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disaster with my pink faun i2s bridge card!


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disaster with my pink faun i2s bridge card!!!!!!!

this capacitor broke off and I don't know what to order!

Würth Elektronik WE 221 016 ASLL-D35. diameter approx. 6mm, length approx. 7-8mm.

is there a way to find out the voltage and 'Uf'? ...etc.

 

I have sent an email to 'PF' anyway but not sure if I'd get a reply?
Wurth & Mouser (UK) don't know what part it is by the number on the top!

its the cap directly behind the molex power socket. It was already bent over and lose when I received it, secondhand from america. Pretty insecure in a jiffy bag! I accidentally caught it with my finger or thumb when pushing the molex plug firmly into the socket and it didn't take very much for it to fall completely off the card/ board.

thanx in advance!

 

 

DSCN2755.JPG

1844042-pink-faun-i2s-bridge-pcie-card (b).jpg

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That's a WCAP aluminium electrolytic ASLL series most probably 16V. you could try putting a meter across one of them to measure the capacitance. Am suprised Wurther can't tell you the value. Could be 220uf judging by the size.

Its also a surface mount (reflow soldered) component although you could be able to get it back on with care. If you don't want to send it back for repair there's no harm in replacing it for another aluminum cap with the same capacitance.

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It says 220 μF right there on the can. Here's the datasheet: https://katalog.we-online.com/pbs/datasheet/865060345007.pdf

 

It might be tricky to solder the SMD part with a normal iron. I would suggest instead getting a through-hole part and soldering the leads to the pads on the PCB. Bend and cut the leads such that the cap ends up lying on its side in the empty space next the pads.

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19 hours ago, LTG2010 said:

That's a WCAP aluminium electrolytic ASLL series most probably 16V. you could try putting a meter across one of them to measure the capacitance. Am suprised Wurther can't tell you the value. Could be 220uf judging by the size.

Its also a surface mount (reflow soldered) component although you could be able to get it back on with care. If you don't want to send it back for repair there's no harm in replacing it for another aluminum cap with the same capacitance.

thank you so much. 

do I need capacitance on my multi meter? Mines got volts/amps/ ohms/ continuity & a round thing to put transistors in.

I think I spoke the wurths receptionist with a catalogue on a laptop, NOT an actual electronic engineer, plus a general on-line chat person without much knowledge of the codes! That would explain that!!

I do have the heat gun on my soldering station with different size and shape nozzles. I think they are for reflow? But yes I could use a through hole version instead and attach the legs to the pads.

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19 hours ago, mansr said:

It says 220 μF right there on the can. Here's the datasheet: https://katalog.we-online.com/pbs/datasheet/865060345007.pdf

 

It might be tricky to solder the SMD part with a normal iron. I would suggest instead getting a through-hole part and soldering the leads to the pads on the PCB. Bend and cut the leads such that the cap ends up lying on its side in the empty space next the pads.

thank you so much for the PDF.

I do have the heat gun on my soldering station with different size and shape nozzles. I think they are for reflow? But yes I could use a through hole version instead and attach the legs to the pads.

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Yes some multimeters have capacitance. You could go back to Wurth now that we've narrowed down the possibilities and as @ mansr rightly has said its written (221) on the can. Just to double check the top number corresponds to capacitance. I was originally a bit cautious as sometimes they don't.

Also they are cheap enough to try both types smd and and through the hole.

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8 minutes ago, the_doc735 said:

thank you so much for the PDF.

I do have the heat gun on my soldering station with different size and shape nozzles. I think they are for reflow? But yes I could use a through hole version instead and attach the legs to the pads.

Oh, I didn't expect you'd have a hot air station. Most people don't. Even then, it can be tricky to get it right when crowded by other components. Since there's a bit of empty space next to that capacitor, my suggestion is probably easier.

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6 minutes ago, LTG2010 said:

You could go back to Wurth now that we've narrowed down the possibilities and as @ mansr rightly has said its written (221) on the can. Just to double check the top number corresponds to capacitance. I was originally a bit cautious as sometimes they don't.

According to the datasheet, the first line is the capacitance, the second voltage rating, and the third manufacturing date code. Of the possible values, 221 could only signify 220 μF (22 x 10).

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32 minutes ago, LTG2010 said:

Yes some multimeters have capacitance. You could go back to Wurth now that we've narrowed down the possibilities and as @ mansr rightly has said its written (221) on the can. Just to double check the top number corresponds to capacitance. I was originally a bit cautious as sometimes they don't.

Also they are cheap enough to try both types smd and and through the hole.

THanks for confirmation, invaluable help!

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31 minutes ago, mansr said:

Oh, I didn't expect you'd have a hot air station. Most people don't. Even then, it can be tricky to get it right when crowded by other components. Since there's a bit of empty space next to that capacitor, my suggestion is probably easier.

Yes, I think you are right about that (LOL)!

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21 minutes ago, mansr said:

According to the datasheet, the first line is the capacitance, the second voltage rating, and the third manufacturing date code. Of the possible values, 221 could only signify 220 μF (22 x 10).

that's brilliant, many thanks again!

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here we see the board location where the cap has broken off. It is clear, that it is indeed 16v, and one the the legs of the cap is still attached to the pad. There's a hole that looks like a 'through-hole' for soldering, but it's a bit big?

 

DSCN2758a.thumb.jpg.5526282851d4b5e8007241e3825249f1.jpg

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1 hour ago, the_doc735 said:

here we see the board location where the cap has broken off. It is clear, that it is indeed 16v, and one the the legs of the cap is still attached to the pad. There's a hole that looks like a 'through-hole' for soldering, but it's a bit big?

 

DSCN2758a.thumb.jpg.5526282851d4b5e8007241e3825249f1.jpg

Start by removing the remains of the broken cap. That hole in the pad is unusual. Normally, holes (vias) in SMD pads are avoided since they have a tendency to suck solder away from where you want it. If both pads have a hole through the board, I'd suggest using them to mount a through-hole capacitor if you can find one that fits. 

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17 hours ago, mansr said:

Start by removing the remains of the broken cap. That hole in the pad is unusual. Normally, holes (vias) in SMD pads are avoided since they have a tendency to suck solder away from where you want it. If both pads have a hole through the board, I'd suggest using them to mount a through-hole capacitor if you can find one that fits. 

...no solder pad on the other side of the PCB. No hole on the anode either.

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22 hours ago, mansr said:

Start by removing the remains of the broken cap. That hole in the pad is unusual. Normally, holes (vias) in SMD pads are avoided since they have a tendency to suck solder away from where you want it. If both pads have a hole through the board, I'd suggest using them to mount a through-hole capacitor if you can find one that fits. 

...no solder pad on the other side of the PCB. No hole on the anode either.

Pink faun are sending me a replacement part B.T.W.! idea.gif

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....finally got my pink faun capacitor(s). They sent 4 free of charge with free postage - good guys! 
Got 'cold feet' about reflow gun and just went traditional with a very very fine tip on the 'iron'. Cleaned up the pads with wick and tinned them and the legs of the new cap. Then placed the cap. in the demarcated area, went slightly squiffy by about half a millimeter! Never the less - made good solid contact and silver solder connection between the PCB & cap. Now sounds as good as before.

 

?

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