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Chinquapin

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  1. Can’t imagine that CV19 is helping....new power supply and a new front end... hmmmm... Allo, are you reading my comments? Please include a vacuum tube(just kidding)😃
  2. Ampularity, thanks for the kind words. Glad to help. I would leave the gain at 20dB unless you aren’t getting enough volume. Remember that this amp requires at least 4 days of burn in. It will open up in that time. things to consider: outboard DAC. Weiland SU-9. Will investigate if this unit can drive your amp properly. If not, then consider a headphone amp which can operate as a line stage(volume control). Cool stuff out there for not much money.
  3. Yes, bypassing the pot does improve the sound. With the pot, the sound is a bit thin in low frequencies. Amp blossoms without the pot and the 24v ps really lets you see the capability of the V+D. unhook the wires from the pot-each channel has three wires. Twist the outer two wires together and isolate the middle wire. That’s it. Then you can undo what you have done if you decide to sell the amp in the future- but I doubt you will want to. Good luck.
  4. Have found that 2.1 or 2.5 seems to work OK.
  5. V+D should have come with an adapter which works well with the Alitov 24v PS. I’m sure Amazon has the adapter, but check with the dealer first. Adapter is usually taped to the foam packing of the V+D.
  6. ALITOVE AC 100-240V to DC 24V 5A Power Supply Adapter Converter with 5.5x2.1mm DC Output Jack for 5050 3528 LED Strip Module Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GC6VS8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YVoPEbB7DM3AW good internal components with good quiet output—and it’s cheap—$20.99. Speaker wise, I’ve been using Carolina Audio speakers for some time. Full range, and 2/3 way speakers with simple series crossovers that are easy to drive. They are fast, and have pinpoint imaging with tremendous depth of field. I’ve been through a lot of audio gear in my 66 years, but when I found Carolina Audio-about 20 years ago-I was finally able to realize all of my audio goals in my system(s). Carolinaaudio.com Give Ronnie Thackeray a call to just chat, ask questions-and see what you think after that. I’m building a two-way with Ronnie at his house later this summer. I’m using a Morel tweeter and a Mark Audio woofer. We are both using a lot of Mark Audio drivers these days. It’s easy to build speakers that the V+D loves with MA. I prefer a nice tube line stage to drive the V+D. There are many out there but I love the Schiit Audio Freya+. Also, Tom Tutay at Transition Audio Design will build any sort of tube device you might want. Scott Nixon Tube DAC+ produces an amazing soundstage. Do get the upgraded power supply. Slainte!
  7. Weiland SU-9 AliBaba $81; Schiit Audio Freya+ $900 even with average tubes is magical. I’m using 1940’s-50’s Sylvania/RCA 6SN7s in a Schiit Freya+ and the sound is so close to my bespoke electronics with similar tubes. SU-9 is a real value as well. A good tube line stage is synergistic with the Volt+D, but you should eliminate the stepped attenuator from the circuit. This allows a tube line stage like the Freya+ to properly drive the V+D and produce a linear frequency response. As KingRex suggested, unscrew the wires from each channel on the back of the pot. Per channel, tie the outer leads together. Leave the center lead hanging. This takes the pot out of the circuit. Feed the V+D with 24VDC for best results.
  8. Let the unit burn for four days. Will sound much better. Remove the volume pot, and be certain to use a 24vdc power supply. This will max out the amp’s performance. Enjoy! Too bad you never heard a fully modded Altec 1570. Yours did not have vacuum tube rectification which is a real game changer in the sound of that amp.
  9. Orchard Audio’s BOSC monoblocks cost $1250 ON SALE! That’s only a 10 fold difference in price- not the same. Perhaps a fair comparison, perhaps not. The notion that price dictates quality is the reason for the largely inflated prices in High End Audio. A good friend who builds loudspeakers told me that the higher he raised his prices, the more speakers he sold. The human ego is a fragile and easily influenced thing. I’ve learned over time to listen, and trust my ears.
  10. You say it lacks a lot. Please be more specific.
  11. Looking for sonic improvement while waiting for the 100 watter? Use one channel of two V+Ds for mono-blocks. To protect the unused channel short one input, and put a 50 ohm 10 watt resistor on that channel. This kills one channel and allows each amp to work less hard. The difference in separation is readily apparent. In addition, the overall sound is more relaxed. Another mod you may notice in the pictures is the removal of the volume pot. The input impedance of the amp chip without the pot in the 20 dB gain setting is 60 K ohms. This is a perfect load for most line stages. With the pot in the circuit, the input impedance is around 8 K ohms. This might be a difficult load for some devices, and would limit the use of long interconnects. In my main system, I thought the amp with the attenuator sounded somewhat thin when compared to the amp without the pot. The line stages that I use can easily drive long cables or difficult loads. Still, removing the pot improved the frequency balance. Removing the pot is easy, or you could have Tom Tutay do it for you. PM if you want to know how and are modestly competent with diagonal cutters, and a soldering iron.
  12. I have not yet tried two 12v car batteries in series for the requisite 24v, but I intend to—probably with a Breeze D2 3116 amp at first. To be honest, I do not believe it will show benefit. Unless you are off of the grid and used to using big batteries regularly, this type of PS is impractical. Nice swag with the power cable!
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