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TheAttorney

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  1. My understanding was that Ramroot is not supported in trial mode. Whatever, with full license, I've not seen any difference, between ramroot and not, in the handling of internal or external drives. What I have noticed, ramroot or not, is that mounting/dismounting drives is not particularly intuative. Maybe because I've never bothered to read the manual carefully, or maybe it's the techie linux naming structure, but there sometimes has to be a bit of faffing around to get a new drive, or remounted drive, to be fully active and recognised in the library.
  2. I raise a support ticket directly from the Stylus app (under Settings). And usually get a response within hours. Overall, I rate support very highly on the few times I've used it. Zelijko is quite amenable to ad hoc enhancement requests, as long as they are sensible and practical.
  3. As I haven't spotted any other answers to this, I can provide a partial answer based on my particular setup, which is internal Optane boot drive, USB thumb drive for local music files, and no streaming services: Ramroot, in its default mode (library stays on the boot drive), plays local music files with no loss of functionality compared to non-Ramroot. It plays music in exactly the same way. The only consideration is that you need to hit the "save fs to disc" button if you want to make permanent system changes, such as core isolation settings - otherwise those system changes will be reverted on next boot. I think Ramroot gave a very worthwhile SQ boost compared to Optane drive, so the improvement over USB drive should be even greater.
  4. I haven't tried for 2 reasons: The dealer is a 2.5 hour drive each way. And I've self-imposed an upgrade lock-down for a while and just enjoy listening to music without endless burn-in cycles etc. So I'll wait until the Mini becomes available (which seems to be months away) and do it all in one go - and hopefully bring back the chosen one or two for a home loan. I do hope I'll like the MU1 a lot because it seems to be the smallest and lightest of the 3, as well as the lowest cost (with proviso that the Mini specification is just guesswork at the moment). The main downside of the Phoenix for me is its size - should I choose that route. I can hide my IR in the spaghetti behind the main components, but the Phoenix is yet another main component, so it will have to give a substantial SQ improvement over the IR to justify swapping over.
  5. Well, I don't have quite the same components, but I did go from... 1. NUC > Lush^2 > IsoRegen > Lush^2 > HMS to 2. NUC > 2020 > IsoRegen > Lush^2 > HMS to 3. NUC > 2020 > IsoRegen > 2020 > HMS And found the improvements were in the same ballpark (in both sound signature and quantity) for both jumps. So 2020 did pair well with Lush^2, but a 2nd 2020 was better still. The Lush^2 is still a great cable at its price point - I preferred it to the recently mentioned TQ Silver Diamond, even though the latter was much more than double the price. As always, YMMV. Back to the Phoenix... I've now stopped tweaking my semi-DIY NUC-based system, and am waiting for the Taiko Extreme Mini to be released. At which point I'm aiming to compare (a) Replacing IR with Phoenix vs (b) Replacing NUC and IR with a super server and no regenerator (If the super server can still be improved by a regenerator, then it's not super enough for me). Amazingly, I've found a UK dealer that stocks Innuous, Taiko and Grimm. So I should be able to compare the Mini vs Statement vs MU1 to find my preferred super server. And then compare that to the much cheaper solution of just getting the Phoenix. My overall objective is to KISS and Ditch-The-Spaghetti, so ultimate SQ is not the only consideration, so it will be interesting to see how this all turns out. Will probably take several months...
  6. Careful here.... The standard rollback mechanism rolls back to the last major release - in my case 20190918. This means that you'd lose all the wonderful features incrementally introduced in the last 9 months. The rollback function appears to be an emergency step should you be having catastrophic issues with a new release. I haven't had a notification since my current 20200430, which most users appear to be on. So flkin may be in a minority that got accidentally sent a WIP/Beta release. But unless there is something terribly wrong with it, I'd probably just wait for the next update rather than roll back. I guess you could probably subsequently do an update after the rollback, but seems like a lot of faffing about for a non-emergency situation.
  7. Very helpful photos @elan120 Two open comments/questions: 1. Is it better to twist the wires closely together and then put the twisted pair inside a single cotton tube? This more tightly couples the twisted wires, but I don't know if that is good, bad or indifferent. Relates to my next point... 2. Following a Sean Jacobs suggestion, Nenon now tightly couples the two wires as a straight parallel pair. So a single cotton tube is the only option for such a parallel pair configuration.
  8. A while back, I had mentioned that my star-quad Neotech DC cable sounded distinctly better without JSSG360. At that time, I was not aware of cotton tubing. I now understand that it's best to have some space between signal wires and screen (the experts here can probably explain why) and that is what the cotton tubing can provide. The spacing is a possible reason why some shieldings are more successful than others. For those dipping their toes into DIY DC cables, much of the faff is in the JSSG360 part. But you could split the work as I did with my 3rd cable: First build the cable including the cotton tubing and then just live with that for a few weeks (or forever if you're happy with the sound). Then you can slide the JSSG360 parts over the DC plug, without having to de-solder anything. I wrap PTFE tape as the insulation between the 2 braided shields and this saves having to get a heat shrink gun ("gas" PTFE tape is thicker and easier to handle than plumbers tape). A good, and cheapest, supplier of Mundorf, especially in the UK, is hificollective.co.uk. £56+VAT/metre for the 1.5mm, and £30+VAT/metre for the 1.0mm. HFC also do most of the other parts needed, like cotton tubing, silver solder etc, although strangely not so good on DC plugs. My 0.5M length 1.5mm Mundorf cost me slightly less than the same length of ready made PH 6A silver, although it has to be said that Paul's soldering and construction skills are far greater than my feeble efforts - my Mundorf did sound better though 🙂, even the much cheaper 1.0mm version. HFC also stock Neotech and several others. The Mundorf silver/gold, rather like my recent Sablon 2020 USB cable, just sound so completely "right" that I have no intention of ever looking for anything else. But if I did 😈, then I'd be rather curious about the various Neotech silver, silver/gold and especially the "rectangular" silver wires.
  9. I've now replaced all 3 of my DC cables out of my PH SR7 with these Mundorfs. The first one was twisted pair, as per Nenon's original recommendations and, even from cold, this knocked my previous DIY star-quad Neotech copper (4x18AWG) out of the park - to be fair, the Neotech had an el cheapo screw-terminal barrel plug, which wouldn't have done it any favours compared to the Oyaide gold plated plug on the Mundorfs. The second twisted pair Mundorf (from cold) beat my PH 6A silver (twisted triple, 3 x approx 19AWG, one used as screen wire). Not as dramatic an improvement as against the Neotech, but still a good step upwards. For the 3rd pair, I tried the thinner 1.0mm dia (18 AWG) as a tight parallel pair (not twisted) as per Nenon's later recommendations. This time, with no JSSG360 screening. This also beat my PH 6A silver. By this stage I was getting burned out by burn-in fatigue (the Mundorfs sound good from cold, but need at least 2 weeks before they suddenly blossom). So all sorts of variables come into play over several weeks and I could no longer accurately quantify or relate how these improvements compared to the previous swaps. I later added JSSG360 to the 3rd pair. This possibly made a small improvement, but hard to quantify. These were just 0.4M long, so maybe screening not so crucial? So, I have no doubt these Mundorfs are fantastic. They have no downside in that they increase detail and dynamics whilst simultaneously decreasing glare and brightness. But I don't really know how beneficial are the following: 1. Value of JSSG360 screening for shorter lengths 2. Difference between the 1.5mm dia Mundorf vs the much cheaper 1.0mm 3. Difference between twisted pair and parallel pair
  10. Based on other posts, my start point power supply for a NUC would be the Paul Hynes SR4T 19V, with the best and shortest DC cables you can find. You may need a beefier p/s depending on how hard you will be driving the NUC with DSP and upsampling. I drive my NUC 7i7DN very lightly at only 8W total power consumption. PH provide good DC cable options, but if you don't mind making your own, I would not hesitate to go for Nenon's recommended Mundorf Silver/Golds. There are other well recommended p/s alternatives to the PH (that seem better than HDPLEX), that often crop up in various threads, but I have no experience of them. With my own limited journey, I've found that everything matters and each tweak is cumulative. So getting a great endpoint does not negate any upstream improvements, such as server RAM (and vice versa). Part of "the journey" is deciding which is the most effective order of change. I don't know how critical a USB cable would be between HDD and NUC, but I guess not quite as critical as in the signal path. The iSilencer+ could well help isolate noise from the HDD.
  11. Whilst I think the iSilencer+ is good value at £49, and should incrementally improve any typical NUC (I have 3 on mine!), I recommend you sort out the bigger ticket items first, including, but not limited to: Power supply, DC cable from power supply, AC cable, USB cable, USB regenerator, Apacer industrial memory - plus Endpoint, ethernet cable and switch if going the networking route. Sadly, the really good versions of each of these will typically cost much, much more than an iSilencer+, but will give bigger gains. It's a long journey 🙂
  12. Maybe, but these of course will not be the master versions of your music files. Also, these will be mostly be used in read-only mode (my understanding is that it is the constant re-writing actions that most likely causes failures in any SSD device). I've always used jriver to maintain my master music file library on my laptop, including ripping CDs when I buy them. Then I copy the same file structure to my various music players. This automatically gives me several copies of the library for security. Each music app will automatically load/update the identical file structure into its own proprietary library system. The big advantage of this is that I'm not tied into the proprietary library structure of individual music apps like Roon, so I can change apps in the future with minimal fuss. Anyway, my suggestion was that it's the simplest and cheapest way to get started with your new NUC. It's tiny in size and requires no cables, power supplies or networking, Once you get used to the NUC, you can then move onto a different drive solution - and you'll have a ready made benchmark to compare the SQ of your new chosen drive 🙂 I should add that I've recently added an ifi iSilencer+ USB filter between NUC and thumb drive, which has incrementally improved SQ, and adding a iSilencer+ in the signal path between NUC and DAC gave a bigger incremental SQ boost, but that's another story.
  13. Why not start with the simplest and cheapest possible filestore solution: A thumb drive plugged into one of the NUC's USB ports. It's what I use on a permanent basis, but then my redbook FLAC files don't take up much space (256GB is enough for me). I use internal Optane as boot drive and cache. In practice, with Euphony's cache-to-RAM options, I've not noticed any significant SQ issues whether or not the thumb drive is plugged in when playing music. Just an idea to get you started. You can move onto bigger filestore options later without having spent much money.
  14. Fair enough, but my point still stands. My understanding of the text is that Sean has chosen the very best possible caps, cost no object, for the DC4 regulators. This implies that he feels the caps in the regulator are the most important caps that are worth upgrading to the highest possible level - and these are not the Mundorfs. I'm not trying to pick a fight between different makes of caps. I'm just trying to better understand what separates the DC4 from DC3 and why the DC4 is so much more expensive. Or maybe it's just a case of different cap designs being better suited to different jobs?
  15. Sean's ultimate DC4 uses different caps. From his website... "The new DC4 regulator design uses the very best components - we use a full set of Vishay Z-foil "naked" resistors for the regulator section, and extremely low noise resistors for the (non-critical) CX section and for one filter network of the regulator itself. We also now use Vishay bulk film capacitors for all decoupling duties, as well as some very special Audio Note KAISEI capacitors for all the important regulator module capacitors. These are a relatively new capacitor, designed by the same team behind the legendary Black Gate capacitors. The CX module uses the same Nichicon KZ "MUSE" capacitors as the DC3 design, as we found that the AN capacitors made no difference at all here." The above implies that Sean thinks these new caps are better than the Mundorfs. In my less sane moments, I've been considering getting a 3-rail DC4 to replace DAVE's built-in SMPS, as per Triode-User's review. If I do go down that route, I would try very hard to get Sean to up-front replace his Neotech copper wires with the Mundorf Silver/Golds - at least in all places after the regulator.
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