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Found 34 results

  1. I have a mid 2012 Macbook Pro, Mackie CR3's, Behringer HPX2000 and I'm just kinda happy. Mackies are connected to 3.5mm headphone output of Macbook Pro to the 1/4 TRS inputs of the Mackies. The Mackies have a 3.5mm aux output I can run the headphones on but when I plug them in the speakers shut off. I read that my laptop has 3.5mm/optical mini toslink output. How can I 100% find that out? I installed a programs called Mactracker and it said I had it but I followed some other instructions to check and it didn't show I do. In any event, without upgrading the Mackies I'd like to improve my all around sound quality and achieve deeper bass expecially when wearing the heaphones which aren't very load from the Mackies. I cloud try going straight to the Macbook with them but I don't want to be moving the cable a lot, the jack already seems loose. Please help, this is what I kinda have in mind, keep in mind I know nothing about all this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X238W58/?coliid=I3OM2SNSG0CQXA&colid=CC9E3PYS8XU9&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  2. SOLD Job 225 power amplifier, designed and manufactured by Goldmund in Goldmund's Geneva Switzerland factory. Lots and lots of rave reviews if you google it. Mint condition, with original factory packing and owner's manual. You are essentially buying a Goldmund amp without the expensive bling at a very low price. You can't buy these anymore. If you also need a preamp, check out my Luminous Audio Technology Axiom II passive, being sold in a separate ad. They are a perfect match. Msrp: $1,500 Sale Price: $995 Buyer pays shipping and paypal fees
  3. Hello, I would like to know if anybody knows how to freeze the display contents in the display window of the Linn Classik. Be it the tuner or cd info, it appears and disappears after a few seconds, leaving - - , 2 stripes as display content. Pushing on the display button of the remote gives no result. Also, to attain a decent volume, I have to go over the half, 50-60 whereas many other amps I got, even less in wpc but I agree that alone does not make the volume. I tend to see that all digital sensored volume setting , be it with leds as I turn the knob, or with numbers, these tend to go high whereas the analog ancient button turn stays under. A budget Sony does not even need the half way. My Musical fidelity MI All In amp, tuner, cd, like the linn, scores far better in a numbered volumesetting. I just like a low volume setting for the same loudness. Gives me a feeling of having much as reserve.
  4. I found the video per the link below pretty much by accident when searching for something rather different. I have to be honest, I found this to be utterly gobsmacking, I had always suspected that amps needed a little more power than simple maths based on required dB(A) and speaker efficiency would suggest, but nothing like this. The video of the amp's display is a little blurry, but's lets just say that I has mentally parked the decimal point in the display a factor of 10 backwards until it dawned on me what was really going on.I would say it is well worth 10 minutes of your time to watch.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRMR9JZ1m0s&app=desktopSo what exactly are the amplifiers measuring? As mentioned in the video it is the peak / tranient power that is captured, so not a continuous average. The amps are CH Precision A1's. This from the CH Precision manual:Power monitoring. Each power amplifier board is equipped with a DSP that monitors the instantaneous output voltage and current of each M1 channel. Both values are sampled at around 100 kHz, ensuring peak values are properly detected. This circuitry has several purposes: give the user a feedback of the peak power fed to the loudspeakers, and detect malfunctions such as short-circuits or amplifier damage.As many will know, Harbeth's are not the most efficient speakers you can buy, in fact rather the opposite, the 40.1's are rated at a lowly 85dB/w/1m.This is another video showing the CH Precision power meters. It is not clear what speakers are used here, but the peak levels are clearly lower than are seen on the Harbeth's. (but still hit the odd spectacular peak)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8i8F62OlMI have to say that when I first viewed the Harbeth clip I was staggered by what I was seeing, this was not what I expected at all. Thinking about it though, it does make sense of some of my past experiences. For example, I first listened to the KEF Blades with a Devialet Expert D240. This appeared to drive the Blades with ease, which is what you might expect. Later, I heard the Blades with a D170. It was terrible. This was not some subtle step back in performance, but a case of the amp not really working with the speaker, dynamics vanished, the bass was a mess. Not good to listen to at all. I remember being puzzled by this at the time. The Blades are rated with a sensitivity of 91dB/w/1m. So for normal listening levels surely you only need 10 or 20 Watts or something? Why should the drop from 240 to 170 make any difference? Based on simple maths re dB(A) levels and power, it did not make sense. However, looking at those figures that the CH Precision amps are displaying, it would seam possible that the D240 was coping with the Blades, but the D170 struggling, with audible consequences.It also reminds me a Devialet event at Oxford Audio, when Devialet's Chief designer Mathieu Pernot stated that his perfect amplifier design would have "infinite power". This seamed slightly absurd to me at the time and I was talking to him about this later in the day. I was making a real world point about the rated power capability of typical speakers. In response Mathieu pointed out that there is no agreed method or protocol for measuring manufacturer quoted speaker power ratings, no agreed standard if you like, so manufacturers tend to give figures that are more like "recommended amplifier power ratings. He then went on to explain that a speaker "rated" for say 50w to 400w, could easily take instantaneous peaks of power way over the 400w "maximum" with ease. OK, try putting that kind of wattage through continuously and heat will generate, voice coils will melt or seize, but very high transient peak power levels are not an issue. For me, knowing (based on maths) that a typical speaker could run at well over 100dB(a) with less than 20W, Mathieu's explanation seamed a little theoretical. Now I have seen the above video, it makes perfect sense. I have always though that higher power amplifiers provide a certain sense of "ease" to the presentation, but I could not really rationalise the science behind what was just a subjective view. Now I have seen the above video, many things make a lot more sense. For those interested, this is a link to the track used in the Harbeth video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhuJxdaU87IPlaying this at home, I would have to say that it does include some rather extreme bass content, which combined with the Harbeth's low efficiency does perhaps go some way towards explaining the rather high power figures on that CI amp. I can also see that my habit of using one or two electronic tracks when auditioning kit might have some merit, I can't see any other music genres providing quite the speaker / amplifier challenge of something like the Pan Sonic track linked above. (plus, I quite like electronic music) Although even with miserable YouTube 128kbs streaming, it does sound pretty awesome with my little Devialet providing the thundering bass power.
  5. Hello, I want to ask following question. I am NO expert. Let this be clear, so don't shoot please. I have a whole collection of Audio. And in that, about 30 amplifiers. But I am going to pick 3 as to compare them in decibel production versus the Ampliers specs. 1. The Cyrus 7. Rated at 40 Watt per channel at 8 ohm. 2. A Chinese Classic Yyshung 08 power amp with a preamp. 125 Watt in 8 ohm, 240 in 4 ohm. 3. And my worry Amp. The Thule IA150B. 125 Watt in 8 ohm, 250 in 4 ohm. last one got overheated, replaced him. Let him cool off. Morning after he was "fine". Fine, well to me not 100%. Even before the heating problem. The volume knob goes to 80 de in steps of 1 db. I need 40 on the display to have a moderate decibel production. That is 12 o clock. number 2 only needs the volume at about 7 o clock or less for the same decibel production. Number 1, the Cyrus with 40 watts needs ALSO about 8 o clock. At 12 o clock you have to begin start running away. Awesome. The Thule has 16 Transistors to attain the 125 Watts. still he lacks in DBs . Clearly . Radio is louder than a cd or internet. but that is not the issue. Do I have a problem with my gorgeous Thule, having only 2 inputs. But Creek doesn't do better. Do I need him being serviced. 40 DBs for a 125 Watt amp and , regardless of the speakers, the DBS do not 🔥 fire. It is disappointing in a way, Other Thule owners reported other problems . did some of the 16 transistors die ??? Cyrus are beasts. Like NAD. With 25 watt they blow you away. English of course. So. If anyone can give some advise or comment please do. In fact, I have the same issue with the Rega Elicit. Software sensored volume knob. He also needs 11 o clock for some good sound. Being not the cheapest Amp. Marantzes, Denons, Sansuis all score much higher than the Thule. I know volume not only depends of the Number of Watts but you expect a more than decent performer giving the performance per channel. Thanks. Aragorn
  6. Looking for some advice on amplifiers. The amplifier of our community group has 'blown up' a couple of weeks ago and was sent in for repairs but we have now been advised that it would cost more to repair than what it is worth. I've been looking around but can't seem to find any amplifiers that have the same connectors of the previous one. Can anybody advise on what amplifiers would have connectors as shown in the attach photos.
  7. Could this new class D module from Bruno be the one to finally silence all the naysayers? The specs looks crazy. Any thoughts from the higher ups here? https://6moons.com/audioreview_articles/purifi/ https://www.purifi-audio.com/eigentakt/
  8. My existing system Wadia 270 CD Transport <--- Now I want to get rid all CDs Wadia 27 DAC Krell Preamp and amplifier Totem Speakers I would like to now put all my CDs on a QNAP NAS system in FLAC format. What do I need to connect QNAP to my system to play music. Thanks AR
  9. I have spent most of my years working on a multichannel AV setup. However, I'm now beginning to set up a mid-level vinyl, 2-channel system. The goal will be to upgrade components over time, but for now I'm trying to decide on a mid-level price-point amplifier. The current configuration is Technics SL-1600 turntable (Shibata stylus) Little Bear T10 tube phono preamp stage **Yamaha RXV1065 AV amp Q Audio 3050i speakers. I would like to swap out the Yamaha stage. My research has suggested two options, a Cayin Audio A-55T (if I'd like to stay full tube), or a Rega Elicit R. Does anyone have thoughts on these amps, or any other suggestion for what might be a good starting point in such a setup? Thanks
  10. Hi - I wasn't sure where on CA to talk about amplifiers, so starting this thread here. With the recent announcement this weekend (or so) at the Munich High-End show that Mytek will make a matching Class D Amplifier for the Brooklyn (called the Brooklyn Amplifier), I thought I would capture the information and what I learn about it (as I have a Brooklyn DAC and want to go Class D for my next amp). Info is very limited other than the release text and images. (no back panel yet). The name is aptly chosen because the Brooklyn AMP fits in the same housing as the DAC, albeit with an inch of extra depth. It will be available in the same silver and black finishes as the Brooklyn DAC. Apart from its elegant looks, the Brooklyn AMP produces 2 x 300 Watts of output power at 8 ohms and drives even the most difficult of loudspeakers with ease. Mytek claims to have created a "triode Class A-sounding Class D" design which will make the Brooklyn AMP relevant for audiophiles worldwide. The expected retail price of the Brooklyn AMP is 1,995 Euro/$, and delivery will start mid-summer 2017.
  11. Hi people, recently i found my dad's old DYNACO A-25's and i wanted to try them. I'm not an expert but for what i know i need aproximately a 40w amplifier. I found this 2; are they fine for normal listening, which is better? The speakers are 40w 8 oem Their limit is 60w https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B06W2KFBG4/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2A1HIM2X1EPQ0 https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B00E9U375C/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ABV9J41D2VYA9 If the amplifier's are not good can you suggest me some for no more than 60 euros. Thank's to evryone
  12. I used to have a few different configurations on my primary PC, but then the PCi-E input on the MOBO apparently died, so I switched over to an external USB Creative Audio SBX soundcard and am now a bit confused on how best to power my existing equipment. All of my previous stuff (Klipsch 2.1, Cambridge Soundworks 2.1, etc.) were all powered devices. I was then able to add to this with my old soundcard (soundblaster X-Fi Xtreme gamer) my Battlechair's audio components for a true 4.2 system. I'm sure most of you don't remember the Battle Chair, but it's got it's own Eastern amplifier to power the speakers on the top of the chair (@ ear level) along with the sub built into the lumbar portion of the seat. It was awesome and I miss it! It's worth googling it just to see what I'm referring to, IMHO. Now, with the above equipment out of the picture - except the Battle Chair, I still want desperately to get this back into the mix, along with the new equipment I've since purchased for the front "2.1" portion of this set-up. I have the new ELAC Debut 6.2 speakers arriving tomoorw and they're going to be the front L/R channels and it'll be paired to a powered Polk Audio PSW10 powered subwoofer. The ELAC obviously will crave much more power than the current little Lepai 2020A+ amp I have been using the drive the Cambridge Soundworks speakers up to this point. My question is, how can I integrate this all into one cohesive working system? I'm desperate for guidance, so if you need any additional information, pictures, etc. in order to answer PLEASE let me know. I think tihs system, with all the available speakers working together, would be phenomenal....I just don't know what to get to tie them all together (e.g.5.1 amplifier, 7.2 amplifier, etc.), not to mention how to incorporate the Battle Chair speakers. Any and all help is truly appreciated.
  13. Hi all, I built the In-Khan-Neatos about two years ago for an in-wall replacement for some mains that failed, they have worked out great. At the time I was using a HK PA4000 100Wx2 setting amp, a HK3375 as a pre and streaming music using a laptop headphone jack to RCA outs. When I replaced the speakers I moved to Schiit passive Pre and also moved to a Schiit Bifrost DAC. The speakers as I said are great and the gear helped improve the sound as well. Well I am thinking I can do better than 15 year old HK PA4000 and I have always been interested in tubes. My main question is how much power in a an amp do I need for the these speakers. I was thinking about going for a whole Schiit system with the Vidar amp (maybe two if that much power is better) and the Freya pre and the price is right. In my main system I have an old Hafler amp rebuilt by Audio by VanAlstine which is great. So that has also had me looking at his stuff (the price goes up). He has a SS amp with 150W per channel or a tubed version which is 200W per channel. I am also looking at his tubed preamps (two versions). With the In-Khan-Neatos, I think they can reproduce the cleanest sound I can feed them so that is what I am looking for. With the power question, can you have to much (I assume so because you are over spending), If you have too much do you just use less dial on the pre. Thanks for the advice and help. http://www.divine-audio.com/in-khan-neatos/ https://avahifi.com/ http://www.schiit.com/ https://www.cnet.com/products/harman-kardon-pa-4000-amplifier/specs/
  14. My trip through headphones and speakers was very diverse, but I finally reached the top floors and found out I am completely lost. As the title suggests, I am about to buy one of the AKGs (most likely 712) and it would seem they lie in a territory that cannot be run from basic on-board sound card. Currently there is an MSI B150 GAMING M3 motherboard with an on-board Realtek ALC1150 sitting in my case. According to many articles and forums, on-board sound cards are better and better. ALC1150 seems to be satisfying for normal use. However, it would seem it is not powerful enough to run the 712 PRO. Not enough anything. Under perfect circumstances: 115dB 40 Hz – 15 kHz,dB +0.02, -0.07 THD 0.0043 I might be new to the higher part of audio technology, but I can tell that the picked headphones would be pointless to connect to such card. Frequency 10Hz - 39.8kHz, max input 200mW, impedance 62 ohmu, sensitivity 105dB SPL/V, jack 3.5mm, cable lenght 3 m Do I go for an external sound card like Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Surround HD, something internal? Do I need additional amp, or will the card manage to run the 712s on its own? Asking like this always annoys the hell out of me, makes me feel like my brain failed. However, here ti comes: I would really appreciate help from the skilled and more knowledgeable. Could some good soul offer advice?
  15. Hi folks, I ordered my first high end headphones. The V Moda Crossfade m100. I rip my CDs as mp3s at 320kbps. Is this good enough quality to utilize the full potential of m100 or do you advise me to keep it FLAC? When it comes to the player. I own a Galaxy Note 2. Do you think it's powerful enough to run the m100 at full throttle or do you think I'll need a specialized player? Some are even using mobile amplifiers... Will I need an amplifiers even when I get, let's say, a recent Sony Walkman? Thanx in advance guys, as you see I'm completely lost Any suggestions are welcome, Umyd
  16. I had my first foray into hi-fi territory when I recently bought a Denon M39 with Dali Zensor 1 speakers. It sounds great - relative to what I was used to. But I know that before too long I'm going to outgrow it (its happening already …. ) and I'll want to swap the micro-system for some separates. Now I mostly play music out of my laptop. This is being piped via an airport express into the Denon with iTunes/Audirvana being the player and using mostly ALAC, FLAC, MP3 and AAC files. I don't really need a CD player and I can't see myself really wanting to use that format again on a regular basis. I'm looking to swap my Micro for a good integrated amplifier - either with an inbuilt DAC or a separate amplifier and DAC. 1)The amp should be integrated and should be decent enough that I don't feel like an upgrade for a few years. 2) Its should pair well with the speakers. 3) Also since the primary source is computer audio, I think the DAC is important. The idea of an internal DAC appeals to me, but I'll be happy to sacrifice it if I can get a decent DAC with amp with same or better value and options as I can see a completely integrated package reduces my options. Second hand is fine. 4) I'm looking at a budget of £400 - 500 max 5) Must accept ALAC and FLAC source I was looking at the …. Cambridge Audio 651A - apparently has a decent onboard DAC but some bad reviews ?? Rega Brio - R - Great Reviews on What Hifi but worried about cruddy cosmetics ( although chrome finish looks quite decent) and lack on inputs esp. optical in NAD 356BEE - but I guess optional dac would push the price up a bit? Rotel RA11 - sounds great! but specifications don't mention support for FLAC or ALAC?? I'm also open to separate DAC and amp solutions as I understand that approach has its advantages
  17. Hi there I have a Neuhaus T-2 tube amp powering two Mordaunt-Short bookshelf speakers (Mezzo 2) using an Airport express to feed it my iTunes and Spotify music via AirPlay. I now want to replace the amplifier by a tube amp with integrated AirPlay connectivity over Wi-Fi. Any suggestion for a model/brand with decent tube amp part and good D/A converter? Price range 500 to 1500 US$. Would be a plus if the model would visually show of the tubes. :-) Thanks for any pointers!
  18. As with most audiophiles the world over, I love music. I am an engineer, pianist and classical listener predominantly, but open to all genres and music types and listen avidly to any music type either recommended or discovered. It all started for me, as these things have a wont to, with some money burning a hole in my pocket. A pocket that was not much used to having burning money in it... Countless daily hours over countless months of reading reviews, studying design methodologies and factors influencing sound reproduction, engineering principles and costs, listening sessions to train myself to be able to distinguish quality when heard and what to listen for. A clear obsession with the reproduction of sound. I started with speakers. The purchase of speakers I would suggest should be both the biggest, most personal, and most important part of designing and building a system that is perfect for you; or your wallet. Let's be clear here - the best system is the best system that you can afford. What matters is deriving the best possible sound from the core components that you can afford. That starts with you speakers. The choice of a speaker is a very personal decision and the reality is that when you go above a certain threshold, most speakers are of very fine quality and much better that the start-up audiophile will have ever had access to before. I settled on a used pair of B&W 803's. Perfect for me as they were aesthetically pleasing, sonorous (to my ears), and, most importantly, within budget. Ching - $4,000. Next was the amplifier. Here there is such an unbelievable level of choice as to be mindboggling. I took a very simple rule and applied it. I wanted to spend no more than 50% of my speaker cost on my amplifier. That gave me a budget of $2,000 and significantly limited my options. With an amplifier your main concern should be 1) will it effectively drive your speakers, 2) does it sound good with your speakers and 3) what will you use as your source. I wanted to go digital and the NAD 390DD was (and is) an amazing choice and an amazing amplifier. I got a refurbished unit, some nice transparent cabling and hooked it up to my mac mini as a source playing files from an external hard drive. It was amazing - I was in audiophile heaven. Ching - $2,000 - budget blown. One would think that should be the end of the story. A $6,000 system, some fantastic digital files at 44.1/high resolution and a newly discerning ear to appreciate it all. Those audiophiles out there will well appreciate that this is never quite the case though. As one learns more and more in this hobby, the quest for perfection is a niggling one. What is referenced above is the core - speakers and an amplifier - but the most important aspect, in my opinion, comes after. This is the portion of the journey where you work to make the absolute most of what you have. My beautiful 803's are never going to be $50,000 Wilson's or $80,000 sonus fabers. My 390DD is never going to rival the very best in available amplification. My MacMini will not stand up to a $100,000 DcS stack. But the steps taken post the acquisition of these devices will most definitely allow you to get close. Much closer than you might think possible - particularly up until you get to the speakers. I am just going to give it straight here - in my experience the source and more correctly the chain from source to amplifier has an effect similar to a jump of many $10,000 dollars on the amplifier speaker side. I have heard amazing speakers with amazing amplifiers and if the source is not of sufficient quality and, more importantly, the signal chain from the source to the amplifier, then you are wasting all that money on your amp and speakers. I have no doubt that if you're spending $120,000 on Fabers Aida's then you will have on the best at every level, but if you are operating at a less billionaire like level then the importance of the point above will be much more salient. In utilizing a mac mini for audio I was using usb out to usb in on the amplifier. More than fine. The problem with this is the quality of the power supply in the mini is dubious for audio (switching). You don't need to know all this, but suffice to say you want clean power for good results. Insert iUSB power regulator (or similar) into the chain for immediate improvement. Dramatic improvement in the case of the 390DD. Ching - $200 - we are getting cheaper and closer... Next thing to fix is the inherent problems with USB for audio generally... Now we don't have choice in terms of getting the signal out of the mini, but we do have a choice of what we feed to the amplifier. Enter a USB converter. Suffice to say I spent probably the most amount of time here in terms of research; clocking and conversion is a dark art... I tried multiple devices here in my system - each with their own positives and negatives, but settled; more than settled, fell in love with, the Yellowtec PUC2. This is not the prettiest and very far from the most expensive, but in my considered opinion, the very best; not just for the money, full stop. This device has had the single greatest impact on output quality and I now have a very nice transparent AES cable feeding my 390DD a magnificent, clean, musical digital signal. If you own a 390DD, I will tell you that the AES input is the best - this is not the case on all amplifiers, but for the 390DD the AES is your man. Ching $480 There is one final thing. One final tweak that, if you are searching for the best for your system will be the icing sugar on top. Try using a dedicated card to store your music. The USB bus on my mac mini is busy with external drives and other non audio related activities. The card slot is a clean bus and delivers a mite of extra sparkle. Ching - $50 What's the point here... Well what I want is to hopefully save a little time and heartache for someone that has a similar desire to that which I had. Implement the absolute best audio quality you possibly can on a limited budget (and in my case also with the flexibility of a media centre/TV setup for the mini). My goal was the best digital possible. If your goal is analogue quality then this direction is not for you I would suggest. Especially given the the 390DD has been very badly commented on for its phono stage... I have never tried it and never will. For digital though - it is sublime. $6,730 + a little bit lost in mis-steps along the way is the cost of my music system and I can promise you that I have heard very many relatively well implemented systems across multiple brands at 10x+ of the cost, in dedicated rooms, that don't even come close on multiple criteria - that is obviously while critically listening to the exact same recording. The point is that if you are smart about your expenditure and give the time and effort required to learn, listen, test and repeat, you can achieve amazing results on a comparatively low budget. Many reading this might consider this a nonsensical comment with expenditure as above, but that was my budget. What I am saying is that with care this quality scales. I paid $6000 for the core and $730 to take that core to its highest level. If you can only spend $1,000 on the core then the $730 will still bring that core to its highest level and certainly will be much more valuable than spending that extra $700 on a bit more speaker at the cost of improving the source-amplifier chain. What I have found with all my time is that, while you have to start at the end you will finish at the start. The speakers are the end and still the most important element in reproduction of sound; but it is the start; high quality recordings and the methodology of getting those signals to your amp and speakers which delivers the high fidelity. Bad recording or bad transmission will ruin even the best speaker amp combinations. So if you are going to buy into a high fidelity system this is where you need to focus - on the fidelity. Fidelity is detail and nuance - this is inherent at the start of the signal chain and can only get diluted from there. Once the signal hits your amplifier there is nothing you can do but hope that you remain more than satisfied with your investment in the core components. I want to thank the audiophile community and all the forums and content that exists to make this journey possible for someone starting from a zero base. I don't expect everyone or possibly anyone to agree with what I have said above, but do wish to offer my experience for someone who was where I was and thus pay it forward! Separate note - the 390DD is a direct digital amplifier blending the functions of amplification gain and digital analogue conversion in one device. If you are planning on a class A or A/B amplifier you will have the extra complexity of a DAC to consider. I wish you luck!
  19. So honestly when it comes to hi-fi headphones I'm actually pretty inexperienced and don't really know what I'm doing, anyways I got a pair of HD650s for Christmas and have been using a little Fiio portable amp for them but I know it's not nearly good enough and want to upgrade for better sound quality. The only problem is I have no idea what to get. I know I don't want to spend over $500, but I don't know if I should get a tube amp and DAC, just a tube amp, or an amp/DAC combo thing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  20. Are there any data on how often amps hit clipping?
  21. Hi guys, Thought you might wanna see this. I've just come across an interesting Kickstarter project for a really small personal amplifier called the UAMP on Kickstarter. Apparently works with most devices (phones/tablets/DAPs/laptops) and is said to make them sound a lot better > https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1746450443/uamp-soul-shaking-audio-for-your-ears/posts
  22. Hey there, We just launched a kickstarter campaign for our new headphone amp. We would very much appreciate it if you could check us out [here]. If you have any questions, feel free to ask here or on the kickstarter and I’ll try to answer to the best of my ability. Thanks for your time! (My apologies if this is not an appropriate post…)
  23. Rats! I got everything all set up and found out my Adcom GFA-535 does not work, so I need an AMP (not a receiver). My preference is for clean, accurate and tight sound. I mostly use the speakers to play music. I am wondering what makes more sense 1. Get another Adcom GFA-535 or similar on eBay 2. Purchase a Emotiva UPA-200 or Mini-X A-100 3. ATI AT602 for $250 4. Something else What do your suggest and why? Also, I am not quite sure if I need a pre-amp. Adcom said I did, but Emotiva said I did not. If you know, please let me know. Here is the equipment I am using (I pasted links to manuals below). This is connected to a computer and it is critical that the sound be controllable by the computer (hence no receiver). Polk Monitor 40 Series II Polk PSW10 HT Omega eClaro (PC sound card) If needed, I have a Klipsch Promedia dd 5.1 preamp/decoder Polk Monitor 40s: http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i...L000074437.pdf Polk Sub: http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/m...SW10_12_MN.pdf HT Omega eClaro: http://www.htomega.com/filedown/eclaro.pdf klipsch dd5.1: ProMedia DD - 5.1 | Klipsch http://www.themusichelpers.com/z/248061100000001 Thanks, J
  24. Ralf11

    First Watt

    No, not Nelson Pass (!) But I thought this was an interesting article... https://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/application_notes/power-amplifiers-the-importance-of-the-first-watt
  25. Hi! - Today while fiddling around with a new DC supply to my DAC with my Amp in standby.. I noticed two small plumes of smoke from the amplifier and the lovely (not) smell of toasting components.. I was surprised to say the least! (as it was in standby - relays not feeding power I assumed). Still not sure what fiddling with a 12vdc supply to my DAC would mean via the balanced XLR to the amp.. So I took the case off for a look and a sniff.. I am not sure whether the caps are potted/bonded and this has discoloured or have my caps started leaking some time ago? Votes please.. Also looking on the rectifiers (where the smoke approx came from) I see white 'speckled dots' I wonder if the 3 ICs (mosfets?) were the things that cooked and boiled their thermo paste onto the rectifiers? Amp still works as I pulled the power quickly. Still amazed at how HUGE the Toroid is in this amp. Not happy tho And now the 'spattered' bridge rectifier PCB?
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