ISO Regen performance Improvement Cheap!

[Superdad]

Or from that cheesy song from the band America"

"Oz never did give nothing to the tin man..."

[mansr]

Or Mick Jagger: "I can't get no satisfaction."

[Cornan]

 

 

[Ralf11]

Back to point to point wire [wrapped] tube amps!

[Ralf11]

2 hours ago, jabbr said:

Ah but do you get better SQ with quad or hex crimp? or audiophile decacrimp? Pure silver boots?

 

Boots of Spanish Leather

[Ralf11]

Don't forget, when you reconnect something you are often breaking a corrosion barrier.

 

That can explain a lot of the changes in SQ from switching cables, or clipping off tinned ends, etc. etc.

 

 

I like to flood my stereo equipment with Argon to 'solve' the corrosion problem.

 

 

Also, in space no one can hear your stereo scream!

(just for you marce)

[look&listen]

Not sure why waste time with knowledge in dueling geek battle & troll mob

 

 

Creep of annealed and cold-drawn high-purity copper - NIST Page

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)

“The practice of tinning stranded wires to facilitate the process of connecting the wire to a screw terminal, though having been prevalent and considered standard practice for quite a while, has been discouraged by professional electricians,[25] owing to the fact that the solder is likely to creep under the pressure excerted on the tinned wire end by the screw of the terminal, causing the joint to loose tension and hence create a loose contact over time. The accepted practice when connecting stranded wire to a screw terminal is to use a wire ferrule on the end of the wire.”

1st abandon of serious posters, now much mockery, say

“Thread is dead, Fred!” ?

 

Over&Out

[Cornan]

I totally agree with @Abtr in this matter. Tinned wires and screw terminals are a no go. However, it seems like screw terminals do like solid wires rather than stranded wires. Maybe because they get a firmer grip around the cable and no strands get carried away? Might be a reason why Kemet legs is better than the stranded wire. Just a guess! ?

 

Also, there are very few people around CA that I trust as much as @Abtr. 

[Ralf11]

http://products.mill-max.com/pogo-pins/?keyword=electrical spring contacts&creative=265921212857&gclid=CjwKCAjwmufZBRBJEiwAPJ3Lpk9zNXCdoo--tKCBH13lxsCUXZiIgOsf2UQIrBoGMLBYblt9bcxKoBoCz_wQAvD_BwE

[Cornan]

3 hours ago, rah50 said:

Back to how the Kemets sound!

 

I reported Friday that my first Kemets added to the LT3045's in my HDplex>Supra Cat8>LT3045s>microRendu were a VERY NICE!

 

2nd pair added to my LPS1.2>Supra Cat8>ultraDigital were a WOW!

 

3rd pair added to my LPS1>Supra Cat8> ISO Regen were icing on the cake, removing the last smidgen of anything you could consider hard or unwanted.

 

This has been the best $20 ever spent on my system. Just a huge improvement in presence, weight, low end detail  especially and dynamics.

 

Big shout out to Cornan! THANKS!

 

Next will maybe replacing the Supra cat8 with Gotham Ultra Pro, maybe doubled?

 

Also no soldering, just bending the Kemet's leads 90 degrees and inserting them into the screw-on's along with the Cat8 wire and tightening down. 

 

Awesome rah50! I am so so happy you followed it through. The magic happens when you continue the quest and add more of the Kemet's in other paths. It is almost the same pattern as when you isolate grounds. One spot means nothing compared to the full monty! ?

[Cornan]

4 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

http://products.mill-max.com/pogo-pins/?keyword=electrical spring contacts&creative=265921212857&gclid=CjwKCAjwmufZBRBJEiwAPJ3Lpk9zNXCdoo--tKCBH13lxsCUXZiIgOsf2UQIrBoGMLBYblt9bcxKoBoCz_wQAvD_BwE

 

This is AC, not DC. How can this help?

[Cornan]

One more thing that I will tell you’all. Put the highest current LT3045 closest to the powered device. If you have series LT3045 you can use a 0.5A version first and highest possible current closest to the device. In some spots a 0.5- 1A LT3045 device followed by a 5A LT3045 surpass two 5A in series. Don’t ask me why, but it does IRL. ?

[Abtr]

3 hours ago, charlesphoto said:

“Aye, ‘tis nobler in the sound to tin or not to tin, or to suffer the slings and arrows of the internet forums, that is the question.”

You sound as if you have a personal problem with not tinning wire strands. Is it because you now must redo multiple DC cables (and maybe other connections) that you did with screw terminals and tinned strands?

[Ralf11]

1 hour ago, Cornan said:

 

This is AC, not DC. How can this help?

 

was that a joke?

[Cornan]

5 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

 

was that a joke?

 

 I thought you was! How those connections is possible to implement to DC beats me!

[sandyk]

3 hours ago, Ralf11 said:

Don't forget, when you reconnect something you are often breaking a corrosion barrier.

 

That can explain a lot of the changes in SQ from switching cables, or clipping off tinned ends, etc. etc.

 

  +1

 

 BTW, when reinserting thicker wires into terminal blocks, it may sometimes be difficult to get the wire back in again.

 A quick answer to this problem is to gently insert the probe of a DMM lead part way into the terminal block to push the connecting strip back up again.

 

[sandyk]

3 hours ago, Cornan said:

One more thing that I will tell you’all. Put the highest current LT3045 closest to the powered device. If you have series LT3045 you can use a 0.5A version first and highest possible current closest to the device. In some spots a 0.5- 1A LT3045 device followed by a 5A LT3045 surpass two 5A in series. Don’t ask me why, but it does IRL. ?

 

The higher current device will normally have a lower output impedance.

[charlesphoto]

1 hour ago, Abtr said:

You sound as if you have a personal problem with not tinning wire strands. Is it because you now must redo multiple DC cables (and maybe other connections) that you did with screw terminals and tinned strands?

 

I don’t. And I think you’re actually correct. But the way you come across with it, and the debate in general, is worth a bit of a wind up imo. Sorry if I’ve offended. 

[fas42]

3 hours ago, Cornan said:

I totally agree with @Abtr?@Abtr in this matter. Tinned wires and screw terminals are a no go. However, it seems like screw terminals do like solid wires rather than stranded wires. Maybe because they get a firmer grip around the cable and no strands get carried away? Might be a reason why Kemet legs is better than the stranded wire. Just a guess!

 

Yes. In any situation in audio solid, single core wire will always be better than stranded - if you absolutely can't hardwire for some reason, forget about stranded.

[sandyk]

4 hours ago, look&listen said:

Not sure why waste time with knowledge in dueling geek battle & troll mob

 

 

Creep of annealed and cold-drawn high-purity copper - NIST Page

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)

“The practice of tinning stranded wires to facilitate the process of connecting the wire to a screw terminal, though having been prevalent and considered standard practice for quite a while, has been discouraged by professional electricians,[25] owing to the fact that the solder is likely to creep under the pressure excerted on the tinned wire end by the screw of the terminal, causing the joint to loose tension and hence create a loose contact over time. The accepted practice when connecting stranded wire to a screw terminal is to use a wire ferrule on the end of the wire.”

1st abandon of serious posters, now much mockery, say

“Thread is dead, Fred!” ?

 

Over&Out

 

 Nobody here is denying this !!!

 

abtr and myself (and others) are at odds with abtr because he is talking about a simple insertion of a lead into a socket, tightening of the screw, and the wire never needing to be removed again, which of course is to be preferred.

I (and others) are talking about using stranded leads where NUMEROUS  insertions and reinsertions are needed to be made with a prototype, NOT a completed design !

 Sooner or later, inveterate fiddlers like Cornan are going to come unstuck due to their numerous removals and reinsertions of stranded  leads .  

Also make sure that when you trim the leads initially that EVERY single strand of the trimmed wire is accounted for, AND removed from the chassis, because sooner or later that single loose strand lying in the bottom of the metal case may come back to bite you on the bum after you have moved around the project !

 

BTW, I first drew attention to this problem WAY back on p.37 !!!

Quote

The screws don't come loose.

It's more of a compressing /shrinkage problem over time, especially if you had first soldered the strands of wire to avoid a longer term corrosion problem. You could end up with a poor connection and need to replace the terminal block !

 

So why are several members still getting their knickers in such a knot ?

 

[sandyk]

4 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

This is AC, not DC. How can this help?

 

 Higher quality contacts can help with D.C. For example, a simple toggle switch used with DC may eventually go open circuit, whereas it will perform correctly for much longer when used with A.C. which helps to break down any corrosion on the contacts.

[fas42]

1 hour ago, sandyk said:

So why are several members still getting their knickers in such a knot ?

 

 

Perhaps because they have trouble with the concept of Subtracting Badness from a rig, for optimising sound - everything they don't think is important, isn't - because, well, because they think it's not important ...

[Cornan]

4 hours ago, sandyk said:

 

 Higher quality contacts can help with D.C. For example, a simple toggle switch used with DC may eventually go open circuit, whereas it will perform correctly for much longer when used with A.C. which helps to break down any corrosion on the contacts.

 

I understand that high quality contacts for DC is better, but why not just apply DeoxIT (or similar) to the bare lead(s)? Those contacts are not possible to use in screw terminal blocks as far as I can tell. That’s what this subject is all about. 

[Cornan]

5 hours ago, sandyk said:

Sooner or later, inveterate fiddlers like Cornan are going to come unstuck due to their numerous removals and reinsertions of stranded  leads .  

 

This indeed happens with the quite small DC screw terminals. But there is an easy way to deal with it. Snip the end of the stranded wire off and peel the insulation off again. New peeled off stranded wire (not twisted) is always easier to insert into tiny screw terminal blocks. 

[sandyk]

1 hour ago, Cornan said:

 

I understand that high quality contacts for DC is better, but why not just apply DeoxIT (or similar) to the bare lead(s)? Those contacts are not possible to use in screw terminal blocks as far as I can tell. That’s what this subject is all about. 

 

Various types of metal combinations are used in  higher quality contacts, especially those of critical relay contacts, higher voltage types etc. Some of the replacement springsets used in Telstra Telephone Exchange Relay Sets were VERY expensive due to different requirements.

 

Avoid cheap generic Asian terminal blocks wherever possible, and stick with the higher quality Brand names from the major distributors.