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Building a DIY Music Server


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Has anyone who purchased a Taiko case run into any issues putting it together?  It appears my L bracket with the threaded holes for the backplate was machined with those holes on the wrong side.  It would be surprising if only one has an issue like that.  I'm hoping it's something I did wrong but I believe I have the front plate and two heatsink sides attached to the bottom correctly.

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6 minutes ago, baconbrain said:

 

Needless to say, I am wondering how Taiko can oversee something like this?

 

I realize that all new products have teething problems but given that this is now the third issue with the chassis there seems to be a certain lack of quality control on the Taiko side. Certainly not ideal for a product at this price point.

 

Would be curious to know if others encounter this issue or if I was just unlucky enough to get the bad apple of the bunch.  

 

I'm going through the same exercise as you. All the same components however I'd like to put my supply components inside the case. We already shared our similar experience with the L bracket. I'll let you know after this weekend how the mobo and atx converter fit. 

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2 hours ago, JayM said:

 

 

First of all our apologies on behalf of the entire team here at Taiko Audio!

 

Regarding the L-brackets, so far we've in total been contacted by 4 people who had issues fitting the L-brackets. By far, most brackets were produced correctly. However due to human error, some brackets had been placed in the wrong position in the CNC mill which caused the wrong holes to be threaded. In the next DIY batch we've changed the design so that this can't happen again they will only fit one way. The people who were affected by an incorrect L bracket will be provided with a correct one. One person offered to fix it himself and asked us not to ship a bracket.

 

On the bottom-plate issue; As soon as Baconbrain contacted me by email (same issue as post above), I spoke with our design and production team what could have happened, because this is obviously substandard in terms of quality and the service we want to offer everyone. Here is a quick recap what happened:

 

We did physically test a DIY chassis here at the factory, with the same motherboard and our own ATX. It all fitted together brilliantly, however one of the the motherboards we used came with a shield back plate on which foam was attached (normally we don't have that). Because of the extra thickness of the foam the backplate of the DIY chassis would come under a little stress and bend ever so slightly. With a shield back plate (no foam) everything fitted perfectly. To make sure that all motherboards - including the ones with a foam covered shield back plate - would fit. Our design team moved all threads for the bolts on which the components - such as the different kind of motherboards - are connected 2mm to the front. This is where our mistake was made; our design team thought SolidWorks was moving all threads for all the bolts 2mm to the front but the ones for the ATX were apparently not selected properly. Originally there was 1mm between the sides of the ATX and the motherboard, and because only the motherboard has been moved 2mm, there is exactly 1mm overlap.

 

Today, as soon as we figured out what went wrong - especially since we test fitted everything here in the factory months ago - we started working on a solution. We already started production of a copper adaptor plate to be fitted between the ATX and bottom plate of the chassis. We will continue to work on these adapter plates tomorrow, and are hopefully able to ship these to everyone who ordered a DIY chassis - in the first batch - tomorrow afternoon. At the very latest these will be shipped out on Monday!

 

We once more sincerely apologise for the inconvenience caused by the situation as described above.

 

 

Thank you Jelle!

 

With the first round of chassis perfection would be very difficult to achieve.  You've been very helpful in many ways.  Thanks.

 

At some point I'm guessing you're going to want to establish a US based distributor to reduce your shipping costs, considering how much you have to pay for every shipment through DHL.  :) 

 

Best,
John

 

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1 hour ago, drjimwillie said:

@JayM

Will you please post a picture of the L bracket, either correct or incorrect, so I can compare it to mine?

I will not be building the Taiko DIY Case for a few months and I would like to be able to identify if my L bracket has been fabricated correctly.

Thank you

 

Here's a picture of how the bracket should NOT look. Let me know if you want specifics. 

20220806_213339.jpg

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11 minutes ago, drjimwillie said:

It took me a little bit of digging, but I went through things and found the two packages that say front L bracket and back L bracket.

I should have looked at Johnseye’s post closer to reference that he was talking about the back bracket. First I opened the front bracket and I did not see threads. Because it does not have any.

I opened the back bracket and with some examination with magnifying glass I could see the threads and then I realized that the threaded hole is smaller.

I might be missing something, but can’t I just flip the bracket over and the threaded holes would be on the correct side?

 

Nope because the position of the holes relative to the ends are different. 

 

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14 minutes ago, baconbrain said:

Quick question for those of you with a Taiko DIY Chassis.

 

Does one not use the Asus supplied CPU carrier clip when installing the Xeon CPU for the Sage MB together with the Taiko CPU Cooling Block?

 

Thx!

 

I installed the cpu cooling blocks directly on top of the procs.  No carrier clip.  Messaging you with some pics shortly.

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21 minutes ago, ASRMichael said:

I’m looking forward to the guys who are building diy Taiko Dual CPU. How it compares to single cpu. But using all other existing parts in your server! 

 

One very positive finding is that I can upsample with HQPlayer to PCM 1.5M with temps maxing at 50 but typically lower.

 

I have not installed the power supply parts into the chassis yet.

 

My previous build had 2 sCLK-EX boards providing the clocks for server mobo, endpoint mobo and tX-USB all master clocked by the Mutec.  This is a big change for me without any modifications to clocks.  The sound is different.  Not as smooth at this point, but the equipment is new and OS not dialed in at all.

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47 minutes ago, di-fi said:

Nice!

If you have enough Panzerholz left, about the size of your case, you could build an isolation platform for the server à la Taiko Daiza, also with 3 extra tiny Panzerholz feet. Users rave about them. 

 

 

 

 

 

If you want to go all the way you could make 3 copper disks to go between the feet and the platform and CNC a spiral shape in the bottom ;-). 

https://taikoaudio.com/taiko-2020/product/daiza-isolation-platform/

 

 

 

 

Yes, I do have enough left and made one, but without the routed spiral....yet. Currently the server is sitting on it.  Next I'm going to try it under my turntable.

 

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33 minutes ago, di-fi said:

Great idea. I am working on three platforms myself. I like how Taiko put copper discs and foam inserts to further optimize isolation (beside the beautiful spirals of course). Also the little Panzerholz feet with foam inserts are well thought and essential according to Emile. He put 3 under the server and 3 under each platform, I will try make those too. And I wish I could but no routing though!

 

I wonder how Iso-pucks under it would influence the sound.

 

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15 hours ago, Jeremy Anderson said:

Apologies if you already shared this and I just didn't read back far enough, but where on earth did you find Panzerholz in the States?

(I feel as though I've spent enough hours searching the web that my eyes were starting to bleed...)

Nice to see you were able to cram the Nenon supply into the Taiko DIY. I held off on purchasing the Taiko case because Nenon had serious doubts that his supply would fit. I can see it is a very tight squeeze, so his concerns were well-founded. 😅

 

Here's the info on where we got it from. It is a lot of wood, which is why Nenon and I split it. They cut the wood in two pieces before shipping. Even then I have excess. Shipping was cheaper with UPS. 

 

DELIGNIT® Panzerholz® is compressed to high density (87 lbs / ft3) and made from European beech hardwood veneers throughout, reliably bonded using a water & boil proof phenolic resin glue.  It is commonly used for tooling and bullet security applications. This material has been found to have desirable characteristics for acoustic applications. 

At our warehouse in Quebec/Canada we stock DELIGNIT® Panzerholz® B15 in size 2130 x 1000 x 20mm (approx. 84” x 39” x ¾”) and in size 2130 x 1000 x 25mm (approx. 84” x 39” x 1”). 

20mm (approx ¾”) thickness:  USD 460.00 / panel

25mm (approx. 1”) thickness:  USD 575.00 / panel 

2130 x 1000 x 20mm, 24 ply, panel weight 132 lbs

2130 x 1000 x 25mm, 29 ply, panel weight 165 lbs 

Additional costs per shipment:

+ USD 80.00 for pallet packaging (required for shipping whole panels)

+ USD 50.00 for U.S. customs clearance (for shipping whole panels)

+ shipping costs from our warehouse to you 

Shipping to residential addresses in the U.S. is tricky.  To ship a whole panel to a residential address, the carrier charges extra fees of US$150 on top of the freight costs. Sometimes our residential customers will pick up at the local carrier’s terminal to avoid these residential delivery fees.  Alternatively we could cut the panel in half (our cutting charge for 1 cut is US$30) and ship 2 packages using UPS.  If you are interested to proceed with one of the above panel sizes, we could investigate the shipping possibilities and costs for you. 

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2 hours ago, di-fi said:

Way to go, you guys ordered a pallet of this heavy material? That’s where I got my 25mm sheet as well, but it’s only 1 hour drive from here. Shipping gets expensive due to the exceptionally high weight. They are great to deal with and it was nice to go check out the place and meet.  Note that their stock is 20 and 25 mm. Daiza is 40mm thickness. But you can double sheets like the Taiko Daiza platform that is sometimes used one on top of each other.

 

https://www.bkbindustrial.com/delignit-panzerholz

 

We bought a full sheet, not a pallet. Still the shipping was expensive. It's extremely heavy as you know. The thickness was perfect as I have just enough clearence to close the top of the server with the Mundorf caps installed on top of the Panzerholz. 

 

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1 hour ago, SK8 said:

Very nice. I thought the component needs the panzerholz most would be the Taiko transformer. I understand there is limited space in the cage there. Would it be possible to add a piece of thinner panzerholz say 12 or 15mm to mount the transformer on it?

 

Yes, that is my plan. There is very limited space inside the cage. I will need to cut or route out the Panzerholz, similar to what Taiko has done with the Extreme. Not an easy task. I likely won't get to it until Jan or Feb. 

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47 minutes ago, di-fi said:

First of all you seem to struggle with space inside the case and there also needs to be air circulating to avoid too high temperatures. Further I would think a small piece of PH simply will not have the capacity to absorb much acoustic energy, if that is what you try to accomplish (but it looks great though). If you look for isolation from acoustic vibration, very likely it would have an audible effect if you:  

1) make sure all inside the case is well attached but never overtight to avoid damage to electronic boards 

2) install a large and thick piece PH (platform) under the case making sure there are three or four hard contact points, between the server case and the platform and also between platform and rack/floor.

If you are looking to protect from Electromagnetic interference (EMI) better options are relatively thick copper or aluminum walls and mounting plates (flatbar) that will also take up less space. Just a thought.

 

You're correct in that the panzerholz will be very thin between the case and transformer. I don't know how much it will help but hope for something.  Air circulation is a concern.  I may drill more holes in the side and top of the case to allow for heat dissipation. It does not get too hot inside its cage now.

 

While copper might be ideal or at least it looks nicer, I know this works. I've used it in my last server build and for other components. I've heard the improvement.  There are varying thicknesses.

 

AB5100SHF 3M Electronic Specialty | Mouser

 

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