Darryl R Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 On 5/6/2021 at 5:35 PM, Exocer said: I've been testing the 19V SR7T rail again to power the entire server (Today) and I wish I could redact some observations from my previous post. This sounds great Vs 2 rails: 1. There is absolutely no harshness or sibilance (I have been listening for 1.5 hours now) 2. Dynamics are where they need to be 3. No thinness to report 4. Soundstage is about the same size So for those who do not want to go with the unregulated LPS and already have a PH SR7T/DC4 LPS I highly recommend the Taiko DC-ATX to power both ATX and the CPU. No, I have not switched out the EPS cable yet. Some changes in my system since the first test: 1. CPU now runs at 4.5ghz (up from 3.8). 2. Tests were conducted with music files and OS on separate drives. 3. I've downgraded my Tidal subscription and listen mostly to Qobuz. 4. Perhaps the Taiko DC-ATX is appropriately broken in after several weeks of use. 5. Upgraded to a newer better sounding version of Euphony Stylus I think i'll be keeping it this far for a while. The issue was elsewhere in my chain. It'll be nice to have an extra 12v rail :) Cheers, -Rob Good news. Thanks Rob. This is all I'm going to have time to do as well. Could you refresh our memory on your DC input cable details? PS - Last week I installed the new Shunyata Sigma V2 speaker cable, a copper-silver hybrid, and it is the most significant upgrade I've made to my system since my DAC. Just like Caelin says, Sigma 2 brings in the positives from each material without the negatives. Amazing cable. Link to comment
Exocer Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 36 minutes ago, Darryl R said: Good news. Thanks Rob. This is all I'm going to have time to do as well. Could you refresh our memory on your DC input cable details? Sure. Gotham OFC 18AWG 8P-8P(CPU EPS) Power Cable(JSSG360) https://www.ghentaudio.com/pc/gt02.html 8 Inches Paul Hynes DC18FSXL-0.75m-M6: Length: 0.75m This cable uses 3 sets of DC6 cable (hence the designation of DC18) PSU connector: Jaeger Device connector: Molex 6-pin (hence M6 designation) I use a single 19V rail on my SR7T to connect this to the power input of the Taiko DC-ATX Adapter 37 minutes ago, Darryl R said: Last week I installed the new Shunyata Sigma V2 speaker cable, a copper-silver hybrid, and it is the most significant upgrade I've made to my system since my DAC. Just like Caelin says, Sigma 2 brings in the positives from each material without the negatives. Amazing cable. Awesome info. Here I am using this to good effect: https://www.partsconnexion.com/DUELUND-87080.html What were you upgrading from? Link to comment
Darryl R Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 8 minutes ago, Exocer said: Sure. Gotham OFC 18AWG 8P-8P(CPU EPS) Power Cable(JSSG360) https://www.ghentaudio.com/pc/gt02.html 8 Inches Paul Hynes DC18FSXL-0.75m-M6: Length: 0.75m This cable uses 3 sets of DC6 cable (hence the designation of DC18) PSU connector: Jaeger Device connector: Molex 6-pin (hence M6 designation) This is use in conjunction with Taiko DC-ATX adapters (either 400W or 800W) I used a single 19V rail on my SR7T to connect this to the power input (M6) of the Taiko DC-ATX Adapter Thanks Rob. I went with the Neotech JSSG360 from Ghent, but I'll have to replace the DC input because it's not long enough. So if I understand correctly your only using one of the DC6 runs now since everything is going thru the Taiko? Link to comment
Exocer Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 11 minutes ago, Darryl R said: Thanks Rob. I went with the Neotech JSSG360 from Ghent, but I'll have to replace the DC input because it's not long enough. So if I understand correctly your only using one of the DC6 runs now since everything is going thru the Taiko? No, one cable consists of 3 runs of DC6 to create the DC18. I use the DC18 from PH SR7T 19V to the Taiko DC Input + the Ghent cable from Taiko to EPS. Not in the mood to move anything but you can make out the 3 DC6's combined into a DC18 in this pic: Darryl R 1 Link to comment
Darryl R Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 No, definitely do not move anything. Thanks for the photo. My SR7T is on the schedule for next month. You know, with looming hyperinflation, they're saying we should invest in silver 🤑 Exocer 1 Link to comment
Darryl R Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 Oh, before I forget, did you have a chance to look into that clock issue with new Z590 boards? Link to comment
Popular Post Exocer Posted May 9, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 9, 2021 5 minutes ago, Darryl R said: Oh, before I forget, did you have a chance to look into that clock issue with new Z590 boards? There is no clock issue with z590 boards that I am aware of. But the C621 boards may have a design advantage with the unintended influence of improved sound quality. See @OAudio's post here: This is also in the C621 whitepapers (I lost the link but can dig it up). Cheers, -Rob exeric2 and Darryl R 2 Link to comment
OAudio Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 On 5/7/2021 at 6:46 PM, Nenon said: On 5/7/2021 at 4:14 PM, OAudio said: @Nenon Wow, 5uV = ~-135db of rejection ( assuming a ~30v rail ) ! I have been playing along in the background for a while using simulations of an unregulated supply based on the component choices in your earlier posts. With components listed and tweaking components parameters to near ideal performance levels its hard to get <3mv pk - pk @ 1 amp constant load. 5uV is exceptional. Can I ask how you measuring the ripple and and under what test conditions ? Thanks. Expand Have you tried simulating the dual choke CLCLC configuration? I had not spotted the move to CLCLC. Modelling that configuration closes the gap somewhat :-) OAudio Ltd. OAudio Supreme - music server. OAudio RealStream - digital audio components. Link to comment
dctom Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 On 5/6/2021 at 11:35 PM, Exocer said: I've been testing the 19V SR7T rail again to power the entire server (Today) and I wish I could redact some observations from my previous post. This sounds great Vs 2 rails: 1. There is absolutely no harshness or sibilance (I have been listening for 1.5 hours now) 2. Dynamics are where they need to be 3. No thinness to report 4. Soundstage is about the same size So for those who do not want to go with the unregulated LPS and already have a PH SR7T/DC4 LPS I highly recommend the Taiko DC-ATX to power both ATX and the CPU. No, I have not switched out the EPS cable yet. Some changes in my system since the first test: 1. CPU now runs at 4.5ghz (up from 3.8). 2. Tests were conducted with music files and OS on separate drives. 3. I've downgraded my Tidal subscription and listen mostly to Qobuz. 4. Perhaps the Taiko DC-ATX is appropriately broken in after several weeks of use. 5. Upgraded to a newer better sounding version of Euphony Stylus I think i'll be keeping it this far for a while. The issue was elsewhere in my chain. It'll be nice to have an extra 12v rail :) Cheers, -Rob I have been running my Taiko ATX for a few days powered by my 12v 19v SR7T. so far I have preferred using the 19v to Taiko and 12v rail to EPS. Admittedly the Taiko to EPS is via the bog standard one that came with the Hdplex. Link to comment
Popular Post dctom Posted May 10, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 10, 2021 On 5/3/2021 at 9:36 PM, Exocer said: I used this as a stopgap (seriously) for mounting the Taiko DC-ATX: https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-Strips-17206-ES/dp/B00404YKZI/ref=asc_df_B00404YKZI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416671023321&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6444278770499751207&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073501&hvtargid=pla-340383477275&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=90730998621&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416671023321&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6444278770499751207&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9073501&hvtargid=pla-340383477275 I have done done something similar to fit the Taiko in my steacom case, seems to work ok Exocer, NanoSword and LTG2010 2 1 Link to comment
Exocer Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 8 minutes ago, dctom said: I have been running my Taiko ATX for a few days powered by my 12v 19v SR7T. so far I have preferred using the 19v to Taiko and 12v rail to EPS. Admittedly the Taiko to EPS is via the bog standard one that came with the Hdplex. My advice would be to get away from that bog standard cable ASAP. That is most definitely your bottleneck. Also, my Taiko took more than a few days of continuous use to break in so definitely check back in the future with a better cable. NanoSword 1 Link to comment
Popular Post bit01 Posted May 15, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 15, 2021 On 5/6/2021 at 6:35 PM, Exocer said: I've been testing the 19V SR7T rail again to power the entire server (Today) and I wish I could redact some observations from my previous post. This sounds great Vs 2 rails: 1. There is absolutely no harshness or sibilance (I have been listening for 1.5 hours now) 2. Dynamics are where they need to be 3. No thinness to report 4. Soundstage is about the same size So for those who do not want to go with the unregulated LPS and already have a PH SR7T/DC4 LPS I highly recommend the Taiko DC-ATX to power both ATX and the CPU. No, I have not switched out the EPS cable yet. Some changes in my system since the first test: 1. CPU now runs at 4.5ghz (up from 3.8). 2. Tests were conducted with music files and OS on separate drives. 3. I've downgraded my Tidal subscription and listen mostly to Qobuz. 4. Perhaps the Taiko DC-ATX is appropriately broken in after several weeks of use. 5. Upgraded to a newer better sounding version of Euphony Stylus I think i'll be keeping it this far for a while. The issue was elsewhere in my chain. It'll be nice to have an extra 12v rail :) Cheers, -Rob I will also confirm preference of using the SR7T to power the TAIKO DC DC ATX unit and let that power the CPU (Intel i9-10900K in a GB Z490 AORUS Master). The music flows (grabs my attention) much better than when using the 2nd rail via a SJ regulator for the CPU. So far I hear what I would call a 'polished' sound, pleasant on the ear with nice PRaT. Music intricacies are very evident. Instrumental timbre is very good as are voices. This is very relaxed listening so far. I switched the SR7T powered HDPlex 800 out to test the Taiko. The CPU powered by the SR7T in both cases. I had been playing some tracks at a comfortable volume. The server was feeding my main system, which I had left powered up when I made the switch. Without adjusting the volume the sound seemed diminished with the TAIKO (apparent lower volume). I was tempted to increase the volume a few notches but resisted. When I powered the CPU directly from the TAIKO the volume seemed more, but not quite to the level I remembered (audio memory can be poor). I will have to switch back to the HDplex to double check this. If true (very early days) then it sounds to me like the macro dynamics are somewhat diminished in comparison to the HDPlex both fed with the SR7T 19V rail. Although the sound is more refined I feel like it does not 'punch' to the same level. There will be more break in and tuning here hopefully including the unregulated higher voltage PS that @Nenon is working on to power the TAIKO. I had a similar impression as the above when I switched the G. SKILL RIPJAWS V RAM 3200MHz out for the APACER 2666 CL19 WT and to a lesser extent the APACER 3200 CL22 WT! (More polish, less dynamic swing)!! I had tuned the HDPlex 800 setup to my liking with: the Ghent Audio Neotech 18awg UPOCC (in JSSG360)- 0.2M of NT01 for ATX and 0.5M NT02 for the CPU. The SR7T to DC-ATX unit: about 1M Mundorf 16AWG Ag/Au and 0.5M to CPU (when used). The same wiring is sounding really good with the TAIKO. The TAIKO DC DC-ATX is a replacement unit, FedEx having smashed the 1st one. Taiko replaced it without issue, thanks to them, and the unit this time came in its own nice box inside the shipper (double boxed). It survived the trip because of the better packaging as the outer box here was visibly rough treated too. ATB. b. NanoSword, Exocer and RickyV 3 Link to comment
Popular Post Nenon Posted May 15, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 15, 2021 7 hours ago, bit01 said: I will also confirm preference of using the SR7T to power the TAIKO DC DC ATX unit and let that power the CPU (Intel i9-10900K in a GB Z490 AORUS Master). The music flows (grabs my attention) much better than when using the 2nd rail via a SJ regulator for the CPU. So far I hear what I would call a 'polished' sound, pleasant on the ear with nice PRaT. Music intricacies are very evident. Instrumental timbre is very good as are voices. This is very relaxed listening so far. I switched the SR7T powered HDPlex 800 out to test the Taiko. The CPU powered by the SR7T in both cases. I had been playing some tracks at a comfortable volume. The server was feeding my main system, which I had left powered up when I made the switch. Without adjusting the volume the sound seemed diminished with the TAIKO (apparent lower volume). I was tempted to increase the volume a few notches but resisted. When I powered the CPU directly from the TAIKO the volume seemed more, but not quite to the level I remembered (audio memory can be poor). I will have to switch back to the HDplex to double check this. If true (very early days) then it sounds to me like the macro dynamics are somewhat diminished in comparison to the HDPlex both fed with the SR7T 19V rail. Although the sound is more refined I feel like it does not 'punch' to the same level. There will be more break in and tuning here hopefully including the unregulated higher voltage PS that @Nenon is working on to power the TAIKO. I had a similar impression as the above when I switched the G. SKILL RIPJAWS V RAM 3200MHz out for the APACER 2666 CL19 WT and to a lesser extent the APACER 3200 CL22 WT! (More polish, less dynamic swing)!! I had tuned the HDPlex 800 setup to my liking with: the Ghent Audio Neotech 18awg UPOCC (in JSSG360)- 0.2M of NT01 for ATX and 0.5M NT02 for the CPU. The SR7T to DC-ATX unit: about 1M Mundorf 16AWG Ag/Au and 0.5M to CPU (when used). The same wiring is sounding really good with the TAIKO. The TAIKO DC DC-ATX is a replacement unit, FedEx having smashed the 1st one. Taiko replaced it without issue, thanks to them, and the unit this time came in its own nice box inside the shipper (double boxed). It survived the trip because of the better packaging as the outer box here was visibly rough treated too. ATB. b. How long have you had it running for? The lower volume is one of the general burn-in characters, so I suspect you don't have 400-500 hours yet. Give it some time, it will open up a lot more. I am back from my vacation and have some parts coming my way. I will also try to catch up with Emile this week to see where we are with the chassis and transformers. I do need a transformer to finish the chassis layout, but if they are far away, I will take my power supply apart and use the transformer I have. I know the Taiko DIY chassis were delayed. He had some CNC time reserved but with the raw materials shortage and other issues everything is taking much longer. I should have some more updates next week... NanoSword, Chopin75, vhs and 1 other 3 1 Industry disclosure: https://chicagohifi.com Dealer for: Taiko Audio, Conrad Johnson, Audio Mirror, and Sean Jacobs Link to comment
bit01 Posted May 15, 2021 Share Posted May 15, 2021 7 minutes ago, Nenon said: How long have you had it running for? The lower volume is one of the general burn-in characters, so I suspect you don't have 400-500 hour yet. Give it some time, it will open up a lot more. .. Still very fresh, less that 40 hrs, a long way to go from what you say! It will be running 24/7 for sure. I will compare the volume thing to the HDplex 800 again at month's end. Welcome back safe and sound I hope. ATB b. Nenon 1 Link to comment
Popular Post Nenon Posted May 16, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 16, 2021 Unregulated LPS update I am pretty much set on the 3 designs. As I explained in an earlier post, we simply add more parts to each design. You can start with v1 and then go to v2 and then to v3. As you are going up the ladder no parts remain unused. The first version (aka v1) is very simple. You have an IEC inlet --> Fuse --> Soft start --> Transformer --> Mosfet rectifier --> Output connector. The version gives you very clean, fast, and transparent sound, but it does not have the body and the full expansive sound as the other two versions. Can too transparent and too fast be a problem? I think it's way too fast and transparent, hence the additional components in the other two versions. But it's all about personal taste. Some may like that version more. The second version (aka v2) consists of: IEC inlet --> Fuse --> Soft start --> Transformer --> Mosfet rectifier --> Mundorf HC 22,000 uF (bypassed with VCAP ODAM 0.1 uF film cap) --> Hammond choke --> 3 x Mundorf HC 22,000 uF (each bypassed with VCAP ODAM 0.1 uF film cap) --> Output connector. This is an improvement over v1 in my opinion. It gives you a bit more of everything and is the sweet spot. This is what I have been running for months (until I tried v3). You have about 5mV ripple with this version. You get about 2.3 mOhm output impedance but that's influenced by the wiring you are using and could be higher if you use thin wires or bad connectors. The third version (aka v3) consists of: IEC inlet --> Fuse --> Soft start --> Transformer --> Mosfet rectifier --> Mundorf HC 22,000 uF (bypassed with VCAP ODAM 0.1 uF film cap) --> Hammond choke --> Mundorf HC 22,000 uF (bypassed with VCAP ODAM 0.1 uF film cap) --> Hammond choke --> 3 x Mundorf HC ( 2 x 47,000 uF + 1 x 22,000 uF, each bypassed with VCAP ODAM 0.1 uF film cap) --> Output connector. This version gives away some of the "clean" sound you have in v1 and v2 but is fuller, bigger, massively expensive. Amazing 5uV ripple and nearly half the output impedance compared to v2 - ~1.2 mOhm + the impact of your wiring. I don't have the prices of the Noratel transformers and the Taiko rectifier, but just to get some idea, let's assume they are $200 each. Here is what I have for the bill of materials with somewhat rounded prices: This is just ballpark pricing to get an idea. Leave it to me, and it would get much more expensive as I would add thick pure copper busbars, multiple runs of expensive wire, exotic connectors, footers, etc. I would also have Modushop fabricate the cases for me, so it's easier to install everything. That also adds to the cost. However, if you see how massive v3 is, it would easily compare to the power supplies of very very expensive amps. If this thing was a commercial product (or a part of a commercial product) in the dealer's network I'd expect it to be over $20K. This is the beauty of DIY :). And as far as R&D goes, the amount of time spent here is on par with many commercial products to say the least. If you are impatient and don't want to wait anymore, you can order a 24VAC 400VA Toroidy Supreme transformer, get a rectifier of your choice, and get this going. Not my favorite rectifier but something like the Vishay GBPC3504-E4/51 could do the job for the time being, assuming it would be replaced with something better in the future. That was the easy part of the post. It gets quite complicated from here. As with anything else in life, there will be people with all kinds of different preferences. Some would like cheaper. Some would like better where cost is no object. Some would prefer easier to make. Some would prefer someone else to make it for them. Some would have existing parts they would like to use. And so on... It's hard to cover all possible cases, but here are some random notes to begin with. If you are on a budget, the above can be made a lot cheaper. You can use a cheaper chassis, cheaper IEC inlet, cheaper connectors, cheaper transformers, cheaper capacitors, etc. You can really make this a budget LPS. It would probably still be better than most linear power supplies on the market (most of them use cheap components too). If you are on the opposite end of "on a budget", you can make this even better. You can use even better chassis. You can add good feet to the chassis (i.e. the Gaia I use). You can fabricate copper busbars to screw in the Mundorf caps to (something I am looking to do for myself). You can use the Mundorf copper terminal rings. If you are not handy with drilling/milling we can have Modushop predrill all the holes on the rear panel and the bottom panel. That adds to the price - from their price list guessing around 25 Euro for the rear panel (less than 10 holes) and another 35-45 Euro (more the 20 holes for v3) for the bottom panel. BTW, I have not received this chassis from Modushop yet, so I am just speculating that v3 would fit in it at this point. Pretty sure v2 would fit. But you can also use a smaller chassis for v1 and v2. Taiko does not have many mosfet rectifiers, so we have to decide if another batch is needed, if Emile is even willing to run another batch. There are a lot of complications with that... We need to see what the lead times would be. We need to know how many to order. Or we can look for some other alternatives. There is something else I have in mind but would require a PCB. There is a guy in the US and a guy in the EU who are willing to make these unregulated LPS's for other people. The labor fee negotiated was $500, given that the chassis has all the holes pre-drilled. I will make a couple myself just to get the process started and documented. We haven't discussed wiring. I am still making some tests but so far I am leaning towards busbars for the capacitors and a custom OEM copper wire I managed to procure with the Mundorf lugs (which are quite pricey by the way, but I like them). There is a global shortage of materials. Some of the products mentioned above may be hard to obtain. I mentioned doing a potential group order in the past. I can try to organise that and get the entire BOM. If anyone is interested in that, please contact me on PM before the end of May indicating if you want v2 or v3 and if you want someone to build it for you. Okay, let's keep it at that for now. I can probably keep writing this post the whole day but have other things I need to do now. lwr, ciccio1112, mikicasellas and 15 others 3 3 12 Industry disclosure: https://chicagohifi.com Dealer for: Taiko Audio, Conrad Johnson, Audio Mirror, and Sean Jacobs Link to comment
Popular Post Exocer Posted May 16, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 16, 2021 @Nenon thanks for the update. Very excited about all of this new information and still processing it. Given my current server spec, V3 may be overkill but it will certainly provide a solid foundation for future builds so that is what I am leaning towards. Hopefully it will fit in the Modushop chassis. As for drilling the bottom panel holes, I was willing to draft that up in CAD in addition to the rear panel (which is already semi-complete, just awaiting your signoff) so that all the DIY community would need to do is attach both the rear and bottom panel files to their chassis order to receive a fully drilled out case. My entire transaction was through DIY Audio store though which offers plenty of Modushop cases. (I only drafted the rear panel for my DC3 chassis as I had no idea where the bottom screw would go, so I ended up drilling those using a household drill). Looking forward to a PHSR7T vs Unregulated LPS V3 bake off. Can we give these supplies a better name? Unregulated LPS V3 is too generic and too much to type 😁. bit01, lwr, mikicasellas and 2 others 1 3 1 Link to comment
Popular Post Peter Avgeris Posted May 16, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 16, 2021 1 hour ago, Nenon said: I would highly recommend to avoid those ultra expensive Furutech connectors/plugs/sockets. All Furutech products have been cryogenically treated and unfortunately they impose a very bad sonic signature compared to the non-cryo versions. I used to purchase Wattgate & Furutech products many years ago, before this cryo treating policy was applied to the whole array of their products. Nowadays, cryo treatment has become a standard and this is really bad for good sound. In addition, I have never ever listened to any Vcap capacitor that sounds really good. On the contrary, they are sterile and thin sounding. Last, bypassing electrolytes does not make things better. A good measuring electrolyte like Siemens or Nichicon with its characteristic angle as close to -90 as possible (at 100 Hz) has way better behavior than the one of the Mundorfs, which have been found to be unreasonably expensive. Putting all these down, leads to cost cutting well below 40%. prinz, bit01, OAudio and 1 other 3 1 Design & Manufacture of High Fidelity Audio Equipment http://www.exoticaudiodesign.com/ Link to comment
genvirt Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 1 hour ago, Exocer said: I had no idea where the bottom screw would go, so I ended up drilling those using a household drill). Just in case Modushop has this part that I’ve been using: https://modushop.biz/site/index.php?route=product/category&path=311_316 Exocer 1 Link to comment
Popular Post Nenon Posted May 16, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 16, 2021 41 minutes ago, Peter Avgeris said: I would highly recommend to avoid those ultra expensive Furutech connectors/plugs/sockets. All Furutech products have been cryogenically treated and unfortunately they impose a very bad sonic signature compared to the non-cryo versions. I used to purchase Wattgate & Furutech products many years ago, before this cryo treating policy was applied to the whole array of their products. Nowadays, cryo treatment has become a standard and this is really bad for good sound. Yep. Some people love them. Some hate them. Not only the cryo stuff.... some people hate anything Rhodium plated too. I like their NCF stuff. When Emile and I discussed the Taiko chassis, we designed the IEC cutout to fit multiple IEC inlets including the Oyaide used on the Taiko Extreme and Furutech. This is DIY and everyone can use whatever suits them. 41 minutes ago, Peter Avgeris said: In addition, I have never ever listened to any Vcap capacitor that sounds really good. On the contrary, they are sterile and thin sounding. In what application? Signal path or power supplies? And if power supplies, for analog or digital component? And if for digital, for high current or low current application, in what design and what position? I know you are very knowledgeable about analog designs, transformers, etc. But if you referring to your analog signal path experience, this has nothing to do with it. I would not use those VCAPs as coupling capacitors or anywhere in the signal for my tube amps or tube line stage or tube phono stage. I use Duelund Cast-Pio Tinned Copper Film caps there (or copper in one application). Using them in this LPS is completely different. 41 minutes ago, Peter Avgeris said: Last, bypassing electrolytes does not make things better. Let's not generalise. I've spent a lot of time listening and didn't just recommend it because I read somewhere that using bypassing caps might be better. I've tried many other capacitors with and without bypassing caps. More on that in one of my previous posts: On 5/7/2021 at 12:20 PM, Nenon said: Capacitors selection: This is the part where you can apply the most personal preferences and be more creative and “voice” things to your liking. There are several aspects to consider - capacitor specs (capacitance, ESR, etc), capacitor brand, model, etc. Having had a lot of DIY experience with capacitors, I know how different capacitors sound. I have tried many - Nichicon, Panasonic, Mundorf, Audio Note, Elma, Kemet, Black gate to name a few. Without any doubt, Mundorf is my go to when it gets to high capacitance capacitors. I did try a few other capacitor brands I had on hand, but I quickly narrowed down the choice between Mundorf AG and Mundorf HC. The Mundorf AG had better / smoother highs. The Mundorf HC had deeper and better bass but was a little more rough in the higher frequencies. How do you get the best of both worlds? It’s not easy for the Mundorf AG caps in this application to get the deep bass of the Mundorf HC (although there are ways to get close). But there is a trick to significantly improve the highs on the Mundorf HC - using film bypass capacitors. After trying a dozen different film caps, I liked the VCAP ODAM as bypass caps the best. In my opinion the Mundorf HC with VCAP ODAM film caps sounds better in every level than the Mundorf AG in this particular application. That makes the unregulated LPS huge and more expensive, but that was my choice. It’s an overkill, and perhaps people with smaller speakers don’t need that. Mundorf AG caps would work perfectly fine here. But my highly efficient 18’’ paper cone woofers driven by dedicated SET mono blocks love the HC+ODAM combo. As far as capacitance, I have tried quite a few option and have settled on the two options I liked the best. 41 minutes ago, Peter Avgeris said: A good measuring electrolyte like Siemens or Nichicon with its characteristic angle as close to -90 as possible (at 100 Hz) has way better behavior than the one of the Mundorfs, which have been found to be unreasonably expensive. Okay, they may have "better behaviour" (whatever that means), but they sound worse in this application. We care about sound quality here, and those Mundorf caps sound better. Way better actually! Given how transparent the Taiko ATX is, EVERYTHING makes a difference in this unregulated LPS. I am posting what works for me and hoping that the DIY community would improve my initial design (and I will benefit from that later too). 41 minutes ago, Peter Avgeris said: Putting all these down, leads to cost cutting well below 40%. That's right. Maybe even more than 40%. As I said in my post: 2 hours ago, Nenon said: If you are on a budget, the above can be made a lot cheaper. You can use a cheaper chassis, cheaper IEC inlet, cheaper connectors, cheaper transformers, cheaper capacitors, etc. You can really make this a budget LPS. It would probably still be better than most linear power supplies on the market (most of them use cheap components too). It won't sound the same, though. The beauty of this is that it's an open design and everyone can fit to personal taste, budget, etc. Peter Avgeris, NanoSword, Exocer and 1 other 1 2 1 Industry disclosure: https://chicagohifi.com Dealer for: Taiko Audio, Conrad Johnson, Audio Mirror, and Sean Jacobs Link to comment
novaca Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 Would this power supply be usable (and a better choice than others) also for other than Taiko DC-ATX? (yes, for example HDPLEX 800W) If so, should v2 or v3 be considered? Link to comment
Downtheline Posted May 16, 2021 Share Posted May 16, 2021 4 hours ago, Nenon said: if you see how massive v3 is Nenon, is the taiko diy case still planned to be big enough for this v3 power supply and the motherboard and the dc/atx? Or are you now thinking it better to separate into 2 chassis? Link to comment
Rovo Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Nenon, would you be able to supply us with a connection diagram/sketch and/or photos? Altec 1 Link to comment
Popular Post Nenon Posted May 17, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 17, 2021 17 hours ago, novaca said: Would this power supply be usable (and a better choice than others) also for other than Taiko DC-ATX? (yes, for example HDPLEX 800W) If so, should v2 or v3 be considered? I don't see why not. While both the HDPLEX and Taiko ATX are switching mode power supplies, the Taiko ATX is using GaN FETs configured to switch in the MHz range (way outside the audio range) and the HDPLEX has switching noise in the audible range. Just something to keep in mind when making those choices. 17 hours ago, Downtheline said: Nenon, is the taiko diy case still planned to be big enough for this v3 power supply and the motherboard and the dc/atx? Or are you now thinking it better to separate into 2 chassis? V1, V2, and V3 were provided as options to build an unregulated LPS in an external chassis. I wanted to get this out as many people ordered and received their Taiko ATX. Once I get the Taiko chassis, I will be working on a version for that for myself and will share what I end up with. I don't think we would have space for V3 with the big Mundorf HC caps. Some compromises would be needed there. We can probably do V3 with Mundorf AG caps, or stick to V2, or do something in between. The benefit there would be that the Taiko ATX would be right next the the output of the unregulated LPS - we can use short wires and no connectors, which would reduce the output impedance, which has a big effect on SQ. 5 hours ago, Rovo said: Nenon, would you be able to supply us with a connection diagram/sketch and/or photos? That is the plan. But I need the chassis first, and can do the connection diagram and the chassis layout on one diagram. dctom and lwr 2 Industry disclosure: https://chicagohifi.com Dealer for: Taiko Audio, Conrad Johnson, Audio Mirror, and Sean Jacobs Link to comment
Rovo Posted May 17, 2021 Share Posted May 17, 2021 Nenon, this will take a while before the connection diagram will be available. Is it possible that you share some photos of your current testing setup. The reason for this is that I will make my own chassis and with the photos I will get a better idea about the size requirements. I have already designed my own chassis (for a different micro ATX motherboard) and would like to get a feeling if the unregulated LPS will fit. Currently the motherboard is in a Streacom FC5 chassis, but will be assembled in the new chassis with the Taiko DC-ATX and a Paul Hynes SR7T or the unregulated LPS. NanoSword 1 Link to comment
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