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TheAttorney

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  1. Could you elaborate a bit more about this please? You say you use PCM mostly. Does that include standard redbook? Any DSP involved? So Roon is effectively headless and controlled only by a remote tablet/PC/phone? And direct USB cable connection from server to DAC? With any USB cleaner/reclocker in the path? I have a lifetime roon license that is currently gathering dust. So I'm hoping that roon will one day catch up on SQ, but I'm not holding my breath - with the roon team seemingly not accepting that there's a problem that needs fixing, and a very vocal, audiophile-bashing, bits-is-bits brigade who jump in at every opportunity on the roon forums.
  2. I don't think you're misreading the picture - it's a brand new configuraturation, with no shield connected to ground, or JSSG360cubed as lmitche dubbed it I'd also like to know this, as I'm not inclined to search out and buy additional jumpers. Also, although I know common sense doesn't always apply to this game 🙃, but I just can't see how the jumper placement on pins 5 and 6 could possibly affect anything - as they are completely unused in this example and not connected to anything else.
  3. I'm curious how far you've gone with experimenting with jumper positions. E.g. Are you saying that jumper on pin 1 and leads on pins 2,3,4 sound better than leads on 1,2,3 and jumper on 4? And 2 jumpers on pins 5,6 sound better than a single jumper bridging 5 and 6? What sort of differences are you hearing? And how does that compare with no jumpers at all on the spare pins? I put aside my scepticism to briefly try some different jumper positions, but so far I've not come to any conclusions. I.e. I have nor yet decided if any changes I'm hearing are real or imaginary. I'll need my system to settle down for longer to get a stable reference point (still with [W}B-Y [W}B-Y as favourite) Unfortunately, it's impossible to try your new personal favourite with a Blaxius^2D.
  4. Where did you get the instructions for changing this feature in Euphony? I haven't seen any. Does core isolation in effect switch off hyperthreading? I'd like to give that a try, but it's much easier for me to change this in Euphony than in BIOS. I don't see the point of the other new feature - CPU burn-in. It drives the cores to 100% usage, at 3 levls of aggressiveness, but IMO the CPU already heats up more than enough in turbo mode. This enhancement request probably came in from another forum. I wonder what the rationale was?
  5. Short of an un-boxing video, I'm as sure as I can be that my B^2D arrived as I had stated. Knowing that a 3rd party built the cable, it's most likely that on at least one occasion he interpereted the printed-at-the-time notation of A:[W]B-Y-R, B:[W]Y-R as no B wire at the destination end. So in effect we were both right, and so honour for both sides has been maintained. Phew! Now I'll quickly lower my head back below the parapet 🙂 Remember that this started with kurb1980 saying this was the best setting yet for his Lush^2, and he's been doing this for several months, so it's a good sign. OTOH, lmitche wasn't convinced on first pass. We just need a few more impressions from others. One thing I have noticed is that everything else still matters. E.g. Whether of not I have a ground wire connected to DAVE. To get the most impact, all planets still need to be in perfect alignment.
  6. Okay, I'm going to stick my neck out again and challenge the established expert by saying that I think Peter has got it wrong. I'm pretty sure that my Blaxius had arrived as I had written (i.e. the R and Y wires were connected to B (ground) on the A end, but not connected to ground on the B end). Unfortunately I didn't take a photo at the time. Anyway, whilst Peter was correcting the [W]B notation, I'm guessing that somehow wires got crossed and he's ended up with a slightly different variation than before. For me it's a moot point because my new fave (TANF 🙂) is clearly better than what arrived. I'm fairly certain I did try the BRY at both ends when I first got the cables and noticed no obvious difference, although everything was new to me at that point and so I was possibly not very receptive to incremental differences. I will try the BRY BRY option, but won't be able to for a couple of days.
  7. I’ve now finished my first, and hopefully last, set of Blaxius^2D configuration tests. My objective was to find, as quickly as possible, if the default (shipped from Feb 2019) could be improved upon. So it was a rapid-fire A/B kind of test, which may not have done justice to some of the settings and I’ve probably made some errors of judgement. In which case tough, I don’t have the time or patience to spend hours/days on this. If any setting didn’t WOW me, it got immediately dropped. So as always, YMMV. I tested around 14 variants, particularly those that others have liked. So there may be a label like PNF, or another users name if they’ve liked that setting before (these typically are Lush users because there are so many more of them). What works on Lush doesn’t necessarily work on Blaxius. I sometimes give a brief comment of what I noticed about a particular setting. No comment means nothing struck me as being remarkable, or I was just getting bored. Regarding my simplified notation, I’ve kept the square brackets for Blaxius^2D, but other users just need to ignore the brackets and it all still works. [W]BR [W]BR Blax def Sep 2018. Noticeably worse than the later default. [W]BRY [W]B&RY Blax def Feb 2019. Really, really good. [W]BRY [W]B lmitche fave. Ok, but thin, where’s the bass? [W]B [W]BR lasker98 fave. A touch bright. [W]BRY [W]BR Lush def. A touch splashy, unfocused. [W]B&RY [W]B PNF. Good, worth a retry [W]B&RY [W]B&RY JSSG360. Smooth, but flat, boring. Retry for bright systems? [W]B&RY [W]BR Sort of Ok? [W]B&RY [W]BRY [W]BR [W]BR Boom & tizz [W]BR [W]B Smooth, but unfocused Out of these, I retried the Blax Feb 2019, PNF and JSSG360, and of these The Blax Feb 2019 won quite easily in the end. Which was kinda disappointing because that was the one I started with, so the pin configurability has proved to be redundant for me. I was just about to publish my findings when Kurb1980 came out with his new recommendation, so I tried that plus a couple of close variants: [W]BY [W]BY kurb1980 Jul 2019. WOW, but too much presence/lower treble? [W]BY [W]B kurb1980 Jan 2019. Good, but less WOW than latest. [W]BY [W]B&RY Good, but less WOW than latest. Getting bored, so stop now. I’ve lived with [W]BY [W]BY for a couple of days and, whether cable burn-in or brain burn-in, the low-treble peakiness seems to have disappeared and I find no downsides at all. So, in conclusion, the best SQ in my system is… [W]BY [W]BY kurb1980 Jul 2019 And honorable 2nd place is… [W]BRY [W]B&RY Blax def Feb 2019
  8. If you're talking about my simplification proposal, then Peter's original notations made logical sense, but in practice have often been confusing to follow, especially when several configurations are being discussed in the same post. No need to change the original paperwork because I haven't changed the fundamental logic - just removed the unnecessary clutter of dashes and punctuation - so that you can more easily "see the wood for the trees". Hopefully this will become obvious when I shortly post over a dozen different configurations. Newbie's will still need the original to spell it out, but from then on, they should find the shorthand version quicker and easier. If you're talking about lmitche's complicated version, well, I'm still not sure if it's all just a joke, but even if it is, at least he has thought about it to unambiguously describe the full picture of every possible combination. But he hasn't changed Peter's original style, he has extended it to include impact of the jumpers - whether or not this will be necessary remains to be seen, but at least one person reckons the exact jumper positioning is important. I very much hope that it isn't, but will keep an open mind.
  9. Your post may well have been in jest, but I just want to bring up a disconnect in the understanding of how JSSG360 translates to Lush: I think it is BW & YR at both ends. And I think this is how Peter sees it too. It's in his diagram in the first post in this thread. You describe it as WY at both ends, which is completely different, but at least now explains your earlier comment on kurb's photo.
  10. Er... No. The photos don't make clear that the Red cables are not connected to any pin, but that isn't the main point of my post... I've recently completed a rapid-fire test of around a dozen configurations on my Blaxius^2D's between HMS and DAVE and was about to share my findings when I decided to give the @kurb1980 recommendation a go. I tried to keep to the exact pin/black tab connections as for kurb's Lush, but of course there is no white cable with the Blaxius^2D, so it can't be exactly the same. Well, in terms of detail/focus/impact, this setting went straight to the top, but with a slight reservation that the presence region might be a touch overhyped. I haven't yet decided if this presence thing is because the extra clarity is faithfully showing up the recording techniques of close-miked female vocals, or if this is a real issue. I'll live with it for a few days, then compare against my previous best and report back. In the meantime, I think kurb's recommendation is very worthwhile a try. In Blaxius terms it would be... A:[W]BY, B:[W]BY PS. I'm restarting the "Ditch-The-Dash" campaign, as all thoses dashes just gave me dyslexia (and I know I'm not the only one). We could simplify it further to [W]BY [W]BY (with more than 1 space in between). It's never too late to inprove something.
  11. I completely agree, and I wasn't claiming my experience with my particular 7i7DN-based NUC is in any way black and white, just my particular experience with the h/w that I had described in recent posts. I'm a firm advocate of YMMV 🙂 Also, my USB comments were based on a 256 GB stick. If your friend had issues with much greater capacities, then that is something that requires further investigation for anyone who is thinking of going down that track. I suspect this will also vary with different motherboards etc. But for those who have smaller music collections, I still think a USB stick can't be beaten for KISS & DTS - you don't ever have to open up the server, or worry about M.2/PCIE slots, or NAS networking issues etc.
  12. It's not unusual for a trial version of any app not to have the full set of features enabled, and in this case I don't think it matters much because... It's early days in my Optane vs USB stick comparisons, but one thing I can say right now is that any improvements with Optane are tiny compared to getting a top quality power supply, and small compared to, say, getting good quality cabling in your system. Therefore you can get a sufficiently good idea of what Euphony is capable of, even if booting from USB. Yes, Optane boot may be better still, but so are dozens of other tweaks that can be made to yor NUC. BTW, once booting from Optane, I ran a simple test: With Euphony caching (and 100% buffer) enabled, I loaded a few albums from my USB stick into the Euphony play queue, then started playing. Then removed the USB stick from the NUC. I heard no difference in SQ whether or not the USB stick was in place. Which means that a USB stick is a perfectly viable long term solution to store your music files, as long as your collection is small enough to fit (and with 4 x USB slots in a typical NUC, that means 2TB is easily achievable, and even 4TB at a much higher price). My bottom line is that USB drives can be improved upon, but for the purpose of evaluation, there are much more important considerations.
  13. I got diverted by an issue when installing Euphony onto the Optane drive (after purchasing the full license): The install went fine, but I lost my WIFI on booting from Optane. So I had to temporarily rig up all sorts of extension cables to get an ethernet connection to my remote broadband router. I was tearing my hair out because I couldn't see what the problem was, and was not looking forward to persuading Euphony Support to support me on an unsupported feature. Then the solution literally popped up to me with a message saying that I wasn't on the latest version and would I like to get the latest feature upgrade? On upgrade to the latest version (29th May), WIFI worked fine. Phew! Happy Days. The lesson here is that Install won't necessarily install the latest version even though the USB stick I was installing from did have the latest version. Back to CPU frequency. I've found that I can go from Full Throttle to Standby by changing just 1 digit in the Max Frequency setting as below. I find the Standby very useful for significantly dropping both power consumption and CPU/case temperature: This results in the frequency and temperature results below:
  14. Here are some notes from my NUC/Stylus build experience: Introduction: I’ve been using a W10 laptop music server, running Roon (previously JRiver and HQP). Not the greatest H/W start point, but this “stopgap” was considerably improved by the microRendu 1.4 and ISORegen combo, both powered later by PH SR7 (3 x single-regulated rails). And I’ve given up waiting for the dust to settle on the various AS experimental threads to determine which is the best consensus supa dupa server. So time to take the plunge right now. My mantra for the new server is KISS & DTS (Ditch the Spaghetti), whilst still getting substantially improved SQ. Oh, and keep the costs down. So my new server will be resolutely single box. I realise that a low cost KISS & DTS approach isn’t going to achieve the best possible SQ, but I can use this as a learning curve and stepping stone to the biggie supa dupa server in a year or two’s time – and hopefully I won’t even feel it necessary to further upgrade anyway. Maybe “near end-game” will be end-game enough for me? NUC/Stylus installation and setup: The Porcoolpine fanless 7i7DN-based NUC arrived with Ubuntu pre-installed on a 32GB Optane drive (pre-configured as SSD). Considering I was a NUC/linux-newbie, the Euphony installation went better than expected. My start point was that I had a mouse, but no monitor or keyboard, so I plugged the NUC into my TV’s hdmi input to see what would happen and was delighted to find that the BIOS screen has a basic level of GUI – including a virtual keyboard, so I was able to make BIOS changes without having to purchase a dedicated monitor or keyboard (I have no intention of mucking about with BIOS changes every other day). My Porcoolpine included the default WIFI&Bluetooth card with external antenna. I activated WIFI from Euphony’s Expert settings and was again delighted to find that it immediately connected to my broadband/router in another room. Which meant I was immediately able to control Euphony from my laptop. Euphony doesn’t formally support WIFI at this stage – the feature is in Expert settings for users to try at their own risk. This is a great result for me because I now have no switches/extenders/ LAN cables in my system – there are several options here to improve network SQ, but none of them pass the KISS & DTS criteria. The key steps I made: 1. Plug 32GB USB stick into laptop and download Trial Euphony/Stylus onto USB stick 2. Boot Euphony/Stylus into my laptop, with direct USB connection to Hugo M-scaler/DAVE. SQ is OK, but definitely improved by ISORegen, so I keep the IR for all remaining steps 3. Plug USB stick into NUC and reboot 4. Boot-from-USB was ignored, so I connected the NUC to TV and change BIOS to move USB boot priority above Optane drive 5. Whilst in BIOS, check that speedstep and hyperthreading are enabled (they were) 6. Now NUC boots Euphony from USB stick (which is now the “Euphony Drive”) 7. Copy some music files from laptop to Euphony Drive (I can get dozens of my favourite albums onto this 32GB stick) 8. Listen to music for a couple of days. Result: improved detail & dynamics than before, but bit ragged in the higher frequencies. So, it’s promising, but not a clear win 9. Replace stock 19v SMPS with PH SR7’s 19v 7A rail and PH 6A silver DC cable. Result: Absolutely FANTASTIC! Simply better at every possible level, and there’s no going back now. Next steps: 10. Purchase the full Euphony Stylus license and install on the Optane Drive 11. Put my music files onto a 256GB USB stick (all my redbook compressed FLAC files fit easily with room to spare) and directly connect to NUC USB socket . Then compare SQ of files on Optane versus files on USB stick. 12. Do something about the NUC’s DC power socket (see below). 13. Live with this as long as possible and try hard not to succumb to upgrade-itis, unless it conforms to KISS & DTS. So, replacing one cable with a better one is allowed. Adding anything extra will be resisted – especially if that thing requires a power supply. Initial thoughts on Euphony Stylus: No surprise that the UI feels rather clunky after Roon’s, but I’m slowly getting used to it. The album and artist direct links to LAST.FM are not as integrated as Roon’s, but not a bad alternative. E.g. LAST.FM will give me loads more artist photos etc compared to the often-cropped single Roon photo. In Expert settings, you can choose max/min CPU frequency, which doesn’t always work, as others have noted. But it works enough to do this test: Any setting above CPU’s 1.9 Ghz baseline gives you near this CPU’s max frequency of 4.2 Ghz. But setting max frequency to 1.9GHz does set actual frequency to exactly 1.9Ghz. I preferred the more detailed and dynamic max frequency setting. When set to max frequency, the NUC AC power consumption hovers around 15-18W, irrespective of whether music is actually playing. This isn’t very much really (I don’t do any DSP on the server). But if you never switch off your server, and would like some form of standby option, then setting max frequency to 1.9 Ghz reduces power consumption to 6-8W, as well as reducing the NUC temperature. Initial thoughts on Porcoolpine: I’ll post some impressions in due course in the Porcoolpine thread, but for now, this little cutie is all good apart from one issue: The DC input socket requires a not-very-common 3-ish mm ID, 5.5 OD barrel plug. So neither of my existing 2.1 ID and 2.5 ID plugs would fit. Luckily, my old iFi 9V power supply came with a bunch of converter plugs, and one of them successfully converted my 2.1 ID plug to 3-ish ID. But an el cheapo converter plug will do no favours to SQ, so any suggestions of what best to do here? I’d rather not mess up my PH silver DC cable with a non-standard plug because of future flexibility. So my default solution is to replace the NUC DC socket with one suitable for 2.1 ID plug. Another option is to make use of the 7i7DN’s onboard molex 2x2 micro socket in some way, but that would entail drilling a hole into the NUC enclosure.
  15. Incredible as it may sound, I think you've just made it even more compliated than it already was 🙃 I think your first description A:[W]B-Y-R, B:[W]Y-R was correct, as that is how the leads are connected (with B connected at source end and loose at destination). So Y and R are connected to each other and ground at source, but connected only to each other at destination. Nothing wrong with this, because W is always connected as the ground, and it works fine with HMS to DAVE. With your next shipment, you will now link B to Y and R, which is also fine BUT IS DIFFERENT to the Feb 2019 setting, so you will be changing the sound signature of your default, which I don't think you intended. If I've got this wrong, then please, please do a full diagram specifically for the ^2D, so that we can see exactly how the W and B wires relate to each other
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