Richard Dale Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 6 minutes ago, Speedskater said: I think that you are correct! It was Handmade Electronics Co. that was selling them. in which case Reliable brand capacitors should last a century. There’s a doc here about them: http://www.reliablecapacitors.com/pdf/capacitors catalog.pdf it doesn’t actually mention expected lifetimes. Maybe I’m a bit gullible but I have to say I would expect things under a name like reliablecapacitors.com as fitted to mega expensive Genesis speakers to be reliable. System (i): Stack Audio Link > Denafrips Iris 12th/Ares 12th-1; Gyrodec/SME V/Hana SL/EAT E-Glo Petit/Magnum Dynalab FT101A) > PrimaLuna Evo 100 amp > Klipsch RP-600M/REL T5x subs System (ii): Allo USB Signature > Bel Canto uLink+AQVOX psu > Chord Hugo > APPJ EL34 > Tandy LX5/REL Tzero v3 subs System (iii) KEF LS50W/KEF R400b subs System (iv) Technics 1210GR > Leak 230 > Tannoy Cheviot Link to comment
Richard Dale Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 43 minutes ago, Racerxnet said: Richard, There is only 1 ribbon for each side. 15 tweeters for each panel. The ribbon is for the Mid range only. I am trying to nail down the issue as you describe without replacing everything like a shade tree mechanic. What has been suggested is that if I have to de-solder the caps to test with a meter, I may as well replace them. What do you suggest if you hear a rolled off top end?? MAK Are both channels the same? If so then I would have thought that indicates something might be ageing rather than actually failing. It seems unlikely that both channels would fail in the same way at the same time, and have the effect of rolling off the treble in the same way. System (i): Stack Audio Link > Denafrips Iris 12th/Ares 12th-1; Gyrodec/SME V/Hana SL/EAT E-Glo Petit/Magnum Dynalab FT101A) > PrimaLuna Evo 100 amp > Klipsch RP-600M/REL T5x subs System (ii): Allo USB Signature > Bel Canto uLink+AQVOX psu > Chord Hugo > APPJ EL34 > Tandy LX5/REL Tzero v3 subs System (iii) KEF LS50W/KEF R400b subs System (iv) Technics 1210GR > Leak 230 > Tannoy Cheviot Link to comment
Ralf11 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Maybe just sell the speakers or give them to Goodwill, then buy some new ones? Link to comment
4est Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 3 hours ago, Speedskater said: I think that those are hand made capacitors, so life span is questionable. Replace them with capacitors made by a major industrial capacitor manufacture. Surely you jest? Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
Popular Post 4est Posted January 7, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted January 7, 2020 4 hours ago, Racerxnet said: Whats the life span of capacitors in our equipment. I am asking because it seems that the top end is rolled off on my speakers and they are pushing 24 years old. The caps are REL-CAPS PPT series. What to replace them with?? Suggestions! MAK If your speakers are losing highs, it is not likely these. PM Superdad here, and he can give you the low down. These are a film and foil (polypropylene and tin?) capacitor, and they do not age like an electrolytic one. These are also not bad or hand made parts. You would have found these in ARC equipment IIRC. Sure there are better parts available, but they will cost you. It is possibly the problem, but unlikely IMO. To my knowledge these are still made under the AudioCap name. sandyk and Superdad 1 1 Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
4est Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 1 minute ago, Ralf11 said: ARC uses Infini-Caps They used to these IIRC. I don's own any modern ARC gear. Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
Richard Dale Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 8 minutes ago, Ralf11 said: ARC uses Infini-Caps They may well do today, but as at 1989 or when the SP9 mkII was being sold (I bought one then and still have it, so I have some personal interest in the lifetime of its caps), it had rel caps. Here is a picture of one: System (i): Stack Audio Link > Denafrips Iris 12th/Ares 12th-1; Gyrodec/SME V/Hana SL/EAT E-Glo Petit/Magnum Dynalab FT101A) > PrimaLuna Evo 100 amp > Klipsch RP-600M/REL T5x subs System (ii): Allo USB Signature > Bel Canto uLink+AQVOX psu > Chord Hugo > APPJ EL34 > Tandy LX5/REL Tzero v3 subs System (iii) KEF LS50W/KEF R400b subs System (iv) Technics 1210GR > Leak 230 > Tannoy Cheviot Link to comment
4est Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 2 minutes ago, Richard Dale said: They may well do today, but as at 1989 or when the SP9 mkII was being sold (I bought one then and still have it, so I have some personal interest in the lifetime of its caps), it had rel caps. Here is a picture of one: I bet they still work too! Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
Ralf11 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 12 minutes ago, Richard Dale said: They may well do today, but as at 1989 or when the SP9 mkII was being sold (I bought one then and still have it, so I have some personal interest in the lifetime of its caps), it had rel caps. Here is a picture of one: pic is broke but my ARC pre-amp is an LS25 Mk II https://www.arcdb.ws/LS25/LS25.html So, sometime between 1989 to 2000 or so was the change-over. Link to comment
Richard Dale Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 7 minutes ago, 4est said: I bet they still work too! Yes, as a side effect of this discussion I’ve learnt than my SP9 may well be still be going strong. I haven’t actually used it for about 10 years. I had been thinking of having a clear out and selling some stuff including the SP9, but assumed the SP9 used electrolytic caps which surely will be dead after thirty years, and was concerned it probably would be dead. But maybe not.. System (i): Stack Audio Link > Denafrips Iris 12th/Ares 12th-1; Gyrodec/SME V/Hana SL/EAT E-Glo Petit/Magnum Dynalab FT101A) > PrimaLuna Evo 100 amp > Klipsch RP-600M/REL T5x subs System (ii): Allo USB Signature > Bel Canto uLink+AQVOX psu > Chord Hugo > APPJ EL34 > Tandy LX5/REL Tzero v3 subs System (iii) KEF LS50W/KEF R400b subs System (iv) Technics 1210GR > Leak 230 > Tannoy Cheviot Link to comment
fas42 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 3 hours ago, Racerxnet said: What I see here is dodgy looking switching/adjusting hardware ... what I would immediately do is bypass that hardware with decent quality fixed value parts.or wire - and see what that told me ... Link to comment
Ralf11 Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 I'd keep the SP 9 for the switches and knobs alone... Link to comment
Richard Dale Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 3 minutes ago, Ralf11 said: I'd keep the SP 9 for the switches and knobs alone... Yes the SP9 has a strong family resemblance to the LS25, with the chunky switches and knobs. Some of the later ARC pre-amps look a bit cheap and nasty by comparison IMHO, such as this SP16: tmtomh 1 System (i): Stack Audio Link > Denafrips Iris 12th/Ares 12th-1; Gyrodec/SME V/Hana SL/EAT E-Glo Petit/Magnum Dynalab FT101A) > PrimaLuna Evo 100 amp > Klipsch RP-600M/REL T5x subs System (ii): Allo USB Signature > Bel Canto uLink+AQVOX psu > Chord Hugo > APPJ EL34 > Tandy LX5/REL Tzero v3 subs System (iii) KEF LS50W/KEF R400b subs System (iv) Technics 1210GR > Leak 230 > Tannoy Cheviot Link to comment
Racerxnet Posted January 8, 2020 Author Share Posted January 8, 2020 1 hour ago, 4est said: If your speakers are losing highs, it is not likely these. PM Superdad here, and he can give you the low down. These are a film and foil (polypropylene and tin?) capacitor, and they do not age like an electrolytic one. These are also not bad or hand made parts. You would have found these in ARC equipment IIRC. Sure there are better parts available, but they will cost you. It is possibly the problem, but unlikely IMO. To my knowledge these are still made under the AudioCap name. There is a Vishay resistor I'll test and see if it still specs out. MAK Link to comment
Speedskater Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 2 hours ago, 4est said: Surely you jest? About what? Turns out that I was incorrect about them being handmade. They are made by a major industrial capacitor manufacture Reliable. The should last a century. Link to comment
Archimago Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 1 hour ago, Racerxnet said: There is a Vishay resistor I'll test and see if it still specs out. MAK Hmmm, @Racerxnet, I'm thinking first things first before replacing stuff... Have you done some measurements on those speakers' frequency responses and maybe compared the the pair to see whether one is worse than the other? This will obviously also give you a baseline to compare if you did proceed to replace caps... Last thing you'd want to do is go in blind and perhaps make things worse! Archimago's Musings: A "more objective" take for the Rational Audiophile. Beyond mere fidelity, into immersion and realism. R.I.P. MQA 2014-2023: Hyped product thanks to uneducated, uncritical advocates & captured press. Link to comment
Ralf11 Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 also, pop the grill off and look at foam surrounds on the cones - use a bright flashlight beam RickyV 1 Link to comment
fas42 Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 3 hours ago, Richard Dale said: Yes the SP9 has a strong family resemblance to the LS25, with the chunky switches and knobs. Some of the later ARC pre-amps look a bit cheap and nasty by comparison IMHO, such as this SP16: Chunkiness may be satisfying visually, and to the touch - but it doesn't guarantee adequate electrical integrity for optimum SQ. Personally, I would favour the the more recent preamp as possibly having a better technical solution for controlling its functions. tmtomh 1 Link to comment
4est Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 9 hours ago, Speedskater said: About what? Turns out that I was incorrect about them being handmade. They are made by a major industrial capacitor manufacture Reliable. The should last a century. You weren't just a little wrong, but completely off base. If you don't actually know, perhaps you should not guess or speculate- that's spreading FUD. A film and foil cap used in a speaker should last the life of the speaker. Of course it is possible that there is a defective one, but it seem really unlikely both would fail the same. sandyk 1 Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
Racerxnet Posted January 8, 2020 Author Share Posted January 8, 2020 10 hours ago, Archimago said: Hmmm, @Racerxnet, I'm thinking first things first before replacing stuff... Have you done some measurements on those speakers' frequency responses and maybe compared the the pair to see whether one is worse than the other? This will obviously also give you a baseline to compare if you did proceed to replace caps... Last thing you'd want to do is go in blind and perhaps make things worse! Gary Koh wrote a reply some time ago regarding the bass columns accelerator causing a plus minus 18db response from 18 to 90hz. This may be the cause of the issue. I'll measure this soon. I have not done anything so far but investigate where the problem may be. Reliable Cap is going to send me the specs that Genesis requested for cap values. Thanks to everyone on this. Mark tmtomh 1 Link to comment
StephenJK Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 On 1/7/2020 at 3:33 PM, Richard Dale said: Are you sure that REL-CAPS PPT caps are electrolytic? It would seem strange to me be fit a high quality speaker with cross overs that might fail after only 20 years. My mistake, I foolishly presumed they were electrolytic types, otherwise there wouldn't be an issue with aging, or shouldn't be. I have seen electrolytic capacitors used in the Klipschorn speaker crossovers. Link to comment
4est Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 On 1/7/2020 at 3:39 PM, Richard Dale said: Well I believe ‘REL’ in the name is short for reliable, and so I’m not particularly convinced by that argument. Correct. Reliable is an OEM manufacturer. These are not some boutique parts. tmtomh 1 Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
Racerxnet Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 Can any of you guys identify the rotary selector switch used for the mid range setting. I am looking for a direct replacement before having to re-engineer the switch to the board. Upper left side of pic. The output to the midrange panel is intermittent when wiggling it. Link to comment
sandyk Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 51 minutes ago, Racerxnet said: Can any of you guys identify the rotary selector switch used for the mid range setting. I am looking for a direct replacement before having to re-engineer the switch to the board. Upper left side of pic. The output to the midrange panel is intermittent when wiggling it. I presume that you have tried squirting some Isopropyl Alcohol into it ? How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file. PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020 Link to comment
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