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Capacitor life

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1 hour ago, sandyk said:

I presume that you have tried squirting some Isopropyl Alcohol into it ?

 

This is a case where the pins soldered to the board are possibly broke. I won't know until I un-solder the switch, but at that point I'd rather just replace with new. I hope that there may be a part number on the top side. 

 

MAK

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3 hours ago, Racerxnet said:

Can any of you guys identify the rotary selector switch used for the mid range setting. I am looking for a direct replacement before having to re-engineer the switch to the board. Upper left side of pic. The output to the midrange panel  is intermittent when wiggling it. 

 

 

This is a killer giveaway as to what may be degrading the SQ - the ol' weakest link in the chain will always determine the strength of the whole ...


Frank

 

http://artofaudioconjuring.blogspot.com/

 

 

Ahhh, Mankind ... Porsche intellect, Trabant emotions ...

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1 minute ago, fas42 said:

This is a killer giveaway as to what may be degrading the SQ - the ol' weakest link in the chain will always determine the strength of the whole ...

 

Do you know where I can find the single deck rotary switch? 3 position, right angle, through hole. That's the question. 

 

MAK

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32 minutes ago, fas42 said:

 

the ol' weakest link in the chain will always determine the strength of the whole ...

 

Thanks!

 


Girl, you want it, you take it, you pay the price

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55 minutes ago, Racerxnet said:

 

Do you know where I can find the single deck rotary switch? 3 position, right angle, through hole. That's the question. 

 

MAK

 

Looking around , I can see your problem ... why don't you speak to Genesis, ask them where they sourced them?

 

Personally, I would hard wire the desired setting, job done ...


Frank

 

http://artofaudioconjuring.blogspot.com/

 

 

Ahhh, Mankind ... Porsche intellect, Trabant emotions ...

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21 minutes ago, fas42 said:

 

Looking around , I can see your problem ... why don't you speak to Genesis, ask them where they sourced them?

 

Personally, I would hard wire the desired setting, job done ...

 

Whats my problem? I already have a reply to Gary Koh for the switch. If he cannot source it I have to improvise. Hard wiring it is a poor choice. What frequency should it be wired to? How can I select a different frequency if hard wired? Is there a reason it needs to be hard wired?

 

Do you really think your position regarding the matter is a better engineered product that what Arnie Nudell and Paul McGowan have provided? I'd need hard data from you to find any credibility from what you state. What I do want is to identify the switch. It's place in the crossover network is transparent if properly speced and implemented.

 

MAK

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3 hours ago, Racerxnet said:

 

This is a case where the pins soldered to the board are possibly broke. I won't know until I un-solder the switch, but at that point I'd rather just replace with new. I hope that there may be a part number on the top side. 

 

MAK

 

There's some very good info in this thread, but with respect I would suggest you head over to AudioKarma.org - that place is filled with people who have years, sometimes decades, of rebuilding and repairing every aspect of speakers and can give pretty solid advice as to what to test first and what the pros and cons are of cleaning a switch, trying to repair the switch, sourcing a replacement for a switch, rebuilding a crossover, and so on. AudioKarma is not my go-to for knowledge on modern digital audio or for a culture dedicated to measuring equipment performance. But when it comes to using measurements to diagnose equipment problems and work on repairs, and when it comes to advice on how to go about determining what to repair and what to leave alone, I find the folks there to be among the most valuable on the internet.

 

 

2 minutes ago, Racerxnet said:

 

Whats my problem? I already have a reply to Gary Koh for the switch. If he cannot source it I have to improvise. Hard wiring it is a poor choice. What frequency should it be wired to? How can I select a different frequency if hard wired? Is there a reason it needs to be hard wired?

 

Do you really think your position regarding the matter is a better engineered product that what Arnie Nudell and Paul McGowan have provided? I'd need hard data from you to find any credibility from what you state. What I do want is to identify the switch. It's place in the crossover network is transparent if properly speced and implemented.

 

MAK

 

Don't go down the Frank rabbit hole. It never ends.

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1 minute ago, tmtomh said:

 

There's some very good info in this thread, but with respect I would suggest you head over to AudioKarma.org - that place is filled with people who have years, sometimes decades, of rebuilding and repairing every aspect of speakers and can give pretty solid advice as to what to test first and what the pros and cons are of cleaning a switch, trying to repair the switch, sourcing a replacement for a switch, rebuilding a crossover, and so on. AudioKarma is not my go-to for knowledge on modern digital audio or for a culture dedicated to measuring equipment performance. But when it comes to using measurements to diagnose equipment problems and work on repairs, and when it comes to advice on how to go about determining what to repair and what to leave alone, I find the folks there to be among the most valuable on the internet.

 

 

 

Don't go down the Frank rabbit hole. It never ends.

 

I have already determined with a meter that the switch is bad. I'd clean the switch, but broken pins are another matter. I could solder new leads onto the pins and give it a go if all else failed. Thanks for the heads up for the other web site and I will post if Gary cannot provide 2 new ones. Digikey has hundreds to choose from and I need to remove it to test the pinout. 

 

Thanks,

 

MAK

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2 hours ago, fas42 said:

 

Looking around , I can see your problem ... why don't you speak to Genesis, ask them where they sourced them?

 

Personally, I would hard wire the desired setting, job done ...

 

People are so busy trying to read "ill motives" in what I say, that they miss what I saying, by a mile ... 😜. That is, I had a look around at online suppliers, for suitable switches - and they're hard to find ...

 

1 hour ago, Racerxnet said:

 

Whats my problem? I already have a reply to Gary Koh for the switch. If he cannot source it I have to improvise. Hard wiring it is a poor choice. What frequency should it be wired to? How can I select a different frequency if hard wired? Is there a reason it needs to be hard wired?

 

So, you've got it under control.

 

The frequency that you normally listen to it at - or do you get up and switch it, regularly?

 

Hard wiring removes the weakness of using that type of switch in a high end system.

 

Quote

 

Do you really think your position regarding the matter is a better engineered product that what Arnie Nudell and Paul McGowan have provided? I'd need hard data from you to find any credibility from what you state. What I do want is to identify the switch. It's place in the crossover network is transparent if properly speced and implemented.

 

MAK

 

They will use what they see as a reasonable part - but I would find the quality of it, "unreasonable". I find it remarkable that people can't conceive that the integrity of the complete path is necessary for a high performance system - but I've noted this remarkable inability to see something of poor quality, right next to some premium, costly thing many times ... there's a belief that some type of magic is infused in audio circuits, that means that something exotic will miraculously compensate for the lacking elsewhere - in software, writing a brilliant bit of code in the middle of the other mess that's infested with bugs, does zero to improve matters ...


Frank

 

http://artofaudioconjuring.blogspot.com/

 

 

Ahhh, Mankind ... Porsche intellect, Trabant emotions ...

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Thanks to everyone on this small project. I was able to identify the wafer switch and get a replacement. New Rel-caps, switch and NP 300uf x 2, 100v, 5% caps. 

 

Mark

 

NewSwitch.thumb.jpeg.560f01dc818625b52d0f9f9a113f8645.jpeg

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I didn’t read every post in this thread so maybe I’m repeating information . . . 
 

PPT is a polystyrene film cap. It is a very high quality type and should last a very long time. Why does “hand made” make a difference?

 

Electrolytics are caps that will drift with time, say 15-20 years.

 

 I would be inclined to leave PPT type in unless you want to play with other caps (caps do sound different). If you have any electrolytics (looks like two electrolytics on that board) of that age I would definitely replace those, and with a good film cap if available in the correct capacitance.


Roon ROCK (Roon 1.7; NUC7i3) > Ayre QB-9 Twenty > Ayre AX-5 Twenty > Thiel CS2.4SE (crossovers rebuilt with Clarity CSA and Multicap RTX caps, Mills MRA-12 resistors; ERSE and Jantzen coils; Cardas binding posts and hookup wire); Cardas and OEM power cables, interconnects, and speaker cables

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23 minutes ago, beetlemania said:

I didn’t read every post in this thread so maybe I’m repeating information . . . 
 

PPT is a polystyrene film cap. It is a very high quality type and should last a very long time. Why does “hand made” make a difference?

 

Electrolytics are caps that will drift with time, say 15-20 years.

 

 I would be inclined to leave PPT type in unless you want to play with other caps (caps do sound different). If you have any electrolytics (looks like two electrolytics on that board) of that age I would definitely replace those, and with a good film cap if available in the correct capacitance.

 

I never said they were hand made and aware of Rel-caps reputation. With the cost of replacement speakers I will only replace parts that are of the same brand/value as original if possible.

 

The speakers were made around 1996 or so from when Arnie Nudell left Infinity, and started the Genesis brand in Colorado. The caps are old and I am updating the crossover with new parts while available. I'm not interested in changing the tonal qualities. The wafer switch was bad and had intermittent contact.

 

The original Culver 600uf 100v 5% cap was no longer available, so I piggybacked 2 x 300uf 100v 5% NP caps as seen. The new wafer switch installed, and new Rel caps as well.

 

The speakers are 25 year old. My cost per side is around $250.00. Cheap enough to do ail of the components on both sides of the crossovers. They will last another 25 years possibly.

 

Mark

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Racerxnet said:

 

I never said they were hand made and aware of Rel-caps reputation. With the cost of replacement speakers I will only replace parts that are of the same brand/value as original if possible.

 

The speakers were made around 1996 or so from when Arnie Nudell left Infinity, and started the Genesis brand in Colorado. The caps are old and I am updating the crossover with new parts while available. I'm not interested in changing the tonal qualities. The wafer switch was bad and had intermittent contact.

 

The original Culver 600uf 100v 5% cap was no longer available, so I piggybacked 2 x 300uf 100v 5% NP caps as seen. The new wafer switch installed, and new Rel caps as well.

 

The speakers are 25 year old. My cost per side is around $250.00. Cheap enough to do ail of the components on both sides of the crossovers. They will last another 25 years possibly.

 

Mark

 

 

I guess the question is then, did you get your rolled off highs back?


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On 1/26/2020 at 11:03 AM, beetlemania said:

PPT is a polystyrene film cap. It is a very high quality type and should last a very long time. Why does “hand made” make a difference?

It takes very big, very expensive machines to make good capacitors, the exact opposite of "hand made" capacitors.

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On 1/26/2020 at 4:03 PM, beetlemania said:

 

PPT is a polystyrene film cap. It is a very high quality type and should last a very long time. Why does “hand made” make a difference?

 

 

Tightness of the winding is critical for a good capacitor.

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I have an Aesthetix Calypso preamp that is about 10 years old.  It has Rel-Cap polypropylene coupling capacitors.

 

The unit is with Aesthetix right now for a very minor service issue.  

 

Does anyone have thoughts on replacing the caps while it is in for service?

 

 


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32 minutes ago, Blake said:

I have an Aesthetix Calypso preamp that is about 10 years old.  It has Rel-Cap polypropylene coupling capacitors.

 

The unit is with Aesthetix right now for a very minor service issue.  

 

Does anyone have thoughts on replacing the caps while it is in for service?

 

Hi Blake:

Those film caps will last another 15-20 years easily. The ends are well sealed from the air and the materials are quite stable. And based on changes in German films over the past 12 years, I’d say that the caps in your preamp are possibly better sounding than ones Rel is currently producing. So leave ‘em.

But get yourself some fresh tubes! 9_9

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