linear regulator after pico or seperate power supply?

[Darryl R]

41 minutes ago, motberg said:

I am using one of the older HDPlex DC-ATX convertors and also one of the new 400W units, also I have a 400W HDPlex ATX PS and a Teradak 210W ATX PS.. I am not sure if I would be able to tell these apart, they all sound good and much better than a generic switching ATX supply. I am using the HDPlex DC-ATX convertors for the 20 pin ATX power input only, the mb 12V input is a separate LPS.

 

However - a friend built a DIY server/dac (something like an all in one setup but still configured in a few boxes) using a lot of LT3045's mostly double regulated to the mb, and 12V input via battery. .. We tried that in my system and I think most people would say his was substantially better. One of my setups uses the same mb (Supermicro X10SBA-L) and similar r2r dac, similar stuff but certainly not an A-B comparison.  Hearing his comparatively simple device using Volumio, you get the sense that mb and dac power regulation is perhaps a key attribute to this performance.

 

Michael, thanks for the detail.  Once I figure out how I want to supply inputs to the server, then I'll get a new LPS, configured accordingly (seems we have some good choices with realistic lead times now: Teradak, HDPlex, Reference 1).  I don't know how best to handle the 24-pin connector on the mITX mobo.  I'm wondering if running that all the way from the external HDPlex is a good way to go.

[Darryl R]

So the powering of the 24-pin connector was discussed at the beginning of this thread, but certainly, by now, someone has put together a kit for doing this:

 

http://www.tirnahifi.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2832

[Nenon]

2 hours ago, Darryl R said:

I don't know how best to handle the 24-pin connector on the mITX mobo.  I'm wondering if running that all the way from the external HDPlex is a good way to go. 

 

Depends on your budget. HDPlex is not bad, but there are better options (usually more expensive too).

 

18 minutes ago, Darryl R said:

So the powering of the 24-pin connector was discussed at the beginning of this thread, but certainly, by now, someone has put together a kit for doing thi

 

If you can solder, here are the parts you need:

- Wire of your choice

- Connector housing 20 PIN ATX - Molex part # 39-01-2200

- Connector housing 4 PIN - Molex part # 39-01-2040

- Connector contact - Molex part # 44476-1112

 

Depending on your motherboard you may need a 24 PIN ATX (instead of 20) connector or an 8 PIN (instead of 4).

[Gavin1977]

On 8/25/2018 at 6:57 PM, the_doc735 said:

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story9&reid=207

PicoPSU 120-WI-25 works with 19V input using the FSP power brick. "Ripple suppression: Once again, there's no ripple on the +3.3V and +5V, but also the +12V is cleaned up significantly. Score here is a 10/10."  ~ Wow! Two jonnyGURU Recommended's in one day! Once again, the FSP power brick shows that it's the best power brick... and I like what the PicoPSU 120-WI-25 can do with it.

I know this is a bit of an old thread - but I used to have exactly this setup.  Not a patch on my Paul Hynes SR7 that I now own (to be fair much more expensive).  Pico+ FSP powerbrick sounded ok, but completely laking in dynamics.  Basic Corsair ATX or SFX PSU sounded much better - probably because it has much better transient response than a power brick. Don't bother with cheapo power bricks they're not worth the time.

[alecm]

On 8/20/2018 at 10:23 AM, the_doc735 said:

Teddy193 - 19V 3.5A 66.5W (12 nanovolt ripple - lowest on the planet!)

 

are you serious??