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andrewinukm

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  1. Ah I see. That's really a shame (I feel the same for myself too). If I had started with nothing, I'd probably go with the LS50W, but I'm also too emotionally invested in my various components X^D. The LS50 Wireless is really really excellent for the price. In any case, if you happen to walk past a KEF dealer, just pop in for an listen. No harm listening and expanding your horizon. Someone mentioned iFi. The iDSD Black Label is a very good sounding DAC, lots of clarity. Definitely worth auditioning. I also love the Mytek sound, maybe try out the Mytek Liberty as well. As usual, listen before buying.
  2. After some thought... why not change to LS50W. It is really good. I used to dislike LS50 (the shoutiness), until I heard the LS50W. You can sell off the Pi, DAC, and amp...and use LS50W as Roon endpoint. Go audition it if you have the chance. 😉
  3. Cool setup there! I had the Topping D50 before. I'd say it's a good value DAC—good clarity, wide but not very deep sound stage. It's probably competitive up to 2-3x its price. The bass in D50 is lacking, no wonder you like it less with electric and rock music. When I bought Questyle CMA600i, it was as if the bass came out to play...the sub came alive. I also disliked the upper mids/lower treble of D50 when played loud, it gets a shouty/piercing/strident. Also, the USB input is really poor, SPDIF is audibly better (maybe consider an SPDIF hat on your Pi?) My experience with LS50 is that it can get shouty with certain DAC or amps (usually British), especially when played loud. Add the D50 and Hypex, I would assume you've got a lean, fast, tight sound, not a lot of body, weak bass, and a tendency to shoutiness at loud volumes (correct me if I'm wrong). For rock music, some grit and crunch sounds great. Tubes could possibly provide that, as well as add body and some sweetness for other music... but it is not going to bring out the bass. I'd suggest either a subwoofer (depending on room size and whether you want to keep the D50), or upgrade the DAC (in the range of >$700). In my case, I bought a subwoofer first as my speakers are too small for bass, then upgraded DAC to Questyle and finally to COS H1 now. Recently I also placed an pre-order for Nelson Pass's Korg Nutube B1 DIY kit to add a little tube magic. 🤩 To provide a little context, my setup: COS H1 (bright & airy DAC) > Nuforce STA200 (bright & sweet amp) & Adam Sub7 > Audience Ones (bright & airy speakers).
  4. SJK, you seems like a person with sufficient technical expertise. Instead of demanding others to supply you or anyone with proof, why not build the power supplies and test + listen for yourself? Then discuss your results with the community. I believe this would bring more value to yourself and this discussion. Many of the people above have built or developed various power supplies, measured them, and listened to them... and have thus formed the their opinions. We are all here by our own volition, no one is obliged to provide anyone with free information or proof, but they did out of love of the hobby/industry. So the question one needs to ask himself is: what value am I bringing to this discussion?
  5. Unfortunately no. I just went for it because it is the "higher end" version within my budget, and it was a demo unit. I also likely wouldn't be able to discern a difference in my system.
  6. You can look into Oyaide Neo d+ Class S or Class A. I own the Class S version. They are affordable and Oyaide publishes an eye diagram measurement for its USB cables on its site. So at least we know that it is made to specifications. As for sound wise, check out some reviews. Note: due to the flat shape of this cable, it's a little fussy with placement, so a little extra length helps. Another well reviewed & affordable option is Supra USB cable (which I also own, but not using). On a side note: I do find that ISO Regen made a preferable difference in my USB chain. Adding iFi iUSB Nano added a wee bit of smoothness/liquidity to the sound. Also it supplies clean power for the ISO Regen (double win for me ✌️). For me, I can't say I hear much of a difference between USB cables in my system (possibly due to a multitude of factors—not sensitive hearing, mid-fi equipment, room acoustics, etc etc). Though I've heard differences in digital RCA cables at friends' home. So I buy affordable cables with proper specs + good reviews. My USB chain: Laptop > Oyaide Class S (2m) > iFi iUSB 3.0 Nano > Uptone USPCB > ISO Regen > DIY cable > DAC. P.S. sorry for digging up an old thread.
  7. Used to own quite a few iPowers, sold most of them off except for a 12V which is used for an analogue radio. It improved the radio for sure. As for why I sold the others: In one setup, they caused other high frequency hum in the playback chain, i think it was about 8-9k Hz as I tried to measure it. I was using them to power Topping D50 and ISO Regen. Removed them, and voila, the 8kHz hum is gone. In another setup, they have a high frequency whine. I first thought it came from the speakers until I traced it back to the iPower themselves. Even though the iPowers likely reduce the noise and improved the sound of my setup, the high frequency hums were just too much for me. Try before buying, if it does no harm to your setup and you hear improvements, then by all means.
  8. Innuos launched the Phoenix USB thingy not too long ago, and there's a review on the main page. This is for PC setup (likely noisy USB), so take it with a pinch of salt: I use iFi iUSB 3.0 Nano in front of Uptone ISO Regen in a laptop setup. Sounds preferable to just using either iFi or ISO Regen. The difference is quite small and very subtle on my current DAC compared to previous DACs I've used. I attribute it to the excellent USB input of this new DAC. But you'd really have to try it to know if there's an improvement and whether you can hear this improvement. Nice DAC, BTW!
  9. Granted the marketing could've been more descriptive and what not, but they did not lie in anyway and did use an industrial standard. The moment I saw 100%, I knew it was scientifically inaccurate in absolute terms. And when you see silver being 106%... common sense would've told you that this must be a comparative number. As a scientist, a quick search around the web and you have discovered the IACS's way of stating relative conductivity. Many people bemoan that audio manufacturers often don't provide numbers or don't adhere to industrial standards (and therefore snake oil) etc etc etc. Now that you have a brand where their marketing uses industrial standards and accurate facts (though not common knowledge to people outside the industry), maybe we should ask ourselves: why are we continually agitated and angry even when accurate data is provided?
  10. I can understand why STC is so taken with Ambiophonics. Been using Ambiophonics for 5 years now, mostly in near field setting. Also went around promoting it to fellow audiophiles, but gave up as most are unable to accommodate DSP in their system. Currently my setup is a nearfield desktop PC setup: 27in monitor in the centre, small speakers (Audience One) 80cm apart (centre-to-centre). Small subwoofer on the floor. For casual listening & gaming, it makes a nice 60° equilateral triangle when I'm sitting at the desk. For serious listening, I sit about 1.8m away from the speakers. So the angle narrows to about 25°. Then I turn on Ambiophonics VST (in my Foobar or Jriver). As a budget purist, I don't use external DSP, bit-is-bits/bit-perfection and all that. The sound frees itself from the speakers. Centre imaging becomes solid. Soundstage expands: widening and deepens. Very involving. Caveat, vocals may possibly sound a wee bit drier, but the clarity is just amazin'. Hypothesis: I attribute the warmth of vocals in traditional stereo to the multiple signals arriving at the ears at different times. For small space, highly recommended to try. Recently Polk incorporated cross-talk cancelling concept into their flagship Legend L800, calling it "SDA Pro" technology. I consider it as half of Ambiophonics, and I'm interested to listen to it if the opportunity arises.
  11. I thought this topic is about using non-biased persons' responses to get objective data in the absence of measurement tools (these can get expensive and require proper training). Objectively speaking, an audio equipment user can still derive some form of objectivity even with the small sample size and lack of tools. Shouldn't this be encouraged, instead of being derided? Why are so many people so insistent only perfect measurements using perfect condition with perfect methods in another user? They are a just fellow users like everyone else, with nothing to gain. Also, these are just some cool personal stories. Why not just tske a chill pill & laugh over it?
  12. I have a "crystal" tweak that supposedly adds "depth" and "musical immersion" in my setup: just a small button sized thingy blutac'ed to the middle of front wall. I've repeated this test many many times over the years with friends & family not into high end audio (but music lovers), as well as with fellow audiophools audiophiles: (1) they listen to my system in its usual configuration, which means tweak is attached, but doesn't notice it as it's quite small and inconspicuous. (2) Then it is removed (I don't tell them what it does. I just pause the music, walk to the wall and remove it, then continue to let them enjoy the music). (3) Finally putting it back (as above, I simply walk to the wall, put the tweak back, and replay the song again). Basically A-B-A testing. Almost all heard a difference, and described the 'sound of the tweak' in similar ways. At stage (2), most would ask what happened and described that the sound 'flattened', 'losing depth'. I do this test to justify the tweaks I use, if others can't hear it, I'm most likely crazy/placebo/confirmation bias/expectation bias/bias towards biases/bias against biases, and these tweaks will be sold. *P.S. I have no idea why some tweaks work, I know a million objective reasons why it shouldn't work, no need for another scientist to claim confirmation bias, placebo, etc. I'm trained in science as well, but have given up trying to explain or find scientific explanation for tweaks like this.
  13. Lame as lame can be. Not exactly a person of scientific mind. I know track times are always mentioned. I would look at track times myself too. But I wasn't talking about track times, I specifically said "handles better". Noticed how fast you derail the this thread? And no one becomes as asshole when another person talks about ride handling, or start derailing the discussion. A person can be objectivist and put across scientific facts and data, and still be respectful to others. A true scientist would be curious enough to test and discover for himself instead of being lazy and asking to be fed with measurements. A**h****s often lack this scientific curiosity, but likes to claim to be non-biased and objective minded. Which is a contradiction I find amusing.
  14. I urge Chris to implement the "no a**h***" button. Post with too many dislikes/complaints automatically gets hidden and no one is allowed to quote and reply to it, so that everyone is forced to not engage it. And a giant warning sign above the post and avatar. Whoever is misbehaving will get flagged by the thread participants and the post will be frozen.
  15. @The Computer Audiophile https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_No_Asshole_Rule Maybe the best way to state clearly is The No A**h*** Rule, regardless of objectivist or subjectivist. If a person is being rude, snarky, trolling, and generally irritating to others in a thread, they eat the ban hammer. Maybe we should come up with some kind of social scoring for members: members with too many posts reported would have their avatars changed to a troll image and have a red flashing warning sign above all their posts. No. It is not gray. It just means DON'T BE AN A**H*** to another member and stop irritating others even if their opinions are very different from yours and might not be proven. A baby seal didn't die every time a person posts a subjectivist claim. If a person has to keep pressing what defines being an a**h***, he probably is one.
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