OSX version of the new GLM 2.0 software is released as well. Announcement and discussions at the Genelec Community Forum: Genelec GLM 2.0 Trade-in Program Announcement: GLM 2.0 Trade-in Program by Ilkka Rissanen on 29 Jun 2015, 15:29 Since the launch of GLM 2.0 in autumn 2014 (Q4), many of our enthusiastic users have been waiting for the Mac OS X version of the product. A while ago we had a very fruitful on-line beta campaign during which we received invaluable feedback from the testers on the robustness and user-friendliness of the software. We are now very delighted to inform you that we are expanding the GLM 2.0 User Kit compatibility to Mac environments in the coming days. The official launch will take place in the Genelec web site and our social media on the 30th of June 2015. The GLM 2.0 software provides the following improvements: • Simple, intuitive, feature-rich monitor system configuration and calibration user interface. • Group Definitions now include Input type – either analogue or digital. • Separate Group calibration files • Excellent in-room calibration results • Wired and wireless volume control options • Real-time SPL display BACKWARD-FORWARD COMPATIBILITY AND PURCHASE OPTIONS In concert with the GLM 2.0 release Genelec is offering a unique GLM 2.0 Trade-in Program for those customers who are currently running earlier GLM 1.0 to 1.5 software versions. These users are invited to return their complete GLM 1.0 to 1.5 User Kit, consisting of the Network Interface Device (types 8200-416 and 8200-416B) and measurement microphone (type 8200A) to their local authorized Genelec distributor. In exchange, they can purchase a completely new GLM 2.0 User Kit at a very reasonable discounted price. Also, please note that we are working hard to finalize the support for the GLM.SE software (both Mac and PC) which will be added to GLM 2.0 during Q3 2015. This means that all current GLM.SE User Kit owners can then also take part in the Trade-in Program detailed below. 1. For current GLM 2.0 User Kit owners • The Mac OS X and PC Windows compatible versions of the software can be downloaded from the Genelec web site without further requirements. 2. Purchase of complete GLM 2.0 User Kit • Order Code: 8300-601 • Recommended Retail Price: 400 €/unit excl. VAT 3. GLM 2.0 User Kit – “Trade-in #1” • Order Code: 8300-602 • Recommended Retail Price: 170 €/unit excl. VAT • For all the current GLM 1.x User Kit owners who have made their purchase before 31st of May 2014 4. GLM 2.0 User Kit – “Trade-in #2” • Order Code: 8300-603 • Recommended Retail Price: 70 €/unit excl. VAT • For all the current GLM 1.x User Kit owners, who have made their purchase after the 31st of May 2014 REQUIREMENTS FOR TRADE-IN PRICING • The duration of the GLM Trade-in program will be 6 months, starting from 30th of June 2015 and ending on the 31st of December 2015. • Each kit returned to distributor shall include the complete GLM 1.0 to 1.5 User Kit, consisting of the Network Interface Device (types 8200-416 and 8200-416B) and measurement microphone (type 8200A). • Original purchase date of the GLM 1.0 to 1.5 User Kit needs to be authenticated by appropriate documentation (receipt, invoice etc.) AVAILABILITY All different options of GLM 2.0 User Kits and software downloads are available immediately after the launch date, and can be ordered from your local distributor with the above mentioned order codes. Where to Buy | Genelec.com GENELEC Ilkka Rissanen R&D Engineer, Acoustics
  10. Just offered at the Genelec Community: Genelec Community Forum • View topic - Pair of Genelec 8260A's with matching stands You will need to register, but it's the best information resource about Genelecs I'm posting it here for your convenience, because it's a great offer, the first discounted 8260's I've ever seen and I have all the 8260's I need.
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