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Audio System

About Me

Found 36 results

  1. Shanepj

    Fidelizer 8.0

    I cannot see a new thread for Fidelizer 8.0, so I thought I’d start one to let others know what it’s like They have done an awesome job on Fidelizer 8.0. There is certainly a big improvement from my system. It’s sharper, cleaner and seems to have more dynamics The stop start and decay seems far more apparent than earlier versions too. I know Keetakawee has been working hard to add the new features and in my system certainly benefits from the latest version I have selected Audiophile and Purist from the menu options on the launch page, it also tells you what program it’s going to launch now which is a nice touch. The advanced section has some new features too which I have also selected the third options on each drop down menu as well and keeping all the check box options ticked The results are a brilliant and worth the small price for the upgrade if you already own the previous version. If you’ve never installed Fidelizer on your PC, then this program will transform your PC from a basic music player to one that has rhythm and soul together with that little something that cannot be quantified. It’s adds an extra dimension like the very best interconnect deliver to high end hi-fi systems Well done Keetakawee windowsX
  2. #1 HIGH-END AUDIOPHILE MUSIC (🔉) SERVER "Concept" BUILD. I present you with three concepts for an awesome music server /player/windows core environment. *Boot drive for either windows 10 Pro 64 bit or Windows Sever. *I have this concept build in mind mostly for a RoonLabs core player and storage. Hardware - Case: Silverstone Premium Aluminum CS01 SFX Mini-ITX chassis Motherboard + CPU - Gigabyte J4105N H RAM - G. SKILL RipJaws DDR4 F4-2400C16S-8GRS 8GB low voltage Storage - Boot drive - Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2 SSD 250GB - https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/memory-storage/solid-state-drives/ssd-970-evo-plus-nvme-m-2-250gb-mz-v7s250b-am/ Storage drives - Storage drives - 2x Seagate IronWolf Pro 16TB - https://www.seagate.com/gb/en/internal-hard-drives/hdd/ironwolf/ or, 2x Samsung 860 QVO SATA 2.5" SSD 4TB USB card - Sotm TX - USBexp https://www.quietpc.com/sotm-tx-usbexp PSU - SilverStoneTechnology SST-NJ450-SXL (add Pachanko ATX cables) or go DC with Nikola https://fidelizer-audio.com/nikola-linear-power-supply/, build your own or, get Paul Hynes. External CD / DVD - Asus BW-16D1X-U Pro Software - #windows10pro or #windowsserver 2016 Audiophile Optimizer - https://www.highend-audiopc.com/ Fidelizer Pro - https://fidelizer-audio.com/ Music player - #roonlabs =recommended or #audirvana + your #highresolutionaudio #dbpoweramp ripped music. (24/32 bit - 192000khz - to max - wave, aiff, alac or flac - dsf, dsd256! ) DAC streamer - RECOMMENDED (I was actually inspired to built these concepts with this DAC streamer in mind) - Auralic VEGA G2 https://us.auralic.com/products/vega-g2 Cables Digital cables - Synergistic Research USB and ethernet (or, Pachanko Studio or, Shunyata Sigma or, Audioquest etc. ) - https://www.synergisticresearch.com/cables/galileo-sx/galileo-sx-digital/Galileo-sx-usb/Power conditioner - Plixir Power Elite - https://www.plixirpower.com/products/elite-bac-3000vAcousti AcoustiFeet Soft Anti-Vibration Feet ACF3007-20B Power conditioner - Panamax M5400-PM 11-Outlet Home Theater Power Conditioner Or something pro Furman? ... #musicserver #audiophile #highend #hifi #audio #sound #pc #hardware #pcbuilds #dacstreamer #concept #auralicvegag2 #gigabyte #gskill #silverstone #samsung #audiophileoptimizer #fidelizerpro
  3. As you’re aware that there’ll be upgraded version of Fidelizer in upcoming release. However, it doesn’t decrease the quality of works I put into original Fidelizer one bit. Version 6.0 comes with big changelog fixing various issues found thorough the year. It also have some changes and improvements to be more stable and reliable. If you enjoy good sound from Fidelizer and want more for the better, consider Fidelizer upgrade program to advance your computer audio journey to the next step. Changes in version 6.0 -Added Fidelizer upgrade program for buying advanced version of Fidelizer -Changed ‘Professional’ optimization level name to ‘Workstation (General Purpose)’ -Changed default optimization level to ‘Workstation (General Purpose)’ for stable default configuration -Changed some core optimizations to supported values according to Microsoft documents -Fixed multi-core optimizations not working properly for audio playback part -Fixed Fidelized audiophile player playback stability and compatibility -Fixed JRemote and few others apps not working in Windows 8.1 using Extremist optimization level -Fixed some Network Streaming optimizations that worked on unchecked one instead -Fixed uPNP not working using Extremist optimization level with keeping network services -Fixed some errors in parsing system configuration -Revised core optimizations improving compatibility with all optimization levels and network streaming Info and Download: Fidelizer 6.0
  4. Like many others, my network has grown up over time. Starting with Dial-up on to DSL modems hooked to a single computer or a small wired network and many different networking methods that sort of worked. Today my network is on Comcast cable using my modem with three Netgear Orbi devices on wired backhaul. There is a 24 Port TP link switch in the basement network shelf and an eight-Port switch in the family room for all the TV gear, and a temporary eight-port switch in the office. There is a point-to-point wireless network link to my in-law's house to provide them with internet access. On an average day, there are 55 devices on my network. The wired part of the network is solid with no issues, well none that I usually see. The Orbi gear works great, and now that their wired backhaul is in place I have the same WiFi configuration between the two houses. All is well until tomorrow. If the nice FedEx folks do not freeze my TLS audio switch will arrive. I do not think my network is ready for it. I do not know where I will place it. Near the Server? Near the "best" endpoint? Time will tell if my ears can hear the difference. But; Wait! There is more. As soon as I can get my hands on the UpTone Audio EtherRegen, I will want to test that. I now have a dilemma. It is time to "tear down that wall" and redesign the network systems. I have evolving ideas in my head. Design #1 Tear it all down and build up with Ubiquiti UniFi. Design #2 Keep the core Netgear Orbi Mesh system and leverage that. Design #3 Isolate the audio system network and leave the rest alone. I always like to start a project like this with some requirements. These are pretty high level to allow the most flexibility. Provide Internet Access for two related families. Implement seamless WiFi so that devices can roam between the two homes. Ensure that multiple concurrent audio and video streaming services work well. Provide for "isolation" for the Audiophile network. The network is flat between the two homes. Should we change that somehow? VLAN? Should we eliminate the wireless backhaul between houses and replace it with fiber? (less than 100ft run) Support PC gaming on one computer Decide about VLAN support and isolation of some devices for security. (IOT, Amazon Echo, others) Develop a support document so others can manage the network. (Unifi would help this a lot) Add optical networking for in the design now or for future planning Audio Subsystem The audio system that I want to isolate consists of three or four sub-systems as follows. 1. LR sit down music system: NUC/AL to YGGY/AYRE 2. Office desk system: UltraRendu to LYR3 Multibit 3. Server backend: Roon on a Sonic Transporter (10TB internal storage) 4. Possible need for NAS on this nework depending upon the server. NOTE: The iPad, etc. controlling Roon will not be isolated. I will want to stream to other devices on network outside of the isolated group. I will be tinkering over the next little bit. 1. TLS Switch configurations 2. Wireless on the NUC/AL 3. Fiber to the NUC/AL ( will need an FMC) The next phase may involve the following a. EtherRegen b. OpticalRendu The network re-design may be next. The server portion of the audio system comes after that. I am very open to other thoughts on my intentions! Bob
  5. I just finished my DIY audiostreamer. The base is an AsRock motherboard with onboard processor (Q1900-ITX), wide PicoPSU, 3 linear power supplies (PSU) for the mobo, the ssd and the PPA USB V2 Card (Paul Pang). I made linear PSU’s based on the sigma 11 DY project by AMB laboratories (USA). Currently, I have installed Daphile. More info and photo's on: https://audiostreamerdiyproject.wordpress.com/
  6. Okay, the past week I've been messing around with soundboards and virtual audio cables... The set up I am using right now is VB Audio cable (creates a virtual audio output and input). I'm using EXP Soundboard. My goal is to play sounds from any piece of software through my mic, WHILE also being able to use that mic. I also do not want any other sound from my computer to be heard outside of the software I'm trying to mix through my mic. Right now I'm able to use VB Audio cable to listen to my speakers/headset, and to play my mic and speakers/headset through the VB cable output. It works pretty well, I can use my soundboard in games on steam and on programs like mumble / teamspeak.. but the issue is they can hear everything on my speakers. I also am forced to listen to my mic through my speakers so I can hear myself while I talk. I know this has to be possible somehow, there has to be some software out there that can splice an audio source into the mic output WITHOUT having to share everything being played on my speakers/headset AND where I don't have to listen to my mic over my speakers/headset. It's the same with virtual audio cable, I imagine, since that just pretty much does what VB audio cable does... just a bit better, and you can have more lines in/out. I'm using USB headset and am not interested in buying any hardware. I assume that this can all be done with software, and if it hasn't been created yet I would be surprised. I am not interested in stereo mix, I assume that would just play everything going through my speakers also. TL : DR - How can I mix sounds from a specific software source (a soundboard program, windows media player, internet browser etc) into my mic output while also using my mic to talk and not being forced to listen to my mic through my speakers to achieve this? (with out buying any hardware)
  7. Hello! I want to liven up my headphones a bit and use an external audio card instead of my Asus Z97-P on board audio. I currently use the Sennheiser HD451 headphones mainly for gaming and music. My budget is around 60$-80$ but I can go up to 100$ if it's worth the price. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
  8. First, I wish everyone a Happy New Year. Not sure if this has been covered here before but just came a cross this article on audio blind testing with a link to the original archives with lots of samples and information. https://headfonics.com/2018/01/seven-keystones-accurate-audio-blind-testing/
  9. Hi, I'm looking for an inexpensive solution to 'bridge' or tunnel analog audio over an in-home IP connection. The audio originates from the line-out of one device, to the line-in of my outdoor speakers/amp setup. It can be transported over TCP or UDP is fine - basically, transport can be any packets supported by consumer switches/WiFi AP's. For the scenario, think: being able to follow the action of a sports broadcast when I go from home-theater room, to outside my house, where my outdoor speakers are. I always want the outdoor speakers to be a 'slave' to the indoor 'master' - and not control them independently. I'm not aware of any 'bridge' device pairs that will tunnel audio over IP from a 'transmitter' to a 'receiver.' Devices like this exist for Bluetooth... but, I need to span a large distance, and figure I should be able to leverage the my wired/WiFi home network to achieve this, and not worry about audio quality, or bluetooth profiles, etc. Bridge pairs like this also exist for extending HDMI - but these are typically not IP; they just use a Cat5/6 cable for transport. Also - the intent is to not break the bank - I'm hoping for decent audio quality (does a reasonable job with uncompressed FLACs of CD audio) for at or less than $200. Thoughts? Does such a device exist? I have a spare laptop - I'm wondering if a reasonable solution would be to set the laptop up to stream the audio coming into a mic port, over the home network to an Airplay receiver (i.e. the $50-ish Airport Express variety). I'm not versed in AirPlay, but an AirPort Express seems like a pretty reliable and well-tested piece of gear for this.
  10. My apologies if this has already been discussed, but I couldn't find a relevant solution. I'm running Windows 10 and Raspbian Wheezy on a Pi Model B in a network setup. I can get sound output from both devices through the PC speakers. Normally, my PC speakers are connected to the PC. The Pi output is to my monitor speakers via the HDMI cable (since my PC speakers have only one input). If I want to listen to the Pi audio through the PC speakers, I have to switch the speaker audio output cable from the PC to the PI audio output jack, which means I can only listen to the PC output through the monitor speakers. Will a simple one-to-two audio cable splitter box allow me to eliminate the monitor speakers and use the PC speakers for both outputs? Thanks for any help provided. Steve
  11. Hey, I just got a new pre powered sub to go with my Dell Xps 8300 and its Speakers, but the sub only makes noise when testing it in the audio manager. So for a while ive had the Dell Ay410 speakers, which worked great. Then I decided I wanted to upgrade, starting with a sub, and working towards a powerful 7.1 system for my pc, so i bouth the Polk audio psw10, and hooked it up to my computer. My sound card is the Sound blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio, which has jacks on the back for : l/r (My dell Ay410s) sl/sr C/sub (My Polk Audio PSW10) R/Rl So i plugged in both my devices and went to the configure option, bringing up My speaker set up, from which i selected 5.1, and pressed test, and it all worked fine, except the rear speakers which i dont have yet, so i went in and turned off the rear speakers, and pressed test again. My sub made no noise, but the Dells did. I then turned on the rear channels again, and the sub made sound when it was supposed to. So how do i make it work in games, and in itunes/spotify? My hardware: Dell ay410 Polk Audio PSw10 Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio (Not sure which exact one, but the outside looks identical to the ports on this one) Rca male to 3.5mm male (connecting sub to pc) No idea what motherboard im on So anyone got any helpful ideas?
  12. iEMatch What the $^ heck is it? We thank you all for your patience and for entering the competition. But besides DUke40, none of the answers were close to being correct - and Duke 40 already won over at Head-Fi. Nevertheless, we thoroughly enjoyed running the competition. Thank you all for entering. The iEMatch 1) What is this new product? Where is it used? iEMatch - it is inserted between the Source and the Headphones/IEMs. 2) What is the first button for – the one on the main barrel (on the left)? Getting rid of the HISS and excessive LOUDness. From mismatched source amplification and headphones. 3) What is the second button for – the one on the 3.5mm connector (on the right)? Selection of Single-Ended (TRS) or Balanced (TRRS). This is a connector proposed by iFi audio to make life simpler with SE or Balanced operation on the go. (More on this later). Why did we develop the iEMatch? The following series of technical notes outlines why we have brought this product to market. We hope you enjoy reading them. Too LOUD, too much HISS? (Part 1) Headphone/IEM mismatched Nearly every High-End Headphones/In-Ear-Monitors(IEM) user has encountered one of the following scenarios. When the headphones/IEMs are connected to the: inflight entertainment system smartphone A/V Amp, HiFi System or dedicated headphone amplifier the volume is at the lowest setting but it is still TOO LOUD and between songs there is a LOT of HISS. This is a mismatch between the Headphones or In-Ear-Monitors and your audio source. Now one can of course sell the new Headphones or IEMs and buy some that are a better match, except many modern Headphones and IEMs are designed with a very large (around 10 times/20dB) mismatch built-in. Instead, one can simply add the iEMatch® in line with your IEM’s or Headphones and adjust for the best match with your source. How bad a mismatch do I have? Background Let us take some numbers for sound levels. [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=colspan: 2] Noise/Sound levels[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Jet takeoff (50m)[/TD] [TD] 140dB[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Thunderclap[/TD] [TD] 130dB (Threshold of pain)[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Auto horn (1m)[/TD] [TD] 120dB[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Chainsaw (1m)[/TD] [TD] 110dB[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Loud Rock Concert[/TD] [TD] 105dB[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] # sustained exposure >95dB may result in permanent hearing loss Due to the risk of hearing damage it is not advisable to exceed 95dB average SPL and around 115dB peak sound levels. Mismatch If we use an iPhone set to maximum (appx. 0.8…1V) and a common HiFi system or in-flight entertainment system (appx 8V) and play music with peaks at the digital maximum, how does a small sample of high-end Headphones and IEMs fare (2)? * at Ultra sensitivity setting [TABLE=width: 113] [TR] [TD] Mismatch[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Acceptable[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] Good Match[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Red (>116dB) is ‘WAY TOO LOUD,’ which means you have a jet taking off or a thunderclap right beside your ears, which is the majority of the headphones sampled fall into. Amber (113 - 116dB) is borderline. Green (<= 112dB) is fine. The loudest headphone (actually an IEM) is a whopping 30dB or eight times as loud as a standard airline headphone. No wonder it will blow one’s head off even at the lowest volume setting on in-flight entertainment. And with a good headphone amplifier or HiFi system it will produce an unbelievable 155dB, never mind irreversible hearing damage, at those SPL’s tissue in the human ear begins to die off!! (yes, hearing is permanently destroyed). In addition to irreversible hearing damage, having mismatched headphones/iEMs mean that the annoying background noise (hiss) is significantly amplified and affects the enjoyment of music. Solution Most headphones can be matched into the ‘green’ range for comfortable listening using iEMatch® with one of the two settings or at least be brought much closer.
  13. Hello everyone! I have been trying to piece together a setup to output to two HQ headphones simultaneously on my PC and have been struggling to find the correct solution. Basically i want to be able to be playing a game, enjoying great audio while being able to offer a friend the same audio experience. I do a lot of co-op working as well where we would be listening to music while working, and it would be nice to be enjoying the same song at a HQ level. Not to mention Co-Op Oculus gaming The headsets i have had my sights on are these: http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Performance-Surround-Gaming-Headset/dp/B008O515CK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404149189&sr=8-1&keywords=Sennheiser+363d I do not have a great soundcard as of yet so i'm imagining i would need one, unless there is an all in one mixer solution i would need to go with. A couple products people have mentioned to me are: http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2 Amazon.com: ASTRO Gaming MixAmp Pro Kit: Electronics And then having some sort of inline powered headphone splitter, however i have NO idea if this is a good setup or not, or even how to piece it together. As you can tell by my wording, i am very confused! Any help would be greatly appreciated and i apologize for my sporadic writing in advance!
  14. Hello, I have been using usbridge for almost a year with my Auralic Polaris (usb-dac) and Squeezelite. I control my system with iPeng. Dietpi v6.6 was installed in the headless version. After the update to 6.8, there was an issue. Usbridge has no sound output. I reinstalled Dietpi with allo gui (version 6.6). Sound was back. After an update to 6.8 again no sound output. Does anyone know this behavior? What could be the reason? Thank you
  15. I have a large audio CD collection. I am planning to re-rip my CD collection to FLAC. I want to keep my audio playback quality as free as possible from issues such as clicks and pops due to scratched CD surfaces. I am looking for a stable and reliable CD ripping software (either free or paid) that will allow me to copy my CDs to FLAC and offer ripping settings to handle potential audio issues due to factors such as scratched CDs. Depending on the software that you recommend, could you also tell me which rip setting is best on that software to minimize audio issues from CD scratches? I previously used Media Monkey for my ripping but I have had issues with the software constantly resetting my rip settings to default and it is becoming annoying. Thanks in advance.
  16. Not sure if anyone has posted this already, but it looks like Acoustic Sounds just listed a bunch of their Blu-Ray Audio discs that they will be selling. A lot of stuff we've already seen before on SACD but you can count me in for Beck's Sea Change & Queen's Bohemiam Rhapsody in 5.1 Surround, that will be pretty sweet! Here is the link: Vinyl Records, SACDs, DVD Audio, Audiophile Equipment | Acoustic Sounds
  17. Wondering if anyone here knows the reason behind this. Is it he that the hardware (mainboard, dac chip, other) is missing the ability to pass through the digital, is it Windows Phone 8 OS that doesn't have th functionality (strangely, as Windows can do it), or is it just an app that is required to implement it (couldn't be that simple, could it)? I am happy with the build quality of my Lumia 920 and happy with how WP8 is progressing (I'm Windows all around - work, home, HTPC, Surface tablet, etc.), but the inability to simply pass the digital to the microUSB so I can use an external DAC is just unacceptable. Anyone? Thanks!
  18. Hey everyone, I recently bought a used CD that plays fine, except one track, that "skips" for a few seconds when I play the CD in my car. I tried to import the CD into iTunes to see if it still had the same problem, but I noticed that the track that skipped in my car plays totally fine when imported. Why is this? Is it because of the CD or my car's player? Thanks.
  19. Hi can i know what software do you use to edit your audio? i love steinberg wavelab but it's very exansive so i have subscribtion of adobe audition cc 2017 thanks
  20. After some technical issues with another player, Another user said have a look at RaspBerry Pi, I got one, installed RuneAudio, and external soundcard, not only does it work without writing one single line of code , but it out perform the Pioneer in all possible ways :-) at only 1/10 the price and still is it 10 times as good and cool and stable. It supports Any audio format and resolution I got access to, even also all my HIDEF files. No buggy apps to install, just visit a homepage, all pads and phones and pc's can visit the same webpage even at the same time all can control, and even more cool, there is also volume !! and what have you !! when one user adjust on his pad, all others react live to the knob beeing turned, jaw dropping cool. There is also internet radio, sportyfy, airplay, network and all the usb drives you can imagine to connect, it even find pictures of the CD and display for me, better sound too and not one single crash. PS: there exist several audio media player images / systems for the raspberry series of hardware platforms, you can even use many other hardware cards if you want. Check out : Moode Audio, Volumio, RuneAudio So far I only tried RuneAudio, I hear they are a little bit different in look and feel, but they all just transport the digital file directly to the spund card of your choise without any kind of calculations or modifications. I never owned or used a raspberry before, I also never used or played with linux computers, but I was able to get this up and running in a few days, the internet told and showed me all I could possible need to know.
  21. Hey guys! I am doing a project where I'm investigating Dynaudio and it's main competition. I am a complete newbie in this field and curious to know a few things: - which brands would you consider main competitors to Dynaudio? -Would also be great to know what sets these brands a part, what would be Dynaudios main strengths and weaknesses compared to it's main competitors? - is Dynaudio an innovative brand or are other brands using more innovative technologies? Which ones? All opinions highly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
  22. Having been an audiophile for well over 25 years and an amateur astronomer for 40 years, I'm very curious as to how many others here are into both hobbies. Is there something common in us that might lead to an interest in both? Love of beauty? Or science? Or is the night sky in some way similar to beautiful music? Or maybe both provide a solitary escape? Would love to hear others opinion on this.
  23. I'm building an adapter to connect an RJ9 headset output to a 3.5mm jack output(TRRS, mic KY379-SPV1840LR5H-B: http://www.kynix.com/Parts/3439/SPV1840LR5H-B.html included). I have designed it so far to use DG409 (4:1) analog multiplexers to choose what lines are connected to what (for example Pin 1 on the RJ9 connector will be connected to the Sleeve of the 3.5mm jack (TRRS). This is done by connecting one of the AUX outputs to the 1 side and choosing which of the 4 outputs to output to. NOTE: the DG409's that I'm using have two MUX's in one chip so I'm basically grounding all the inputs/outputs of one of the muxes for each chip as I only have use for one PER chip (i'm using 4 chips to route 4 signals, Left (only mono audio needed), MIC and 2 GNDS) The 4 outputs (on each chip) have a 1MOhm pull-down resistor on each of them while the inputs have different size pull-downs (don't know why I need this to output the audio properly). The Speaker channel has a 4.7kOhm pull-down, the MIC channel has a 220Ohm pull-down and the 2 GND lines have a 100kOhm pull-down. I am currently powering/controlling everything off of the Hummingboard (which is outputting the audio) and trying to use the dual supply function (+/- 5V supply). I am supplying negative voltage via the use of a voltage converter (LTC660) which is also getting its power also from the Hummingboard. Currently I'm testing it by outputting audio from a Hummingboard which is travelling through the analog MUX and being outputted to a RJ9 connector which is connected to an IP phone, and I'm listening to the output speaker on the IP phone. Issues that I am seeing: (1) Noise on the output - there is a distinct hum that I hear on the speaker when audio is playing through. There are peaks occurring at the 50Hz harmonics. (2) the ground connected to the voltage converter (-ve voltage provider) is 2-7mV higher than the ground on the Hummingboard. NOTE: I also have connected 5 op-amps to be used as buffers (RC4558, so 10 buffers really) to the +ve and -ve voltage supplies. NOTE: Because everything is powered/outputted from the Hummingboard and thus everything is sharing a ground. The audio GND and circuit ground are the same. QUESTIONS: (1) Is the voltage converter's higher ground potential the cause of my AC hum? (2) Could the use of capacitors in series with the audio signal lines help alleviate this problem? i.e. use 10uF or 22uF caps before inputting the analog MUX's? I've been looking at some audio switching schematics and they seem to use capacitors in series for the audio signal lines sometimes High Level Schematic As you can see I'm trying to choose where to output the SPK and MIC lines from the AUX to the RJ9 connector. For the SPK line, mux 2,3 and 4 are not outputting signals to the lines connected to the the mux 1 output line, thus they are an open switch. Here's an image of the frequency analysis of the noise recorded on the MIC line. As you can see the 50Hz harmonics are still prevalent. NOTE: I am passing the audio GND lines through the analog multiplexer as well to choose what pin it is outputted to. Hence the GND line is seeing a small resistance in series (17Ohms) due to the switch being open. Is this possibly the cause of my AC hum/ground loop, as a difference in ground line resistance will be present? Or is this resistance small enough to be ignored.... Also could it be that if my buffers are outputting voltages slightly lower than what was inputted (due to the +/- 5V dual supply not being high enough) this could cause AC Hum?
  24. I'm trying to upgrade an older audio theater system with Bluetooth, so I can play music from my phone. Anybody have any experience with upgrading an older systems as such? I'm stuck trying to decide between these two brands. One is Bose and the other is from another good Amazon brand that's a bit more affordable, although the product is new on the market. https://kinivo.com/product/btr200-hd-bluetooth-audio-receiver/ https://www.bose.com/products/speaker_accessories/bose-bluetooth-audio-adapter.html#v=bluetooth_adapter_ht_acc_black
  25. I have been experimenting with chassis grounding for many years. In high end audio it is fairly new but in Pro audio it has been used for decades. Chassis grounding can remove unwanted magnetic interference,transformer leakage,common mode noise and other types of signal induced noise. Because most signal grounding intersects the chassis,I find that good chassis grounding will improve SQ.The goal is to make the ground pathway large enough to make a difference in removing all common mode noise. A small pathway will make the difference in SQ very incremental. A good size copper stranded cable is what needed in a star ground circuit. What I call extreme grounding in a star circuit will greatly increase clarity and substantially lower the system noise floor. Digital audio will benefit greatly.
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