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joes1234

Audiophile grade computer?

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I want to eliminate as much noise that could be added during playback.

 

I intend to play my files (WAV. ripped directly from my CD's)  from my Laptop.

DELL Inspirion 15 7000 gaming, 

It has no fans just thermal cooling, so hopefully no extraneous noise.

and directly connect it to my Oppo UDP-205 as a DAC and then to my stereo.

I am including a pic of the 205's rear sockets.

I intend to use the USB DAC input.

Cardas clear serial bus wires.

 

 

My question is;

1) What is considered an audiophile grade computer?

2) Will the dac clean out any added noise if there is any from the computer?

3) Is the connecting USB wire a consideration?

     

 

B-Oppo cd rear UDP-205-back-hr.jpg

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It's the old story, "everything matters" and these questions are big topics across many forums. But you don't have to try for the end game right from the start.

 

1. There's a lot of info on this site and on www.jplay.eu on how to build a great server/player pc based system. Some reading will be good for you. For software, use Audiophile Optimizer to tune the operating system and get a quality player such as Jriver, or my favourite Jplay Femto (this is astoundingly good). Windows Server 2019 sounds very good and much better than Windows 10.


2. The dac won't clean up noise or jitter from the pc. An optical connection (toslink) will isolate it from electrical noise and may be a good place to start. You'll need a usb-spdif converter - there are many at any price level. 

 

3. The usb cable matters, but to a lesser extent. You can start with a good quality commercial one and try others out when you're up and running.

 

A good tweak is to unplug the notebook from the wall while listening to audio, just running from the battery. Having no fans is great as they also inject electrical noise. You'll need to decide where to keep your music: internal or external drive or a nas.

I remember my first steps well, have fun.

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49 minutes ago, rando said:
  1. Any computer used as a base upon which to effect the requisite number of changes you implement for your own listening pleasure.  Whether that is choosing to use what you have, trying everything on the market, or conducting a mad science project without end.
  2. Partial answer is all that is possible.  Adding a second device with considerably larger and better implemented handling of power will have an effect.  Not necessarily fitting the loosely structured question as presented.  The amount of noise present from your home's electrical source is certainly a consideration.  We live in an age where there are countless solutions to problems you may not have or have any need to solve.  Half the fun is figuring out if the addition of them fixes a problem you actually have or do anything at all.  Common sense and experimenting will offer much in the way of wisdom.
  3. Cable construction makes a bigger difference at either end of the spectrum where atypical methods are most likely to be encountered.  Using a good quality $10 USB cable will take you quite far in price and SQ.  You may have to step up to a custom made one if your needs expand beyond straight connectors in standard lengths etc.  Cable debates are anathema, though I'd say most would take this in the context offered.  :)

 It may be very worthwhile using an IsoRegen as well.


How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

 

PROFILE UPDATED 18-06-2019

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Stating what is not an audio grade computer might be helpful.
Take the TRX40 chipset for example.

A couple sources of information on the subject:

The AMD TRX40 Motherboard Overview: 12 New Motherboards Analyzed 
"AMD did not include any onboard passthough audio in the chipet. That means that all the motherboard vendors that are using a Realtek HD audio codec for the rear audio have had to include the ALC4050H audio codec to bridge the USB to the I2S. The Realtek ALC4050H is used to integrate a bridge between the chipset and USB 2.0 to give the Realtek ALC1220 all the necessary connectivity to the onboard audio."
 

TRX40 AORUS Master Vs. ASRock TRX40 Creator - Bigger is NOT Always Better. 

Of course a serious person wouldn't use integrated audio anyway.  Still, I'm dismayed and dumbfounded by what AMD did with their supposed "creator" chipset.  When did audio become the PC industry's undesired step child?

I don't do high fidelity playback but rather content creation and audio editing.  For my needs, I might consider an AM4 socket chipset instead of the TRX40 because of AMD's I2Sgate (think Watergate or Ukraine-gate).

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I have a Dell Inspiron 7000 17" laptop. It sounds fine in my headphone system, as long as I don't use the laptop's USB bus (I use a iFi Audio iDefender and 5V iPower).

 

I tried the Dell in my main system and found it too compromised. An iPurifier2 made it tolerable, but not something I would want to live with for long. An IsoRegen or something might make it better but maybe not the best solution.

 

I suggest you connect a streamer/renderer to your DAC, and use the Dell as a remote controller and server. There are plenty of small board computers geared specifically to audio, from Allo, Sonore, SOtM, etc. They will all sound significantly better than the laptop.

 

I use an SOtM sMs-200 Neo with Oyaide neo d+ Class A USB cable and I am very happy with that combo.

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23 hours ago, joes1234 said:

I want to eliminate as much noise that could be added during playback.

 

I intend to play my files (WAV. ripped directly from my CD's)  from my Laptop.

DELL Inspirion 15 7000 gaming, 

It has no fans just thermal cooling, so hopefully no extraneous noise.

and directly connect it to my Oppo UDP-205 as a DAC and then to my stereo.

I am including a pic of the 205's rear sockets.

I intend to use the USB DAC input.

Cardas clear serial bus wires.

 

 

My question is;

1) What is considered an audiophile grade computer?

2) Will the dac clean out any added noise if there is any from the computer?

3) Is the connecting USB wire a consideration?

     

 

B-Oppo cd rear UDP-205-back-hr.jpg

 

answers as follows

 

1) there is no exact answer only directionally correct principles. A laptop is rarely a good choice as server to DAC because its hardware architecture is hobbled. But you can use it as a control point for a server. For an off the shelf server solution the sonic Transporters are a good starting server choice, offering great flexibility for music OS/player preference. WAV will make your life harder, some media players will ignore

them because of lack of meta tags.

 

https://www.smallgreencomputer.com/products/sonictransporter-i5?variant=20893269700

 

2) the answer is no. Electrical contaminants in signal and 5v USB are a major problem for good asynch  USB DAC playback. A good power supply is essential as well as an electrically quiet computer. Assuming you have a DC powered server between 5-19v, HDPlex200W is quite good

 

3) yes. Lush 2 USB cable  is a favorite on this site.


Regards,

Dave

 

Audio system

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  1. Any computer used as a base upon which to effect the requisite number of changes you implement for your own listening pleasure.  Whether that is choosing to use what you have, trying everything on the market, or conducting a mad science project without end.
  2. Partial answer is all that is possible.  Adding a second device with considerably larger and better implemented handling of power will have an effect.  Not necessarily fitting the loosely structured question as presented.  The amount of noise present from your home's electrical source is certainly a consideration.  We live in an age where there are countless solutions to problems you may not have or have any need to solve.  Half the fun is figuring out if the addition of them fixes a problem you actually have or do anything at all.  Common sense and experimenting will offer much in the way of wisdom.
  3. Cable construction makes a bigger difference at either end of the spectrum where atypical methods are most likely to be encountered.  Using a good quality $10 USB cable will take you quite far in price and SQ.  You may have to step up to a custom made one if your needs expand beyond straight connectors in standard lengths etc.  Cable debates are anathema, though I'd say most would take this in the context offered.  :)

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