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Everything posted by LowMidHigh

  1. I suggest you get your network signal for the device that doesn't go across the moat from your router . Run a CAT6 cable and bypass the ER. Now you should have only one device on the A side. It's going to be the one that passes its signal directly to the device on the B side. Next, test for dropouts.
  2. Maybe for starters have only one device connected to the A side? It will certainly help to pinpoint the issue.
  3. I'm much blessed for your private stash... Thank you for acting so quickly and for successfully resolving it.
  4. Thanks. I wont' trouble you with the details of my systems (plural), but you've shed enough light for me to proceed.
  5. Is your system supposed to generate shipping notification with a tracking number? I know I haven't received mine. My web order # was #8853. I later added ISO-Regen with web order #9029 Was I pushed out of the first batch due to the addition? (No good deed goes unpunished?)
  6. Fair enough, Alex But the operative word was planned. I don't have that system in place yet, and your guidance would've helped with designing the topology. Let me attack it from a different angle: Would going out from the 'A' side to the Mac Min potentially make any difference? Or that's an exercise in futility, and only crossing the moat can make a substantial difference?
  7. @Superdad Allow me resubmit my question: My planned movie streamer is ethernet -> Mac Mini -> MiniDSP U-DIO8 with 8 AES channels. (HDMI sends he signal to the TV) First off, ISO Reg + LP-1.2 is to be placed between the Mac Mini and the MiniDSP. The other improvements I’m considering is your Mac Mini DC Kit + external power supply. Given the above, will an ER before the Mac improve the overall sound quality?
  8. Has anyone tried this? ER -> Mac Mini (or PC) -> DAC. I wonder if feeding the Mac Mini the ER would make a SQ difference.
  9. That theory--that I recalled vaguely was debunked--applied strictly to coax cables.
  10. I’m going to a be voice of dissent, Alex. In my opinion, marketing material or technical expositions that don’t have bearing on the product’s operation/configuration/installation don’t have a room in the User Guide. Buyers don’t require any persuasion. They’ve made the purchase, so you’re preaching to the choir. And, in our day and age of “get to the point”, they’re likely not inclined to be bothered with information that isn’t relevant to the product’s operation. Put differently, it can be argued that you’re unnecessarily tasking the readers with sorting out the substance. Personally, I’d go over the document again, and make it much tighter and germane. One man’s opinion.
  11. I'm not addressing you directly, but no one should fret too much. 30 day money-back allows one to test and validate the product"s efficacy with only the shipping cost at stake.
  12. R1200CL has given you a good advise. John S. mentions the cables to and from the ER. If I recall correctly, CAT6, but nothing special,. it shouldn't be grounded from the ER to the target (meaning, avoid metallic RJ45). In general, exotic digital cables offer no sonic advantage, but certainly lighten your wallet, some costing more than the ER itself...Still, some people swear by them, but mostly fail every AB/X. I'd say, get a well constructed bulk CAT6, a bag of RJ45 terminators and plastic boots, a crimp tool and teach yourself how to put those cables together. Hint: super easy! The cables will come out inexpensive, cut to size and boost your pride of ownership. ** Out of respect to this thread, no reply to any proponent of high-end cables **
  13. Your story touched me. Feel your pain...But it was a race against time. No second to waste, not a move too many. Whoever drew first remained standing.
  14. I can't speak on behalf of Alex, of course, but I don't see any reason why he couldn't dispatch one 50ohm unit to the UK. I suggest you send him an email. He's very good at replying.
  15. You can order the ER with 50 ohm connector. Alex will keep on hand a few units to which the connector isn't soldered. He'll perform the soldering job himself. As for the reason the default BNC is 75 ohm, you can search this thread for answers. It's all spelled out (as his commitment to offer 50 ohm on a case basis).
  16. I think Alex is off for a week. Let me share what I know: 1. 10HZ Ref clock (this is well established in this thread. You can do a search). 2. BNC 50 Ohm. (As far as I know, they're distinct from their 75 Ohm brethren).
  17. I tell you what, let's kindly have Alex keep the price at $625 for people who work hard for their money and whose budget is tight. Anyone else who's is highly appreciative of Uptone's product can send Alex any additional amount they fancy. Would that work for you?
  18. Hi Paul, I've successfully dimmed and lit them on many a time. See a photo of my cascade in a "stealth mode." From my experience, the user guide isn't accurate in that regard. It actually takes pressing buttons in sequence not simultaneously. Now, I'm away from my system and I haven't executed the sequence for a while, so I may be misleading you. But as far as I recall, you press one of the buttons, and while keeping it down, you press the other button. It doesn't take long to get the hang of it. BTW, I currently use AES all throughout. I used a 2 meter SPDIF cable to feed the first MC3+USB when my steamer was DigiOne, and the EMI from my other gear killed the sound. Only shortening the cable resolved the issue.
  19. A last word of advice, I'd stay clear of any product with DAC functionality (Matrix Element-X mentioned above is one example; Naim NDX is another). Not that those are bad products--far from it--but you pay for unneeded functionality. You'd probably get a better bang for the buck with a dedicated streamer.
  20. A far superior stand-alone streamer would be the Aries G1. It cost twice though...Personally, I opted for an Auralic product, and after the initial jolt of financial pain have been nothing but happy. Another approach is a computer based server. That is, If you can find a good software to remotely to operate the computer over your phone or tablet. If you want to covert the USB signal to either AES or SPDIF, I have a fantastic solution, although not conventional: mindDPS U-DIO8. The sound quality is very high, and it costs only $400, which is far below most converters. The DB25 cable is cumbersome, but for $40 you can order a custom cable with only one node. If that' something of interest to you, PM me and I'll explain farther.
  21. Olaf, I believe this is your best chain: G1|(AES) --> Mutec MC3+USB| (AES) --> Mytek Brookly Dac+ --> Headphones It's the shortest, most efficient, using the best available protocol under this scenario. Next for the clock: A. You can feed the Brooklyn with the word clock from the Mutech. I believe both are 75ohm. Whether the MC3+ has a better clock than the Brooklyn is subject to research. B. Mutech clock cannot feed your SOTM (I suppose it has the clock board installed). That board expects a REF10 signal, such as the OPT13. However, adapters are far from optimal so your results may vary. C. Alternatively, you can feed the MC3+ with the signal from the OPT13, which will affect both the MC3+ and the Brooklyn if you end yo feed it with the word clock from the MC3+. Again, employing an adapter may not be optimal. You can't do both C and D, because the OPT13 has only one output. Here again, I'm glad for choosing the REF10: 8 outputs some which are 50ohm and others 75ohm. Good luck!
  22. As far as I know the DAC’s external clock input is primarily for studio work, where multiple devices should be synchronized for the purpose of music production. But of course, I’m a dwarf among giants here, not in any position to argue with Ed Meitner about the merits of a short clock line. Still, via circuitous route, I’d like to offer an idea for Alex and John. I know firsthand that a stack of re-clockers tethered to a 10HZ ref clock, boosts the SQ in a notable way. Not only does it minimize jitter, but it also reduces phase noise. (the stack isn’t a panacea, though: use a lousy source and the improved SQ is still lousy; with a great source, the SQ is brilliant). Now, if the moat concept is indeed is the ultimate slayer of phase noise, why not build a device that accepts SPDIF/AES input (XLR/BNC/Topslink), takes it through a “cleansing” moat and outputs the same exact format? (Yes, it doesn’t have to be a converter). The signal into the DAC will be nearly free of artifact contamination and thus the close to nirvana. This SignalRegen will render my stack obsolete for a frication of the cost. If I’m going a limb here, sorry for wasting your time: I’m in deep over my head here
  23. 1) Nice of you to presume that many folks don't understand clocks. 2) It's been explained many a time that the BNC connection is built-in to the chip, so allowing external clock is trivial both in terms of cost and labor. Further, the competing product in the marketplace offers that same feature, so why not compete head-to-head, to the benefit of people like you, who do understand the value of an external clock?
  24. The enclosure has been mentioned many a time here: Identical to the LPS-1.2
  25. Does anyone know whether the AES signal is checksummed by the U-dio8? That is, there's CRC logic inside to ensure signal integrity, and retransmit if necessary? (SPDIF doesn't of course).
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