Jump to content

Ryelands

Members
  • Content Count

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About Ryelands

  • Rank
    Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I don't dispute that fitting "cleaner" chargers does not affect the output of the LPS-1 - I can't because I've never used anything other than the supplied Meanwells on the five LPS-1s I have in daily use. (I don't think a user can reasonably or even honestly expect a manufacturer to honour a warranty claim if the device is not used as supplied.) But what I can confidently say is that improving the charging configuration of my LPS-1s definitely improved the SQ of my system. I use an isolating device based on Jon Risch two-transformer & capacitance circuit in front of each Meanwell. They're bulky and I'd love to get rid of them but, if I do remove them, SQ definitely falls. Trust me, I've tried several times. I long since connected the Meanwell's negative outputs toi safety earth as instructed to good effect. The only directly mains-powered devices in my system are the power amps - they have a dedicated mains feed, a mains-power regenerator and fancy PSUs. Everything else (CPU, USB gizmo, DAC) is "off-grid" in the sense you describe. The sound is exquisite BUT, if I by-pass the Meanwell's mains isolation, its quality definitely falls. I'm not saying the Risch circuit is mandatory (I had the bits to hand) and suspect that any decent isolating transformer would work just as well. I'm also sure we can agree that, though using a spare JS-2 output is fair game, buying the likes of a JS-2 simply to drive the Meanwells is a waste of money. I wonder of you're not doing actually yourself dowh slightly here. An LPS-1 charged by a directly mains connected Meanwell sounds excellent by any reckoning but the relatively modest effort involved in ensuring that the Meanwells (or, I suspect, the LPS-1.2 equivalents) are thoroughly isolated from the mains definitely gave me a worthwhile improvement. Am I the only user who claims this? Dave
  2. A while back, I made up two short USB cables with a toggle switch in the Gnd lines (PC > Intona > I2S board). The idea was that, once the post-boot handshake was complete, I could break the Gnd lines. SQ was excellent but, as you'd expect, I would forget to restore the connections on next power-up. In the end, I settled for low-value resistors in the wire with little, if any, SQ loss and less hassle. I forget from whom I pinched the toggle-switch idea but seem to recall getting the low-value resistor idea from an old post by JS. (I was going to call the design "The Plagiarise".) However, I've just measured my USPCB and found it has no resistance in the Gnd line. Am I missing something?
  3. If the target device is powered via the USB port but not by the device supplying the data, the switch is handy. If, as I do, you use a DIY'd adapter to connect a LiFePO4 battery (or even an LPS-1 . . .) to the port. it is possible to connect both the host's +5v AND the battery. OK, you need to be pretty dumb to do so but which of us has not done dumb things from time to time? By setting the switch to OFF, you reduce the chance of a potentially interesting error.
  4. Conran:

     

    Hope you don't mind my contacting you but, as it was on your recommendation that I bought one of those "LTE3045 x 4" boards, I'm hoping you can advise me.

     

    Do I simply connect the supplied mains SMPS to the input side and the load to the output side, power up and run, pretty much as other PSUs? The instructions are not clear - they mention "removing batteries" - and I cannot find a pic of the board in use. I've asked the supplier but cannot get a clear answer, probably because my question is badly worded. If I can use it as I hope I can, I plan to buy several of them.

     

    Best wishes

     

    Dave

     

    1. Cornan

      Cornan

      Hi Dave,

       

      No problem! Yes, you just plug the supplied SMPS into the AC wall and the DC plug to the DC socket on the board (input not labled but the output is so it should make sense). The board have a balanced charger and will charge both Li-ions and LiFePO4s. I use the latter with great success. The switch should be to the right (facing DC input) when powering and charging. Switch to the left means that everything is off (use it to save battery life).

       

      Now, the SMPS comes without the AC adapter for your country (atleast mine did). I bought this adapter for Sweden. You’ll probably need to buy one for your country. They are likely easy to find.

       

      1ADC2060-A5EC-411C-A2BD-A028FF800637.thumb.jpeg.abaf58bb4fed7f678b5e8a67d9f91ee2.jpeg

      5C61FE21-A5FD-4BE1-8AC9-8E4FE8E7B37A.thumb.jpeg.9a861cdea1878d17eb71ccca5a8923b6.jpeg

       

      Here is a couple of pictures of my board which I only charge between the music sessions. The light on the SMPS goes from red to orange to green indicating how much the batteries is charged.

      The info from the seller is that the board can be used without batteries as well, meaning that you can for example power it with a LPSU (and without batteries) as long as the input voltage is less than what the LT3045s can handle.

      I hope that helps! ? 

       

      650D8A92-E43D-4873-A4E6-0DA124C9ECB0.thumb.jpeg.5dea18e62e95691c3b43e5055109e12f.jpegBD257530-418C-46E5-BE01-50CD32F93F87.thumb.jpeg.ab0a69485fc7cf8f70dd86929d451426.jpeg6550A274-EC70-4B8B-8D20-89450A74B730.thumb.jpeg.3752271740700f6cddd05c51ade12e94.jpeg

       

      Micael

    2. Ryelands

      Ryelands

      Thank you so much for such a quick and helpful reply! Pictures and everything . . . what's an old man not to like?

       

      (I'd already got round the incompatible mains plug issue on the SMPS by soldering a mains lead to the pins and adding insulation.)

       

      It'll be a day or two before I can try this but I'll let you know how I get on.

       

      Best wishes

       

      Dave

    3. Cornan

      Cornan

      You’re welcome! I’m glad it helped! ?

       

      I’m very interested to hear your impressions. Here that board concured LPS-1.2 with 3A LT3045 at the input at my perticular spot (GI Spdif output of my BluWave USB to Spdif board).

       

      Micael

  5. It wasn't a safety recommendation, it was a slightly snide remark. One-and-a-half's post was much more helpful even if the topic in hand is the cable between a socket and a device, not in-wall wiring. Interestingly, electrically parallel though not physically proximate wiring between a panel and wall sockets has been the rule in the UK since the early 1940s. It is known as a ring mains; stranded cables are not permitted. Thanks but I know why quad-core geometry was developed, when and for what applications. That was why I wrote, "early applications being for long-run signal cables" though telephony cables would have been more accurate. It's been a couple of years since I researched quad-core mains cables - apologies if links are no longer to be found or I'm mis-remembering. (I do seem now dimly to recall that the Supra QC reference was to speaker cables.) I have no interest in doing it again though I did recently see material on VH Audio's site which IIRC discussed a Belden.QC mains cable since superceded by its own product. Can I assume you take my point about DVMs being the wrong tool for assessing power cables?
  6. I'm not your research assistent (Google's your friend here) but, to get you started, recall that the refresh rate of a DVM is typically and for obvious reasons about 2 to 5Hz, that AC mains is 50/60Hz, that the diodes in a typical PSU conduct for a small fraction of each cycle and that, absent appropriate measures, diode switching noise can extend into the KHz and even MHz range and is readily propagated back into the mains supply. Kill-a-Watt meters are excellent gadgets but not in this context. I didn't suggest it was, at least not in the geometry shown here. Quad-core configurations OTOH are a different matter. As to why, Google is again your friend. There's a wealth of material on the topic, much of it on sites hosted by the likes of Supra, Belden and Canare. I was merely pointing out that the suggestion that parallel conductors were not permitted under the Regulations (UK term) was, well, not helpful.
  7. Several reputable manufacturers (Belden, Supra, etc) sell mains cable and assembled cables featuring quad-core geometry, i.e. two pairs (L & N) of parallel cables. The benefits of the geometry have been understood since the 1930s; early applications being for long-run signal cables. In passing, anyone who thinks that a DVM or, so help me, a Kill-a-Watt meter, with their slow-by-design sample rates, is going to help understand (dismiss) the notion of why power cables can affect the performance of amplifiers needs to do a bit of homework.
  8. Though by all accounts Ghent Audio cables are well made and are certainly reasonably priced, I don't off-hand recall John commenting either favourably or unfavourably about them. Correct me if I'm wrong. What I do remember is Alex complaining about the company using the acronym JSSG in its advertising. The point seems reasonable given that the source of the acronym is not acknowledged and that Uptone sells its own cables. Dave
  9. I'd say that decent cables bring the best out of any PS but especially out of the likes of an LPS-1. There's little point in spending big money on an ultra-low output impedance circuit only to connect it to its load with an over-long lead of highish impedance. John's by-now-notorious JSSG quad-core design has repeatedly proved in my system to be superior both to conventional cables and to quad-core unscreened cables. As you say, they're not hard to DIY if you know how to use a soldering iron.( I've yet to try the "360 degree" version.) Today's hot cable tip: if the target device needs a lower voltage than the LPS-1/1.2 can provide, set the LPS-1x to a higher voltage and mount a decent Vreg (LT3045 or equivalent) at the remote end of the cable, as close as possible (closer, even) to the load. I did just that to both my WaveIO USB>I2S board and Intona isolator with excellent results. Ditto for my DAC. (H/T to GStew for making me try it.) Swallow the extra cost, call it a HyperActive Link and show it off to your friends . . .
  10. I don't have a JS2 but I did for several years use John's original C-L-C circuit (published on Audio Asylum in 2009) to power a DIY'd Network Audio Adapter. AFAIK, the 2009 circuit is essentially identical to the JS2 though the latter may have been refined. (It's certainly better built - it even comes in a case . . .) My DIY effort was much better than the conventional linear PSU it replaced and is still in use in an RIAA pre-amp. The same goes for two more builds of the circuit which for some time powered my TDA1541A DAC. But they just don't compare to using LPS-1s in the same role, as I do now. I have no hesitation in recommending you use one for your ultraRendu. The JS2 is a fine circuit that addresses the LPS-1.2's power limitations but, where they provide enough power, the LPS-1/LPS-1.2 are superior devices sonically. HTH Dave
  11. Switch-wise, the best results, at least for me, came from upgrading the 3.3v Vreg in the ES-105. The mod is effective and all but negates the differences between the versions (I've tried versions 1 & 3 but not 2). That said, it's slightly easier to fit the Vreg to the v1 board. I can confirm Greg's finding that powering a Vreg-modified DeLock with an LPS-1 sounds significantly better than using a linear PS. Until recently, I'd had to use the latter. Other LAN-related upgrades include stacking two or even three ES-105s in series though that one is probably no longer worthwhile given the imminent(ish) Uptone EtherRegen. Still well worth trying is removing the redundant pairs from the LAN cable - 100BaseT uses pins 1&2, green & 3&6, orange but not the blue or brown pairs. Though easy to do, it can make a dramatic difference. Decently-made CAT5 cables (e.g. Excel, BlueJean) are IMHO the best choice. Also, where practicable, try running the LAN at 10MB/sec, not 100MB/sec. Dave
  12. I haven’t seen it and have, for obvious reasons, no plans to try to measure it but I have heard it. My experience might be of wider interest. I’ve been using a Phillips TDA1541A DAC chip more or less continuously for over 30 years. I recently tried powering it with three LPS-1s wired to provide –14v, -7v and +7v; the –14v line as the nominal –15v supply (seems fine) and the +/-7v lines driving fancy voltage regulators to give +/- 5v. Hitherto, I’d been using a DIY’d but definitely-not-shabby C-L-C linear PSU. Hint: the circuit is, er, not unlike that in Uptone’s JS2 supply. I thought the sound was already excellent but the improvement obtained by switching to the LPS-1s was very marked indeed. If someone tells me that I’m mad to spend ~$1,500 to drive a $10 chip first produced in 1985, I’d agree. Except that I’ve heard the result and someone hasn’t. Whatever, after a few hours, I found I could hear a background noise when standing near the speakers. Cranking up the volume, it clearly resembled pink noise whose volume modulated in time with the load variations on the Meanwell SMPSs driving the system’s five LPS-1s, a pattern I happened to know from previous trials not relevant here. To cut a long story short, I spotted that I’d forgotten to ground the output from one of the Meanwell SMPSs driving the LPS-1s. I fixed the error and the problem disappeared. What was interesting was that the guilty Meanwell wasn’t driving one of the DAC’s power lines but the Network Audio Adapter. Note that all the Meanwells in my system are connected to the mains via individual isolating transformers, that I have a LiFePO4 battery-powered Intona isolator thingie between the NAA and the DAC AND that I switch the Gnd lines in the USB cables out of circuit while playing music. Dave
  13. Plumbers' PTFE tape (white spools) is usually 0.072mm thick. OTOH, Gasfitters' PTFE tape (yellow spools) is 0.2mm thick, making it easier to handle , stronger and, at least for DIY audio cables, more effective mechanically. HTH Dave
  14. The idea wasn't mine but I noticeably improved the sound quality of an Intona isolator and a WaveIO USB>I2S each powered by its own LPS-1 set to 5 volts by switching the LPS-1s to 7v and fitting 5v LT3045 regulator boards between them and the target device. Ditto for LAN switches where I fitted 3.3v LT3045 boards internally. When funds permit, I'll be upgrading the LPS-1s that power my DIY'd Network Audio Adapters as they need at least 7v but the lesson is surely that the LPS-1 didn't suddenly become obsolete just because a better Vreg came on the market. HTH Dave
×
×
  • Create New...