LPSU choices, new contender.....

[4est]

2 hours ago, jabbr said:

 

Oh that’s nice. 

 

The cheap toaster ovens have IR bulbs on top and bottom which allows uniform heating. You place a temperature sensor so that you could control the temp by cycling the toaster on and off. The automatic device cycles the toaster on and off to set the temperature as desired, and thus can vary with time. 

 

You can also also use one of the laser thermometers to measure the actual temp on the board. 

Not to throw a wrench in the works, but Paul was discussing repairs. I would never risk the whole board to replace one damaged part. In a pinch, two irons removes a resistor or cap. For ICs, saw off the legs with a knife and use some solder wick. For that matter, with boards like Shadder's example, I've just soldered it all by hand with a pair of optivisors.

[mansr]

5 minutes ago, 4est said:

Not to throw a wrench in the works, but Paul was discussing repairs.

That's where the hot air gun comes in.

[Ralf11]

5 hours ago, Ajax said:

Ralf sometimes trying to be funny doesn’t always work, this is one such occasion.

 

Either contribute or find another thread 

 

Sorry - I had no idea you were appointed as hall monitor

[Neverfinished0]

22 hours ago, BigAlMc said:

Hi Paul,

 

Two questions. One easy, one a bit more challenging.

 

I'm considering my DC power supplies currently and am potentially in the market for 2 x 12 to 19v PSUs capable of 1.5 to 3amps each. (These would be to power two Intel NUCs).

 

Forgive me being candid but your website didn't help me figure out which of your units was best. Would you recommend I consider two of the DC units or one of the Big Supply units (I assume these are dual rail?).

 

Second, more challenging, question. The Op compared your PSUs favourably to the Paul Hynes SR4. This is high praise indeed (and probably explains some of the testing responses he received) given the reputation Mr Hynes products have here.

 

Without asking you to give away your secret sauce, why should I consider taking a punt on your work? No offence intended and genuine question.

 

Cheers,

Alan

Hi Alan
This site appears to have some most dis-agreeable persons commenting - so I will be brief before I probably leave the Forum. A little knowledge is always dangerous my old gurus used to say.
I make LPSU's directly for each individual Clients' requirement. The designs are proven "DEAD ZONE" as noiseless as possible from many years of production.
The smaller LPSUs I make are limited in current output by the size of the case and the Toroidal employed. 50VA being the limit.
The carefully designed circuit boards are able to drive up to 15Amps and are extendable.to deliver even more power at the voltage required in larger cases.
The larger PSU cases can have single or multiple Low Noise Modules within the same case - employing a much larger Toroidal or multiples and dedicated larger heatsinks.
If you have 2 x 19VDC devices - we need to know the current that they will need.
I always go twice power in the units I make - so if the DAC manufacturer quotes 2Amps @ 19VDC - then I make a unit capable to deliver 4Amps at that Voltage.
This concept ensures the client will not have any concerns about 24/7 use - I would be pleased to discuss your requirements elsewhere.
Thankyou for your support 
 

[mansr]

2 minutes ago, Neverfinished0 said:

noiseless

Ain't no such thing.

[Ralf11]

Do you have any noise measurements for your designs?

[jabbr]

1 hour ago, 4est said:

Not to throw a wrench in the works, but Paul was discussing repairs. I would never risk the whole board to replace one damaged part. In a pinch, two irons removes a resistor or cap. For ICs, saw off the legs with a knife and use some solder wick. For that matter, with boards like Shadder's example, I've just soldered it all by hand with a pair of optivisors.

 

Absolutely and I have a small hot air gun for this purpose. I was commenting generally on techniques that hobbyists might use. 

 

I see that there are $200 range reflow ovens now but haven’t used one. There are a number of great SMD packages which are super low inductance but the contacts are all under the package and the temp controlled  oven is so much better for that!

[mansr]

28 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

Do you have any noise measurements for your designs?

Or any other interesting parameters like load regulation.

[RickyV]

And he is off.

 

46 minutes ago, mansr said:

Ain't no such thing.

He didn’t say that did he, as noiseless as possible,  not very strong response from him but think you have to read it as, as noiseless as I can make them. 

I do not think you or @Ralf11 are going to get a satisfactory response out of him. 

 

 

[mansr]

7 minutes ago, RickyV said:

He didn’t say that did he, as noiseless as possible, not very strong response but think you have to read it as, as noiseless as I can make them. 

That tells me precisely nothing.

 

Oh, I see the post has been edited. The "as possible" part wasn't there when I replied.

[RickyV]

And that is what he what’s to tell you “ noting”, or he doesn’t know.

 

But still they can be good power supplies for non audiophile prices, that should interest you.

[mansr]

5 minutes ago, RickyV said:

And that is what he what’s to tell you “ noting”, or he doesn’t know.

 

But still they can be good power supplies for non audiophile prices, that should interest you.

Sure, they might be good. There's just no way of knowing. Any number of reputable vendors will sell properly specced power supplies for perfectly reasonable prices, so I'll rather use those.

[Neverfinished0]

That's it guys - Have fun arguing incessantly amongst yourselves - I do not have time to waste with this nonsense.
I joined the group yesterday to protect one of my very satisfied customers who had the temerity to suggest alternatives to cheap Chinese LPSUs and very expensive ones.
I told him not to take any notice of Forums as they are full of people the majority of whom do not know much about the subject.
I will now leave - having fielded over 150 inane comment emails today - yet successfully helping my client out a bit with my support and expertise and showing my "ignore Forum comments" as being true .
Thanks for the Fish and Goodbye!
 

[RickyV]

6 minutes ago, mansr said:

Sure, they might be good. There's just no way of knowing. Any number of reputable vendors will sell properly specced power supplies for perfectly reasonable prices, so I'll rather use those.

 

Okey, how do you know a Paul Hayes lpsu is any good. 

[RickyV]

Maybe we have to wait for someone who can measure the noise, slew rate and the output impedance of these lpsu.

[mansr]

2 minutes ago, RickyV said:

Okey, how do you know a Paul Hayes lpsu is any good. 

I don't, and I wouldn't consider buying one.

[RickyV]

Yes, @Neverfinished0 don’t mind us we are crazy, sorry for all of this.

[jabbr]

6 hours ago, Jud said:

 

Very nice work.

 

With this type of tremor, as @jabbr knows but others might not, it's a little more complex than just bracing.  This tremor is what's called "postural," which means that having the hand in certain positions triggers it.  Bracing would be helpful (and thanks for the idea), but I'd also need to try to ensure that my hand, wrist and forearm aren't in a bad position (one that triggers tremors) during soldering.

 

Yes absolutely! Actually everyone has some degree of tremor and what you say is true for everyone. The key is to arrange your hands and arms in a relaxing position. One reason I love the microscope is that you can arrange so that the head is at a comfortable level for your neck and you can look straight ahead. You then place your arms and hands in a relaxed position. What you have to learn is to look straight ahead even though the view is down (rotate 90 degrees around x axis)

[psjug]

I don't get the argument over parts packages.  Just use what works for you.  If I want electronics that I can rework (stuff I do is not audio related), I use SO and 1206 size which I can just replace with an iron and I find this easier than thru hole.  Personally anything smaller I just send to a shop; I would never consider DIY for size and parts count of something like what @Shadders showed us, but hats off to him or anyone else who would.

[Ralf11]

26 minutes ago, Neverfinished0 said:

Thanks for the Fish and Goodbye!
 

 

 

you missed putting in the word "all"

[mansr]

5 minutes ago, psjug said:

I don't get the argument over parts packages.  Just use what works for you.  If I want electronics that I can rework (stuff I do is not audio related), I use SO and 1206 size which I can just replace with an iron and I find this easier than thru hole.  Personally anything smaller I just send to a shop; I would never consider DIY for size and parts count of something like what @Shadders showed us, but hats off to him or anyone else who would.

I like 0402 for decoupling capacitors since they can be placed close to the IC pins without obstructing adjacent traces too much. Elsewhere, I find 0603 more comfortable to work with.

[psjug]

6 minutes ago, mansr said:

I like 0402 for decoupling capacitors since they can be placed close to the IC pins without obstructing adjacent traces too much. Elsewhere, I find 0603 more comfortable to work with.

I don't go smaller than 0603 just to keep the possibility of reworking.  Smaller than that I would have to give up.  I think you are a couple notches ahead of me.

[mansr]

1 minute ago, psjug said:

I don't go smaller than 0603 just to keep the possibility of reworking.  Smaller than that I would have to give up.  I think you are a couple notches ahead of me.

Pointy tweezers and a decent hot air station are your friends.

[psjug]

Just now, mansr said:

Pointy tweezers and a decent hot air station are your friends.

My hot air station only gets used to heat shrink wrap!

[marce]

14 hours ago, Neverfinished0 said:

That's it guys - Have fun arguing incessantly amongst yourselves - I do not have time to waste with this nonsense.
I joined the group yesterday to protect one of my very satisfied customers who had the temerity to suggest alternatives to cheap Chinese LPSUs and very expensive ones.
I told him not to take any notice of Forums as they are full of people the majority of whom do not know much about the subject.
I will now leave - having fielded over 150 inane comment emails today - yet successfully helping my client out a bit with my support and expertise and showing my "ignore Forum comments" as being true .
Thanks for the Fish and Goodbye!
 

Instead of spitting your dummy out of the pram, why not answer some of the points, it would gain more respect for your products...