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Extreme_Boky

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  1. Well, according to Jeff Zhu, PCM and DSD DAC sections are separate paths (both discrete). So... you can draw your own conclusion from that statement.
  2. It's not that bad.... May would have to be constantly ON for close to 17 hours, to burn (only) 1kWh of energy. The cost of 1 kilowatt-hour in States is around 10 cents. So, don't worry too much 😉
  3. I had very nice XLR (balanced) interconnect cables that I listened to for a couple of years. A friend of mine heard it and compared it with his interconnect cables, and decided that he'd love to have the exact cable as mine. So, I made another one for him - exactly the same. But, it sounded terrible. The newly made cable was flat, did not have that beautiful spatial and relaxed presentation like the one I listened to for a couple of years. I had to dissect the cable to show it to him; to convince him that the cables were identical... I just asked him to be patient and listen to it for a while
  4. The only time I can tell the natural harmonics & beautiful depth in the soundscape in front of me is with the native recordings, played back bit-perfect, with no upsampling of any kind. The moment I start oversampling - things turn ugly; bigger than life, impressive, trying hard... but unnatural, flat and ultimately boring and unlistenable - like something sucked out the living thing out of music... The biggest hit is the loss of depth perception. I use nuc 11 with the linear power supply (which is just one half - the positive one, of the symmetrical power supplies I use for my
  5. The idea is to leave the DAC box free in space to improve cooling (and sound 🙂). Don't put anything on top. DAC runs fairly hot, especially during summer.
  6. Mine does the same... it's the transformers in the PS unit. They are potted.... the case is aluminium... so the only other possible root cause is the loose windings... The noise starts to be audible when the analog circuitry is switched on and starts drawing substantial current to ensure its class A operation. It is quite faint though. I think the buzz got reduced when I unstacked the DAC from the PS unit. I don't really take it as a negative; I kinda expect it from class-A electronics, to a certain degree, and the May is within my expectations.
  7. I was able to obtain further improvement in sound quality once I separated DAC from the power supply box. Stunning, really - transparency, detail, definition, separation... all better. The additional extra is better DAC box cooling during hot summer days; that thing dissipates a lot of heat.
  8. You missed this paragraph... it seems: The RCA cables are not ideal because any interference induced when you move equipment around will propagate to the first stage of amplification and will be amplified with a full gain that's available. You must use balanced cabling, which ensures that the induced noise will cancel-out (same amount of noise induced on Hot and on Cold, of the same polarity/direction, which gets cancelled due to the high common-mode rejection ratio of the first amplification stage). In addition.... google single-ended vs. balanced... The shield is not
  9. May casing is aluminium, so it may be toroidal transformers' related... (inside the May PS; the toroidal transformers are not magnetically shielded), but I have May DAC stacked on top of May PS and I can't hear any noise whatsoever... I mute NUC11 HQ Player, which sends a digital zero signal to May. What's left in this case, is May's analogue circuitry with its un-shorted (to ground) analog output. And, yes, I have my ears right next to the speakers. The RCA cables are not ideal because any interference induced when you move equipment around will propagate to the first
  10. I do not think it is "stacking-related".... and here's why: I have May DAC stacked on top of May PS. I also have a very revealing, wide bandwidth and high input impedance, DC-coupled amplifier. No volume controls, just direct coupling from May XLR-outs to my amplifier. I use unshielded (!) XLR cables. I can not hear ANY noise whatsoever when I MUTE May, or when I pause the playback from my NUC11. NOTE: Muting the playback on NUC11 will not short the MAY's analog-out to the ground, it just sends a digital zero (which servers other purposes...), but, as I said, it does not mute MAY's
  11. Well, if MAY DAC and PS case is aluminium... then it could be Hegel's toroidal transformer that radiates magnetic field; there's no mu-metal (magnetic) shielding of any kind around Hegel's toroidal transformer... and that's like... 300 - 400VA transformer. Placing line-level HiFi equipment on top of any amplifier is just asking for trouble, unless the amp's transformer is fully shielded. Old Japanese amps had mains transformer(s) positioned in such way to minimize this magnetic field + they had magnetic shield AND copper RF shield(!!); however, those were E-transformers - not toroi
  12. The other path would be via mains cabling; Hegel decided to ground the IEC mains right next to the WiFi module.... there's probably a reason for that.... the noise. In addition, Hegel does not have a mains RF filter (it's supposed to protect noise/rubbish being fed from Hegel, BACK to mains). Maybe when you unstacked the stack, you also plugged MAY PS to a different outlet??
  13. How are they stacked? Hegel at the bottom, then MAY power supply, and then MAY DAC at the top? Or, Hegel at the top? There's a WiFi module inside Hegel that could potentially cause interference.... especially with that ribbon cable being exposed well above the DAC PCB ground fill/ground plane. Ideally, those ribbon cable' signals should be sandwiched between DAC PCB ground planes (multi-layered PCB design) Anyway, it would be interesting to know how you stacked the units.
  14. Most definitely May L2; later on you could do modifications yourself. If you can not do modifications yourself, go for May KTE. Just on the subject of mains fuse, for example - I cleaned the fuse that comes in L2 with isopropyl alcohol, I also cleaned the fuse socket/holder with the cotton bud dipped into isopropyl. The difference was easily noticeable and quite stunning. The level of details improved, the bass firmed up. So, it is worth spending some money on KTE speced May (which apart from other things, comes with a better-speced mains fuse). As I said already, the question is
  15. My remote was driving me nuts. Sometimes it will work without any issue, but most of the time it just wouldn't do anything for the first 10 - 30 minutes, and then it will start to work on its own... After a lot of experimenting, I realised that the remote uses two button batteries connected in parallel without any "OR-ing" to avoid issues where one battery has a higher voltage (which is always the case). So, I removed one battery and - bingo. The remote has never skipped a beat since then. I am trying to contemplate the reason for connecting two batteries in parallel... but I can
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