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  1. Have Katana with 5v volts to Katana, 5v to microcontroller, 5v to RPI. J30 on katana is open, J26 1&2&3 all open. Using brown black wire to Katana taking care to note that Positive is connected to center pin and check with voltmeter on green connector polarity is correct. Worked fine last night 6-7 hours after going to three PSU from recommended setting RPI /MC two PSU method. Today had trouble with card after updating Netdata from dietpi version to newer one, wouldn't boot anymore. Edit repowered entire device several times in quick succession. So reflashed another card with Dietpi and updated to 6.21.1. I have also tried another card with ropieee updated and no difference (I selected right sound card and time zone and restarted) Noted that on Microcontroller power led was solid green and the optional or status LED is fast blinking green. So powered off device walked away for 15 minutes (takes awhile for LEDS to go out. Then powered DAC, waited 30 secs, powered micro controller waited 30 seconds for green light to stop flashing and it didn't. So powered RPI red light solid (never blinks) and console output appears on LCD, see all services load, option light still flashing... Login as root run dietpi-config ensure Katana sound card is selected, try just-boom and select ALSA and unable to configure. Like DAC isn't detected. When I shut off device there are some sounds made until power is drained. So have fluke voltmeter my LPS is 2 x 5.10v with no load, a iFi iPower 5v power RPI its 5.08v no load. Have a Allo Digione Signature in another part of house bring it to main system test all three power sources with two at a time and they run it no problem... Tried returning Jumper to J26 2&3 and powering back with RPI and MC separately option led still blinking fast green. EDIT Option light seems to slow blink 3-4 times when first powering, goes dark then settles in to fast blink. Now I have to note that the connector to DAC has a very sharp bend to wire see first jpg, the brown and black are almost pinched between connector and board above. Socket is bending forward from force. So didn't power up, I replaced four 11mm stand off's included with Katana, with four 12mm see last jpg, so a stand off that is a 1 mm longer taking some of pressure off of brown black wire and it's connector. This leaves the GPIO 1mm ajar but sounded fine last night for 6-7 hours. I might add the sound last night was 20-30% better with three power supplies and really worth the expense. EDIT In Allo Katana Acrylic Case this work around does leave the 6 adjustments for the OPAMP board near very top of holes, No issue for me unless they release a procedure for making an adjustment, trust what was done while testing was sufficient. The RPI is a 3B and last but not least I tried that stand alone and using dietpi to select HDMI audio sounds fine without Katana. Any other suggestions? Already missing the sound of Katana as I type this listening to DigiOne 😞 EDIT Last but not least I disassembled Katana and plugged green connector that leads to brown black cable took voltage reading off white end with two different power supplies. Good to within .01 of a volt input to output so doesn't seem to be problem there. Was going to post a question as to whether this sharp bend with default stand-offs was normal and if I could get a new part if not. Instead I am getting concerned a device less then a month old is defective...was hoping to spend day relaxing listening to good music instead ahhh DIY. EDIT On reassembly went back to 11mm stand off's and using paper washers this gives about .5mm more space for white power connector to brown black wire and still leaves the opamp adjustment clear inside the small small holes in case.
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