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SJK

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  1. And that’s why years ago I decided to record all of my LPs. I have a Korg MR-2000S that records at 1 bit/5.66 MHz to an internal drive. Transfer the files to a computer, run the single file from the recording through the Korg Audiogate converter to create a 24/96 FLAC file, or leave it as DSD, then into VinylStudio for track breaks and titles, cover art and any crackle/hiss/rumble/eq filters you might want to use. It’s a lot of work initially to develop the experience and a logical workflow, after that you simply record any album when it’s being played. i added a field to my database for Recorded - Y/N, but sometimes forgot to update. The fallback was a package of blue stick-on inventory dots from Staples, I install one in the top left corner of the album jacket plastic sleeve. At a glance I can tell if it’s been recorded or not. if you ever want to get into this let me know and I can give you a full rundown on tips tricks and pitfalls. Edit: Korg MR-2000S is no longer being made but used and NOS are available at great peices. This is something you would use to digitally record your final two track album before sending it to the manufacturing plant for CD or LP pressing.
  2. I just went through a significant change to our system. I had just sold my Bryston BDA-2 and BDP-2 to finance a PS Audio DSJ. Then I had the option of trading my Musical Fidelity Nu-Vista 800 integrated along with the Nu-Vista Vinyl for a Devialet 440 Pro system which comes with a great digital stage, as that's the heart of the digital signal processor. I sold the PS Audio that I had owned for only a couple of months and this is what I'm left with. The custom made rock maple stereo stand that I had made is no longer needed, this is a nice compact unit from Quadraspire. The room and the kitchen beside are being renovated, so the stereo gets moved around so that I can paint, etc. That's why the KEF Blades are on pieces of indoor/outdoor carpet (carpet side down) instead of the spikes so they can easily slide around. Edit: Added Equipment List Turntable light is from Amazon, a TaoTronics LED Desk Lamp Clearaudio Innovation Compact turntable with Universal tonearm, VTA lifter and Dynavector Te Kaitora Rua Korg MR-2000S Digital Recorder Devialet Expert Pro 440 system, configured as monoblocks for a total of 440 W per channel APC 115BLK power converter, really a constant voltage supply with surge suppression KEF Blade speakers I play from the laptop using an attached 2 TB USB drive. Software is JRiver Media Center, controlled remotely by iPad with JRemote.
  3. You've obviously noticed the lack of response. Your question is just too open ended. People can respond in detail but this is more of a "Should I have chicken or fish for supper?" The answer is whatever you like, and it's the same for the standalone or the DAC/Amplifier combo. You don't mention what source you will be using for your music, and what quality that might be. That will make a difference in whatever anyone recommends.
  4. I had the Black and the Red, my wife and I alternated until she decided the Black was better for her. We both had nothing but trouble with them. With JRiver and Windows 10 there was nothing but interruptions, dropouts, clicking and buzzing or just no sound. I fooled around with them off and on for a year or so and finally gave up. I gave away the Red to a friend, I think the Black is hanging around somewhere. And, you know, I'm not sure that I even need one anymore. I noticed that whatever DAC chip is being used in my Dell laptop at work or at home seems to be essentially equivalent to the sound quality from the DragonFly. Of course, that still leaves a big market for people with portable devices etc. but after all the struggling that the Red and Black put me through I've had it with those gizmos.
  5. I’m doing some scientific testing on the most suitable means of isolation from micro- vibration. This is with the correct medium to “float” my DAC to ensure those bits and bytes don’t get contaminated by any vibration whatsoever. These are the results so far. Hot Lava: I really thought one of those space blankets from Army Surplus would do the trick to keep the DAC away from the molten rock, but jeeze louise, what a freakin’ mess that made. Magnetic Levitation: I very cleverly removed the electrical meter, bored a hole through the back of the housing into the house and installed a 200 amp bypass to a levitation coil I wound around a hardwood form in the living room. In all fairness, I would have to call this an unmitigated and abject failure. The cats hated it. The buzzing was so loud you couldn’t hear anything else and the fridge ended up in the loving room. Cirque de Soleil Solution: Ropes! What could be simpler? Should have thought of that in the first place! I crawled up into the attic, drilled holes through the drywall into the living room and dropped down four 1/2” wire ropes (stainless of course) clamped to the rafters. I then suspended a platform from the wire ropes to support the all important DAC. Did not make one bit of difference. Wife is upset with the mess in the living room. She just doesn’t understand. Pool of Mercury: You know, I think I just might be onto something here. Get a big tote, fill it with liquid mercury and just float everything in that. Yeah, I know, it’s toxic, but i wasn’t planning on drinking the stuff. I “took” all they had from the local high schools but that just isn’t very much. I hear they use the stuff in Alaska mining for gold. Got a trip booked for this weekend to check it out. Stay tuned.....
  6. For goodness sake. Can we stop with this sophomoric nonsense about micro vibrations and putting our DAC in a puddle of freaking water. Give it a rest. Stop feeding the troll. You don’t need NASA to tell you that a liquid is a better conductor of sound and vibration than a gas! Stop with the pseudoscience, and go back to your comics.
  7. Simple and practical for me. I was living in the black maple forest with numerous power outages. Not wanting to spike all the stereo with a power surge, some means of protection was needed. Being an electrical designer and r&d person I knew that your average power bar with a 15 cent 135 VAC MOV across the input wasn’t going to do it. At the same time, I wasn’t going to run the house full time on the natural gas generator. There has to be something in between and there is. I settled on an APC power converter, I think a 115BLK, it was around $250 at the time. I see they’re no longer available, the new ones have a battery backup and more cost. A lot of people say “But Stephen, aren’t you concerned with that power converter polluting your stereo sound?” My answer is “No, not even a little bit.” I would rather have thousands of dollars of stereo equipment in playable condition that have a “pure” system. I shake my head in astonishment at people who never turn off their gear, and proudly explain that’s what the manufacturer wants you to do.
  8. Yes, but it’s more than that. Firstly, I was concerned about Class D amps as I have no experience with them. The goal initially was to find a smaller and more capable integrated amplifier than that super sized Nu-Vista 800. Then I discovered that the Devialet digitizes all inputs and with a DSP is able to act as a phono stage, DAC, preamp and amp with wifi and internet connectivity. Obviously, it’s still all about the sound. The Devialet overall has a better balance, presence and a much improved and bigger soundstage than the previous system. Yes, a lot of the soundstage is down to the output stage, but I can hear details from high resolution FLAC files that I haven’t before. I would rate the Devialet DAC section at perhaps slightly better than the DSJ, but with the ability to tailor the output based on a speaker profile with their configurator I can just get that much more out of the whole system.
  9. Of course you may ask. I’ve just sold a PS Audio DirectStream Junior as well as a Musical Fidelity Nu-Vista Vinyl phono stage and Nu-Vista 800 integrated for a Devialet Expert Pro 440. i’ve had a lot of analog gear over the years with pointed feet, recently with both Musical Fidelity units, but will admit I’ve never seen them on any DAC I’ve ever owned. My Clearaudio Innovation Compact turntable is the only piece of gear with them now. Oh, and the speakers, but I took those off while tweaking their position.
  10. I should have elaborated in greater detail. My point was that while your assumption of the differences that power supplies or cables could possibly make is your experience with your system. For any other system with innumerable variables those conditions would not necessarily hold true. And, my intent was not to insult your headphones. Yes, I have a pair of older Grado RS1e’s that I use rarely. I think I prefer speakers as a sound source, but do have the room for a decent setup.
  11. I guess I should hang out here more often, I’ve never heard of mechanical vibration affecting solid state chips. Pressure, sure - vibration? That’s a new one. But you’re talking about a transport mechanism, meaning a CD player, not a DAC! Either way, I’m not taking my stereo apart to put the DAC on the floor, and then wonder if there’s anything different other than where it is, but I will take your word for it. Wow on a turntable - yes, I stand corrected, I just haven’t heard that with reference to belt drive turntables in some decades now, belt drive has come a long ways. But I’m struggling to think of how belt slip could be that bad and not be highly noticeable. Goodness, you can get an RPM app for your iPhone that will give an accurate speed indication if you don’t trust your ears.
  12. How does mechanical feedback to a softly sprung turntable relate to an electronic processor? I was under the impression that jitter was a timing function, and one dealt with by making sure the only clock used was the one specific to the playback device. Turntables don’t experience wow - wow and flutter was a tape thing related to poor tape speed control.
  13. Wait a minute. Looking at your equipment list, you don’t even own a stereo system. You have a headphone amplifier and a mid-range pair of headphones. Nothing wrong with that, but I’m not convinced that your system is able of resolving any subtle nuances that a cable change could make. Am I missing something?
  14. I would think you would go with the retail price, should it still be a current model. That’s how you establish worth - by what it would cost to replace it.
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