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Building an Unregulated Linear Power Supply


elan120

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1 hour ago, Gavin1977 said:

These Mundorf lugs )MCONCL.R60-6,5G) are solid and I’m not sure how well they’d crimp without the right tool - any suggestions?

Hi @Gavin1977

 

I used the same Mundorf lugs. Refer to this post for pics. 
https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/58164-building-a-diy-music-server/?do=findComment&comment=1176238

 

and to this post for details of specific crimping tool used. 

https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/58164-building-a-diy-music-server/?do=findComment&comment=1176238

 

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On 11/14/2023 at 12:06 PM, AngeloVRA said:

hi Gavin,

 

Molex makes 2 types of terminal pins..... One for 18AWG, another for 16AWG

molex.thumb.jpeg.a3e15c63dd5ab4e5c4a4089d6028893f.jpeg

I am looking at the Molik crimp terminals that I have and when I look at the spec sheet, they look the same although the identification number is different. They are the same gauge and have gold connectors, but just for reference I wonder how they are different?image.thumb.jpg.fd044bd256dc9d1a0736b127dc575128.jpgimage.thumb.jpg.eb55a19a997803209ac0d28ba70aa48a.jpg

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I went searching to see if I had the tool to crimp the braised seam ring terminals and sadly I do not so I will have to buy one.
But, I found this tool, which looks like it is to crimp the Molik terminals, but I do not know how to use it. I cannot even figure out how to open it. And there is a part that is screwed on, but I cannot determine what to do with that either.image.thumb.jpg.0240177027c0cad452cd83a437f6c7d5.jpg

image.jpg

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On 12/4/2023 at 7:39 AM, AngeloVRA said:

You are second link is the same as the first, so it does not show the tool you used.
 

Also, these are the ring terminals I have. The bigger one came from the box, so it is 12-10 AWG, Do you know the gauge size for the smaller ring terminal?

I am assuming that the tool will indicate which section to use for which size terminal.

 

Thank you  DJWimage.thumb.jpg.1d1b8a9e87e35ee2d81c2cc2dd204ce9.jpg

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the screw on part is likely the piece that determines which size connector you can crimp. Typically the crip tools only open after they have been fully closed.

ISP, glass to Fritz!box 5530, another Fritz!box 5530 for audio only in bridged mode on LPS, cat8.1, Zyxel switch on LPS, Finisar <1475BTL>Solarflare X2522-25G, external wifi AP, AMD 9 16 core, passive cooling ,Aorus Master x570, LPSU with Taiko ATX, 8Gb Apacer RAM, femto SSD on LPS, Pink Faun I2S ultra OCXO on akiko LPS, home grown RJ45 I2S cable, Metrum Adagio DAC3, RCA 70-A and Miyaima Zero for mono, G2 PL519 tube amps. 

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You were right about the tool, I squeezed it harder, and it did open up.
I am curious about that part that is screwed on, because I do not see how to replace any other part of this tool.

There is no manufacturer stamped on it. But it does say made in USA twice. It looks to have a model number - A-MP 

on the other side, it says 22 -18 Type F.  I assume those are the wire gauge I can use with it.
Does that mean  I cannot use it with the 16 gauge Oyaide 102SSC wire I have, that I plan to use with the 24 pin connector on my sage, clone server, coming out of the Taiko ATX?

 

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IF the crimp tool has a Molex insert you can use it, the pins under that piece of hose on one arm of the pliers appear to be something like Molex pins...

 

There is a multitude of crimp connectors and most of them require either a dedicated crimp tool or dedicated beaks....guess what, it gets expensive real fast also because manufacturers want you to stick with their connectors ( the disposables is where they make money).

 

JUst search YT and you'll find demo's about crimping Molex pins, see how it works and sacrifice a few pins and some cheap wire...it took me a good 10-15 test runs before I got everything right and that was with a known good crimp tool in the proper size.

ISP, glass to Fritz!box 5530, another Fritz!box 5530 for audio only in bridged mode on LPS, cat8.1, Zyxel switch on LPS, Finisar <1475BTL>Solarflare X2522-25G, external wifi AP, AMD 9 16 core, passive cooling ,Aorus Master x570, LPSU with Taiko ATX, 8Gb Apacer RAM, femto SSD on LPS, Pink Faun I2S ultra OCXO on akiko LPS, home grown RJ45 I2S cable, Metrum Adagio DAC3, RCA 70-A and Miyaima Zero for mono, G2 PL519 tube amps. 

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if the connector fits a bigger crimping tool is better :-)

 

The more pressure you can exert on the connector and wire the better they'll 'melt' together, following the good old adagio 'everything becomes liquid under pressure'

ISP, glass to Fritz!box 5530, another Fritz!box 5530 for audio only in bridged mode on LPS, cat8.1, Zyxel switch on LPS, Finisar <1475BTL>Solarflare X2522-25G, external wifi AP, AMD 9 16 core, passive cooling ,Aorus Master x570, LPSU with Taiko ATX, 8Gb Apacer RAM, femto SSD on LPS, Pink Faun I2S ultra OCXO on akiko LPS, home grown RJ45 I2S cable, Metrum Adagio DAC3, RCA 70-A and Miyaima Zero for mono, G2 PL519 tube amps. 

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1 minute ago, AngeloVRA said:

Hi @drjimwillie

 

No matter how big and powerful the tool,  the pressure being applied is limited by the size of the die…for 14AWG, once the lug is compressed to 14AWG, the die “bottoms out” and no additional pressure  is transferred to the lug ( e.g.  you can not make it smaller by applying more hydraulic pressure. )
 

You can use that hydraulic crimper but it could get awkward to handle. 
 

totally correct, yet the 'lesser' crimping tools (20-40 USD) do not bottom out, they tend to bend out... ;-)

 

ISP, glass to Fritz!box 5530, another Fritz!box 5530 for audio only in bridged mode on LPS, cat8.1, Zyxel switch on LPS, Finisar <1475BTL>Solarflare X2522-25G, external wifi AP, AMD 9 16 core, passive cooling ,Aorus Master x570, LPSU with Taiko ATX, 8Gb Apacer RAM, femto SSD on LPS, Pink Faun I2S ultra OCXO on akiko LPS, home grown RJ45 I2S cable, Metrum Adagio DAC3, RCA 70-A and Miyaima Zero for mono, G2 PL519 tube amps. 

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I am thinking of "upgrading" my v1 to v"1.5" ;-) adding a second cap and a choke. 

As coil I would use the original  Hammond 159ZJ and as a cap a second Cornell 56000 uF.

Do you guys think this is SAFE (and meaningful)? My trafo is a 250VA toroidy and I dont have a softstart...

 

image.thumb.jpeg.da09d0fe9c6d0026beea9d7e0887efb0.jpeg

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  • 2 months later...

Hi, I`m planning to build the V3 with some replacements
For the chokes I will use the Mundorfs vn180-10
I plane to use a 400watt transformer, so I hope the mundorfs are strong enough

By the way, can someone explain what the chokes are doing for the ulps (task)

 

Thanks all for contributing to this thread - so I feel confident do build a ULPS

ISP, glass to Fritz!box 5530 on LPS, cat 8(SOTM)  to SOTM Switch, all other internet behind a other switch, Fiber  to Melco S100 Switch modified with Pink Faun OCXO Ultra, Fiber to DIY-Server with Solarflare x2522 Nic, JCAT USB XE with JCAT OCXO, Sinopure USB Cabel to Mola Mola Tambaqui, Transparent Interconnect to Holo Audio Bliss (as preamp) SPL S800 power amp feeding a Hifiman Susvara

All Switches and JCAT USB XE (Card and OCXO) powered by LPS (Plixir)

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