auricgoldfinger Posted July 13, 2018 Share Posted July 13, 2018 My preference would be for a DRXL 6A with the precision stepped attenuator and a voltage range of 9v to 19v. This configuration would be suitable for powering DACs and other devices requiring a higher current and voltage, but could also power many other devices like signal regenerators. Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted July 14, 2018 Share Posted July 14, 2018 1 hour ago, BigGuy said: My thought is that bang for buck might be best with SR4 powering last device before DAC, e.g., USB decrapifier?! The last device before the DAC is often the best place to start, but you can easily experiment and find the location that works best in your system. Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 1 hour ago, str-1 said: I might have been unduly sensitive and misread. The people on that thread remind me of religious zealots who take everything Rob Watts (the deity) says as the Gospel. They get upset whenever someone contradicts something that he has stated as a truth, regardless of the actual reality of the situation. (See DAVE power supply as an obvious example.) Adyc 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 I guess that will keep you from voiding your warranty. ? Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 6 hours ago, str-1 said: Thanks @Jiffi32. Unfortunately, that cable does not appear to be available with a UK plug, which seems to be a problem (for me) with some other popular not-too-expensive cables frequently mentioned on the forums, such as the Pangea cables. I would welcome hearing from others about their experiences with upgrading power cables for use with either the SR4 or the SR7, and also experience with using power conditioners. What has worked well and what has worked not quite so well? My SR4 is clearly not yet delivering its best being fed (for the moment) with a standard cheap kettle cable. VH Audio will build a cable to your specification: VH Audio has the new Furutech DPS-4 Bulk AC Power cable in stock. This is Furutech's state-of-the-art bulk cable, made with the new DUCC conductor material. Available for DIY termination into your favorite connector (I recommend the Furutech FI-50 NCF). I also offer a termination service into Furutech's FI-50 series connectors, if you are not a DIY'er. To order a completed cable, simply purchase the cable, and FI-50 series connectors, and add the termination charge (per cable). str-1 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 @str-1 Here is another source for a fully assembled cable: https://www.tweekgeek.com/Furutech-DPS-4-OCC-DUCC-Power-Cable/ You'll likely get a better price from VH Audio. str-1 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 I have asked Rob Watts on the Head-Fi Official M-Scaler thread to eliminate the guess work. Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 The definitive answer is 5.5mm x 2.5mm https://www.head-fi.org/threads/hugo-m-scaler-by-chord-electronics-the-official-thread.885042/page-96#post-14501921 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 6 minutes ago, feelingears said: I now consider cables components unto themselves because for better or worse, I can hear them. What this means is that my “sense of balance” is no longer offset by the cost of the component attached to a cable. Interesting viewpoint. I think it has merit. Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 24 minutes ago, rettib2001 said: Out of interest, has anybody been in communication with Paul over the last month? The last couple of emails I've sent asking for a quick update regarding completion/delivery of an SR4 purchase from the November batch haven't had replies. I know he's got a lot going on in both his professional, and from what I gather, personal life but I wouldnt mind knowing what's going on. Cheers rettib2001 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 6 minutes ago, austinpop said: You know you're an audiophile when... ...you become a Brexit expert to predict GBP-USD fluctuations to pick the perfect day to pay for your next SR4/SR7. I hope you timed it well. Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 7 minutes ago, ray-dude said: Thats so funny. I went through the same thing when I ordered my SR7 a couple months ago, and when I ordered my SR4 this morning (I’m a bit ashamed to confess, but those are the only two times I’ve paid attention to Brexit) Paying attention to Brexit will only drive you insane. 😬 Jiffi32 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted May 16, 2019 Share Posted May 16, 2019 Please post information regarding your SR4 build status to this new thread: Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 9 hours ago, highstream said: In Paul's description of the SR4, he doesn't include a power (mains) cord, instead suggesting that a higher quality audio oriented cord will improve LPS' sound. I'm using a PS Audio AC-12, which I have throughout my system. I'm posting this note, however, to suggest consideration of something more. With the SR4 and Paul's silver cable plugged into an iFi spdif purifier at my DirectStream dac, the tone warmed up, became more detailed and improved in most other ways vs. the Kora LPS I'd been using. After 10 days of burn in, which is admittedly shorter than my usual practice, I decided to take another step and swap in an Audio Magic Ultimate Beeswax fuse. That's the same fuse I use in the dac and ATC active floorstanders. The slight thinness/edginess and reduced dynamics I was hearing with the stock fuse were soon replaced by a much smoother, somewhat warmer, liquid and more dynamic sound. That's only gotten better over time, now 12 days or roughly 300 hours in. Yes, I know the AM fuse is among the more expensive ones (Kitsune does discount it), but I've long found aftermarket audio fuses do make a difference; after all, they are in effect an extension of the power cord, and thus help determine the quality of what reaches a component's power supply, and thus what the electronic circuits the power supply feeds get. Different fuses have different audio qualities, and I've found SQ doesn't necessarily correlate with price, so to each their own sound preferences and budget. I like the AM fuse over the popular SR Black because in my living room system I've found that not withstanding the SR's amazing PRAT, it's tonally on the cool (aka "neutral") side, which drives me batty. Note that I'm not looking to start a debate here about fuses (or power cords), just tossing out an idea for those who might be interested in experimenting. I've found that SR blue fuses sound better in some devices while the AM ultimate SHD fuse sounds better in others. There seems to be a mix and match component that I would imagine also varies from one system to another. Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 18 minutes ago, str-1 said: Thanks. I’ve been thinking about trying a Beeswax fuse for some time. I was hoping they had someone in the UK dealing in their fuses, but apparently not. I imagine the Beeswax fuse improved over the stock in many areas but where there any tonal changes. I’ve read that Beeswax fuses have a warm signature, and I’m not sure I want my SR4 to be much warmer. I have used Beeswax fuses in linear power supplies and don't consider them to be overly warm. Mostly, I find them smoother and more liquid sounding than SR blue fuses, which have more energy and greater transparency in comparison. I mostly prefer the Beeswax fuses in those power supplies, but my choice also depends on the component being powered. You might consider trying a blue fuse with your SR4. If you like it, then don't worry about the Beewax. SR offers a 30-day money back guarantee that removes all of the financial risk except for shipping. I would guess they have a dealer somewhere in the UK. The rule of thumb for the blue fuses is to order 1.35-1.6x the rated amount for your device. I do the same with Beeswax fuses in order to avoid a blown fuse. I haven't had any issues using the higher rated fuses. str-1 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 2 hours ago, sahmen said: Has anyone tried replacing the stock fuse on the SR4T with a Synergistic Research Orange fuse, or any other kind of audiophile aftermarket fuse? If so could you kindly report on what kind of difference it made. My SR4T is powering my Etherregen, and I just got an SR Orange fuse from the ongoing promo sale which I could try on the SR4T, if the change would be worthwhile. Any helpful thoughts that are based on first-hand experiences about the performance of audiophile fuses on the SR4T would be welcome. By the way Stephen from Paul Hynes LTD mentioned that the appropriate specs for the stock fuse on the SR4T are 5 X 20mm, Slow blow 1A so I plan to replace it with an SR Orange with the same specs. There are, however, conflicting views on the internet as to whether replacing the stock with an audiophile fuse with the same specs might be a good idea. Some say the replacement fuse must have a higher amperage rating for best SQ results. Others (particularly the manufacturers) tend to discourage that idea of using a higher amperage fuse, and sometimes quite vehemently too, so what gives? Why not try the fuse and decide for yourself? If there is no difference, remove it and try somewhere else. Abyss Man 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 I blew 2 blue fuses in my JS-2. Ever since then, I always order the next size up and have never had an issue. The ratio, at least with the blue fuses, was 1.3-1.6x the stock fuse rating. I do this with both SR fuses and Audio Magic fuses. Please don't start the typical fuse jabber about using overrated fuses, blah blah. We're already familiar with those arguments. BigAlMc 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 1 minute ago, sahmen said: I still do not have the fuse in hand yet, that is why I have not tried it. I posted the question when I ordered the fuse. I thought I might benefit from the collective experience of this forum before implementing the swap myself. I have only swapped a couple of fuses, so far, in my Metrum Acoustics Ambre Roon Bridge (I used the Audio Magic Ultimate Beeswax fuses in that case). I went with the Manufacturer's recommended specs then, and I have not experienced any issues... at least not yet, and the swap happened almost 2 years ago. The SR4T, being a power supply, seems like a different kettle of fish... I thought I might ask here about best practices from more experienced people even before my fuses arrive... It did not look like there was any harm in asking. Based on my experience with the JS-2, I decided to go with higher rated fuses. I don't know if the SR4T will have a similar issue. I have only used a 1.6A orange fuse in my SR4. In my experience with numerous power supplies, a higher rated fuse has never caused a problem. Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 1 minute ago, sahmen said: I am a bit confused about the language about ordering "the next size up," since the word "size" seems to refer to going from a small size fuse (5 X 20mm) to a large size one (6.3 X 32), which does not sound right. I am assuming then that you guys are speaking of going from say 1A to 1.25A in amperage ratings, in which case size refers to "amperage rating"... Correct? You are correct. We are referring to the amperage rating. Sorry for not being more clear. 2 minutes ago, sahmen said: So the point of going higher up in amperage ratings was to minimize the risk of blowing the fuse rather than improving its SQ performance? Okay got it, Correct, we're trying to minimize the risk of blowing a fuse. The higher amperage rating has no effect on SQ. (After I blew the second blue fuse, I asked Synergistic Research about getting a free replacement. They happily complied with my request.) sahmen 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 14 minutes ago, F208Frank said: Glad to see the company is still taking care of the customers previous, I came just to read what's up with the company since I saw a few posts about the company going out of biz. The company IS out of business. Paul Hynes repaired the SR4 as a courtesy. He is under no obligation to do so, and I certainly wouldn't buy a used SR4 expecting any kind of repair service to be available, in the event it were needed. garrardguy60 1 Link to comment
auricgoldfinger Posted April 11, 2022 Share Posted April 11, 2022 53 minutes ago, Pokey77 said: I think that Paul is still making custom power supplies like the SR7? I thought that the LLC that was making all the stock power supplies was what went out of business. @auricgoldfinger Can you clarify for us? Please spend some time reading the SR7 Calendar thread, beginning with the following post, where everything is discussed in detail. garrardguy60 1 Link to comment
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