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Everything posted by PeterG

  1. I started with iTunes/Amarra years ago because it was virtually free ($50 for Amarra on any Mac). Then (of course) I "needed" a USB decrapifier, then another, then another....Also (of course) I needed to upgrade to an SSD, and performer other tweaks. And the whole thing was never really stable. So I dropped $3K on a Naim after "investing" hundreds or a thou in the Mac. Pretty much as soon as I knew I loved computer audio, the Mac was no longer a bargain. If I was just starting today, I would buy a Bluesound Node for $500 or so. If you already know you're in for a longer haul,
  2. Whoa! I'm almost certain the receiver pictured is my first! Parents let me buy it with money from my bar mitzvah. The Realistic receiver had 16 wpc, and cost $149 (marked down from $249). EPI 100 speakers from Tech Hifi in Cambridge were $200 with all the lamp cord I could want. Dual 1225 with a Shure cartridge was $125. I loved it😊
  3. He's kind of touchy, but he's a terrific reviewer and a good writer. Glad to have him back
  4. Hi Steven, Since you write "Dear audiophiles", I'm guessing you are not one yourself. I'm also going to guess that your idea of a subwoofer is for special effects in movies on your TV. I think it could be awesome for this. But for music, this would be deeply compromised over the ideal of a specially designed housing placed in a specified spot relative to walls, main speakers, and listeners. As research, you should go to a hifi dealer and buy a stereo with a sub.
  5. Robbbby's recent thread on hearing loss due to trauma reminded me of a pet theory I've been nursing for a while. Perhaps age-related hearing loss actually makes us appreciate audiophile systems even more than we did before age crept up on us? This is in direct opposition to the frequent critique that audiophiles are a bunch of old guys whose age related hearing loss makes it impossible to hear the nuances they claim their systems reveal. Highly resolving speakers/systems--let's say those that others might describe as too analytical--are those that do the best job of separation, o
  6. Hi Joe, I drive a Tesla, so they were the first folks I called about solar a couple of years ago. I love the company and can't imagine driving anything else, but their solar team is terrible--almost completely incompetent. Obviously, I do not know your particular house, but in general, solar economics are extremely attractive with annual returns (IRR) of 15-20%. To anyone who has a reasonably sunny roof in the summertime, I recommend calling 2-3 local installers and asking them to let you know what your economics would be. They can run the numbers on their computer just using y
  7. Interesting. So I googled it, but can't find anything. Say more! It's hard for me to imagine a CD transport being able to exceed a lossless rip onto an excellent server. Shouldn't the rip eliminate timing issues and a whole bunch of noise with no tradeoff in the other direction? Plus, no comparison on the convenience factor.
  8. My Naim Uniti Core server and Yggdrasil are good competition for a turntable. So yes, I think you should try a Yggy. One other important issue is source material. If you have not done so already, you should check out the dynamic range database. That may be part of your problem.
  9. PeterG


    I own the Nordost QKore grounding system. I don't know if you count plugging into the wall outlet as connection to ground, or if you are referring only to an independent connection to ground. There is no independent connection to ground. The QKore does work with their QBase power strip, but I'm pretty sure the Kore is grounding the Base, not vice versa; and that the Kore does not require any grounding at all. In any event the Nordost QKore and Qbase made an excellent and pronounced improvement in my system compared to relying only on stock power cables. The noise floor dropped; detail, im
  10. PeterG


    I don't know Entreq, but I don't think you would have heard this said from a person who has tried an audiophile grounding box or other power conditioning from a good manufacturer. OTOH, you may have heard this from a bitter armchair quarterback with suppositions from their engineering class 30 years ago and no actual knowledge of the product in question. Do you really think the engineers at Nordost, Shunyata, Audioquest, et al have not considered all the issues that might occur to a hobbyist sitting at home? Like all things in high end audio, you should try them in a risk-free wa
  11. PeterG


    No worries--QBase is plugged into the wall with a 3 prong plug. QKore is not plugged in at all. As I understand it in my "Dummies" way, the QKore pulls noise from your electronics via the grounding wires from Nordost, and separately pulls noise from your home electrical system via the QBase. I'm pretty sure that these are independent, and that only the second one of these tasks requires the third prong. As to Speedskater's quip--Green Eggs and Ham was formative for me, so I have little sympathy for folks who sit in an armchair and declare that something does nothing before the
  12. PeterG


    Correct, but I'm not a technical person, so just to be clear: The QKore is a box with grounding material in it. It's kind of like Grounding fo Dummies. Each of my components and the QBase power strip are connected by ground wire to the QKore. QBase is plugged into standard wall outlet via an upgraded power cord. Just plug all this stuff together, and listen.
  13. PeterG


    I love my Nordost QKore/QBase setup--it's basically grounding in a box. In addition to the components themselves, I use a Frey 2 power cord from the Base into the wall, standard power cords into the Base. There are dedicated grounding cables from each component into the Kore The difference before and after with my system was dramatic--much better detail and imaging. My understanding is that this is due to a sharp improvement in signal/noise. This was apparent immediately, and then repeated with everything I played thereafter. It took my system to a different level.
  14. Nordost QKore/QBase grounding system with single Frey 2 power cable to wall
  15. Very excited to hear how the MC1502 will compare to the MC275. The MC2152 was gorgeous but it's footprint (28" deep!) a nonstarter. This is much more doable at a slim 21" 😊
  16. An impressive selection of gear, though a couple of things give me pause. I am not sure why you'd order a D1100. Since you already have a C1100, I'd get a killer non-Mc DAC instead. I would not order a MEN220 right out of the gate--it will not necessarily improve your sound, it may make it less engaging on balance (it did with my system. I'd get everything else first, live with the system for a few months, then consider the MEN220 after you understand your baseline.
  17. Very excited to see how this develops! All of the speakers above should produce wonderful sound. If my only objective was sound, and I had no other constraints, I expect that I'd end up with a pair of Wilsons. BUT--the Nautilus will produce magnificent sound and also be a real statement as sculpture. Coincidentally, I was drooling over their looks the other day--absolutely timeless, and I do not say that lightly. My son and his art critic girlfriend were also admiring. To drive these beauties I'm thinking a pair of MC275s, or an MC2152, and a C70. (I have the former driving B
  18. Ironically, the only time I've experienced fatigue was with a very expensive cable between by server and my DAC. You might check this. On building a low fatigue, inexpensive system--I'd go with a stripped down Mac Mini with Amarra, a DAC from Schiit to fit your budget, a $600 amp from Schiit or NAD, and a pair of lower end B&Ws or KEFs for $1K or so.
  19. I can only conclude that the subs in question were not set up properly. I agree with your implication that proper set up is essential. I've used two subs over the years. The REL T5 I recommended to the OP was my first, it took me 20 minutes upfront, then a bit of volume tweaking over 3-4 days to get it just right. My second was a B&W DB3D matched with 805s. The iPhone app and DSP made this a snap--maybe 5-10 minutes, plus a couple of volume tweaks after that.
  20. I think you missed one of the key points in my post, and another--we are not advocating a sub for overpowering bass, but rather for the weight and feel they will give all of the instruments, this is an absolute must for rock. You might read the REL website--their propaganda is correct. Also, if you check my AS profile, you'll see that I share your affinity for both monitors and tubes. I agree that 2 subs might be too much for a small room, and it definitely adds to the complexity. But like Sam-I-Am, I only suggest you try it
  21. Two thoughts: First, I concur with the earlier recommendation on a subwoofer. The KEF's are fine speakers, but like all monitors, they will not rock without a sub--as you've experienced. A REL T5 would fit your punch above weight philosophy for about $600. You'll be stunned by the improvement, not just at the low end, but at the heft provided to all instruments. With a good well integrated sub, you will not hear the difference as much as feel it. Second, before you lock yourself into my advice or any other plan, get a local dealer to loan you the sub (or DAC if you
  22. I have 1000 CDs ripped to SSD, and I have saved them in a single CD shelving unit from Amazon that takes up virtually no space in the basement. I do not stream when a CD is available to purchase. My take is that I don't want to chance any of this--the CD is at least as good as any 16/44 download, and it costs me nothing to save it
  23. Hi Dan--You and Bliss saved me a ton of time with Album Cover Finder a couple of years ago--thanks!
  24. Before you buy, make sure to try wired first. There's a dramatic sacrifice in sound quality with Bluetooth. Good luck!
  25. If we strip away the pretense, being an audiophile is prioritizing sound quality above all else in your selection and set up of components. So why don't most audiophiles purchase active speakers? They prefer the sound of certain passive speakers/amps in their price range to the sound of the actives. While there may be very good active speakers at many price ranges, those who prefer the sound of B&W (800 line), Wilson, Magico, SF and many other high end speakers don't really have active choices available to them
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