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carlmart

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  1. But do they have DACs at every Raspberry USB output?
  2. I wonder if someone has had any experience with PiCorePlayer on a Raspberry Pi 3B, connected to a network where the files are on a server. If so, please tell me if you had any problems setting it up.
  3. Of course I'm aware that small productions like what this Intona comes from set a price. We users are left to judge whether the changes (subjective improvement) justify the money we are paying. It would be interesting setting up a comparison between the different isolators around and have people comment on what changes, for the best of course. Though in fact it should be DAC manufacturers who should include isolators on their products, as they would be able to reduce costs down to a minimum.
  4. Maybe I'm too disconnected from what a price should be, but at $370/380 isn't an interface a bit expensive? This isolator costs more than my Topping D50, so something does seem to be wrong.
  5. What LT3045 regulator or power supply are you using and what USB 3.1 gen2 enclosure is that? How do you power a pcie card with an external supply and cut the internal socket power links?
  6. It would be nice to copy/flash the different systems on separate SD cards and see which handles and sounds better. You forgot to mention Squeezebox, probably because you didn't try it. If someone did or is using Squeezebox, please do comment about it.
  7. It's not my intention to convert this thread into "how to assemble a Raspberry", but screen and remote controlling have an important part on the audio setup too, I think. Particularly when we get to the moment on how to select what you are going to play. The suggested official Raspberry 7" touchscreen seems to have just 800 x 480 resolution. Wouldn't this 7" 1024 x 768 screen work better? https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Inch-1024x600-Touch-Screen-HDMI-LCD-Display-with-Case-for-Raspberry-Pi-2-3-B/323398977979?epid=22022660158&hash=item4b4c14c9bb:g:-N4AAOSwTHRbdSrw:rk:40:pf:0 When I asked about the SD format type, I don't remember if it has to be FAT32 or NTFS.
  8. To start with in your choices, that touschcreen + RPi case I find it to be the best. I would prefer it to be metal, but it looks very practical. In fact I was more inclined to a 5" screen, as long as characters and touch points were large enough to read them or handle them. 7" was the next. Just don't like the small screen hey tray to sell you. About the control, I will never, if possible, use a mobile phone for it. Touch screen and dedicated remote control is what I prefer. My Motorola has a 4.5" screen and don't intend to go larger than that. So which is the best combo for my style?
  9. Which part would you describe as "not too difficult"? Remember you have to identify the track and resistor going to each device with a different voltage, and solder a thin cable to it. The Bakoon seems to have two separate batteries that switch when one is discharged. The internal photo does not seem to show any DC-DC chip inside, but to confirm that we would need to see both sides of the pcb. The other way to do it, which is the way I'd do it, is use a higher voltage battery and a high quality LDO regulator to output +5v. Maybe that's how Bakoon do it. But I'm not sure other external battery boxes do that.
  10. Now let's go back to implementing the Raspberry with different streaming systems. To start with, I'm not familiar with Linux, and the only thing I know is that you boot it with an OS, using a CD or SD card. In the RPi we use an SD card. So please be patient with my effort to understand how to do things. 1) Which is the best Linux OS system to flash for this application? 2) What format should we use on the SD cards? 3) After flashing the OS, do we add the audio/streaming programs on each card? Why can't we put them all on the same SD card and run the one we want? 4) skikirkwood, which are the touchscreen you are using on your RPis? Once again, please forgive my basic questions. In the past I just used Linux on my PC, running Linux from CD.
  11. Has anyone tried that? Parts are so small, that the chance of bricking the Raspberry is very high. Once again, do not look at battery power as noiseless solution, except if using separate battery-series, capacitor bypassed. Battery boxes have DC-DC regulators inside, so they are not noiseless. They are just a different kind of switching supply.
  12. You are assuming that boxed batteries, those that are used to charge cellular phones and have USB outputs and inputs, provide "battery power", pure DC, but they do not. They have a DC-DC converter-regulator inside, so they should also be considered switching supplies. I added this comment on the archimago review too. If you want to compare external switching supplies to batteries you should get a 5v battery, assembled with a series of elements to get to 5v, add an usb connection and plug that. But it happens that the "real" problem is not just the external power supply type, but that the Raspberry has an internal DC-DC supply, just after the power input, that provides all the voltages to the board. That is what should be changed. I don't know if someone did and provided noise and other results data. From what I've seen elsewhere on this forum, one of the first things that is changed for "audiophile" computers is replacing the external usual switching supply with a multi-voltage linear supply. And all the external devices used, like streaming boxes and else, also carry linear external supplies. But seeing I can't do nothing on my RPi to change that, this discussion is only theoretical. I will only use an external linear supply to power the Raspberry, and that's all.
  13. How do you proceed and what do you need to install Squeezebox (and its different alternatives) on the RPi for a cabled interface? As I said, I won't be playing any directly plugged in usb source. USB only for output or operation. Neither will I play anything wireless.
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