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About Racerxnet

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  1. Why, Are you the only one who's opinion counts?? MAK
  2. For Sale is my new Allo USB Sig,and Shanti power supply. It is brand new and only used to see if there was any improvement from what I currently have. I will ship it out in the original boxes for each unit. I will only sell as a complete kit; 1.) Case for the Sig 2.) Allo USB SIG with Moode audio OS. 3.) Shanti power supply for the above. You will not have to wait for Allo to ship the product out as others have. 9 out of 10 rating. Price is $400.00 and you pay shipping. Mark
  3. Yes I did as well as much better coherency. Thanks everyone. Mark
  4. I never said they were hand made and aware of Rel-caps reputation. With the cost of replacement speakers I will only replace parts that are of the same brand/value as original if possible. The speakers were made around 1996 or so from when Arnie Nudell left Infinity, and started the Genesis brand in Colorado. The caps are old and I am updating the crossover with new parts while available. I'm not interested in changing the tonal qualities. The wafer switch was bad and had intermittent contact. The original Culver 600uf 100v 5% cap was no longer available, so I piggybacked 2 x 300uf 100v 5% NP caps as seen. The new wafer switch installed, and new Rel caps as well. The speakers are 25 year old. My cost per side is around $250.00. Cheap enough to do ail of the components on both sides of the crossovers. They will last another 25 years possibly. Mark
  5. Thanks to everyone on this small project. I was able to identify the wafer switch and get a replacement. New Rel-caps, switch and NP 300uf x 2, 100v, 5% caps. Mark
  6. I have already determined with a meter that the switch is bad. I'd clean the switch, but broken pins are another matter. I could solder new leads onto the pins and give it a go if all else failed. Thanks for the heads up for the other web site and I will post if Gary cannot provide 2 new ones. Digikey has hundreds to choose from and I need to remove it to test the pinout. Thanks, MAK
  7. Whats my problem? I already have a reply to Gary Koh for the switch. If he cannot source it I have to improvise. Hard wiring it is a poor choice. What frequency should it be wired to? How can I select a different frequency if hard wired? Is there a reason it needs to be hard wired? Do you really think your position regarding the matter is a better engineered product that what Arnie Nudell and Paul McGowan have provided? I'd need hard data from you to find any credibility from what you state. What I do want is to identify the switch. It's place in the crossover network is transparent if properly speced and implemented. MAK
  8. Do you know where I can find the single deck rotary switch? 3 position, right angle, through hole. That's the question. MAK
  9. This is a case where the pins soldered to the board are possibly broke. I won't know until I un-solder the switch, but at that point I'd rather just replace with new. I hope that there may be a part number on the top side. MAK
  10. Welcome to the club. MAK
  11. Can any of you guys identify the rotary selector switch used for the mid range setting. I am looking for a direct replacement before having to re-engineer the switch to the board. Upper left side of pic. The output to the midrange panel is intermittent when wiggling it.
  12. People buy shit on a shingle all the time. Take LH for example. MAK
  13. Mine is solid state. My friends wife's is battery operated.😃
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