Capacitor life

[tmtomh]

3 hours ago, Racerxnet said:

 

This is a case where the pins soldered to the board are possibly broke. I won't know until I un-solder the switch, but at that point I'd rather just replace with new. I hope that there may be a part number on the top side. 

 

MAK

 

There's some very good info in this thread, but with respect I would suggest you head over to AudioKarma.org - that place is filled with people who have years, sometimes decades, of rebuilding and repairing every aspect of speakers and can give pretty solid advice as to what to test first and what the pros and cons are of cleaning a switch, trying to repair the switch, sourcing a replacement for a switch, rebuilding a crossover, and so on. AudioKarma is not my go-to for knowledge on modern digital audio or for a culture dedicated to measuring equipment performance. But when it comes to using measurements to diagnose equipment problems and work on repairs, and when it comes to advice on how to go about determining what to repair and what to leave alone, I find the folks there to be among the most valuable on the internet.

 

 

2 minutes ago, Racerxnet said:

 

Whats my problem? I already have a reply to Gary Koh for the switch. If he cannot source it I have to improvise. Hard wiring it is a poor choice. What frequency should it be wired to? How can I select a different frequency if hard wired? Is there a reason it needs to be hard wired?

 

Do you really think your position regarding the matter is a better engineered product that what Arnie Nudell and Paul McGowan have provided? I'd need hard data from you to find any credibility from what you state. What I do want is to identify the switch. It's place in the crossover network is transparent if properly speced and implemented.

 

MAK

 

Don't go down the Frank rabbit hole. It never ends.