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VOLT+D class D amp , dual mono 2x 60W


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3 hours ago, KingRex said:

I did some reading.  I think I saw where a linear PS did not sound as good as a switch mode.  I'm not sure if the linear was 12 volt vs 19 for the SM.  I would have to dig around more.   One thing I worry about is a big hunk of junk noisy SM PS such as found in computers is now going to be in my audio power chain.  That is all sorts of high frequency noise.  I don't know how much other think about this, but I have done as much as possible to minimize the impact of these devices in my house.  With this amp I would be looking at adding one right back in.  Kind of repeating my self, but to minimize the occurrence of ground loups I would have to power the amp in the same circuit my Preamp, DAC and Server are powered from.  Selection of this type of device kind of matters.  It should be built with filters on its front end to eliminate contamination to other equipment.  

 

I went back and read the review in DIY Audio.  He indeed used a 24Volt linear PS and did not like it.

 

I also thought hard about a computer PS and remembered that 6 or so months back I was getting my server updated.  I plugged my laptop into my audio PS to stream and immediately heard a very unpleasant bbzzzzzzz.  Very noticeable.  I unplugged the laptop PS and it went away.  I put the laptop PS in another circuit of general power in the room and I did not notice the noise so much any more.

 

If I were to use this amp, I would think I would need a dedicated PS to my rack for only amps.  It's possible to do, but I also spend a lot of time optimizing power to audio systems.  I generally bring a single circuit unless a customer wants more.  2 or more is more difficult as ground loups become an issue. 

Not all switching PS are junk. The Alitov I’m using was measured by Transition Audio to be very stable @24v. Don’t recall the noise figures, but Tom said that it was very quiet. He also said that he did not feel the need to design and build a different PS. Sounds like you had some sort of ground loop with your laptop. My absolute reference PS here might be a 24vdc glass’s mat truck battery, or 2 12v car batteries in series. Maybe I’ll try hooking this up some day—to see if linear power truly makes a difference. For now, the $20 Alitov works very well. There are other simple mods that improve this amp’s ability to be driven by more devices—or work well with long signal cables, but that’s another topic I will discuss later.

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I will try the amp  because its too affordable and I want to feel out SS.  If it works great, if not well then not much lost.  Much less than the Pass XA30.8 or XA25 I was going to get.

 

I do still have a run of EMT with 2 sets of B,W,G in it.  I will try putting the computer PS in it.  

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I bought it with their PS.  Lots of chatter on these class D style amps say they dont change much due to PS.  Only that smps are best.

They do say 19v vs 24v makes a diff.  24 being more tight in bass response.  Maybe 19 more musical.  Probably a subjective decision.

 

I will leave it stock for a while.  My First Sound Mark 3SI is being upgraded to paramount.   That means no preamp for a couple weeks.

 

After that I will have Tom strip out the attenuator.  He said he has to do some work to bring the output impedance back up.  That is why they dont sound good with an external pre.  Of course that is if I even like it.  I have a friend with awsome class D amps.  Nice, but I do like tubes.  

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Hey Chinquapin, did you put copper foil bees wax and VCaps in the signal chain of your Tutay amp.  

 

Are those caps by Tom or did you recap the amp.  Mine was built in 95.  My caps are 23 years old.  I bought the Ampsandsound Casablanca recently.  Noticeably more clean and clear.  Much more natural instrumental presentation.   Lacks some of the rich body I like.  Wondering if I dump the Tutay or rebuild.

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I typically use Mundorf Silver foil and V-caps in combination as coupling caps. Tom put a switchable electrolytic in my head phone amp. Not sure what the 1570s have for coupling . Black gates are visible on top-along with Tom's choice of caps. Probably should PM about this since it is off topic. Have had Tom remove the attemuator from both of my V+Ds. Have also replaced the wire from the board to the teminals. Amp has about 60K ohms input impedance without the pot. Easier load for most things and the amp sounds better, too. Hard to decide to what to do with tube amps with the advent of really good digital amplification. Would find it really hard to part with my 1570s though.......

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Maybe I made a mistake ordering off the Allo website.  Its doing nothing but sitting and saying the order is in process since Feb 28th.  I guess I should have found a dealer.  Although the one in Florida does not look to be the place to get individual service.  Especially on a no profit product.   I guess this is how it goes when purchasing next to nothing from a multinational corp.  I would not give myself the time of day either if I was them.   I guess I have to sit and wait..  NO stereo for Rex for 3 weeks.  

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I have had really good SS class D in my system.  It's nice but not like a good tube.  For my taste.  I had a good run with Tom's amps but want to try new things.  Thats me.

 

The Allo Volt +D is sold out.  I have no idea when I will see one.  I say that as Chicago Electric is sold out.  Allo does not publish this.   I don't know I would have given them my money if I new it was an unknown wait.   Not cool IMO to sell product you dont have without disclosing this.  I see this in the "Lighting" world and product runs sometimes take months between runs.  

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Hmmm,  web site did not say that when I looked.  However, mine shipped yesterday.  I'm excited to hear it.  Been reading about other low cost class D amps.  I gather they are good for the money.  I hope so.  All they gave to do is drive my woofers   

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No way, I just picked up my amp at the post office. It's in a box about 16 by 4 by 10. It weighs about a pound. I cracked it open right away.  The amp itself feels like ounces.  I'm pretty excited to fire it up.  It's going to be amazing if this thing sounds wonderful. Has Tom Tutay said to me, it goes against everything I've ever thought about with amplifiers

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I did a more full reply on another site.  For the money its great, but its not going to replace a nicer amp.  IMO.  My tube amp and preamp are much better.  Having said that, I would not heaitate at all to recommend this to a not so serious audiophile or someone on a budget.  Its dang fine for the money.  It does a lot very well.  It does not have many issues.  In the end, its not reaching the performance level of my Ampsandsound Casablanca.  There is a used Casablanca for $2,500.  Maybe less.   What does your budget afford, and do you want to mess with tubes.  Yet the Allo is $179 to your door.  Its also totally immune to reproducing buzzing either in the unit or through the speakers from dirty utility power.  I'm not sure how much sonic degradation this is causing.  If you want a nice SS amp and want a complete system for say $1200 or less, get this amp.

 

If anyone reading this has a Pass amp, especially a XA 30.? or XA25, please get one and let us know how it compares.  I have been tubes for so long. I had a Rega Osiris years ago.  The Allo has some of the same issues that drove me from the Rega to tubes.  The Rega was $6000 so the $179 Allo is a steal.  

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  • 1 month later...

Gents,

 

Been lurking around and have some questions regarding the Volt+D.

 

Anyone using the Capacitor Multiplier (CM)?  Improvement? 

 

Output into 8ohm?

I have 8ohm 100db horns and 8ohm 89db in the walls in my rec room and looking for a nice little amp to power them.

 

TIA,

 

PP

 

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I tried it with my 89db PAP trio 10 Voxativ.  Played fine.   Tried it with my PAP trio 15 horn.  A little to hard.  

 

Never modified the unit.   Only stock.  When I put my Ampsanssound Casablanca fronted by my First Sound preamp back in, it wasnt anything the same.  My PAP horn was much more pleasant.  Of course that is $10k, not $179.  Horns are just tough.  I would give the Allo another run with a good preamp in front of it.  Alone IMO its fantastic for a newbie audiophile with softer speakers.  Not to revealing or shall I say clinical where the Allo might get obtrusive.   Horns in my opinion fall into the clinical and requiring  very "matched "amplification. 

 

If you have a good preamp, wait for the monos.  Or send the stereo  version to Transition Audio.  

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@Chinquapin- Thanks for the info and I will wait for the monos any idea of the cost for them in $US?

 

@KinRex- I have Charney Audio Maestro horns with the Omega RS7 Driver. The Omega driver is a little on the soft side and sounds great with SS or tube. I've listened to all types of SS amps, Class A, AB, and D on them. All sounded very good with each it's own character in sound. Tube amps have been PP AB and Class A monos which are my current amps. This little amp intrigues me and at it's low price seems like a no brainer. I do have a preamp and will wait till the mono's come out to make a decision.

 

PP 

 

http://charneyaudio.com/

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Allo let the cat out of the bag about the new amp. I get the impression that it will be stereo, not monoblocks. No idea on the price. Estimated timeframe ?2-3 months?. You should buy the V+D. For horns, this should be enough power. Really considering selling my Transition Audio Design Altec 1570B monoblocks. 170 watts of triode push pull power. V+D keeps up with it. Never heard deeper or tighter or more detailed bass. You are in for a shock.  

     V+D needs to have the stepped attenuator removed to make it a better load for conventional line stages. With the 10k pot you get about 8.7k ohms as a load. Take the pot out and you get 60k ohm input impedance—an ideal load for a line stage that has high output impedance, or if you have long cables to drive. Not difficult to remove the pot.

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Most definitely. Sorry I didn’t mention that before. 24vdc is mandatory to get the full potential of this amp.  Alitov 24v 5a switching PS from Amazon is what I use. Tom at Transition Audio Design has one of these amps and this PS—said the PS is very quiet and stable—all for $20. LED lighting systems use switching PS like this.

DC0C7FB2-BA4E-4E51-BCBE-64491771023D.jpeg

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