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The Computer Audiophile

Analog Cable Help

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9 hours ago, The Computer Audiophile said:

Great stuff. My network is all UniFi. 

Yep, without Ubiquiti I wouldn't have internet.  Pretty much look at them first for any networking or wireless needs.


And always keep in mind: Cognitive biases, like seeing optical illusions are a sign of a normally functioning brain. We all have them, it’s nothing to be ashamed about, but it is something that affects our objective evaluation of reality. 

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6 hours ago, The Computer Audiophile said:

Not a fan of them. Been through more batteries over the years than I care to remember. There are always battery issues when I need the drill most. Plus, I believe corded drills have better power. 

Modern professional cordless tools are generally pretty good. Older Ni Cad battery powered stuff left something to be desired and would always need to be charged if they weren't used often. For the typical infrequent user you are correct to stick with the corded variety. A quality corded tool will out live most home owners.


Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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this site needs a cordless tools debate!

 

 

(honestly, the newer Li batteries are much better than even NiMH ones - try a cordless drill and see how you like it)

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2 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

this site needs a cordless tools debate!

 

 

(honestly, the newer Li batteries are much better than even NiMH ones - try a cordless drill and see how you like it)

Such a subjective response without any statistical data to back your opinion. As if I can't have an opinion unless I've tried it, blah blah blah.

 

 

Only joking. I know we all have good senses of humor and need to exercise them once in a while :~)


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I have anecdotal "data" - here we go!

 

My el cheapo Ryobi Li cordless does a much better job than my pro Milwaukee NiMH based unit ever did and it weighs less.

 

I am not able to overcome epidiectic memory (or whatevah) to compare them side by side for torque or battery life as the Milwaukee died after falling off a ladder a few times.  it was hard to kill but eventually succumbed.

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On 1/7/2020 at 12:10 AM, Ralf11 said:

not the Sears ones...

Craftsman is now a Stanley Black & Decker brand and sold at Lowe's.  All the Sears around me have closed.


QNAP TS453Pro w/QLMS->Netgear Switch->Netgear R7800 Router->Ethernet (50 ft)->Netgear switch->SBT->iFi xDSD->Linn Majik-IL (preamp)->Linn 2250->Linn Keilidh; Control Points: Squeeze Commander (DroidX) & iPeng (iPad Air); Also: Rega P3-24 w/ DV 10x5; OPPO 103; PC Playback: Foobar2000 & JRiver; Portable: Sony NWZ_ZX1 & ZX2 w/ PHA-3; SMSL IQ, Fiio Q5, iFi Nano iDSD BL; Garage: Edifier S1000DB Active Speakers  Wish List: New DAC,  SBT replacement; Dream system: Linn EXACT or ATC Active or Big Tubes (KR or Nagra or Shindo or ...)

 

My goal is to use appliances and take home PC out of the chain...

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5 hours ago, 4est said:

This isn't just about the batteries. The newer brushless motors are much stronger and more efficient.

 

How much newer (or to ask another way, how recent)?


One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> wi-fi to router -> EtherREGEN -> microRendu -> USPCB -> ISO Regen (powered by LPS-1) -> USPCB -> Pro-Ject Pre Box S2 DAC -> Spectral DMC-12 & DMA-150 -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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AFAIK, the Milwaukee M series of any year and current DeWalt items are best.  I have a 10 year old Ryobi which is fine for heavy DIY use.

 

- not a precise answer but hope it helps

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On 1/6/2020 at 8:13 PM, The Computer Audiophile said:

Not a fan of them. Been through more batteries over the years than I care to remember. There are always battery issues when I need the drill most. Plus, I believe corded drills have better power. 

 

This thread revival reminds me of two things...

 

First, you can get much better power and more precise hole location if you change your drill's power cord to a drill-o-phile version - very expensive but worth it!

 

Second, even the best corded drills will be afflicted by noise transmitted along the cord.  You -could- upgrade your electrical panel, but with a cordless drill, noise will be greatly reduced, (tho not completely eliminated as the inherent chemical nose from the battery will still be present).

 

So there are 2 choices - a lot will depend upon whether your drill uses tubes or not.

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On a serious note, I bought a heavy duty electric garden shredder years ago - serious stuff, made from thick sheets of metal, all welded together, with a commercial quality electric motor. Had a big warning in the guide, "Do not use a long extension cord!!" - IOW, the voltage drop when sucking big amps could be a problem.

 

But I wanted to shred waaay down in the back yard - so I started a hunt for serious power cable, and finally found the one local place that sold 240V/25A cable by the length - emptied half the shops reel! 😁 Lovely, juicy copper in it, it was a battle to get the cord into the plugs at either end - and worked nicely. Unit had plenty of grunt - now and again triggered the circuit breaker on that spur when working on some really meaty branch; had to wander back to the house and reset it, 😉.


Frank

 

http://artofaudioconjuring.blogspot.com/

 

 

Ahhh, Mankind ... Porsche intellect, Trabant emotions ...

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4 hours ago, Jud said:

 

How much newer (or to ask another way, how recent)?

You cannot really pin point by age, but by tech. As Ralf has pointed out, you want the LI batteries, and a brushless motor. I cannot keep track of all of the brands. Although my shop has duplicates of all corded stuff, I am crossing over to all cordless rarely thinking that I need to grab a corded one specifically. I buy Milwaukee and Makita. FWIW, the Li batteries hold a charge much better than NiCad or NiMH, but if you only use it twice a year, get a corded tool.


Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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