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DIY Project High Performance Audio PC with high quality wiring


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8 minutes ago, Iving said:

Replace with:   Solarflare X2522 + RJ45 Transceiver   > ordinary ethernet cable > A Side etherRegen > DDC > DAC

 

Why don't you go into the ER with SFP fiber? This is a perfect galvanic separation and the bandwidth of the X2522 is used without interference.

 

Occupying an SFP port with an RJ45 transceiver is, as far as I know, a bad solution. The transceiver can transmit electrical interference into the copper cable.

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11 minutes ago, StreamFidelity said:

 

Why don't you go into the ER with SFP fiber? This is a perfect galvanic separation and the bandwidth of the X2522 is used without interference.

 

Occupying an SFP port with an RJ45 transceiver is, as far as I know, a bad solution. The transceiver can transmit electrical interference into the copper cable.

 

Well - I not long bought a pricey Sablon ethernet cable for the A Side. I could switch it over to the B Side and sacrifice the cable that is there. Honestly I hadn't thought of what you suggest and, so, thank you.

 

Can you recommend specific products for your recommendation apart from the X2522? We're talking about less than 1m connection - probably c. 75cm.

 

I should add ... RedNet Dante requires a 1Gb network A Side - I expect this is either Auto or Fix in Device Manager/Network Adapter Settings.

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14 minutes ago, Iving said:

Can you recommend specific products for your recommendation apart from the X2522?

 

Transceiver - Startech 1000BASE-EX SFP -SM LC-40KM with FS 2m (7ft) LC UPC to LC UPC Duplex OS2 Single Mode PVC (OFNR) 2.0mm Fiber Optic Patch Cable work very well for me.

 

The fiber optic patch cables are very inexpensive and must not be too short (at least 2m). This is related to the damping factor. Startech also has good cables. It must be yellow cables (Duplex Single Mode), otherwise the laser in the transceiver will not work.

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2 minutes ago, StreamFidelity said:

 

Transceiver - Startech 1000BASE-EX SFP -SM LC-40KM with FS 2m (7ft) LC UPC to LC UPC Duplex OS2 Single Mode PVC (OFNR) 2.0mm Fiber Optic Patch Cable work very well for me.

 

The fiber optic patch cables are very inexpensive and must not be too short (at least 2m). This is related to the damping factor. Startech also has good cables. It must be yellow cables (Duplex Single Mode), otherwise the laser in the transceiver will not work.

 

tyvm

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@Vivling2021, thanks for sharing information... inventive solutions.
But if I understand the schematic, it's to link the audio server under Euphony, directly connected in USB to the dac.
In the end, it is the USB driver that provides the SQ via the JCAT USB card.
But the quality of the audio processing depends on the latency of Euphony.
This is not a server/client scheme (?)

@StreamFidelity, your stream goes back through a Zyxel switch (with store-and-forward buffer) ?
The final SQ also depends on the switch, its power supply and its link to the streamer.

I left out the switches to test the direct connection to my Allo (which also defines the final SQ).
This solution is not sponsored by Jussy but it works.
I send DSD 256 / gauss-xla or PCM 1.412 to the Pegasus via a USBridge SIG under GentooPlayer.
The server under win10 LTSC is otpimized... as much as I can with the chosen hardware (20 windows processes... for the whole, between 34/37 depending on the set of programs and a driver  latency spread over the 6 cores between 0,03 and 0,07)... and yes, the hardest to stabilize is ndis.sys !
Sometimes, it drifts ! 🤪
Then the ethernet flow is sent in IPV6 without intermediary to the streamer. 
I also chose (listening) a mix of ethernet cable with a MED1005 isolator in the middle.

 

In the end the only switch is the server with the dual JCAT Net card (IPV4 in, IPV6 out)

ROON + HQP / Hdplex H3-i5 + 400ATX >Gustard A26 (NAA twk) > SQM > Benchmark AHB2 / Recital Audio Illumine HEFA

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13 hours ago, Zauurx said:

@Vivling2021, thanks for sharing information... inventive solutions.
But if I understand the schematic, it's to link the audio server under Euphony, directly connected in USB to the dac.
In the end, it is the USB driver that provides the SQ via the JCAT USB card.
But the quality of the audio processing depends on the latency of Euphony.
This is not a server/client scheme (?)

@StreamFidelity, your stream goes back through a Zyxel switch (with store-and-forward buffer) ?
The final SQ also depends on the switch, its power supply and its link to the streamer.

I left out the switches to test the direct connection to my Allo (which also defines the final SQ).
This solution is not sponsored by Jussy but it works.
I send DSD 256 / gauss-xla or PCM 1.412 to the Pegasus via a USBridge SIG under GentooPlayer.
The server under win10 LTSC is otpimized... as much as I can with the chosen hardware (20 windows processes... for the whole, between 34/37 depending on the set of programs and a driver  latency spread over the 6 cores between 0,03 and 0,07)... and yes, the hardest to stabilize is ndis.sys !
Sometimes, it drifts ! 🤪
Then the ethernet flow is sent in IPV6 without intermediary to the streamer. 
I also chose (listening) a mix of ethernet cable with a MED1005 isolator in the middle.

 

In the end the only switch is the server with the dual JCAT Net card (IPV4 in, IPV6 out)

You are welcome, it is a one box solution, there is only one computer installed with both Solarflare and JCAT USB. I believe my cascade of switches(Buffalo GS2016 and Mikrotik 10G powered by LPSU) connected via optical fiber already provide signals with good isolation and timing to the computer.  While audiophile switches, server switches(two box solution) could provide signals with same good quality, they usually cost 5-10 times more. I think in most cases it is hard to justify the cost. 

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2 hours ago, StreamFidelity said:

In my opinion, a switch benefits the most from
- an improved clock
- a linear power supply
- a galvanic separation

 

This cannot be achieved with a standard switch.

Thank you for this information.

I'm agree.
I also tweaked one of my two Meraki's and then simplified... for now!
I have not added a clock and I think that is the element that may justify putting a switch back into my system.
It's been discussed at length on the French forum I follow.
The more experienced are currently exploring Diretta... I'm sticking with my schema for the moment.

 

You tried a direct solution like mine ? 

JCAT Net : Eth1 --> ROON (IPV4)
                 Eth2 --> (IPV4) HQP (IPV6) --> USBridge

 

spacer.png

ROON + HQP / Hdplex H3-i5 + 400ATX >Gustard A26 (NAA twk) > SQM > Benchmark AHB2 / Recital Audio Illumine HEFA

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On 8/11/2021 at 3:36 AM, Vivling2021 said:

The Solarflare X2522 is powered directly from LPSU... 

 

... It sounds wonderful... This is perhaps the first Solarflare X2522 powered externally by LPSU on this forum, this would reduce noise generated by the card going to the motherboard.  I think it would beat most copper based NIC solutions many times more expensive. 

 

That sounds really, really great. 

Thanks for sharing! 

 

My Solareflare get its power still from the motherboard - and I want to change this... 

 

You mentioned, that you use a riser cable with a sata connector. And this is connected to your hdplex (dc-atx) pcie port. 

But there, at the hdplex, is as I know only 12V, and the sata connector has 12V and 5V. 

 

How did you solve this? 

Is "12V only" sufficient for the Solareflare? 

 

Did you hear a change in SQ? 

 

Have a nice day, 

Erwin 

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2 hours ago, erwinmitg said:

My Solareflare get its power still from the motherboard - and I want to change this... 

 

You mentioned, that you use a riser cable with a sata connector.

 

I would be careful with riser cables. I don't know of any riser cable of reasonable quality. Instead, you get a ribbon cable with a low cross-section, dubious conductor quality and insufficient insulation. I'm afraid you get more interference than you increase SQ with the separate power supply.

 

With a Taiko Audio 500W DC DC-ATX converter, the power of the mainboard and the PCIe cards connected to it are massively upgraded. It is expensive but a very good alternative.

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19 hours ago, erwinmitg said:

That sounds really, really great. 

Thanks for sharing! 

 

My Solareflare get its power still from the motherboard - and I want to change this... 

 

You mentioned, that you use a riser cable with a sata connector. And this is connected to your hdplex (dc-atx) pcie port. 

But there, at the hdplex, is as I know only 12V, and the sata connector has 12V and 5V. 

 

How did you solve this? 

Is "12V only" sufficient for the Solareflare? 

 

Did you hear a change in SQ? 

 

Have a nice day, 

Erwin 

Thanks! As you can see from the photos. I use a riser cable with 6 pin 12V power input that takes power directly from ATX Teradak LPSU.  I make sure the riser cable is as short as possible(20cm) and shielded to reduce interference as much as possible.  I think even though the riser cable may pick up some some noise, it is less noise than putting the entire card inside the computer box so close to the motherboard. Notice that the 12V input is directly from LPSU, not from a DC-ATX board which still has a SMPS in it. Of course I would imagine Taiko DC-ATX may sound better, but you would need pay much more.  I haven't done a comparison, as my fanless Streacom box is too small for both PCI-e card inside, and the heat from solarflare may turn it into a oven, degrading the sound quality.

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20 hours ago, StreamFidelity said:

 

I would be careful with riser cables. I don't know of any riser cable of reasonable quality. Instead, you get a ribbon cable with a low cross-section, dubious conductor quality and insufficient insulation. I'm afraid you get more interference than you increase SQ with the separate power supply.

 

With a Taiko Audio 500W DC DC-ATX converter, the power of the mainboard and the PCIe cards connected to it are massively upgraded. It is expensive but a very good alternative.

Thanks for the advice.

That lead me to this idea:

 

With s.th. like this 

https://www.ebay.de/itm/PCI-E-16X-Riser-Karte-90-Grad-Pci-E-Pci-Express-16X-Riser-Adapter-Karte-mit-U6S5-/154412970547?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0

you don't have (these "evil") cabels.

The capacitor can be easily changed to audiophile ones and through scratching out the not used power lines and soldering pins to the necessary 12V points you have probably the best power connection ever.

 

Next step better would probably going directly ON the Solarflare card (with Superregulators) ...

 

Taiko Audio with LPSU:

with a ripple of 0,1 mV, I guess even a much more cheaper LPSU like a little bit upgraded zerozone (with active rectifier e.g.) directly connected to the Solareflare is probably much better (because also without going over the mainboard = best mainboard is no mainboard) 

 

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3 hours ago, Vivling2021 said:

Thanks! As you can see from the photos. I use a riser cable with 6 pin 12V power input that takes power directly from ATX Teradak LPSU.  I make sure the riser cable is as short as possible(20cm) and shielded to reduce interference as much as possible.  I think even though the riser cable may pick up some some noise, it is less noise than putting the entire card inside the computer box so close to the motherboard. Notice that the 12V input is directly from LPSU, not from a DC-ATX board which still has a SMPS in it. Of course I would imagine Taiko DC-ATX may sound better, but you would need pay much more.  I haven't done a comparison, as my fanless Streacom box is too small for both PCI-e card inside, and the heat from solarflare may turn it into a oven, degrading the sound quality.

Thanks for the informations. 

 

That are really good news and makes it easy, only 12V are needed. 

 

Have fun... 

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ATD-link make some nice quality risers, no not high end audio grade 'full paranoia options on' but still way better than the 40 cent production cost crap you usually see.

ISP, glass to Fritz!box 5530, another Fritz!box 5530 for audio only in bridged mode on LPS, cat8.1, Zyxel switch on LPS, Finisar <1475BTL>Solarflare X2522-25G, external wifi AP, AMD 9 16 core, passive cooling ,Aorus Master x570, LPSU with Taiko ATX, 8Gb Apacer RAM, femto SSD on LPS, Pink Faun I2S ultra OCXO on akiko LPS, home grown RJ45 I2S cable, Metrum Adagio DAC3, RCA 70-A and Miyaima Zero for mono, G2 PL519 tube amps. 

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On 8/21/2021 at 2:43 AM, Topk said:

What if you put 5V USB 120mm low noise fans on rubber feet, placed outside the case, powered with power bank, blowing air towards the side heatsinks of the H5 case (therefore away from the MB and all the sensitive components)?

 

 

D15925A6-2E16-4FDD-83CD-9CCABB04EFC9.jpeg

@Topk do you think there’s negative effects by blowing air through the mobo? Until I seen your post I have been blowing air through the case, but your comment has got me rethinking what I’m doing. 

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On 8/21/2021 at 3:43 AM, Topk said:

I found out that lower CPU temp = fuller, more stable sound.

 

I agree. Then all that remains is the problem of the dust being raised.

 

I try to keep the CPU temperature low by undervolting, among other things.

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  • 2 weeks later...

that copper CPU block and clasp look like a slightly better design that what I have waiting for my AMD build. Loooking forward to hear your experience with actual TDP of that HDplex as I expect that the current chassis is not capable to the Ryzen 9 with 105 W TDP.  

ISP, glass to Fritz!box 5530, another Fritz!box 5530 for audio only in bridged mode on LPS, cat8.1, Zyxel switch on LPS, Finisar <1475BTL>Solarflare X2522-25G, external wifi AP, AMD 9 16 core, passive cooling ,Aorus Master x570, LPSU with Taiko ATX, 8Gb Apacer RAM, femto SSD on LPS, Pink Faun I2S ultra OCXO on akiko LPS, home grown RJ45 I2S cable, Metrum Adagio DAC3, RCA 70-A and Miyaima Zero for mono, G2 PL519 tube amps. 

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for cabling (discussion about USB interlinks a bit earlier) I can also recommend Jupiter copper in cotton, saves a whole lot of time insulating UPOCC and the stripping ain't no walk in the park either,

 

I just finally reinstated (read repair) my RJ45 I2S link, and am again convinced that wire matters also in the digital domain.

 

 

ISP, glass to Fritz!box 5530, another Fritz!box 5530 for audio only in bridged mode on LPS, cat8.1, Zyxel switch on LPS, Finisar <1475BTL>Solarflare X2522-25G, external wifi AP, AMD 9 16 core, passive cooling ,Aorus Master x570, LPSU with Taiko ATX, 8Gb Apacer RAM, femto SSD on LPS, Pink Faun I2S ultra OCXO on akiko LPS, home grown RJ45 I2S cable, Metrum Adagio DAC3, RCA 70-A and Miyaima Zero for mono, G2 PL519 tube amps. 

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On 8/23/2021 at 7:36 PM, ASRMichael said:

@Topk do you think there’s negative effects by blowing air through the mobo? Until I seen your post I have been blowing air through the case, but your comment has got me rethinking what I’m doing. 

Well… my idea is that since I’m blowing air towards the side heatsink of the case, I don’t create vibration from the flow of air on the cards, components, clocks etc (for example there is a clock on the Pink Faun I2S card and we know those clocks are sensitive to vibrations at the microscopic level). I just like to keep the mobo and inside of the H5 case as calm as possible.

 

I just want to emphasize again that the colder, the better the sound, everywhere, including CPU, chipset, LPS…etc. Generally  speaking, hotter=thinner, harsher sound. While I used to run fully passive, I’m now using strategically placed fans (not directly on the CPU of course like a CPU air cooler), and that temperature reduction improved the sound.

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On 8/23/2021 at 9:35 PM, StreamFidelity said:

 

I agree. Then all that remains is the problem of the dust being raised.

 

I try to keep the CPU temperature low by undervolting, among other things.

One of my recent finding is that there’s a threshold where low CPU voltage does impact SQ. I would suggest you raise the voltage just as a test and listen, just to make sure you did not dip too low into that threshold…. 

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