Jump to content

TheAttorney

Members
  • Content Count

    175
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About TheAttorney

  • Rank
    Sophomore Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    UK

Recent Profile Visitors

1596 profile views
  1. Of around 10 various audiophile fuses I've owned, one has blown as follows after being in use for a few months... My SR Blue failed in my PH SR7 when driving low power digital-only components (mR, IR and Chord m-scaler). All components had been on for several hours when the fuse blew and, in general, the SR7 is left powered 24/7. The Blue fuse was same rating as stock (3.15A slow blow). So, a fuse that should be able to handle around 700w continuous power failed with a load I estimate to be under 40w. The UK dealer did accept my explanation and gave a free replacement - this time I up-rated to 4A. This worked fine up to the point I upgraded it to SR Orange, which I further up-rated to 5A. I had no qualms in that extra up-rating because... The older bespoke SR7's do not have protection circuitry, because at the time Paul found that all protection circuits degraded SQ. And one of the most likely accidents is to short the output plug when messing about with cables or adjusting/measuring voltage output. When this happens, the SR7 will dutifully try to output infinite current into the zero load and within a tiny fraction of a second the regular will blow - well before the fuse has even realised there's a problem. So in such designs, the slow blow fuse is useless (although possibly of some value in other types of equipment/supply error situations). This probably does not apply to the newer T models with built in protection circuits. BTW, the SR Orange definitely sounds better than the Blue, even though I was already impressed with the Blue.
  2. I also have Euphony/Stylus on Optane and ramroot Apacer RAM. And songs buffered in RAM. And music files stored onto a directly attached USB thumb drive (my files are all redbook FLAC, so they all fit). Once the music files are buffered into RAM, I've not noticed any difference in SQ whether or not the thumb drive is removed from the NUC server, although to be fair, I didn't compare that hard because I so didn't want to keep removing the thumb drive, so it's stays permanently connected. Furthermore, I no longer bother to cache the music files from thumb drive to Optane - because there's no noticeable real world speed difference buffering an album from Optane compared to buffering from thumb drive (USB 3.0 thumb drive Read speeds are about 10x faster than Write - still slower than Optane of course, but the difference isn't noticeable in practice with a redbook FLAC album). Most likely the difference would be much more obvious with much larger HD music files. As an aside, I did notice a minor incremental SQ boost when I added a newly updated ifi iSilencer+ between thumb drive and USB socket. And noticed a larger incremental SQ boost when the iSilencer+ was added in the USB signal path, which was surprising because I already had top quality USB cables and an ISORegen in that signal path, yet the iSilencer+ still gave a worthwhile improvement for its modest price of £49. So it's not clear if the iSilencer+ is specifically reducing noise from the thumb drive or just generally reducing noise in the USB circuits (it's a parallel noise filter, with passive caps for HF, plus active noise cancellation circuit for lower frequencies).
  3. Did this cable come bundled with the server? As far as I can tell, there's no USB or optical outputs, which seems rather restrictive.
  4. My understanding is that this is simply about choosing the minimum RAM required to reliably handle a wide range of use cases, which probably gets more critical when integrating Roon and HQP. And outputting an error message if available RAM is less than that limit. I'm guessing that Željko made some adjustments in limit checking for this last release, but didn't take into account the small number of minimalist users. The "fix", I guess, was simply to re-adjust the limit checker. So for standalone Stylus at least, I see no reason why 4GB RAM should not continue to be acceptable . There is no loss in functionality (cover art etc) and there is still well over 1GB spare RAM for queue buffering etc. I can't see this changing unless Željko one day announces some major new feature that requires much more RAM.
  5. Željko remotely fixed my RAM limit issue very quickly (and on a Sunday) once I had activated the remote control, This is the first time I've used this feature - seems very useful to get remote control access without the user needing to run any 3rd party remote desktop type of product. Just click the red RC button to toggle RC on and off. I continue to be impressed that a measly 4GB RAM is enough to run standalone Stylus in ramroot, with well over 1GB spare for queue buffering - enough to load several redbook albums. Makes the 2 x 48GB Taiko Extreme look a touch... extreme 🙂. My understanding is that the next update will have its RAM limits (re)adjusted to allow for minimalists like me. Anyway, prior to the fix, I spent last night listening in non-ramroot mode for the first time in ages - and the resulting rather "digital" presentation reminded me that ramroot is definitely worthwhile, at least in my setup.
  6. Click on the version number, under Settings -> System tab I've raised a support ticket on this new release because 4GB RAM is no longer enough to enable ramroot, I was previously able use ramroot plus up to 1GB spare for ram queue buffering. Hopefully an oversight to be resolved. Everything else looks fine (I use standalone Stylus only). Better news is that "previous version" has been updated to be the very last version 20200430, instead of a much older version. I guess that is what caused the longer than usual update time.
  7. My understanding was that Ramroot is not supported in trial mode. Whatever, with full license, I've not seen any difference, between ramroot and not, in the handling of internal or external drives. What I have noticed, ramroot or not, is that mounting/dismounting drives is not particularly intuative. Maybe because I've never bothered to read the manual carefully, or maybe it's the techie linux naming structure, but there sometimes has to be a bit of faffing around to get a new drive, or remounted drive, to be fully active and recognised in the library.
  8. I raise a support ticket directly from the Stylus app (under Settings). And usually get a response within hours. Overall, I rate support very highly on the few times I've used it. Zelijko is quite amenable to ad hoc enhancement requests, as long as they are sensible and practical.
  9. As I haven't spotted any other answers to this, I can provide a partial answer based on my particular setup, which is internal Optane boot drive, USB thumb drive for local music files, and no streaming services: Ramroot, in its default mode (library stays on the boot drive), plays local music files with no loss of functionality compared to non-Ramroot. It plays music in exactly the same way. The only consideration is that you need to hit the "save fs to disc" button if you want to make permanent system changes, such as core isolation settings - otherwise those system changes will be reverted on next boot. I think Ramroot gave a very worthwhile SQ boost compared to Optane drive, so the improvement over USB drive should be even greater.
  10. I haven't tried for 2 reasons: The dealer is a 2.5 hour drive each way. And I've self-imposed an upgrade lock-down for a while and just enjoy listening to music without endless burn-in cycles etc. So I'll wait until the Mini becomes available (which seems to be months away) and do it all in one go - and hopefully bring back the chosen one or two for a home loan. I do hope I'll like the MU1 a lot because it seems to be the smallest and lightest of the 3, as well as the lowest cost (with proviso that the Mini specification is just guesswork at the moment). The main downside of the Phoenix for me is its size - should I choose that route. I can hide my IR in the spaghetti behind the main components, but the Phoenix is yet another main component, so it will have to give a substantial SQ improvement over the IR to justify swapping over.
  11. Well, I don't have quite the same components, but I did go from... 1. NUC > Lush^2 > IsoRegen > Lush^2 > HMS to 2. NUC > 2020 > IsoRegen > Lush^2 > HMS to 3. NUC > 2020 > IsoRegen > 2020 > HMS And found the improvements were in the same ballpark (in both sound signature and quantity) for both jumps. So 2020 did pair well with Lush^2, but a 2nd 2020 was better still. The Lush^2 is still a great cable at its price point - I preferred it to the recently mentioned TQ Silver Diamond, even though the latter was much more than double the price. As always, YMMV. Back to the Phoenix... I've now stopped tweaking my semi-DIY NUC-based system, and am waiting for the Taiko Extreme Mini to be released. At which point I'm aiming to compare (a) Replacing IR with Phoenix vs (b) Replacing NUC and IR with a super server and no regenerator (If the super server can still be improved by a regenerator, then it's not super enough for me). Amazingly, I've found a UK dealer that stocks Innuous, Taiko and Grimm. So I should be able to compare the Mini vs Statement vs MU1 to find my preferred super server. And then compare that to the much cheaper solution of just getting the Phoenix. My overall objective is to KISS and Ditch-The-Spaghetti, so ultimate SQ is not the only consideration, so it will be interesting to see how this all turns out. Will probably take several months...
  12. Careful here.... The standard rollback mechanism rolls back to the last major release - in my case 20190918. This means that you'd lose all the wonderful features incrementally introduced in the last 9 months. The rollback function appears to be an emergency step should you be having catastrophic issues with a new release. I haven't had a notification since my current 20200430, which most users appear to be on. So flkin may be in a minority that got accidentally sent a WIP/Beta release. But unless there is something terribly wrong with it, I'd probably just wait for the next update rather than roll back. I guess you could probably subsequently do an update after the rollback, but seems like a lot of faffing about for a non-emergency situation.
  13. Very helpful photos @elan120 Two open comments/questions: 1. Is it better to twist the wires closely together and then put the twisted pair inside a single cotton tube? This more tightly couples the twisted wires, but I don't know if that is good, bad or indifferent. Relates to my next point... 2. Following a Sean Jacobs suggestion, Nenon now tightly couples the two wires as a straight parallel pair. So a single cotton tube is the only option for such a parallel pair configuration.
  14. A while back, I had mentioned that my star-quad Neotech DC cable sounded distinctly better without JSSG360. At that time, I was not aware of cotton tubing. I now understand that it's best to have some space between signal wires and screen (the experts here can probably explain why) and that is what the cotton tubing can provide. The spacing is a possible reason why some shieldings are more successful than others. For those dipping their toes into DIY DC cables, much of the faff is in the JSSG360 part. But you could split the work as I did with my 3rd cable: First build the cable including the cotton tubing and then just live with that for a few weeks (or forever if you're happy with the sound). Then you can slide the JSSG360 parts over the DC plug, without having to de-solder anything. I wrap PTFE tape as the insulation between the 2 braided shields and this saves having to get a heat shrink gun ("gas" PTFE tape is thicker and easier to handle than plumbers tape). A good, and cheapest, supplier of Mundorf, especially in the UK, is hificollective.co.uk. £56+VAT/metre for the 1.5mm, and £30+VAT/metre for the 1.0mm. HFC also do most of the other parts needed, like cotton tubing, silver solder etc, although strangely not so good on DC plugs. My 0.5M length 1.5mm Mundorf cost me slightly less than the same length of ready made PH 6A silver, although it has to be said that Paul's soldering and construction skills are far greater than my feeble efforts - my Mundorf did sound better though 🙂, even the much cheaper 1.0mm version. HFC also stock Neotech and several others. The Mundorf silver/gold, rather like my recent Sablon 2020 USB cable, just sound so completely "right" that I have no intention of ever looking for anything else. But if I did 😈, then I'd be rather curious about the various Neotech silver, silver/gold and especially the "rectangular" silver wires.
  15. I've now replaced all 3 of my DC cables out of my PH SR7 with these Mundorfs. The first one was twisted pair, as per Nenon's original recommendations and, even from cold, this knocked my previous DIY star-quad Neotech copper (4x18AWG) out of the park - to be fair, the Neotech had an el cheapo screw-terminal barrel plug, which wouldn't have done it any favours compared to the Oyaide gold plated plug on the Mundorfs. The second twisted pair Mundorf (from cold) beat my PH 6A silver (twisted triple, 3 x approx 19AWG, one used as screen wire). Not as dramatic an improvement as against the Neotech, but still a good step upwards. For the 3rd pair, I tried the thinner 1.0mm dia (18 AWG) as a tight parallel pair (not twisted) as per Nenon's later recommendations. This time, with no JSSG360 screening. This also beat my PH 6A silver. By this stage I was getting burned out by burn-in fatigue (the Mundorfs sound good from cold, but need at least 2 weeks before they suddenly blossom). So all sorts of variables come into play over several weeks and I could no longer accurately quantify or relate how these improvements compared to the previous swaps. I later added JSSG360 to the 3rd pair. This possibly made a small improvement, but hard to quantify. These were just 0.4M long, so maybe screening not so crucial? So, I have no doubt these Mundorfs are fantastic. They have no downside in that they increase detail and dynamics whilst simultaneously decreasing glare and brightness. But I don't really know how beneficial are the following: 1. Value of JSSG360 screening for shorter lengths 2. Difference between the 1.5mm dia Mundorf vs the much cheaper 1.0mm 3. Difference between twisted pair and parallel pair
×
×
  • Create New...