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  1. I have a similar issue with my Alldaq USB isolator, sometimes it doesn't get recognized when i boot up my PC. The only way of fixing that is unplugging the wallwart and plug it back in. Sometimes, however it's enough to disconnect the USB cable either from the PC or from the Isolator to your DAC. Next time the PC isn't detecting the DAC try disconnecting the DAC from the Intona and connect it back in. Try both variants, disconect from the PC the USB cable that goes to the Intona . Then it should work, however it maybe that you need to do that everytime you turn on your PC. Feel free to ask me if i didn't express myself clearly, i am not good at explaining these things in english ^^
  2. Hey I am selling 1x Rare Philips E88CC (6922/6Dj8) SQ from 1960 Heerlen factory (Netherlands) SQ stands for special quality, low noise factory selected tubes. Test results are: Tested on ELPO P-508 = 11/10 mA! Price : 45$ I ship anywhere from Switzerland for around 10-15$. Very good price, they sell for much more on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xphilips+e88cc+sq.TRS0&_nkw=philips+e88cc+sq&_sacat=0 and even more on other websites https://www.tubemonger.com/Philips_Miniwatt_MINT_NOS_1962_SQ_E88CC_6922_p/210.htm 130$ is the lowest price i managed to find!
  3. I have a Khadas Tone Board which costs around 95usd and without isolator there is a very noticeable degradation in sound quality. The question is am allocating my money poorly? Spend 420$ on the Intona for a 100$ DAC? I asked opinions in the Headphone Headquarters Discord server, and they were still making jokes about me 3 days later wanting to spend 400bucks on a USB isolator which would give no benefit whatsoever paired with a 100$ DAC and that I should rather invest my money in a Soekris 1321 DAC. On the ASR Forum i have been told that a well engineered DAC can deal with incoming jitter and noise from USB and therefore a USB isolator is redundant if not counterproductive by adding it's own noise Any perceived improvement is just placebo. That makes me think that my DAC is poorly engineered, which doesn't seem true considering that the measurements on ASR are impeccable or that they are wrong. I can assure you it's not placebo. What do you guys think would a better DAC be a better investment? Let's say i buy a Topping D50 or Soekris 1321 with a linear power supply and connect it to my PC per Fiber Optic cable? Or USB of course. I can only say that i welcome the improvement the Alldaq brings to my system and i don't know if a better DAC would do the same and render a USB isolator redundant. A used microRendu might be an option aswell. I have around 400$ budget.
  4. Thank you very much for your answer, very enlightening, i'd pay you a beer for it! I don't quite understand what you mean by going toe-to-toe with the Sinxer. Go toe-to-toe because you assume that your isolator is better or because you would be curious to know how would come ahead? I would be curious to know, how important is reclocking and all that stuff (femto-clock etc) in your USB isolator? Let's say we assign points to the quality of the sound with and without your ISO regen, the sound quality is 100 with your isolator and 0 without. How much of these 100 points go to the galvanic isolation itself and how much to the regenerating/reclocking aspect of the device?
  5. Hey thank you very much for your answer. I decided against the Intona back then because of it's ugly plastic casing and i heard in this forum that it adds an unnatural sheen to the sound. While the Alldaq got a very good review being fully transparent which i can confirm. The ISO regen was much pricier also i live in Europe. Should i decide to buy an Intona i would buy one of the newer models which they claim is much superior and that would be indeed around the same price of the ISO Regen. The Intona somehow gives a better impression. There is also a japanese Isolator https://www.fa.hdl.co.jp/en/isolator/en-highspeed/en-usb029h2rp.html Also around the same price, uses an IC repeater if i understand correctly instead of a reclocker i asked them and they answered me "USB-029H2-RP is used USB hub controller as as a reclocking stage. It has been observed that the USB hub controller exhibit the best output jitter performance on their USB 2.0 data lines." I don't understand what they mean by that, maybe you do? USB 3.0 wasn't a requirement for me just a bonus that maybe could prove useful in the future. But it's interesting that you mention it because Daniel from Intona said "I recommend using an USB 2.0 isolator for audio if your DAC does not require USB 3.0. There is no advantage but more energy waste and potentially less isolation." So if i decide to buy another isolator, i will stick to 2.0 What do you mean by 1000s?
  6. Hey The reason I am asking is, I personally am using an isolator from Alldaq https://shop.alldaq.com/Interfaces/USB-3-0-Isolators/ALLDAQ-ADQ-USB-3-0-ISO-PS-3-0-Isolator-incl-Power-Supply::143382.html and I am having a rather annoying issue with it. Basically it does not have an on/off switch so when it's plugged in directly to the wall, even if my PC is turned off it continuously draws power and also powers my Khadas tone board. Also then I am having issues with distortion and PC crashing, I thought my GPU was faulty until to get rid of all those leds burning 24/7 I connected it into a power strip with an on/off switch. But now whenever I boot my PC the DAC does not get recognized. i contacted their support and they said I need to re-connect the USB cable that goes from the isolator to the DAC every time I boot my PC after the windows welcome screen, In other words, disconnect the DAC from the Isolator when i shut down my PC and reconnect it after bootup. They said it only works with a specific power-up sequence, that's how it's intended to be use. I am using it between my PC and Khadas Tone Board which is then connected to a headphone tube amp. So the USB isolator is powering up the Khadas and no longer my PC, because the Khadas doesn't use an external power supply and the power provided from one USB connector is not enough to power up both the isolator and the Khadas. I am not sure if i would be facing the same issue if the Khadas would use an external power supply and isolator would use USB power. I guess so. I am wondering if you guys using the Intona Isolator can leave it permanently connected to your PC while all power is disconnected?
  7. I think i was wrong, reclocking is one of those terms that gets misused a lot. Anyway most usb isolators use reclocking, intona and alldaq included, same thing. The japanese one on the other hand, regenerates (repeats) the signal with an IC repeater, I think that's a more costly approach .
  8. I could do that, what i mean by 100% transparent, it doesn't alter/color the sound, it simply removes all the noise and puts the signal back to it's original clock. In a system where there is very little noise, let's say you are using a battery powered laptop and you have good cables, a good dac... with or without the alldaq isolator there might be very little difference in sound quality. But if you are using a desktop PC and a lot of noise is getting carried over via USB the difference will be much bigger. It simply not doing anything to the sound signature
  9. It costs 110 dollars less than the intona so it might still be the better buy, if we would assume that they perform equally well.
  10. Well no i didn't compare them directly myself but, from what i have read from people that bought it that the Intona adds a sort of unnatural sheen to the sound, that's what Manisandher said in the thread here https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/34683-usb-audio-cracked-finally/#comments, among others who have bought it. The Alldaq on the otherhand is 100% transparent it doesn't add anything. It costs the same as the Intona but is USB 3.0 compatible + aluminum casing which is always better. at the end of the day i don't care
  11. Lol no And you shouldn't do such accusations out of the blue. Just trying to help. I had a ground loop with my PC so i did a lot of research. Just sharing what i found I payed 264usd for that thing here in Switzerland, but the Intona would have costed pretty much the same. If i was on a higher budget i would have bought an USB isolator from Japan, because i am sucker for japanese stuff, but i managed to resist. There are other isolators too, i am gonna list them from cheapest to most expensive: 1. Delock USB 2.0 Isolator with 3 kV Isolation, around 141.00 USD but has no reclocking https://www.delock.de/produkte/G_62982/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en https://www.reichelt.de/delock-usb-2-0-isolator-with-3-kv-isolation-delock-62982-p214749.html?r=1 2. Wyred 4Sound Recovery around 150usd https://wyred4sound.com/products/digital-converters/recovery 3. Ciúnas Audio USB Hub 200 euroes, however the ground isn't isolated so it's no good if you have a ground loop, you have 30 days trial which is pretty neat. if i understood it correctly it runs with rechargable batteries, to avoid noise from a power supply https://www.ciunas.biz/product-page/iso-hub-internal-power?lang=de 4. USB 2.0 Hi-Speed Isolator around 239.00 USD without taxes https://pro.intona.eu/en/products/7054 5. Alldaq USB 3.0 SuperSpeed-Isolator https://www.alldaq.com/adq-iso/ 6.USB-029H2-RP 290.00 USD, from a japanese company https://www.fa.hdl.co.jp/en/plink/usb-029h2-rp.html 7. Uptone ISo regen 325 usd https://uptoneaudio.com/products/iso-regen 8. IFDI nano iGalvanic3.0 around 350usd https://ifi-audio.com/products/nano-igalvanic3-0/
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