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About sandston

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  1. Just upgraded my system and have some items for sale for anyone who wants to get started in the wonderful world of streaming digital audio. Buy one buy all. Please feel free to make offer. All offers considered. Pictures available upon request. All items guaranteed to work properly. Please feel free to ask any questions. Uptone Audio Ultracap LPS 1.2 with stock cables (New $435) Used $375 Sonore Microrendu 1.3 with stock power supply and cables - $250 2X - TPLink Fiber Optic Media Converter MC220L - (New $23 each) $25 for the pair Fiber Optic Cable - 6 Meter Multimode Duplex (62.5/125) - LC to LC - Orange (New $15) Used - $7 Uptone Audio USB Regen Amber with stock cables and power supply (New $175) Used $75 Linear Power Supply (2 rail adjustable 5 - 12 volt) This is a 2 rail version of the well reviewed "El Cheapo", R-Core transformer linear power supply. Both outputs are user adjustable via a small screw inside the unit. For buyers uncomfortable setting themselves or who do not own a volt meter I would be happy to set and label for you. I used this unit to good effect to power the units above in various configurations. Happy to provide pictures of the inside. I believe this was branded as Zerozone on Ebay when purchased. Used - $50
  2. I found a page that mentions non-optimum attenuation as well as the idea that some cables have the attenuation built in. 1. Fixed Attenuators: Fixed optical attenuators used in fiber optic systems may use a variety of principles for their functioning. Preferred attenuators use either doped fibers, or misaligned splices, or total power since both of these are reliable and inexpensive. Inline style attenuators are incorporated into patch cables. The alternative build out style attenuator is a small male-female adapter that can be added onto other cables. Non-preferred attenuators often use gap loss or reflective principles. Such devices can be sensitive to modal distribution, wavelength, contamination, vibration, temperature, damage due to power bursts, may cause back reflections, may cause signal dispersion etc.
  3. This idea of attenuation of the fiber signal has lead me to do some research. I remember reading somewhere that there might be a minimum fiber optic cable length requirement in order to limit back reflections and I wanted to confirm this. Have not found any info to support this yet however I did see a guide that says you should put all attenuation on the receiving end only. https://community.fs.com/blog/guideline-for-fixed-fiber-optic-attenuator.html There is also quiet a bit of info on how the attenuation is done and what this does to signal loss and signal distortion. Perhaps a new thread needs to be started to compile this info. As we all know this equipment is designed for very long runs and we are using it for very short runs. We need to compile some numbers for the common transceivers and receivers we as a community are using including their output and input specs to determine how much attenuation we really need in a given run to be at an optimum operating point.
  4. Jud I have the monoprice CAT8. I dissected one last night and the shields are indeed connected at both ends. The procedure was quiet simple. Razor blade off the plastic sleeve. Cut the shield wire to the metal housing. I then removed the metal housing because I wasnt confident I could keep the wires from touching the housing. This was done with a pair of needle nose starting at the seam in the metal housing. Bend it away at both ends and it pops right off. This did indeed leave a bit of a loose connector. However these cable are inexpensive enough that I was not too concerned. This weekend I will hot glue the ends to avoid stressing the solder points. Its not pretty but if you want to experiment its pretty straight forward. Common sense tells me to connect the unconnected shield end upstream.
  5. Wow Alex that was a fast response an most assuredly inline with the great customer service Uptone has gotten a reputation for. As I understand it the recommended install would be Switch > longer RJ45 (no metal ends) EtherREGEN > Short RJ45 (Best quality sanity will permit, metal ends OK) > Renderer Does the community have additional comments from the field?
  6. With all the positive reviews pouring in for the Etherregen I have taken the plunge and have placed my order. With the ER I am looking to finally update my network / digital front end and am looking for some advice from users on the best upgrade path. I currently own a first gen Microrendu fed by a pair of TPLink optical modules. I also own two LPS 1.2 Supercap power supplies. I have read and reread the forums along with the comments from Uptone and Sonore regarding their products regarding best implementation practices and I am trying to decide on upgrading to the Ultra or the Optical Rendu. Does the addition of the Etherregen appear to negate the need for optical isolation making the added cost of the Opticalrendu a worthwhile improvement in sound quality. I understand that this is very subjective but I would love to hear peoples opinions of the two front end chains. Can anyone speak to the MOAT created by the ER negating the need for the optical isolation? Aside from the addition on the optical module to the OR are the OR and the UR otherwise equal? Switch > RJ45 > EtherRegen (LPS 1.2) > RJ45 > Ultrarendu (LPS 1.2) > DAC Switch > RJ45 > EtherRegen (LPS 1.2) > optical cable > Opticalrendu (SGC LPS)
  7. Id be curious to see how it stacks up against the MiniDSP SHD studio. A bit more expensive at $899 but you get Dirac built in and the Studios is all digital and takes an outboard (ie: upgradeable) power supply. Frankly I am quite surprised this Volumio streamer isn't getting way more traction in the forums here. I mean come on we all have great DACS here on this website.
  8. No to be clear they did not. They said they were able to reproduce the noise and that they were working to determine the cause. In the meantime they are sending me a work around fix in the form of a Y-Cable. I am assuming they have created a filter in this cable. Again kudos to them for being forthright on this. You would not get this from most companies in my experience. I also want to add that their customer service throughout this whole issue has been exemplary.
  9. Thank you One and a Half for taking the time to absorb all the details so far regarding this noise. I have tried cheater plugs and moving the power of the subs, preamp and amps off the P10 in every conceivable combination. I also turned off every light and went so far as to shut off all the circuits in my house except the one feeding my stereo. These were some of the first things I tried. It is pretty obvious at this point that this is noise generated from the Sub amps. To your question, when I turn the subs off the noise continues for about 10-20 seconds until what appears to be the caps in the sub amps power supply completely discharging. When this happens we hear a small squeal and a spike and then silence. Meanwhile SVS has been able to recreate the problem on their end (Kudos to this company for their customer service and honesty by the way) They are sending me a patch cable that they have made that has fixed the issue in their tests. I can only assume this includes some type of filter they have devised. I thought of trying the same thing and have looked at the Jensen filters and the less expensive inline rca crossover filters available on parts express to see if they would eliminate the noise by effectively crossing over the upper frequencies. My guess is they would mask the noise to some degree but this seems to be a band aid approach. I think we would all agree that the the fix should occur at the power supply leak not in the signal path.
  10. All the power is pretty clean. The whole system is plugged into a PS Audio P10 .
  11. These are tube amps (Melody 845M) and there is a of course a certain amount of noise present in the speakers when you are close to them. Always will be from what I understand. This noise is not audible from more than a couple feet from the speaker. I'm sure there are more accurate ways of measuring the squealing noise that is happening however I wanted to post this to see if anyone recognized the pattern. It is apparent to me that the subs alone are creating this noise and that it is not an interaction between components. There appears to be some type of electronic leakage on the inputs of this amps design. I have been talking extensively with SVS and they claim that they have never seen this phenomenon. They are going to try to recreate it now with by running an RCA from the input of the sub into an AVR with the volume all the way up.
  12. I was measuring it a few inches from the speaker but the squeal can be heard from my sitting position.
  13. Still no luck with mitigating the squeal attached are two screen shots showing a frequency screen grab with the sub on and the sub off. No squeal seems to be noise a several regularly spaced frequencies. I also substituted an A/V unit I had and plugged the sub input into one of the inputs on the AV unit and the squeal can still be heard with the volume turned all the way up.
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