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Lush^2 - Share your configuration experiences


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Thanks Peter for your info. All understood and all is well. Quite understandably, if you took into consideration all the jumper settings on top of wire settings we would all be discussing set up for the next ten years on all the variables.

My latest 'shipped settings' received - single vertical jumper on the inside and double to the outside - gives very good treble (sharpness) with good clear Bass.

The 'original' long term setting - double jumper to the inside and single vertical jumper to the outside gives slightly less pronounced treble (sharpness) but more deeper Bass. Brilliant for late night low volume listening.

Both settings are good.... Just depends on what your 'ears' like 😁.

Ones frame of mind and multiple levels of tiredness play a great deal on what you hear.

I'm looking forward to burning in, trying different settings and finally, the addition of an Innuos Phoenix later down the line once I've settled with the sound character in use.

Looking forward to reading everybody's encounters and suggestions on this wonderful Audiophile USB Cable. 

Amplifier: Feliks Envy (Performance Ed), Primaluna EVO 400 Integrated with Brimar CV4003, Singxer SA-1, Cayin C9 Portable Amp. DAC: Chord DAVE, Chord MScaler, LampizatOr Amber 3 DAP: Fiio M17, Fiio M11 Plus Ltd SS, DX 300 MAX SS, DX 300 MAX Ti, Cayin N6ii + A02 Line out + E02 Source: Silent Angel M1T, Forrester LPS, N8 Network Switch, InnuOs Zenith MK3, Pioneer PD-S904 Analogue: Rega Planar 2 > Rega Fono MM MK3, Pioneer CT-W806DR,

Cables: Wave Storm Reference, Phasure Lush ^2, AQ Coffee, AQ Ruby, Cable Talk 2, QED Silver Anniversary Speakers: Klipsch Forte III.

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14 hours ago, ConcreteCow said:

My latest 'shipped settings' received - single vertical jumper on the inside and double to the outside - gives very good treble (sharpness) with good clear Bass

 

To my ears and gear this give the best balance overall.

 

14 hours ago, ConcreteCow said:

The 'original' long term setting - double jumper to the inside and single vertical jumper to the outside gives slightly less pronounced treble (sharpness) but more deeper Bass. Brilliant for late night low volume listening.

 

With this one I get some non pleasant upper midrange / lower treble noise, similar to some kind of digititis on the beginning of the digital music playback era.

 

But you need more burn in !

 

Sheers !

 

Roch

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  • 1 month later...

Dear people,

 

Recently I was asked by a (new) customer whether I'd had any nice alternative to the shipped configuration. I gave him this, including the shown text (which I registered almost two years ago for myself):

 

A: B-W & Y-R, B: B-W
This showed a super sound.
It completely changes the sound from a somewhat congested (too white) highs to ever so lasting colored cymbals. Btw, this is what I had in mind with it for a change (I found the highs too profound).
What came with it is a super fluid/liquid bass which sings and plays music. I actually never experienced the bass like that.

 

Mind you, this was my own only second configuration I tried back at the time (the Lush^2 being new) and most probably because I kept on trying new interesting configs, I never went back to this one.

But as it appears now, I should have !

 

On a side note, for well over a year I have been listening to the "shipped" configuration, we all by now know. So by now I am rather familiar with how this sounds, as do most of you (using that shipped config "with consensus"). Also, my Lush^2 should be more than well broken in, might that matter in the first place.

So my (personal) judgment relative to the "shipped" config:

 

- What the description above does not mention, is the actually tonnes of more bass this exhibits. That it also is a "good" bass is a nice pro and that it is so nicely fluid, remains. This is hard to describe in more detail. I mean, fluid ? what fluid. Ever back I worked with someone on a loudspeaker filter, but without the filter and natural roll off, he describe the sound as "warm piss". Well, it is something like this ...

 

- Along with it comes a punch which maybe too much lacks in the "shipped" config. Notice that you'd only recognize this after the change (read: it was OK already, but it could be quite better, as it appears).

 

- What I (internally) described from later tried configs, counts for for this config too: a degree of electrification. Though I'd like to literally call it like that, it is described more recognizable as "vibrant". However, vibrant is more a negative (in my book at least), while this is all about sheer energy. It gives a snare drum a reality ... unheard (these ears). It shows artists jumping up and down on the stage. It could even make Charlie Watts come alive.

 

- A bit of similar to the previous, is that this is so much more lively (full of life) compared to the "shipped" configuration, that the shipping configuration will sound dead in comparison, would I go back.

 

- You may not know the subject, but when reproduction is (so to speak) "too dead", a longer track is a little boring because of it. This is because of a lack of variation which inherently *is* there, but does not want to show sufficiently. Hence:

in the end there is much more detail because of the "singing" of the higher frequencies. So notice my "somewhat congested (too white)" remark in the lead-in of this post and envision the contrary. It is the now not-congested which does this trick. More open (and more vibrant, etc.).

There is just much more going on.

 

- Per definition you will not recognize your tunes from before; it simply sounds too different. This is a virtue in itself because you can re-listen all your goodies and be amazed.

 

... And it is for free, because you already have the cable ...

 

Do not hesitate to disagree or share your own additional findings.

Also try to qualify how important this change is, relative to e.g. changing the power amp - it is quite a similar drastic change (watch my words), us thinking that only electronics could imply such a change (listen and you will understand). But it is just a cable ... (and a digital one on top of it, which should not show any differences at all, right ? 😉)

 

Peter

Lush^3-e      Lush^2      Blaxius^2.5      Ethernet^3     HDMI^2     XLR^2

XXHighEnd (developer)

Phasure NOS1 24/768 Async USB DAC (manufacturer)

Phasure Mach III Audio PC with Linear PSU (manufacturer)

Orelino & Orelo MKII Speakers (designer/supplier)

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/5/2020 at 7:05 AM, PeterSt said:

Dear people,

 

Recently I was asked by a (new) customer whether I'd had any nice alternative to the shipped configuration. I gave him this, including the shown text (which I registered almost two years ago for myself):

 

A: B-W & Y-R, B: B-W
This showed a super sound.
It completely changes the sound from a somewhat congested (too white) highs to ever so lasting colored cymbals. Btw, this is what I had in mind with it for a change (I found the highs too profound).
What came with it is a super fluid/liquid bass which sings and plays music. I actually never experienced the bass like that.

 

 

Hi Peter - can you post pictures?

 

MAIN: Sonore Optical Module Deluxe/Farad Super 3 (7v) > Uptone EtherRegen/Farad Super 3(9v)/AfterDark Emperor Signature/Farad Super 3 (12v) > Innuos Zenith MKII SE (ER A) > ER (B) > Meitner MA-3 DAC > Ayre K-5xe MP Preamplifier > Ayre VX-5 Twenty Amplifier  > Vandersteen Quatro Woods

POWER: AQ Niagara 5000 > AQ (Hurricane)/Triode Wire Labs/Shunyata Python/Nordost Blue Heaven/Audience AU24 SE/Audio Sensibilities Sig Silver

CABLING: Silversmith Audio Fidelium Speaker/Sablon Pantela Reserva 2020 Lan/Ghent JSSG360 Cat 6/AQ Earth & Pegasus/Aurelis Deuland 75ohm

ISOLATION: Stillpoints/Symposium/IsoAcoustics/Herbie's/PS Audio Powerbase

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Thank you @robocop  look forward to trying it

MAIN: Sonore Optical Module Deluxe/Farad Super 3 (7v) > Uptone EtherRegen/Farad Super 3(9v)/AfterDark Emperor Signature/Farad Super 3 (12v) > Innuos Zenith MKII SE (ER A) > ER (B) > Meitner MA-3 DAC > Ayre K-5xe MP Preamplifier > Ayre VX-5 Twenty Amplifier  > Vandersteen Quatro Woods

POWER: AQ Niagara 5000 > AQ (Hurricane)/Triode Wire Labs/Shunyata Python/Nordost Blue Heaven/Audience AU24 SE/Audio Sensibilities Sig Silver

CABLING: Silversmith Audio Fidelium Speaker/Sablon Pantela Reserva 2020 Lan/Ghent JSSG360 Cat 6/AQ Earth & Pegasus/Aurelis Deuland 75ohm

ISOLATION: Stillpoints/Symposium/IsoAcoustics/Herbie's/PS Audio Powerbase

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  • 1 month later...

All,

 

The A: B-W & Y-R, B: B-W I suggested on August 5, lasted all right for 2-3 weeks, but at second 1 my wife already complained about too much of highs. I tweaked and tweaked with other means but after two weeks I had to give up. That sound made me crazy (too wild or something and it couldn't be tweaked out).

 

After that I start to listen to A: B-Y & W-R, B: B-Y & W-R again, actually because someone asked me to ship his Lush^2 like that. Well, that one I really still like.

What occurs from it is the long lasting cymbals that keeps on keeping your attention, a nice natural sound and also a quite small depth (always close to the plane of the speakers). So yes, the depth keeps on occurring, but each and every time it gave me the idea that this was "natural" as such.

My original description of this as per Sept 1, 2018:

 

Best so far. Also see Phasure post on Sept. 2, 2018.
Very general key description : a lot of low highs.

 

image.png.82d9d51baac03cbdb3205aa58b936cd3.png

 

 

Peter

 

Lush^3-e      Lush^2      Blaxius^2.5      Ethernet^3     HDMI^2     XLR^2

XXHighEnd (developer)

Phasure NOS1 24/768 Async USB DAC (manufacturer)

Phasure Mach III Audio PC with Linear PSU (manufacturer)

Orelino & Orelo MKII Speakers (designer/supplier)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Newbie to this topic.  Just received my Holy Water from Lush (^2), and it's a miracle!  I can hear again!!   It completely cured my audio fatigue, which was previously so painful that I nearly had to give up listening to certain types of music altogether.  A debt of gratitude to (saint?) Peter!

 

So idiot that I am and hoping for more than my fair share of musical enjoyment, I decided to tinker around and try the PNF settings.  Although I let it burn in for 18 hrs before listening, I could tell it was way too bright for my ears.  In setting the cable back to what I hope was the default configuration I noticed that the black plastic (shorting?) tabs had (voltage?) numbers written on them (23, 25, 27).  Does this mean that they're not interchangeable and that there's a sound difference depending which one is used?   Also, when sliding them on a singe pin as opposed to using them for two pins, does it matter which direction (left or right) they face or whether the top or bottom slot is used over the pin?  Hence, I don't know if I restored the default configuration properly, but sure sounds great whatever I did.   

 

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Hi there DrD,

 

I hope that to others this doesn't come across as some kind of hilarious story; I can easily recognize myself what you are talking about. For me myself it sneaked in along the process of improvement of the by now various Lush cables and of course their configurations, but as I have said elsewhere: I now seem to have troubles in hearing what's being said on the TV and the "stereo" is now so much the example of how voices etc. should sound.

 

9 hours ago, DrDetroit said:

I noticed that the black plastic (shorting?) tabs had (voltage?) numbers written on them (23, 25, 27).

 

We just had a good laugh over this, over here. I did not know this, so I looked at the two I have laying around from my own Lush(^3) and ... what !? the one has 25 imprinted and the other 30. So I asked the person who by now had 1000s of these put in bags and assembled (I only purchase them - haha) and the answer was "Oh yeah, I know. I have no clue. In the same bag purchased various numbers are written on them".

I suppose the person who finds #1 can win a prize ! 🤑

 

9 hours ago, DrDetroit said:

Also, when sliding them on a singe pin as opposed to using them for two pins, does it matter which direction (left or right) they face or whether the top or bottom slot is used over the pin?

 

I am afraid that this matters, yes. BUT personal me did not get involved with this; it is others who (found out and) did, but it is too way out to incorporate that as well. Btw, I suppose that it won't make a difference in which direction you put them, but your mentioned top or bottom, will.

By nature we will put the bridge on the top. But mind you please, this is no "production rule" so they can just be there randomly. ... ... Btw, now I think of it, for years now we provide them with literal tabs on them, so they can't even be put upside down. Maybe you have them without tabs ? ... Anyway, I wouldn't be bothered by that. There's too many combinations already.

Btw, chances are fair that I misinterpreted you on the latter subject (top or bottom slot).

 

Peter

Lush^3-e      Lush^2      Blaxius^2.5      Ethernet^3     HDMI^2     XLR^2

XXHighEnd (developer)

Phasure NOS1 24/768 Async USB DAC (manufacturer)

Phasure Mach III Audio PC with Linear PSU (manufacturer)

Orelino & Orelo MKII Speakers (designer/supplier)

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52 minutes ago, PeterSt said:

 

 

I am afraid that this matters, yes. BUT personal me did not get involved with this; it is others who (found out and) did, but it is too way out to incorporate that as well. Btw, I suppose that it won't make a difference in which direction you put them, but your mentioned top or bottom, will.

By nature we will put the bridge on the top.

 

 

Peter, I don't quite under the "bridge" part. 

How about this?  The side of the tab with the mysterious numbers printed on it, does that side face up (toward me) or face down so that the numbers are hidden? 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Greetings

 

I have the Lush 2 and its 2 meters. I adore it but I have a problem that I long time ignored until it became a bit of an issue, whenever I connect the lush 2 to my dac ( whether it hugo tt2 or auris euterpe ) the slightest movement of my laptop causes the dac to disconnect from my laptop and i have to reach out to the back of the dack and press at the usb cable until the windows recognizes it again. This has really taken it toll on me, any solution to this. 

 

This only happens with the Lush 2 cable, while other cables work fine

 

I am using a Asus zephyrus laptop, and I tried all my usb ports and all have the same issue. I tried uninstalling the driver and reinstalling and still the same. I went into windows 10 setting to prevent power from disconnecting usb devices and still the same

 

I am really not know what to do anymore.

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52 minutes ago, hykbooks said:

i have to reach out to the back of the dack and press at the usb cable until the windows recognizes it again. This has really taken it toll on me, any solution to this. 

 

Yes, that is frustrating of course.

 

It seems logical that the connector suffers a little from wear.

Can't you solve it by fixing the cable close to the DAC, somehow ? (I mean something like putting a brick on it so it can't move easily).

Similarly you could but a toothpick (the small tip of it) or something like that between the outside of the connector and the chassis-connector) in the DAC. Whether on top, bottom or either of the side, is to be tried.

 

What I would do as a first is forcing the cable itself side-, up-, or down-ways, so it "squeezes" in the DAC-connector.

 

I sure hope that you will be able to solve it !

Peter

Lush^3-e      Lush^2      Blaxius^2.5      Ethernet^3     HDMI^2     XLR^2

XXHighEnd (developer)

Phasure NOS1 24/768 Async USB DAC (manufacturer)

Phasure Mach III Audio PC with Linear PSU (manufacturer)

Orelino & Orelo MKII Speakers (designer/supplier)

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48 minutes ago, PeterSt said:

 

Yes, that is frustrating of course.

 

It seems logical that the connector suffers a little from wear.

Can't you solve it by fixing the cable close to the DAC, somehow ? (I mean something like putting a brick on it so it can't move easily).

Similarly you could but a toothpick (the small tip of it) or something like that between the outside of the connector and the chassis-connector) in the DAC. Whether on top, bottom or either of the side, is to be tried.

 

What I would do as a first is forcing the cable itself side-, up-, or down-ways, so it "squeezes" in the DAC-connector.

 

I sure hope that you will be able to solve it !

Peter

Hi Peter, I bought straight from your store and i adore the cable, but from day one it was like that, I have to press on the yellow cable part that  is covered with the black plastic where those colored wires are covered, at the end that goes into the usb input

 

 

Inked20201207_005958_HDR_LI.jpg

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10 hours ago, hykbooks said:

but from day one it was like that

 

In that case the receptor (DAC's inpout connector) has to be worn out. This happens very easily like this (but it is just a long shot !!):
You buy (or lend) a "decent" expensive cable; what a manufacturer may do is provide a larger connector (B side) so it sits nicely tight. Yes, but meanwhile a normal standard cable is too loose because of that. Again, it is a long shot.

 

What I already wanted to say yesterday is that by all means we are happy to put on a new B connector, for free. We can even go as far as applying the same as what I just told: make it somewhat larger (this is less than 0.1mm stuff). But the problem with this is the shipping costs. So you'd need to send it ($) and we need to return it to you ($$) which latter would even be 10 or so more than what we normally charge (because UPS is more expensive than what we charge).

... So that's why the advice to (try to) solve it differently. If that works you would be helped ...

 

Btw, there is no reason that pressing on the blue circled part would really do something internally, as the connections are more downstream (literally in the connector itself). But of course it would imply a small movement downward of the connector in the socket (is my thinking). Anyway, hanging a small weight on that position of the blue circle does not help ?

 

Just let me know what you like best. I only want to let it work for you. Really.

Best regards,

Peter

 

Lush^3-e      Lush^2      Blaxius^2.5      Ethernet^3     HDMI^2     XLR^2

XXHighEnd (developer)

Phasure NOS1 24/768 Async USB DAC (manufacturer)

Phasure Mach III Audio PC with Linear PSU (manufacturer)

Orelino & Orelo MKII Speakers (designer/supplier)

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On 12/7/2020 at 11:57 AM, PeterSt said:

 

In that case the receptor (DAC's inpout connector) has to be worn out. This happens very easily like this (but it is just a long shot !!):
You buy (or lend) a "decent" expensive cable; what a manufacturer may do is provide a larger connector (B side) so it sits nicely tight. Yes, but meanwhile a normal standard cable is too loose because of that. Again, it is a long shot.

 

What I already wanted to say yesterday is that by all means we are happy to put on a new B connector, for free. We can even go as far as applying the same as what I just told: make it somewhat larger (this is less than 0.1mm stuff). But the problem with this is the shipping costs. So you'd need to send it ($) and we need to return it to you ($$) which latter would even be 10 or so more than what we normally charge (because UPS is more expensive than what we charge).

... So that's why the advice to (try to) solve it differently. If that works you would be helped ...

 

Btw, there is no reason that pressing on the blue circled part would really do something internally, as the connections are more downstream (literally in the connector itself). But of course it would imply a small movement downward of the connector in the socket (is my thinking). Anyway, hanging a small weight on that position of the blue circle does not help ?

 

Just let me know what you like best. I only want to let it work for you. Really.

Best regards,

Peter

 

Thanks Peter, I will think about what to do as definitely this is the best ever usb cable sound wise. When I wiggle the usb connector itself in the socket nothing happens, it only gets recognized when I press squeeze that area. I will take my usb cable to a friend of mine who has other than the 2 dacs I have to test. But it has a to wait a bit due to covid 19 movement difficulties

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Would your problem be solved if I send you a Lush^3 with 25% off ?

(this will only apply to you and not for 500 others who may detect a problem at pressing the cable - haha)

Please say Yes only if you considered the Lush^3 already (read: I am not trying to talk you into it).

At least you would have that in a couple of days (maybe even this week).

If you want this, just order it, and I will return the 25% (over the cable) instantly.

Lush^3-e      Lush^2      Blaxius^2.5      Ethernet^3     HDMI^2     XLR^2

XXHighEnd (developer)

Phasure NOS1 24/768 Async USB DAC (manufacturer)

Phasure Mach III Audio PC with Linear PSU (manufacturer)

Orelino & Orelo MKII Speakers (designer/supplier)

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7 minutes ago, PeterSt said:

Would your problem be solved if I send you a Lush^3 with 25% off ?

(this will only apply to you and not for 500 others who may detect a problem at pressing the cable - haha)

Please say Yes only if you considered the Lush^3 already (read: I am not trying to talk you into it).

At least you would have that in a couple of days (maybe even this week).

If you want this, just order it, and I will return the 25% (over the cable) instantly.

wow, I did not see a lush 3 coming, of course I will humbly and gratefully accept. I will send you a private message so i order the 2 meters one. I am so so thankful, you have no idea how much I love the lush 2 so the chance to get lush 3 is just wow

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...
1 hour ago, BCRich said:

Hoping someone can help. I have managed to lose the jumper clips to my Lush2 USB Cable. Anyone know where I can order replacements from hopefully in the USA. I don’t want to bother PeterSt with this.

Thanks…..Mike

I purchased mine from Digikey, their part number is 732-13618-ND, the cost is quite high, 10 of them will set you back $2.85 plus shipping...🌝🌝

 

Kevin

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