Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About colonel_forbin

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Okay here is my question. I have a HDPlex 100W linear power supply and a SOtM sMS-200 on the way. I will power the sMS with the linear power. My DAC is powered by USB and also receives digital signal over the same cable from the sMs. I am wandering, because I am supplying the sMS-200 with clean linear power, will the DAC will benefit as well or if I need to get an adapter like the UpTone Audio USB Regen to split the power off from the usb out on the sMS-200 and add back in power from my HDPlex supply? So firstly would it be beneficial to power the DAC separately versus off of the sMS (powered from a 100W linear supply)? Secondly, if it is beneficial to power the DAC separately, instead of an expensive USB Regen and more high quality cables, could I not just order a high quality USB-Y cable and remove the ground and 5v connections from the first male end that goes into the sMS-200 and then just plug the other male end directly into my linear power supply so that data is received from one male tip in the sMS and power is received from the other male tip in the linear supply?
  2. My current DAC only way of receiving power is over USB. I have the ability to power it over the USB and send it digital signal through S/PDIF, but I just ordered a SOtM sMS-200 and I would like to use it in my setup. I am wandering if the sMS-200 audio usb port sends digital audio signal as well as 5v power. I know some high end audio units strip the 5v power line out of a USB to remove a possible source of noise, so that is what made me curious as to whether the sMS-200 will power my DAC as well as send it digital signal. I have asked the question twice to SOtM, but there appears to be a translation issue and they think I am just confirming that I can send digital signal to my DAC via USB. I know that if it does not output power over USB then I will be forced to buy something like the UpTone Audio USB Regen to allow me to add power to the line cleanly from my linear supply. If anyone has insight on this issue please share your knowledge. If I need a device to add power to the USB line then I would like to order it now so I am not sitting staring at the sMS-200 waiting to hear it. Thanks guys. Mike
  3. There is a good chance that as time goes on and my dad explores this realm of audio, he will upgrade to more expensive audio specific equipment that meet his goals. But for now, we want a more budget solution to learn and try. I am sure with his addiction to quality and to components, he will quickly out grow this and seek a new DAC and delivery system and when that happens I will get this build which is right in my budget and will sound great with my stuff. I can not afford to graduate to the elitist equipment as quick as he can so this will be good for trial and error with his stuff and then great for me to take on when he upgrades.
  4. I have not checked out their solutions. I may consider but it sounds like they will need to support the addition of a sound card because that seems to be recommended above versus that stock mobo USB outs. Really?!?! That really annoys me because I spent more money to avoid dealing with less than audio quality power and not deal with noise. You have personally experienced and heard of others experiencing trouble with the HDPlex Hifi DC-ATX unit? I would strongly consider the picoPSU-160-XT if that is a standard among users here and is vouched for. I read on an ebay auction that was for a linear to ATX kit something that said that their supply was superior because it had super low noise introduction unlike the picoPSU which was reported to buzz and whine with certain hardware and applications. How do you wire your system. Explain the setup with the HDPlex 100w Linear and the picoPSU 160W DC-ATX supply. Thanks. Please recommend some different cards with USB out at various price stages. I would be willing to spend $150-220 on something if it will have a genuine effect on cleanliness of digital output. This unit is actually not for the ATC's. He will still most likely use his existing equipment for solo sessions when he desires the most pristine sound, however he has been wanting a solution for when guests and people are over, not having to switch cd's constantly and find what he wants. So he understands not to expect the world from this. Plus when guests are over or we are casually hanging around the house, the background noise is at a level that makes it reasonable to not worry about such things. Thanks for your help. Mike
  5. How does the microrendu interact with roon or other audio services? Does it have a OS? What configures it? What controls its playback? Thanks for help. Mike
  6. 1. A little confused here, if you don't mind elaborating. Are you saying that if my DAC is well designed and designed for USB power and Audio in simultaneously, then I will not experience noise introduction using this setup? Also if you would recommend a card you know of with dedicated USB out around $150-200 that I could power separate from the motherboard with my linear supply. Also let me know in your opinion, how much difference would doing this make versus using using the stock motherboard USB outs? 2. What is a power conditioner? And no there is nothing but our audio equipment on that leg. 3. I will have to read up on MQA. I am unfamiliar with it or its importance. If Tidal is streaming "compressed" flac, doesn't that imply that it is not lossless? Are there compression methods that are not lossy? I heard one of the lossless protocols mac uses can reduce file size by half without loss. Is there an audible degradation of sound from a standard flac purchased from HDTracks and the compressed flacs I will hear on Tidal's streaming service? 4. JRiver has been highly recommended. Does it have the ability to control different rooms? Is it much more intensive setup than something like roon? 5. I have considered an underclock, but my CPU is such low wattage at peak, I may just leave it be. 6. Asynchronous USB includes checks and correction or is it unilateral? 7. Thinking seriously of starting here with roon for a year but your initial comment of getting into Jriver and some other posts have me curious of using that as an alternative. 8. Thanks for all the advice and any additionally help you provide. Have a good one. Mike
  7. 1. If I do not power the DAC from the USB, then I am forced to use an audio card with S/PDIF out. My DAC only has the option of receiving power from USB. It will however accept digital in from S/PDIF. When it only receives power over USB, it will switch over to S/PDIF IN mode. I however thought that I would be wise to send audio over USB. Based on my limitations, what do you think is my best method of powering the DAC and sending it digital audio. 2.Why would powering the DAC with my HDPlex Linear Power Supply introduce noise into the system? It is a separate out on the LPS and I thought the purpose of buying an audio grade LPS was so that it could power sensitive audio equipment without introducing the noise that a SMPS is known to introduce. 3. Does Asynchronous USB have correction or is it unilateral? Thanks for your help. Mike
  8. Hi, I am brand new to the forum but have been reading furiously in the last few days. Just joined. I am very curious as to what you guys think of my plans, as well as advice and constructive criticism. I have built pc's countless times, but this is my first audio specific build that will be designed for high quality digital out. Okay into the meat of things. Here is the main use: My dad has an extremely nice stereo room in his basement and a very refined ear. The room is very acoustically pleasing and I am unsure of his current equipment because he is always switching between his favorites, but for any of you skeptics out there, the last set of speakers he owed and sold were a set of ATC SCM 150 Active Speakers in a custom birds-eye maple finish that were purchased by a recording studio in Nashville. Look them up if you are unfamiliar, made me well up with tears the first time I heard them running with tubes. Anyways, I have a huge collection of 'lossless' audio we would like to play on his stereo and my father has been interested in joining a service like tidal to stream lossless but currently has no dedicated equipment to handle these tasks. I have bought parts to build something to take on the challenge and hopefully please his ears. Motherboard: I prefer MSI motherboards. Also I wanted something with a low power consumption. Small form factor was also a goal initially (before I found out the size of my CPU cooler). I went with a mini ITX MSI H110i Pro AC. Will not be taking advantage of the wireless guys, I know better. I already have a ethernet cable run direct from the source through the wall to where the finished product will sit. https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/H110I-PRO-AC.html#hero-overview CPU: Low TDW for less heat Intel I5-6400T. This is decently powerful but also only consumes 35 watts maximum. It is compatible with the choices I have for software in the end and networking reliability is supposedly better on Intel for pulling from a NAS than any AMD equip. https://ark.intel.com/products/88187/Intel-Core-i5-6400T-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-2_80-GHz CPU Cooler: I forgot to mention that I would like a fanless design...well actually let's say no moving parts. I chose a huge Zalman FX70 cooler that should get the job done no problem. Completely passive and after some very enlightening talks with one of their engineers, I was assured that with my CPU this build would be very possible. ZALMAN - FX70 Memory: I had some newegg credit and found a really good deal on some highly rated 8gb stick so I just went with 16gb of Geil Evo Potenza. Also like that the memory has heat fins on the top to dissipate heat since I will not have fans. DDR4 EVO POTENZA DUAL CHANNEL Kit - Products - GeIL Memory Storage: I obviously want solid state for numerous reasons. I can use M2 with my motherboard but prefer 2.5" so I still have the ability to power it separately. I will only store the operating system on this most likely. I will stream predominantly and sometimes plug in with a separately powered external ssd drive. Since my collection won't be stored locally on this build, I did not need huge capacity and chose the Crucial MX300 525GB SSD which should be ample. Crucial MX300 525GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal SSD | CT525MX300SSD1 | Crucial.com Power Supply: For starters, my mini itx board does not take a direct 19.v input like most. It has standard ATX power. Additionally, I have a system that peaks at 86 Watts, so I don't need anything major. I considered linear first and got scared away by the cost being so high. Then I looked at picoPSU and found that some users experience noise introduction and scared away. I made a small mistake and bought a Seasonic 400w fanless PSU because of good reviews from fellow audiophiles, but then quickly became reluctant and cancelled the order and instead chose the HDPlex 100W Linear Power Supply coupled with the HDPlex 300W HiFi DC-ATX (NanoATX Series). The 400W version includes the ATX conversion but was just too expensive for me to justify. I additionally could have picked the HDPlex 160W DC-ATX but it did not include the audio specific capacitors that are used in the 300W Hifi unit. HDPLEX Fanless Linear Power Supply for PC Audio and CE device HDPLEX-300W-Hi-Fi-DC-ATX-Power-Supply (16V-24V Wide Range Voltage Input) DAC: We already own a Resonessence Concero HD which I am very pleased with. I will be using this for the heavy lifting. CONCERO HD - Resonessence Dacs - True Audio Clarity Case: Welp....you got me there. I have been unable to find something that I like. I have a friend who has a precision CNC machine though and he said we can design and build something with that to meet my needs exactly. I have put only a little though into it but I am thinking about bottom mounting the motherboard next to the LPS which will be internal. Have a roughly 14 inch long face, 10 inch deep sides, and a height of approx 8 inches. Just rough measurements. Cut the sides and base out of wood. Vent the sides nicely and use thin pieces. Have the back side cut for the ports and power. Stain the wood and put a power button on the front. Place half inch rubber nubs on the the corners on the open top. Have a piece of glass cut to size that sits on the rubber nubs. So it would be stained wood on 5 sides with venting and then a half inch top gap between the sides and the glass top to allow heat to rise out in all directions easily. Clear glass top to see components. Ideally have the top of the cpu cooler sitting a quarter inch or so away from the glass so its top is slightly visible from the sides of the box. It is a precision cnc so I can have it draw a logo into the front as well. My Questions: Is it good practice to simply run USB out to the DAC for power as well as digital audio or do I need to seriously consider getting a card that has S/PDIF out and powering the DAC from the wall or the HDPlex linear supply? How should I run the power? Please help here! Is Tidal streaming truly lossless? What software should I use? I need it to be controllable by phone or tablet. Once this pc is setup it will not have visible video out. The controlling of audio playback needs to be done on the phone or tablet. Also the interface needs to be pretty simple. I have seriously been considering roon labs because it seamlessly incorporates Tidal into the library and my dad will predominantly stream from Tidal if it is truly lossless. Should I be worried about clocking? Am I capable of Asynchronous USB? For the money I have spent (before DAC), is there a roon-ready recommended player that I can afford that will produce better quality? (around $1000) In the past I have only used usb out to a headphone DAC with an ASIO driver using foobar for playback. School me up people. Please help me along the way. I know some of you have been where I am at and now have a ton of experience to share.
  • Create New...