The Paul Hynes SR4 PSU

[internethandle]

9 hours ago, Dev said:

 

 

Cool. I have ordered one on March 10th but haven't received any shipment information yet. Are you located in US ?

 

 

 

FWIW I ordered my SR4ST-12 on 02/17, and it was shipped on 04/17. I'm located in Southern California. This is about in line with current timetables for SR4's from this thread and elsewhere, with an approximate 8 week order to ship date, so I wouldn't worry much as long as you hear something by the second week of May or so. Personally, I was impressed Stephen has been able to stick to typical build times given he's essentially flying solo amid COVID-19!

[internethandle]

Received my SR4ST-12 yesterday. Excellent packaging job -- perhaps the most bubble wrap I've seen on any item I've ordered in audio!

 

Swapped out the fuse for a Synergistic Research Orange, DC cable is a Ghent Audio DC-7N16C (their UPOCC Neotech JSSG360 cable), power cable is an older Harmonic Technology Pro AC-11 I had available, some Mapleshade style cork feet under it, and a Alan Maher passive filter on top of the chassis in the transformer's approximate area.

 

Anyway, even right of out the box into my ISO Regen, wow! Insane improvement over the Linear Solution LPS-912 I was using beforehand, which I had found to sound a teeny bit better than an Uptone LPS-1. It retained all I enjoyed about the LPS-912 (nice high extension, good imaging) and added tons in dynamics, body, bass extension, and staging. 

 

Anyway, the Turbo's worth it! 

[internethandle]

1 hour ago, sahmen said:

Nice! But If I may ask : what are the specs (amperage, and blow speed) of the synergistic research orange fuse that you used to replace the stock fuse, and also, is the DC cable you're using from Ghent audio copper or silver?  Also does the SR fuse make ths SR4T sound diferent than it does with the stock fuse?

 

The SR4 and SR4T conveniently list the fuse rating needed on the sticker below each unit (which also includes the voltage setting information), the fuse rating being 1A Time Delay/Slow Blow. The DC cable is UPOCC copper (https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/dc-7n16c.html).

 

I did not compare the stock fuse to the SR Orange in the SR4T, but I have compared it to stock vs. Hifi Tuning Supreme Black vs. Synergistic Research Blue in my DAC, and found it to lend a sense of holographic staging vs. the blue, with much better imaging and much cleaner. The Blue actually sounded a bit muddy vs. the Supreme Black, and the stock just sounded flatter, one dimensional, and lifeless vs. all others. So in other words, in my DAC at least the ranking went something like SR Orange >>>> Hifi Tuning Supreme Black > SR Blue > Stock. 

[internethandle]

2 hours ago, sahmen said:

Thanks : I ordered my SR4T with the silver DC cable, but from what I have been reading on this thread, it appears more and more as if the copper might actually sound better. Since my unit is going to come with next month's batch, I still have the time to make the switch to copper... Of course, I could also purchase the copper version from Ghent audio which you have linked (Thanks), so that I'll have both options.

 

I already I have 2 SR fuses in hand, one is orange, and the other is Blue. I plan to use the Orange one for my DAC (Yggy A2), and the Blue one for the SR4T, but your experience with the Blue fuse in your DAC is giving me pause... i.e. making me wonder whether it wouldn't be a good idea to get another Orange fuse for the SR4T as well. The obvious question occurring to me in this respect is whether the tuning function of these particular fuses works for Power supply units in the same way as they do for DACs.  I am convinced that the Orange fuse would be the best to use with my Yggy A2, but I am no longer so sure whether the blue one would be ideal for the SR4T.  I may need to experiment with the blue and orange fuses with the SR4T in order to find out what difference each makes (if any), before deciding.  Thanks again for your detailed response.

 

FWIW the DAC I tried the Orange and Blue in was also a Schiit DAC (Bifrost 2), so it's possible, at least, that the Orange will also translate to good synergy with the Yggy A2. Since I don't have the Blue around any longer (returned it for the Orange), I can't tell you how well it pairs with the SR4T, unfortunately. I do think it's correct to suggest that it's difficult to say whether an experience matching a fuse to a DAC like the Bifrost 2 would translate 1 for 1 to an LPS like the SR4T. I suspect it could be a very different result, and although my ears do hear a familiar holography/euphonic-sounding presentation with the Orange in the SR4T, it's hard to say how much of that is the fuse vs. the supply itself!

 

The place I've seen the most discussion of fuses in general is over at What's Best Forum, where a lot of users have seemingly tried the gamut of audiophile fuses and many of them zeroed in on the Blue, for many months, as the best of the batch. There were only a few detractors, most of whom liked I think the Audio Magic Beeswax fuse instead (which is even more expensive!). Orange has since taken over Blue there, also, but I guess the previous consensus about the Blue might lend some credence toward it working well in the SR4T.

[internethandle]

1 hour ago, sahmen said:

This is helpful. Now regarding how the DC cable connects the SR4T to my Etherregen, will any combination of the regular straight or right-angled plugs work for the SR4T (I'm referring to those in the first group of DC cables on the Ghentaudio page you linked earlier)?

 

Oh one more question : Do you find that the directionality of these fuses matters, when being installed?

 

The SR4T uses a 4 pin XLR output, so you need to use the "Oyaide to XLR(Male-4P) (for Paul Hynes SR5/SR7)" option below those first options. The XLR plug Ghent uses is gold plated a Neutrik, which pairs nicely with the SR4T because its female XLR port is also gold plated Neutrik. For the other side of the cable either a right angle or straight Oyaide plug would be fine (although it looks like you would have to e-mail them to custom order a 4 pin XLR to right-angle plug if you wanted one - an example of a right angle plug is here), but make sure it's set to (default) "DC-2.1G" for the 2.1mm plug and not the 2.5mm Oyaide plug, since the DC ports Uptone uses accept 2.1mm plugs (as do most DC ports, IME).

 

Keep in mind with Ghent that because they are in China coronavirus has impacted their shipping severely, so they are recommending a ~$23 USD expedited shipping method, which I used. It's very quick (took about 6 days to California), but pricey. It looks to me from the picture str-1 provided that PHD's own new UPOCC DC cables are using the same Neotech UPOCC wire that Ghent is using (red insulation gives it away), however it's just twisted bare wire with no shielding like the Ghent, and the plugs are not as nice for the XLR or DC ends (they just look like generic ones, unsure of manufacture). 

[internethandle]

As for fuse direction, in my experience: yes, it matters. SR takes the position that you should try both ways and see which one you prefer. The Blue did sound better to my ears in the Bifrost 2 with the lettering going the opposite direction of current, the Orange so far I've only tried with the lettering going the the same direction as current. Other companies will say differently, however (I'm fairly certain HiFi Tuning, for instance, says to place their fuses with lettering in the same direction of current).

[internethandle]

11 hours ago, austinpop said:

Embarrassingly, I cannot get the fuse holder of the SR-4 open. I see it next to the IEC inlet, but cannot seem to open it. Even tried saying “Open Sesame.” No dice.  
 

Any hints?

 

I know what you mean! It definitely was the hardest to open of that IEC inlet style of fuse holder that I've encountered. I eventually got it with a kitchen butter knife, although I think the right size of flat head screwdriver would also work, mine were just too large. I think it was so difficult because it has an unusually beefy cradle for the fuse inside the inlet that grips the fuse pretty tight.

[internethandle]

7 hours ago, John769 said:

 Any recommendations for silver plated or silver cable from Ghent that compares well to the PH one?  Such as this:

 

https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/dc-j01.html

 

 

Thanks (SR4T incoming)

 

 

 

Yeah if there's a weakness in Ghent's lineup, it's that there's not many silver options. The cable you linked is the only one, IIRC, and I know from previous discussions here on DC cables that no one's sure who manufactures it and it just seems like regular copper for the conductors, no fancy audiophile metallurgies. It's good that it's star quad, since there is a line of thought from John Swenson that star quad geometries lower inductance (I think?) in DC applications and result in a benefit, but if I was going to get a Ghent star quad cable I'd probably go with the Gotham or the Canare OFC option. Gotham has a ridiculous amount of shielding as well as fancy copper, plus some good reviews on here. I was unable to find comparisons between the UPOCC or OFC Neotech cables from Ghent and the Gotham. I am using a Gotham between a DXP-1A5DSC and a Paul Pang V2 card, which seemed notably better than the Uptone-manufactured star quad cable. 

[internethandle]

14 minutes ago, austinpop said:

Do you have to pry outward from the little tab facing the inlet cavity? And does the holder just slide out?

 

Yes I used the tab for leverage - it looks like this once it's out -- the plastic holder that slides out keeps the fuse in place, the actual fuse contact/cradle is inside the inlet: 

 

 

It did take enough force that the holder flew out and onto the floor when I got it open, so be a bit careful (not that there's much to damage).

[internethandle]

It's unfortunate you have to contend with two fuses in one component, especially for a digital piece, but out of your control.

 

As for safety, I see no issue in using a stock fuse and a audiophile fuse together. It is true that audiophile fuses are semi-notorious for blowing, which is something that some folks try and mitigate by buying an amperage that is slightly or markedly higher than the rating for the component (so, if a 1A slow blow fuse is called for, some would order a 1.5A slow blow, or even a 2A) to give it more headroom, but in my thinking that is more dangerous in the sense that in the event of a overvoltage/short/surge the fuse may not do its original job and fail to blow resulting in component damage. If your audiophile fuse blows just because it's an audiophile fuse and blows prematurely, the only problem is you have a dead audiophile fuse, your component should be unharmed. Note that I've only heard of these issues and have never experienced them personally (and I've done quite a bit of fuse rolling at this point). Premature blowing seems more likely to happen in large amps, from the accounts I've read.

 

I think your approach re: using a stock fuse paired with a SR Orange to play with directionality is most sensible, yes. That way you can isolate the sound change for each fuse. I re-read the insert that comes with the SR Orange last night and I had it slightly wrong -- SR does not hold the position that their fuses are bidirectional -- the "correct" position is supposed to be left to right when looking at the fuse's lettering/logo. The issue arrives with determining how current flows through the fuse holder in the component -- most components have a left to right flow orientation, but some do not depending on design, so for that reason SR recommends switching the fuse direction if things seem to sound incorrect or worse than stock at first (which is pretty subjective!).

 

 

 

[internethandle]

15 hours ago, sahmen said:

Has anyone tried replacing the stock fuse on the SR4T with a Synergistic Research Orange fuse, or any other kind of audiophile aftermarket fuse? If so could you kindly report on what kind of difference it made.

 

My SR4T is powering my Etherregen, and I just got an SR Orange fuse from the ongoing promo sale which I could try on the SR4T, if the change would be worthwhile. Any helpful thoughts that are based on first-hand experiences about the performance of audiophile fuses on the SR4T would be welcome.

 

By the way Stephen from Paul Hynes LTD mentioned that the appropriate specs for the stock fuse on the SR4T are 5 X 20mm, Slow blow 1A so I plan to replace it with an SR Orange with the same specs. There are, however, conflicting views on the internet as to whether replacing the stock with an audiophile fuse with the same specs might be a good idea. Some say the replacement fuse must have a higher amperage rating for best SQ results.  Others (particularly the manufacturers) tend to discourage that idea of using a higher amperage fuse, and sometimes quite vehemently too, so what gives?

 

Hi sahmen,

 

FWIW, I've been using my SR Orange fuse at the stock rating (so "small"/5 x 20mm 1A Slow Blow) in my SR4T for going on 4 months now of near continuous, 24/7 usage (I don't tend to turn my gear off) with no issues. While it's true that audiophile fuses have been known to blow and people often times order the next rating "up," I personally haven't experienced a blow with SR, HiFi-Tuning, or AMR fuses at stock ratings, and I've replaced quite a few fuses in a variety of gear. From anecdotes on the internet, it seems that these fuses tend to blow more often in preamps and amps. Not to be taken as a blanket statement by any means, though.