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Allo Digione Signature


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9 hours ago, Boleary3 said:

I found the Digione Signature mounted atop the USB Signature Bridge to sound significantly better than the stand alone Digione in the plastic case. Also, I prefer the Digione output over the USB output of the Bridge. YMMV

 

Another happy USB Sig+Digione Sig user here. USB Sig is much better sounding than the RPi3.

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10 hours ago, Confused said:

Thanks for the input.  It looks to me like I just need to go for the Allo Digione Signature Player, this comes with the RPi 3 B, which based on the posts above looks like the best option.

 

@suzywong - I am not quite sure I understand the benefit from mounting the DigiOneSig on a USBrisgeSig?  Does this offer better sound quality or just better functionality with a USB option?

technically, the USBridgeSig, is claimed to have better supply regulation, and more of it - IIRC, 30 low noise regs, each powering a specific part of the board. Also AIUI, the USB out is decoupled from the Ethernet input, which should help the output waveform timing. I believe this is now done in the RPi4

 

in the analogue audio domain, more and better regulation can improve the SQ - you only have to spend an afternoon playing around with Naim amps/CDPs/streamers/Crossovers in their various supply configurations to hear clearly the  audible effects as you go "up" the PSU hierarchy*

 

* I do have sympathy with the argument that "having paid several thousand for a shiny new Naim amp/CDP/streamer, one should not then have to fork out another few grand to make it sound best - but that's for another thread.

 

in the digital domain, it is less clear cut ( coz it's all 1's & 0s, innit?), but reducing system noise is still inherently beneficial, which appeases my elect. eng. sensibilities :)

 

subjectively, i found that replacing the rpi3b with a usbsig had minimal effect, but then again i am taking the audio stream from the HAT mounted DigiOneSig. It is intended for use in a USB centric streaming solution. My nDAC, is SPDIF only, which is why I use the DigiOneSig.

 

one day I'll do some experiments with my Musical Fidelity DAC which has both USB & RCA SPDIF inputs.

 

So I can't claim there's any SQ benefit to replacing the RPi3B with a USBBridgeSig.....but the case is nice, and sits sympathetically alongside my Naim active system.  :D

 

However I reiterate, that the power supplies have the greatest effect on SQ, so a Shanti, or similar, should be the priority.

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certainly, I found that changing the power supply to the DigiOneSig made a  significant difference, as did Heckyman; indeed our trials with the Cuinas Audio Supercapacitor PS on a RPi3+DigiOneSig are well documented in a thread on Pink Fish Media. In my case including two barrel to USB-C adaptor cables from Cuinas to the DigiOneSig. Even more interesting was at that time, the two secondary supply outputs on the Cuinas were connected together, which was supposed to detrimental to the DigiOneSig. Nevertheless,  the improvement of the Cuinas over "RPi PSU on the dirty side and battery pack on the clean side" was clear and substantial.

 

IIRC the sequence, I then invested in the USBridgeSig as the host from the DigiOneSig (still with the Cuinas supply), followed a month or so later by the Shanti replacing the Cuinas. Neither of those changes had the same impact that the Cuinas did, but then neither was detrimental to SQ. So I've left it at that.

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3 hours ago, uniquesnowflake said:

 

There's one (big) caveat that I forgot to mention about my USB Sig+Digione Sig setup.

 

In Allo's stock configuration, the power for the "clean side" has to go through a Type-C extension cable that is connected to a DC socket at the back panel.

 

I suspect this has a noticeable detrimental affect to power delivery, which *may* be the reason why Digione Sig owners don't notice a noticeable improvement, especially since the clean side is critical to its performance. 

 

So instead, I skipped the cable and Type-C connector, and went directly to the board. The additional CLC filter is nice but not necessary, cdsgames said it could help so I thought why not ;)

 

If you have decent soldering skills or can find someone who does, I strongly recommend this mod. You'd be surprised!

 

 

afb6a53d240eeddb2a79dd204775c54c.jpg.38835fd680db1230612827c688313be3.jpg

 

2 minutes ago, suzywong said:

certainly, I found that changing the power supply to the DigiOneSig made a  significant difference, as did Heckyman; indeed our trials with the Cuinas Audio Supercapacitor PS on a RPi3+DigiOneSig are well documented in a thread on Pink Fish Media. In my case including two barrel to USB-C adaptor cables from Cuinas to the DigiOneSig. Even more interesting was at that time, the two secondary supply outputs on the Cuinas were connected together, which was supposed to detrimental to the DigiOneSig. Nevertheless,  the improvement of the Cuinas over "RPi PSU on the dirty side and battery pack on the clean side" was clear and substantial.

 

IIRC the sequence, I then invested in the USBridgeSig as the host from the DigiOneSig (still with the Cuinas supply), followed a month or so later by the Shanti replacing the Cuinas. Neither of those changes had the same impact that the Cuinas did, but then neither was detrimental to SQ. So I've left it at that.

 

Is there a how-to on this mod?  I've got a nice soldering iron and some free time, I'd like to give it a go and see what improvements there are to be had.  TIA!

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Many thanks for the recent posts.  I must admit that I had completely missed the USBridge Sig option when looking at Allo's website.  Note to Allo; maybe you should make the USBridge Sig an option from the DigiOne Signature page? I would have have missed it if it were not for the good people of AS pointing me in the right direction.

 

Anyway, looking at the recent posts here and after a bit of research myself, I have decided to go for the USBridge Sig + DigiOne Signature option.  It is not a bad price when bundled, and it looks like the best bet for SQ via S/PDIF.

 

As I mentioned before, my entire aim of doing this is to use S/PDIF and eliminate USB from my system.  That said, I note the recent comments re decent sound quality via USB.  As I can run my system using USB, the USBridge Sig USB option does at least give me the chance to try this, it will be interesting to try a head to head comparison with my sMS-200Ultra Neo.  The sMS-200Ultra is impressive in terms of detail and resolution, but I have never really fallen in love with it, tonally it does not seem to gel that well with my ears / system (whereas the microRendu did, interestingly).  In some respects the sMS is more hifi / less music, if that makes any sense.

 

Anyway, I look forward to getting the thing set up and trying it my system.  Thanks again for the recent posts, collectively you have saved me from going in slightly the wrong direction with this one.   🙂

Windows 10 PC, Roon, HQPlayer, SOtM sMS-200Ultra, tX-USBultra, Paul Hynes SR4 (x2), Mutec REF10, Mutec MC3+USB, Devialet 1000Pro, KEF Blade.  Plus Pro-Ject Signature 12 TT for playing my 'legacy' vinyl collection.

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hi, my name is Fabio and i live in Brazil. I have a odroid c2 and a raspberry pi 3b+. I connect pi or odroid c2 at my DAC(wyred4sound DAC1) with usb cable and i have a little drop when i play 24/48,24/96 or 24/192 music. I power up my raspberry with a 20000mah xiaomi battery.  I want to say if its a problem with a driver of my DAC in linux, and if i purchased a allo digione and connect my DAC with coaxial cable the problem dissapear?

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On 9/15/2020 at 8:57 PM, dontfeedphils said:

 

 

Is there a how-to on this mod?  I've got a nice soldering iron and some free time, I'd like to give it a go and see what improvements there are to be had.  TIA!

 

I don't really remember the number of the SMD cap the wires are connected to, but it should be easy to tell through the photo.

 

Simply connect the positive and negative of the DC inlet to the respective poles on the cap, and you're done! 

 

If you're interested in adding the CLC filter like I did, here's a link to the "official" values recommended by cdsgames 

 

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19 hours ago, 2pacshakur892 said:

hi, my name is Fabio and i live in Brazil. I have a odroid c2 and a raspberry pi 3b+. I connect pi or odroid c2 at my DAC(wyred4sound DAC1) with usb cable and i have a little drop when i play 24/48,24/96 or 24/192 music. I power up my raspberry with a 20000mah xiaomi battery.  I want to say if its a problem with a driver of my DAC in linux, and if i purchased a allo digione and connect my DAC with coaxial cable the problem dissapear?

 

Hi Fabio, it's quite a common issue with the RPi3 since ethernet and USB shares bandwidth. You'd bypass that problem by going i2s->SPDIF through the Digione board.

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5 hours ago, uniquesnowflake said:

 

Hi Fabio, it's quite a common issue with the RPi3 since ethernet and USB shares bandwidth. You'd bypass that problem by going i2s->SPDIF through the Digione board.

 

 

Thanks,

i have the same problem with odroid.

i change a config on snd_usb_audio module(autoclock=N) and i give some tests.

if the problem is solved i reply here.

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  • 4 weeks later...

After almost a year of using Shanti with Digione Signature. I now try the battery pack for Clean Power and Shanti for Dirty Power on Digione Signature. 

 

The result is mind-blowing, the dynamics and the speed of the sound have improved dramatically, the background is darker. However, the bass and mid bass are leaner and lose impact compared to when using powers from Shanti for both Clean and Dirty Power on Digione Signature. 

 

Could someone explain and help me to get the best of 2 worlds?

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1 minute ago, quanghuy147 said:

After almost a year of using Shanti with Digione Signature. I now try the battery pack for Clean Power and Shanti for Dirty Power on Digione Signature. 

 

The result is mind-blowing, the dynamics and the speed of the sound have improved dramatically, the background is darker. However, the bass and mid bass are leaner and lose impact compared to when using powers from Shanti for both Clean and Dirty Power on Digione Signature. 

 

Could someone explain and help me to get the best of 2 worlds?

What kind of battery are you using? 

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8 minutes ago, quanghuy147 said:

After almost a year of using Shanti with Digione Signature. I now try the battery pack for Clean Power and Shanti for Dirty Power on Digione Signature. 

 

The result is mind-blowing, the dynamics and the speed of the sound have improved dramatically, the background is darker. However, the bass and mid bass are leaner and lose impact compared to when using powers from Shanti for both Clean and Dirty Power on Digione Signature. 

 

Could someone explain and help me to get the best of 2 worlds?


I use the Allo battery pack for clean, and Shanti plus Ciunas Supercap for RPi (actually USBridge Sig). This sounds a bit better than just Shanti on its own. The only reason I do this is that I’d already purchased both supplies.
 

I’ve also found the Shanti responds to better power cords (even though it is only charging the supercap in my system!). If you have a selection of PC’s available, try your best one on the Shanti.

 

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8 minutes ago, Heckyman said:


I use the Allo battery pack for clean, and Shanti plus Ciunas Supercap for RPi (actually USBridge Sig). This sounds a bit better than just Shanti on its own. The only reason I do this is that I’d already purchased both supplies.
 

I’ve also found the Shanti responds to better power cords (even though it is only charging the supercap in my system!). If you have a selection of PC’s available, try your best one on the Shanti.

 

I just have power cord that goes with Shanti and battery pack. Where did you buy your PC may I know?

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49 minutes ago, quanghuy147 said:

I use Allo battery pack. 

This is how I use the digione sig (spdif coax) so its not exactly your use case, but close? 

It's possible that you are finally hearing what your dac sounds like after all the noise in your digital

signal is removed?

I'm feeding a Totaldac D1 dac and I've never been happier with digital. I guess someday I will 

upgrade to a Totaldac server but the Allo sounds so good that I am in no rush. I'm to sure why more folks don't use batteries on the clean side...they last about 6 or 7 days and then it takes 2 minutes to swap out for another changed set....

so easy.

 

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56 minutes ago, CrushingIt said:

This is how I use the digione sig (spdif coax) so its not exactly your use case, but close? 

It's possible that you are finally hearing what your dac sounds like after all the noise in your digital

signal is removed?

I'm feeding a Totaldac D1 dac and I've never been happier with digital. I guess someday I will 

upgrade to a Totaldac server but the Allo sounds so good that I am in no rush. I'm to sure why more folks don't use batteries on the clean side...they last about 6 or 7 days and then it takes 2 minutes to swap out for another changed set....

so easy.

 

 

Interesting idea!

 

Is there anyway old battery pack ruin the bass? Do you think buying 4 new batteries will make a difference?

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11 minutes ago, quanghuy147 said:

 

Interesting idea!

 

Is there anyway old battery pack ruin the bass? Do you think buying 4 new batteries will make a difference?

Old battery pack? I'm not sure what you mean. Its just a 50 cent battery holder, I can't imagine any differences. New batteries should not change anything..only last a little longer. I can't imagine anyway that changing from Shanti to battery on the clean side of an Allo can ruin the bass. But you should ask Allo

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13 hours ago, RX8R3ROD said:

Great to hear folks experimenting. 👍🏻 You might find that if you regulate your battery supply, and (optionally) add an iFi DC iPurifier or two, it will sound even better on the clean supply. 😀

 

Interesting, what were the batteries and regulators used and how much extra did the iFi bring? Did you also try Allo battery pack direct with LG LiPO4 batteries?

 

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3 hours ago, Heckyman said:

 

Interesting, what were the batteries and regulators used and how much extra did the iFi bring? Did you also try Allo battery pack direct with LG LiPO4 batteries?

 

The ifi device is designed to improve cheap switch mode power supplies. Installing one between a simple battery and the Allo makes no sense to me. Why add opamps and other stuff to the equation? 

One of the folks who designs for Allo posts regularly on another forum...if I can find it, I'll share the forum name. He would be better able to answer your question. 

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@CrushingIt it’s cdsgames on diyaudio.com, I guess he reads this too and (wisely) declines to jump in!
 

I was simply interested in the specifics of @RX8R3ROD experience, if he was comparing his regulated batteries to the Shanti, to the Allo holder plus the recommended batteries or to his own battery holder prior to adding the regulation.

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