DIY Project High Performance Audio PC with high quality wiring

[StreamFidelity]

The fis Audio PC fits my equipment quite well.

 

 

The next chapter comes:

 

2.2 Operating system

 

Opinions differ on the operating system. There are countless opinions on this. And even if the operating system of choice has been found, there are many versions and even more implementation and administration options. I tried a few things, but not most of them. Either it failed because of the knowledge, but much more because of the lack of time and also because of my ability to suffer.

 

I use Windows because I am very familiar with it. Windows has the big advantage for me that it is widespread. This means that updates and drivers are always available very quickly. I tried Windows Server 2019. It's very close to Windows 10 from the user interface. Stripped down with the Audiophile Optimizer 3.00 and in the shell replacement, it was very good in terms of sound. But ASUS RAMCache III was not running, I discarded this solution and went back to Windows 10 Pro. I also thought about a RAM boot solution during installation. And I also thought about installing an already stripped down Windows. There are tools like NTLite or WinReducer. I think it's a very clever approach.

 

The question I asked myself was how much time do I want to spend studying and trying out? I decided: none at all. My opinion can change at some point. With this project I follow the pragmatic approach:

 

- Install Windows 10 Pro via USB stick
- reduce with Audiophile Optimizer 3.00
- manual tuning

 

2.2.1 Install Windows 10 Pro via USB stick

 

I love simple solutions and that's one. Simply download the Media Creation Tool from Microsoft, insert a USB stick and let the program do everything for you. Finished! The USB stick is then bootable. During the installation I avoid logging in with the Microsoft account (it works without it) and deny all questions for better support such as voice control, etc.

 

When the installation is finished, I will set up remote access next. For remote control, I use my iMac and use Microsoft Remote Desktop Beta. When setting up, you must select Play sound: "On the remote PC". Otherwise there will be no sound from the speakers during the remote session.

 

After that, the latest updates and drivers should be loaded. This is very easy with Windows Update. Then the test is carried out in the Windows device manager. If all menu trees are closed as in the picture below everything is fine.

 

 

After successful setup, at least 140 processes are active. Far too much for audio operation. More on that later.

 

 

[kelvinwsy]

4 hours ago, StreamFidelity said:

The fis Audio PC fits my equipment quite well.

 

 

The next chapter comes:

 

2.2 Operating system

 

Opinions differ on the operating system. There are countless opinions on this. And even if the operating system of choice has been found, there are many versions and even more implementation and administration options. I tried a few things, but not most of them. Either it failed because of the knowledge, but much more because of the lack of time and also because of my ability to suffer.

 

I use Windows because I am very familiar with it. Windows has the big advantage for me that it is widespread. This means that updates and drivers are always available very quickly. I tried Windows Server 2019. It's very close to Windows 10 from the user interface. Stripped down with the Audiophile Optimizer 3.00 and in the shell replacement, it was very good in terms of sound. But ASUS RAMCache III was not running, I discarded this solution and went back to Windows 10 Pro. I also thought about a RAM boot solution during installation. And I also thought about installing an already stripped down Windows. There are tools like NTLite or WinReducer. I think it's a very clever approach.

 

The question I asked myself was how much time do I want to spend studying and trying out? I decided: none at all. My opinion can change at some point. With this project I follow the pragmatic approach:

 

- Install Windows 10 Pro via USB stick
- reduce with Audiophile Optimizer 3.00
- manual tuning

 

2.2.1 Install Windows 10 Pro via USB stick

 

I love simple solutions and that's one. Simply download the Media Creation Tool from Microsoft, insert a USB stick and let the program do everything for you. Finished! The USB stick is then bootable. During the installation I avoid logging in with the Microsoft account (it works without it) and deny all questions for better support such as voice control, etc.

 

When the installation is finished, I will set up remote access next. For remote control, I use my iMac and use Microsoft Remote Desktop Beta. When setting up, you must select Play sound: "On the remote PC". Otherwise there will be no sound from the speakers during the remote session.

 

After that, the latest updates and drivers should be loaded. This is very easy with Windows Update. Then the test is carried out in the Windows device manager. If all menu trees are closed as in the picture below everything is fine.

 

 

After successful setup, at least 140 processes are active. Far too much for audio operation. More on that later.

 

 

On my system I can get it down to 40 process with HQPLayer 3 running. 140 on WIn 10 Pro - Too much impact on SQ in IMHO.. 

[kelvinwsy]

Sorry I mean I am using Win Server 2019 

[StreamFidelity]

5 hours ago, kelvinwsy said:

On my system I can get it down to 40 process with HQPLayer 3 running.

 

It is very good. Are you using Windows Server 2019 Core or Desktop? Do you use remote control?

[StreamFidelity]

1.10 PC and DC cables

 

An intermediate status to the PC / ATX cable. When Bernd designs new cables, he does it very thoroughly. It will therefore take another 1-2 weeks before PC / ATX cables are available for testing.

 

I think some of Bernd's considerations are really good. For example, he plans to use different cables for pin assignments. Because there are different currents and voltage. All cables used are "heard by direction" and are also assembled in this way. He ordered different types of Molex connectors. The Molex plugs with the inserted pin contacts are basically too shaky for him. He is planning a wobble-free connection.

 

The gold-plated Molex pins have already arrived. They can take up to 20 AWG wires.

 

[Linmon]

On 3/4/2020 at 12:52 PM, StreamFidelity said:

The fis Audio PC fits my equipment quite well.

 

 

 

 

 

Ver nice, I assume is HDPLEX?  Did you build this with two (dual PC) motherboards inside? Would love to see a pic of the components if possible.  

 

I'm still trying to figure out to make one piece unit or build dual PC, not made up my mind yet.  

 

I may need a bit more guidence on component choices, This forum is full of great info.

 

Thanks

[Nenon]

On 3/5/2020 at 8:13 AM, StreamFidelity said:

All cables used are "heard by direction" and are also assembled in this way.

If you determine the "right" direction for the plus, do you reverse the direction on the minus cable?

 

On 3/5/2020 at 8:13 AM, StreamFidelity said:

The Molex plugs with the inserted pin contacts are basically too shaky for him. He is planning a wobble-free connection.

The Molex branded housing is actually better than some third party ones. I was considering filling in with epoxy, but I haven't found an easy way to do that. It would be interesting to know what your approach would be.

[Blackmorec]

Are you sure that some pin movement isn’t actually desirable to assure a closer fit for each pin?  If all the pins are firmly anchored then the pin to socket alignment has to be VERY precise and there’ll always be slight inaccuracies, whereas when the pins can ‘float’ a little, the pin to socket become self-aligning and can be really tight. The critical fit is pin to pin socket, not pin to pin ‘holder’. 

 

Also on the subject of cable directionality.....in my experience, it’s cable burn-in that actually finally sets directionality. Cables should be marked for directionality because once burned in, one direction does sound superior, but I’m not sure it matters which direction sounds superior for a new cable, given that the burn-in completely changes the cable. 

[Solstice380]

17 hours ago, Nenon said:

I was considering filling in with epoxy

 

Maybe electrical grade silicone caulk?  https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electronic-Grade-Silicone/dp/B07MKBBQTC

[kelvinwsy]

On 3/5/2020 at 3:27 PM, StreamFidelity said:

 

It is very good. Are you using Windows Server 2019 Core or Desktop? Do you use remote control?

Core - Very basic - Everything is switched off. Just using Taskmgr to control processes.

Just another comment. I use Corsair cables with the inline capacitators to tame the power induced distortions. It is also 18ga AWG!!

 

[StreamFidelity]

Sorry for the late reply. I am still on vacation. I will talk to Bernd about cable construction next week. Then I will be able to answer the questions.

 

A new topic:

2.2.2 Audiophile Optimizer (AO) 3.00

 

There is a lot to read here: Highend AudioPC (Sponsored).

 

I'm using AO to slim down the Windows 10 Pro.

 

After the installation there are two new objects on the desktop. The optimization is started with the AudiophileOptimizer. The user interface corresponds to the simple DOS format. 😄Confirmation is made with the required letters. First there are warnings.

 

 

After the operating system has been checked, an important note comes up. Optimizing an Office PC makes little sense. But it is possible. Only then some things might not work as expected. It is best if the Audio PC has no other tasks than playing music.

 

 

The next menu offers three options. I recommend (U) ltimate mode, so enter "U". Don't worry, the program always queries the selection and makes recommendations. You can't really go wrong. But you should read carefully.

 

 

After everything has been run through, the PC boots automatically. Then around 30 processes (depending on the selection) should run less. The ServiceTool is available for further optimization. Let's get to the most important one straight away: The optimization previously carried out can be undone with A) Reset. I find [(F) Autologon very useful. The Audio PC starts automatically and is not stopped by a registration.

 

(S) Strip Down Windows 10 is used to reduce more processes. I also like to use (E) Shell Replacement. This switches off the graphics drivers and you get a black screen. With the Shell Replacement you can also select automatically starting programs so that the Audio PC is immediately ready to play without manual intervention. If you still want to change something on the PC, you have to use the Task Manager. This is called up with press keyboard Ctrl + Alt + Del simultaneously. There is no Del key on the Mac keyboard. In this case, hold down fn + control + option and click on Backspace (delete arrow "x" on the Mac keyboard at the top right). The required programs can be started manually in the Task Manager with the "Run new task" file. With a click on "Search" the Windows Explorer is activated and the programs can be searched. Here you should know where the programs are stored.

 

 

With the Shell replacement, there are only around 80 active processes left.

 

The story will continue soon to kill more processes. 😉

[Triplefun]

Did you consider a build based on  the AMD Ryzen 9 3950x with 16 cores (32 threads) at 3.5 ghz and only 105w tdp - runs a LOT cooler than the i9 9900k.

[Triplefun]

Did you consider a build based on  the AMD Ryzen 9 3950x with 16 cores (32 threads) at 3.5 ghz and only 105w tdp - runs a LOT cooler than the i9 9900k, especially when you undervolt the CPU.

 

also i know its been discussed elsewhere but could you please try running daphile loaded from a USB stick for doing DSD512 upsampling. It runs from RAM, does NOT change your windows settings, and is simple to setup. I would be interested to get your opinion on the differences to HQPlayer. A lot of people when testing daphile are usually using a low spec PC and rarely venture into the DSD upsampling.

[StreamFidelity]

11 hours ago, Triplefun said:

Did you consider a build based on  the AMD Ryzen 9 3950x with 16 cores (32 threads) at 3.5 ghz and only 105w tdp - runs a LOT cooler than the i9 9900k.

 

AMD Ryzen 9 3950x with overclocking max. 4,7GHz is very interesting. AMD has wroten: Liquid Cooling Recommended. This is probably meant at full load. Experience with HQPlayer would be interesting. I haven't read much positive things yet about AMD Ryzen CPUs.

[StreamFidelity]

On 3/11/2020 at 5:37 PM, StreamFidelity said:

With the Shell replacement, there are only around 80 active processes left.

 

 

Building on that, it continues. 🙂

 

2.2.3 Switching off unnecessary services

 

While previous optimizations were largely without deep PC knowledge, this chapter requires more attention. If you click on the "Services" tab in the Windows Task Manager, you will see all existing services. The services that are running are interesting. Sorting is possible by clicking on "Status". Not all running services are needed.

 

I like to use regedit.exe. Take a look in Per-user services in Windows 10 and Windows Server . The start entry is set to "4" = Disabled.

 

At the moment I have switched off the following services (be careful to do that):

AppXSvc

cbdhsvc

CDPUserSvc

TabletInputService

FDResPub

OneSyncSvc

UsoSvc

PlugPlay

LanmanServer

DoSvc

QWAVE

WpnUserService

wscsvc

WinHttpAutoProxySvc

wcncsvc

TokenBroker

StateRepository

SgrmBroker

mpssvc

cplspcon

cphs

jhi_service

igfxCUIService

LMS

BDESVC

SENS

DusmSvc

ShellHWDetection

 

More services can be switched off if Remote Control is not used. I currently have 60 processes active.

 

 

Many experts can do much less. In my experience, less is not the same as better. After every optimization, I therefore conduct a test with LatencyMon This is free software for private purposes and very reliably indicates malfunctions of, for example, faulty drivers during audio playback. For me, everything is green with extremely low latencies.

 

[Nenon]

14 hours ago, Triplefun said:

the AMD Ryzen 9 3950x with 16 cores (32 threads) at 3.5 ghz and only 105w tdp - runs a LOT cooler than the i9 9900k

 

Is that true? Can you share more info about it? I am not that interested in reducing the CPU voltage... but even if it is running as hot as the i9 9900K, not "a LOT cooler" that would be really good. 

My recollection was that @romaz had to disable the turbo, significantly reduce the CPU frequency, and possibly reduce the voltage on the AMD Ryzen 9 3950x in a Streacom FC9 chassis to keep it relatively cool. At that point I would stick to the AMD Ryzen 7 3700x actually. 

But I would be interested to know where you got that datapoint from. 

[Triplefun]

4 hours ago, Nenon said:

 

Is that true? Can you share more info about it? I am not that interested in reducing the CPU voltage... but even if it is running as hot as the i9 9900K, not "a LOT cooler" that would be really good. 

My recollection was that @romaz had to disable the turbo, significantly reduce the CPU frequency, and possibly reduce the voltage on the AMD Ryzen 9 3950x in a Streacom FC9 chassis to keep it relatively cool. At that point I would stick to the AMD Ryzen 7 3700x actually. 

But I would be interested to know where you got that datapoint from. 

see

 

 

and 

 

https://www.techspot.com/review/1940-amd-ryzen-9-3950x/

 

 

[sandyk]

On 3/7/2020 at 9:47 AM, Nenon said:

The Molex branded housing is actually better than some third party ones. I was considering filling in with epoxy, but I haven't found an easy way to do that. It would be interesting to know what your approach would be.

 

 I used to think the same, but Blacmorec's post 83 makes sense, especially if using gold plated Molex pins with their leads soldered;

[Nenon]

2 minutes ago, sandyk said:

 

 I used to think the same, but Blacmorec's post 83 makes sense, especially if using gold plated Molex pins with their leads soldered;

 

I agree as well. Gold plated Molex pins first crimped and then soldered with WBT silver solder is what I do. 

[WilliamWykeham]

All parts have arrived and I’m nearing completion.  I plan a full recap of the assembly process and a review once done but am stuck on two things:

 

1 - How to connect the Keces P8 to the 6 pin DC power intake on the HDPlex 400W DC-ATX.  Imagine I need a cable or an adapter, however I can’t find anything online.  Am trying to avoid having to make any cables myself as I have no experience.  Once I do get the correct cable or adapter, how should I route this into the computer? Should I send it through the back plate where the AC cable plug would otherwise go?

 

 2 - (less important) Looks like the plate in the back that holds the AC plug may not have correct sized holes, although possible I am doing something incorrectly.  All other parts have matches perfectly so far. I am using the screws with attached washers all of which are a different color than those in the manual.  Do I even need this plate if I’m using the Keces? 
 

 

 

[Iving]

45 minutes ago, WilliamWykeham said:

How to connect the Keces P8 to the 6 pin DC power intake on the HDPlex 400W DC-ATX.  Imagine I need a cable or an adapter, however I can’t find anything online.  Am trying to avoid having to make any cables myself as I have no experience.  Once I do get the correct cable or adapter, how should I route this into the computer? Should I send it through the back plate where the AC cable plug would otherwise go?

 

Molex P/N is 46992-0610 for 6-pin DC connection to HDPLEX 800W Converter - presume same for 400W.

I don't know of any factory-made products.

I built up a cable per my own design for relay from [19V] SR7 using Mundorf Silver/Gold [per Nenon's suggestion]. By the time it's finished the cable has ideas of its own. Mine in situ pre-arrival of SR7 is here. Hope remarks and photo help.

The hole thru which the built cable passes to the rear of the case is part of a standard HDPLEX ATX plate. Thankfully there is only so much vertical wiggle room so only very little wire strain at the molex connector is possible. Anyway there is a stand outside the case for additional support - taking the most part of the cable's weight - as it traverses towards the rear of the SR7 [when it arrives].

The cable is built from a 4-pin XLR [at the SR7] where Pin 4 is +ve and Pin 1 -ve / 3 yellow wires to Pin 4  + 3 white wires to Pin 1 / start with silver solder inside silver-plated ferrules on pins / solder in wires / shrink over soldered pins / cotton sheath over each set of 3 Mundorf wires / shrink tube over whole length / then very heavy tube copper shield over this soldered to XLR chassis only (not bothered about JSSG) / another shrink tube over / solder Mundorf wires to Molex pins / dress + shrink to terminals - I should have photographed as I went.

I used 1mm Mundorf wire for this cable (as 3 co-connected). I will use 1.5mm for hooking from Converter to mobo.

The case is the vastly underestimated Streacom F12C - neither top nor side mesh panels in place in photo. This case permits the copper cooler you can see - plus full height PCIe cards e.g. in my case Optane memory and ethernet card. You can see there is plenty of room for the 800W Converter. I have side-mounted it [custom holes] even tho' there is room for it to lie horizontally.

[motberg]

2 hours ago, WilliamWykeham said:

All parts have arrived and I’m nearing completion.  I plan a full recap of the assembly process and a review once done but am stuck on two things:

 

1 - How to connect the Keces P8 to the 6 pin DC power intake on the HDPlex 400W DC-ATX.  Imagine I need a cable or an adapter, however I can’t find anything online.  Am trying to avoid having to make any cables myself as I have no experience.  Once I do get the correct cable or adapter, how should I route this into the computer? Should I send it through the back plate where the AC cable plug would otherwise go?

 

 

 

I am pretty sure Ghent can make that for you.... just send him an email...

http://www.ghentaudio.com/pc/hg01.html

 

 

[WilliamWykeham]

8 minutes ago, motberg said:

I am pretty sure Ghent can make that for you.... just send him an email...

http://www.ghentaudio.com/pc/hg01.html

 

 

 

I will likely go this route particularly for internal connections, however if anyone has a domestic supplier for a dc cable that would help me to get up and running faster - looks like long wait from Ghent Audio. 

[StreamFidelity]

20 hours ago, WilliamWykeham said:

1 - How to connect the Keces P8 to the 6 pin DC power intake on the HDPlex 400W DC-ATX.

Bernd is still building the cables. More on that in a moment. My Reference Audio PC previously had the Streacom FC9 Alpha Case. I have converted this PC into the HDPLEX H5 2nd Gen Fanless PC Case. Here I use PCIe dust filters for the passage of two DC cables (top left in the picture).

 

20 hours ago, WilliamWykeham said:

 2 - (less important) Looks like the plate in the back that holds the AC plug may not have correct sized holes, although possible I am doing something incorrectly.

I don't use this hole. So I closed it with a fan dust filter.

 

 

[StreamFidelity]

It is going on. 👍

 

ATX power supply (24-pin)

 

Bernd has finished the first PC / ATX cable. The arrows indicate the direction. The cable is currently being burned in.

 

Here you can see the size ratio of the tiny gold plated Molex contact pins. These are first crimped and then fixed again with silver solder. Quite a lot of work.

 

We also considered leaving out some unnecessary contacts. But it was too risky for us. Perhaps the specifications of new boards will change at some point and then the valuable cable would no longer be usable.

 

Here are some more details:

 

- It is a monocrystalline, high-purity copper, cold drawn, 18 AWG, coated with Dupont PTFE.
- The individual power cables are separated 3.3V, 5V, 12V, Ground

- The cables run in one direction
- When the plugs are plugged in they are very firm. No further cable calming actions are necessary.

 

If you are interested in PC / ATX cables or DC cables made in Germany, you can write to Bernd: [email protected] 😉