Popular Post bobfa Posted January 13, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted January 13, 2019 We are trying a new wiki-esque method of showing the settings in AudioLinux. October 2019 Things evolve. Over time I have found that Euphony OS is simpler to install and run and it sounds better to me. I had been running a two box solution with a sever and a couple of different endpoints. My configuration changed over the summer when a new version of Euphony was released that runs the OS in RAM. I have migrated to a single box solution that uses my Xeon Server (see my Xeon thread on that) directly connected to my Kii Three Speaker system. See my profile for the system design. The NUC described here is a Wonderfull endpoint or server if needed. Get the best power supply you can afford and this thing sings! Notes as of 6/25/19 The Dawson Canyon NUC also know as the DNHE / DNKE / DNBE / DNFE system is classified as a commercial grade NUC with a 3yr life cycle. The dnh"E" stands for Extended Life. Most Intel NUC(s) have a refresh cycle of about 18 months to two years. However, anytime Intel releases a commercial grade system to the market, the life cycle is a minimum of 3yrs. According to the roadmap, the Dawson Canyon will continue to be on the market all of 2019 and 2020. Currently, we are dealing with an Intel shortage that should come to rest by the end of July. The NUC(s) impacted are mostly i7 and i3 Dawsons (in all formats H/K/B/F. At the root of the following thread you will find the beginning: If this construction system is too much for you to do, or you want to buy rather than build. Here is one option: I have started a thread on building a music server. See below: There has been a HUGE flurry of activity on the “Massive SQ” thread onAudiophileStyle. The discovery of putting a specific Intel NUC computer into the stereo system as the network endpoint running Audiolinux (AL) in RAM with no other disks has dramatically improved the audio quality for many of us. Here is a link to where the NUC part of this thread “started:” https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/30376-a-novel-way-to-massively-improve-the-sq-of-computer-audio-streaming/?page=359&tab=comments#comment-860030 Two primary NUC models are in use. The single board computers are typically put into a fan-less case, hooked up to a high-quality power supply, booted off of a USB stick into RAM. What I hope to accomplish here is to have a “recipe” for success. Just like baking a cake you need to have your tools and ingredients ready before you start. Remember this is first and foremost a DIY project and t is also a “Work In Progress”. For me, it is also a rousing success. From 0 to NUC/AL/RAM in 2 hours *Not including Prep* To bake our NUC cake, we need the following components and tools. Setup Tools USB Keyboard and Mouse HDMI Monitor and HDMI cable Power supply for the NUC. **** discussion on this later *** Small Phillips screwdriver Anti-static work strap. A well-lit place to work A Windows PC or Mac to download AL and set up the USB stick Internet connection Just the right amount of coffee What needs to be in your Stereo system Ethernet connection A USB cable to the DAC Power supply for the NUC/AL Roon system (my choice, there are others) What you need to buy Two NUC models have been popular in this project. From all reports, they both sound great. According to some the i7 model sounds better and costs more! Take the time to read the relevant parts of the “massive” thread. I chose to get the Core i7 model. Note that the prices are estimates for the USA and do not include tax, shipping, etc. The Celeron Model comes from Intel as a complete system in a box. You need to extract the computer from the box and mount it in the fan-less case. Intel NUC7i7DBNE single board computer. $575 Akasa NUC Plato X7D case $170 OR Intel NUC7CJYH. $130 Akasa Newton JC Fan-less. $100. https://amzn.to/2Wvd7fg Here is the rest of what you need to order: RAM Ballistix Sport LT 8GB Single DDR4 2400. $60. https://amzn.to/2WsAPZr USB Stick. SanDisk Ultra Flair 32GB USB 3. $10 Audio-Linux headless. $49. (license and one year support) Once you order up the parts and get everything in place, let us get Audiolinux setup installed on the USB stick. You can do this from Windows PC or a Mac. I have done both following the instructions on the audio-linux.com website and if you have a PC do it there for speed. The Mac method took 75min to build the same USB stick. *** Etcher does run on MacOS. You should be able to build the USB stick there. *** In your favorite Windows PC web browser download your Linux image and a copy of Etcher. http://audio-linux.com https://www.balena.io/etcher/ Put the USB stick in your machine. Install and run Etcher. Etcher prompts you for the location of the image file you want to flash to your USB stick. Etcher should show the target as your USB drive! MAKE Sure because it ERASES the target! It takes 10-15 minutes to complete flashing the USB stick. While the USB stick is flashing, we can build the NUC board into the case. For the rest of this setup, you need a nice clean workspace and your anti-static strap. Oh and go slow on the Coffee! First, unbox the case remove the top cover to inspect the inside and inventory all of the materials. The top case cover has four small Phillips head screws to remove. Here are three views inside the case. The above views are the inside front with the board holding the power switch, the LEDs and the two USB 3 ports. The small board is the two front USB 2 ports. Below is the inside rearview where the computer board is mounted and the shielded cutouts for the ports. Flip the case over and put the feet on so that to protect the bottom from scratches. There are four feet with screws to attach. Be sure to put them in the correct screw holes. You can now carefully set aside the case as we have to do a “fan-ectomy” on the NUC Board. You are dealing a bare computer motherboard; please observe standard anti-static protection procedures. An anti-static wrist strap and the anti-static bag that the board comes in are your friends. Here are pictures of both sides of the board. On the top side, you have the RAM and M.2 slots and some of the other connections for drives. The second picture shows the included fan and heatsink that we have to remove. First, you need to unplug the fan power cable. The connector is small so be careful pulling it off. Remove two small screws holding the fan down to the heatsink. The heatsink is attached to the motherboard with three screws. In the above picture, you can see them on the silver bar and in the recessed hole in the black part of the heatsink. Carefully remove the screws, and you can pull the heatsink away from the board. Note that the heatsink “grease” sticks them together a bit. Below you can see the separated heatsink and the board with the compound on the CPU (black part). Now you need to clean up the old heatsink compound from the CPU. Use cotton swabs and some alcohol to clean it off. The picture below shows the CPU module after cleanup. Next put the new heatsink grease on the CPU and the heatsink pad on the smaller black rectangle. The pad is a bit fussy to get stuck down. There are some pictures in the install page from Akasa that may help. In my case, they have an addendum showing how they now include the heatsink grease. From the picture below I used too much thermal paste! Thanks, @Dutch for pointing that out. A couple of dots would have been enough Here is a video of better ways. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYwHB2P6GmM It is time to install the board in the case. Carefully set the motherboard on the static bag aside and bring the case back to your workplace. Put the rear of the case closest to you and move the cables out of the way. Observe the part of the case where the CPU seats on the upraised heatsink and the four standoffs for mounting the board. There are four screws and fiber washers to hold the case in place. Carefully set the board CPU side down onto the case aligning it to the standoffs. Being careful not to strip the screws install them all but do not tighten. Once all four screws are in carefully tighten them down. I do them: upper left, lower right, lower left, upper right. Just my method! Next, it is time to connect the cables. The two USB 2 connectors are on the upper left, and the black thin flat ribbon cables plug into them. The two big USB 3 cables plug into the USB connectors on the top. Finally, the multi-color cable plugs into the header. The connector is keyed and goes on the leftmost pins. There is a hole blocked on the connector and a clipped pin on the board. With the connections completed installing the RAM in the bottom slot is next. The bottom slot is slot #2, but folks think it is the right place. The little RAM board goes in at an angle into the connector and is then pressed down to hook into the spring latches on the side. Dress the cables so that you can screw the top plate back on to the case! The “hardware” part complete. Now for the “smoke test.” You need to connect the keyboard, display, mouse, network. Finally, plug in the power cable and press the power switch to turn on the computer. ** do not plug the USB stick in yet ** Making the initial changes to the BIOS If the NUC passed the smoke test, the computer boots up to the BIOS where you have to make some settings changes. Note that on the first screen the UFEI Boot selection is ticked on. Note the temperatures of the CPU. Keep an eye on them as we go forward to make sure you did a good job on the heatsink grease! Mine here is under 30C which is GREAT. Set the BIOS clock on this screen if it is not right. Select the “Advanced” menu selection shown on the above screen to go to the next settings pages. Select the SATA tab and turn off SATA and the activity light. On the Boot Configuration page, I have mine set to boot USB first, Network last and the USB, and Optical are checked on. (may be able to uncheck the Optical). I may be doing a network boot, so I left it alone. On the Secure Boot tab, uncheck the Secure Boot item to disable it. Audioliniux does not use Secure Boot. On the performance tab under Processor, uncheck Hyper-Threading and Turbo Boost. The only other change I have made is to set the Primary Power setting to Balanced Enabled. I think others have set to Low Power. ** Note that this is all still a bit of an experiment and these settings may change. ** Insert your Audiolinux USB stick into one of the USB 3 connectors. You can now use the F10 key to save and exit the BIOS. Audiolinux Setup We are now on the final leg of the setup. With great thanks to Piero Olmeda, the author of Audiolinux distribution this part this part is pretty simple! When the machine boots up, some text goes by and if all is well the computer displays the Audiolinux menu screen. You may see a few differences in this screen depending upon what version of the system menu you have installed. Piero updates the different parts of the OS on a regular basis. Before we start with the configuration, you should update the system. This menu is driven merely by the cursor keys, and the enter key. So cursor down to the update menu and press enter. Since you are not getting ahead of me yet, you are booting and running off of the USB stick, so no RAM mode issues need to be addressed. Note that I am running this NUC as a Roon endpoint so I have not explored other audio packages. During the install steps, you need the default passwords for Audiolinux. I assume that they might change so, please refer to the Audio-Linux.com website to find them. (scroll down and look or search on the page for the correct passwords. Cursor down and select the update menu item. You need to run the first four updates if you are following along with me. I did them in order. (I do not know if that order is “correct”). You will need your passwords during this. After you have completed the last update of the Audiolinux menu go back to the first page and select option 8 Console Mode. That takes you to the command line. DON’T PANIC! Just type in the command: menuand press enter. You have restarted the Audiolinux menu, so the new version runs. You are now going to configure the system to be a Roon endpoint, run in RAM and extreme mode. From the first screen select the configuration menu item. The above screen appears. Select the Roonbridge men item to set-up endpoint. After that completes set number 14 (scroll down) Set real-time priority to “extreme." Finally, select 15 enable ramroot. Select Cancel to return to the main menu screen and select Reboot. The computer reboots and automatically loads the OS into RAM. As the machine boots up and pauses for a few seconds displaying this screen. It will automatically start-up in RAM after that delay. After the boot to RAM is complete, the Audiolinux menu appears. From the Audiolinux menu check the CPU temperature found on the “Status” page. Also check the Audio Status from the “Configuration” Page. HURRAY! Pat yourself on the back. Toast yourself! Your Audiolinux Roon endpoint should be fully operational. Grab a USB cable and DAC and hook them up. Fire up the Roon application to add the new device to your audio system. There are some more steps to perform, but for testing purposes, you can run the system right now to see how it works. I mentioned at the start of this article that a good power supply is beneficial for NUC to produce the best sound. The NUC runs from 12v to 19v DC. There are reports that running at 19V may sound better. Some of the users have the UpTone Audio LPS 1.2 running their Celeron NUCs. Others are using Paul Haynes supplies, and I am sure there are many others. I have an UpTone Audio JS-2 in my system, and it runs my NUC and my ISORegen. Before you put the NUC into production, there are some other settings that you need to do. I am a huge fan of having the clocks running correctly in my computers and setting up Audiolinux to use network time server to keep the clocks on the beat is essential. Some other items can be adjusted as needed. @austinpop has an excellent post describing how to do some of them. https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/54933-audiolinux-and-nuc-troubleshooting-and-tuning/?tab=comments#comment-901393 This little bit of cleanup work requires you to edit a couple of files and run a few commands on the command line in Linux. Now is also the time where you can do some of the fine-tuning and changes that may influence audio quality. I am not going to show the final tweaks of Audiolinux in this article. I want you to play, listen, and read some more. There is another thread on tuning and troubleshooting. https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/54933-audiolinux-and-nuc-troubleshooting-and-tuning/?tab=comments#comment-901393 **** IF you are going to have more than one AudioLinux device running Roon on your network you will most likely run into a problem where Roon gets confused about devices. You will have to apply the fix in this post: https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/54933-audiolinux-and-nuc-troubleshooting-and-tuning/?page=31&tab=comments#comment-918823 I am planning to post a summary of my settings over the next couple of weeks, and I have the time/date setup and fine-tuning in that. *** I am close on this one please stand by**** This article is a summary of my NUC build and a record for my own memory. I hope that others find value in it. There is so much work that has been done by others I cannot thank them all. I have to shout out to the following folks for all their work. @austinpop @lmitche @romaz @greenleo @hifi25nl @rickca I know that there are so many others I cannot remember them All! Thanks Bob Fairbairn ---------------------------------------------------------------- Adding WiFi to the build I have been thinking about adding a WiFi card to the build so I dug around and found the card and antennas on Amazon. So here is ONE WAY to add WiFi to the NUC Parts needed M.2 card for your NUC. In my case the Intel AC-8265. https://amzn.to/2Wt9mH2 Antennas and cables for the card. https://amzn.to/2Bcm5Vx Tools needed Phillips screwdrivers as before Needle nose pliers. 5/16 in socket wrench Small round file You might want to skip the coffee before you do this. Do not forget your anti-static protection ! This is the point where I have to play the robot on "Lost in Space". DANGER WILL ROBINSON The connectors on this card are tiny, fragile, and fussy. In my build, the Akasa case is anodized black and I could not insert the SMA connectors into the case without filing the holes out a bit. NOTE metal filings are conductive and can short out the CPU board. I HIGHLY INSIST that you remove the board and then file the case. HIGHLY INSIST! Here we go This is where the board will go and you can see the rubber grommet for one of the antenna leads. Note that the M.2 board mounting screw has a post below it that has to be removed to put the lower board in. Remove the screw and the post. Here is a view of the socket and the post with the board not installed. The second picture shows the board installed. I had to remove the board to install the antennas leads. *** DO NOT INSTALL THE BOARD BEFORE CONNECTING THE ANTENNA LEADS AND PUTTING THE SMA CONNECTORS ON THE CASE *** Here is the board with the antenna leads connected. It is really close quarters in there. Those connectors are fussy. This shows one of the antenna SMA connectors mounted in the case. I used a 5/16in nut driver to snug up the SMA to the case. The antenna is threaded on and you do not want a loose connector/cable. Finally, the case buttoned up antennas installed. I set up on the bench with keyboard, mouse, and monitor. I can then attach my Chord Mojo for quick test final test and initial audio quality review. Software and BIOS Setup for WiFi There is one BIOS change needed to enable the M.2 card in the machine. Look at the PCI page in Advanced Settings. The WiFi setup is now in the Audio Linux menu! And of course in operation. Foot notes after a few weeks in operation. 1. I have now re-connected the WiFi card as my new home network allows me to create multiple networks. I created a 5GHZ only network SSID for the endpoint. I have that running. I will report further. 2. I am having a very hard time determining if I can hear the difference of the USB stick in or out. I have made some other changes in the network since then and I will go back and re-test. mozes, tims, abdodson and 37 others 20 7 13 My Audio Systems Link to comment
Popular Post austinpop Posted January 13, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted January 13, 2019 Epic and brilliant post! A true service to the community. Thank you - and bravo! 👏 P.S. "just the right amount of coffee" - Middy and Don Blas De Lezo 2 My Audio Setup Link to comment
One and a half Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Thanks Bob for the great effort to post the install. Takes a lot of the mystery out of the equation. One possible ask is from @computeraudiophile to allow edits as time goes on AS Profile Equipment List Say NO to MQA Link to comment
austinpop Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 9 minutes ago, One and a half said: One possible ask is from @computeraudiophile to allow edits as time goes on I am pretty sure, although not 100% - so it would be good if @The Computer Audiophile confirmed - that the OP post can be edited in perpetuity, i.e. there is no time limited edit window. My Audio Setup Link to comment
bobfa Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 All, I will check but I can still edit the main post so we should be good. I had the idea of keeping the first post up to date with the configuration of my endpoint. I will be adding the other configuration changes for timezone, etc. to the post so it is "finished". There are two other threads around the server side configurations and the Audio Linux config testing thread. I will add them in above. I will still report sound quality findings on the "Massive" thread. Going forward here I am investigating a couple of endpoint themes and if they work out I will adjust the config as needed. IF anyone has updates that will help others to understand building your own endpoint, has suggestions for fixes, etc. Please feel free. I abbreviated a few things that could use some more words. Thanks for all the kind words and support! Off to work on my HDPLEX power supply powering the server homework @austinpop assigned the other day! My Audio Systems Link to comment
Blackmorec Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Hey Bob, That’s a really nice piece of work. Very useful for early adopters. And knowing my own IT limits this work makes the technology available to a far wider audience. Its a great example of what collaboration can achieve, so ‘hats off’ to all the pioneers involved Link to comment
Dutch Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Hi Bob, Wow, thank you for putting in the effort to document the entire process. This should be very useful for those not familiar in building computers. As several people tried all three of them I’d also mention the NUC7PJYH. This one is similar to the NUC7CJYH but has better availability and sounds better as well. The NUC7i7DN’xx’ would still be best out of these three but it is of course about four times as expensive. Regarding the build process I’m afraid you overused thermal paste on the CPU. It’s difficult to say how much to use exactly but the less that is used the better. What one wants is a thin layer filling up the microscopic holes between the CPU and heatsink. Of course you need not panic as the excess paste will be pushed out. I generally apply a 1mm wide line from top to bottom. That line will spread out, without bubbles, over the entire surface, when attaching the heatsink. Another technique is applying a drop in de middle. See for example: https://m.wikihow.com/Apply-Thermal-Paste System details Link to comment
bruny Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 I have an older model Intel NUC D54250WYK i5. I have it in a Akasa fanless H1 case. My question is would this model be suitable for this build. Link to comment
bobfa Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 4 hours ago, Dutch said: Regarding the build process I’m afraid you overused thermal paste on the CPU. It’s difficult to say how much to use exactly but the less that is used the better. What one wants is a thin layer filling up the microscopic holes between the CPU and heatsink. Of course you need not panic as the excess paste will be pushed out. I generally apply a 1mm wide line from top to bottom. That line will spread out, without bubbles, over the entire surface, when attaching the heatsink. Another technique is applying a drop in de middle. See for example: https://m.wikihow.com/Apply-Thermal-Paste Dutch I will put a note under the picture with your quote thanks. This helps with the goal of having a good summary in the mater posts. It is trying to fake a wiki! My Audio Systems Link to comment
bobfa Posted January 13, 2019 Author Share Posted January 13, 2019 2 hours ago, bruny said: I have an older model Intel NUC D54250WYK i5. I have it in a Akasa fanless H1 case. My question is would this model be suitable for this build. Bruny, I d do not know how that NUC will sound. There are a lot of variables! Before you do anything I do not know if the older devices will boot from UFEI as the new Audio Linux is setup to do. The procedure is pretty simple you could purchase an Audio Linux License, and a 32GB USB stick to test with. Then follow the sections for building the USB boot, setting up the BIOS and setting up Audio Linux. Bob My Audio Systems Link to comment
bruny Posted January 13, 2019 Share Posted January 13, 2019 Thanks Bob. Will maye try it see how it goes. Link to comment
Popular Post The Computer Audiophile Posted January 14, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted January 14, 2019 On 1/12/2019 at 8:00 PM, austinpop said: I am pretty sure, although not 100% - so it would be good if @The Computer Audiophile confirmed - that the OP post can be edited in perpetuity, i.e. there is no time limited edit window. I made @bobfa the moderator of this topic. We can now manually add anyone as a moderator fo a topic and get pretty granular with the rights of the moderator within the topic. auricgoldfinger, Lebouwsky, bobfa and 2 others 2 2 1 Founder of Audiophile Style | My Audio Systems Link to comment
DaQi Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 I just did the same build and was planning to post some pics but your post covers everything. I just went with a Windows 10 and JRMC install but the hardware is almost identical. Had a bit of problems sourcing the Intel NUC7i7BDNE board but got one from a company called SimplyNUC. The want to sell it with RAM and SSD but you can get the bareboard. I had an SSD and only needed to buy the RAM which I got elsewhere. The case was ordered on Amazon and took two weeks to arrive. It was easier to build than my previous build I did a couple years ago using an i5 NUC board and the first Akasa fanless case. One thing I noted was that this does not have an IR receiver while my older one did. I used an IR remote for a while but haven't used it in a long time so not a major loss. My NUC does double duty as a home theatre player for which I have VLC installed. That first smoke test is always a bit of a pucker moment while you wait for it to boot up and come to life. bobfa 1 Link to comment
bobfa Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 2 hours ago, DaQi said: I just did the same build and was planning to post some pics but your post covers everything. I just went with a Windows 10 and JRMC install but the hardware is almost identical. Had a bit of problems sourcing the Intel NUC7i7BDNE board but got one from a company called SimplyNUC. The want to sell it with RAM and SSD but you can get the bareboard. I had an SSD and only needed to buy the RAM which I got elsewhere. The case was ordered on Amazon and took two weeks to arrive. It was easier to build than my previous build I did a couple years ago using an i5 NUC board and the first Akasa fanless case. One thing I noted was that this does not have an IR receiver while my older one did. I used an IR remote for a while but haven't used it in a long time so not a major loss. My NUC does double duty as a home theatre player for which I have VLC installed. That first smoke test is always a bit of a pucker moment while you wait for it to boot up and come to life. I found that if you start the "purchase" process on the Intel NUC site it shows you places to buy the product. By doing that with Simply NUC you can avoid their up-sell items. I have purchased from SimplyNUC also. The Akasa cases seem to be in low stock. I wonder if we are increasing the demand?? Thanks for sharing what you built and your experience. My Audio Systems Link to comment
mrkoven Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Thanks a lot for the guide! Can this function as Roon core or just endpoint? Link to comment
bobfa Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 7 hours ago, mrkoven said: Thanks a lot for the guide! Can this function as Roon core or just endpoint? The computer could be a Roon core, mine is not yet setup to do that. I feel that it needs persistant storage so a 32GB Optane “SSD” for storage and then reconfigure Audio Liniux. I have the Optane SSD but I have not done the work to setup Audio Linux or installed it yet. This is on the “bucket” list. I am also looking at trying the endpoint with an internal wireless network. This “might” reduce the need for an audiophile network switch. My Audio Systems Link to comment
DaQi Posted January 17, 2019 Share Posted January 17, 2019 On 1/14/2019 at 7:15 PM, bobfa said: I found that if you start the "purchase" process on the Intel NUC site it shows you places to buy the product. By doing that with Simply NUC you can avoid their up-sell items. I have purchased from SimplyNUC also. The Akasa cases seem to be in low stock. I wonder if we are increasing the demand?? Thanks for sharing what you built and your experience. Yes, using the Intel site is eventually that is how I got to the bare board at SimplyNUC as it is almost impossible to find it otherwise. They were the only people that actually had stock. I ended up getting the Akasa case on Amazon but had to wait a couple weeks. Not sure if it is because it is new or because of demand that it took a while but it did come from the UK apparently. My original Akasa case I bought directly from Akasa in Taiwan prior to its general release as a developer's prototype. Having my own company (not in the IT industry) can be useful. Akasa makes great fanless cases for the NUC which is why I went back to them. Good for them if the demand is increasing as it should. It was a very easy build and everything fit well. I have been watching the temps on the core and am hovering around 35C which is great. Granted with the work it is doing that processor is idling. Link to comment
flkin Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 What an excellent effort! Bravo Bob! PinkFaun - Vinnie Rossi - YBA - QSA Lanedri - Wilson Link to comment
bobfa Posted January 18, 2019 Author Share Posted January 18, 2019 14 hours ago, flkin said: What an excellent effort! Bravo Bob! Filkin, Thank you very much. I am continuing to work to update the lead post to show in one place what I am doing. I am playing with NUC as a server right now, so that has been fun also. I will add to the first post some links as I get that part of the project completed. My Audio Systems Link to comment
luisma Posted January 18, 2019 Share Posted January 18, 2019 Very nice work thank you Link to comment
udis Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Thank you Bob for posting this tutorial. I've been considering experimenting with a NUC/AL and this is a great start! My primary need is for a roon server, I have a Rossini to serve as endpoint. Are you planning on implementing a bridged / clocked switch setup? In his original post, romaz mentioned the benefit of bridging and clocked switch. If so, it would be great if you could update this post. I currently have a bridged modded imac with clocked switch and would like to keep the switch and bridge at play. I am most curious about NUC hardware requirements and AL configurations to support bridging. Link to comment
bobfa Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Udis, I have an existing Roon Server that is bridged. The Sonic Transporter i7 DSP. I find that it works rather well. I have recently put an HDPLEX 200 power supply on it and the system sound quality improved. This is the point where I am today. I will be proceeding down a couple of paths. I have a TLS switch on order. I am writing up a system design post that will be out soon. Please hang on. Note that this post is NUC Roon AL endpoint. I am keeping it there. Each leg of my system design will have its own base post that I can keep up to date. My Audio Systems Link to comment
udis Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 thank you.. i look forward to your server side reports! Link to comment
Advieira Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 @bobfaCan I use Akasa NUC Plato X7 for NUCi7 without issues? Link to comment
bobfa Posted January 23, 2019 Author Share Posted January 23, 2019 If you are asking about for the server and the hardware on this thread yes it fits fine. The only addition for the server I am testing is the Optane memory. IF you are talking about some other build you need to check the exact model NUC on the Akasa case site to match the case to the board.. The Plato X7D case is designed for the Dawson Cannon chipset NUC. My Audio Systems Link to comment
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