Superdad Posted May 13, 2019 Author Share Posted May 13, 2019 1 minute ago, HumanMedia said: Quick question the output dc port is 2.1mm pin radius, what is the size of the input DC jack from the charger? the same? Yes, on the UltraCap supplies both DC-charger input jack and the pure, isolated DC output jack are 5.5mm x 2.1mm size. UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
Browniesbane Posted May 16, 2019 Share Posted May 16, 2019 UpTone thanks for the quick action on replacing my lps 1.2., which is now powering a urendu. The new new unit is running very hot—almost painfully hot to the touch. The urendu is also quite warm after a couple of hours use. ( I’ve set the lps1.2 to 7 btw). Is this to be expected? im wondering if I have a power problem since the Gumby dac powered on the same power strip seems quite a bit warm, more than the slightly warm I’m used to. Any suggestions? Link to comment
Superdad Posted May 16, 2019 Author Share Posted May 16, 2019 4 hours ago, Browniesbane said: UpTone thanks for the quick action on replacing my lps 1.2., which is now powering a urendu. The new new unit is running very hot—almost painfully hot to the touch. The urendu is also quite warm after a couple of hours use. ( I’ve set the lps1.2 to 7 btw). Is this to be expected? That's normal, and nothing to be concerned about. Is this your first time using the UltraCap LPS-1.2 to power your ultraRendu? I guess whatever you were powering with the LPS-1.2 previously was drawing less than 0.5A. Our UltraCap supplies have two operational modes: Low-charge-current mode for output loads less than 0.5A; and high-charge-current mode for output loads greater than 0.5A. In high-charge current mode the unit will run noticeably hotter--and hotter still as your approach a 1A load. But at all times the parts inside the unit are never hotter than a bit above half their rated thermal limits. The UltraCap case is the heatsink for the whole product. Also, the 5VBUS load (if any) from the DAC connected to the ultraRendu will add to the overall load on the UltraCap supply. 4 hours ago, Browniesbane said: im wondering if I have a power problem since the Gumby dac powered on the same power strip seems quite a bit warm, more than the slightly warm I’m used to. Any suggestions? Sorry, that part does not make sense to me. Your ultraRendu and UltraCap power supply can not have any effect on the thermal state of a DAC (which in your case has its own internal AC>DC power supply). johndoe21ro 1 UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
HumanMedia Posted May 21, 2019 Share Posted May 21, 2019 Reading this thread there are quite a few people using the LPS 1.2 with the Chord Qutest. I’ve just received an LPS to ty with this DAC and I was wondering what additional tweaks people are using for this particular setup? General tweaks include vibration damping footers, replacement DC leads like the Ghent but are their any particularly beneficial to the Qutest? And are ther audible burn-In changes over time? Link to comment
R1200CL Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 @Superdad As you probably know, I have pushed your (yes mine 😀) LPS-1.2 in to its limitations the last week. Is there any chance the LPS-1.2 can drift away from its voltage or current supply when it’s getting above 60 degrees ? (Due to a continues 1.1 A draw). Or even add damage to the equipment it supplies ? My understanding is none if the above can happen, as you several times has explained how well it’s tested. Will the possible current draw from my LPS-1, or any other thing differ, if I change the setting from my present 7V to 9V ? (As an example, I just noticed John said the LPS-1.2 should be set to 12V for EtherRegen for best performance, even though I think the LPS-1 can power it at 9V). I know you’re also questioning my measurements to probably close to 65 degrees. Which now is more back to normal (less than 55 degree C) where you can touch the LPS-1.2 for a longer time. Still with presumably same 1.1A load as earlier this week. What is your logic explanation to that ? I don’t think putting the LPS-1.2 vertically will change anything. As a general question to either you or John: Can electronic, (leave out computers or similar that has SW driven power draw), have a variable power draw the first hour to a week from first power up in order to stabilize itself ? Or even some hours after power up later ? What is your best suggestion to get better heat dissipation from the LPS-1.2 ? How much does the environment temperature affect LPS-1.2 temperature ? I hardly get above 25 or 26. I suppose you have costumes in a lot hotter conditions. Finally when, if ever, can we have an UltraCap LPS with something like between 1.2 to 1.7A supply out ? (You know best where to set the amp in order to please the marked) And hopefully below a $1000 price ? Would it need a bigger case ? And if so, can your JS-2 case be something to start with ? Also I’m planning to do some current measurements. Does it matter at all weather I insert the meter on plus or minus. To me not at all, but I like to do plus. Link to comment
Popular Post Superdad Posted June 4, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 4, 2019 On 6/1/2019 at 2:52 AM, R1200CL said: @Superdad As you probably know, I have pushed your (yes mine 😀) LPS-1.2 in to its limitations the last week. Hi Andreas: I was traveling since last Thursday but am finally back at my desk and have the weekend's e-mail mountain almost cut down to manageable size. Just a few more replies to go, but I'm taking a short break this afternoon. So let me see if I can address your questions and concerns. I do ask a favor: If you want to go further into thermal issues, please send me a PM (preferably to my e-mail) as I feel your issues may not be that pertinent to others. Quote Is there any chance the LPS-1.2 can drift away from its voltage or current supply when it’s getting above 60 degrees ? (Due to a continues 1.1 A draw). Not by any appreciable amount. I have run UltraCap units on our programmable electronic load--right at their 1.1A continuous limit--for hours on end, even overnight. Voltage stays steady within a few millivolts and current delivery is fine (load is in Constant Current mode so any change--which we do not see--would be inability or LPS-1.2 tripping over into over-current protection mode). Quote Or even add damage to the equipment it supplies? No. Not possible and has never occurred. The LT3045 regs we use (paralleled in a special, impedance-lowering fashion) are tightly controlled and fed by a TI TPS7A4700 reg, so the output regs are never even directly exposed to the voltage of the ultracapacitors. We have NEVER had or received report of an over-voltage incident. Quote My understanding is none of the above can happen, as you several times has explained how well it’s tested. That is correct. Quote Will the possible current draw from my LPS-1, or any other thing differ, if I change the setting from my present 7V to 9V? It depends very much on the device you are powering. Devices which exclusively use linear regulators starting at their input will generally draw the same amount of current regardless of the voltage you supply them (within their allowed range). So for example an ISO REGEN will draw the same 240mA whether you feed it 6V or 9V--and the excess voltage will simply be dissipated as heat by the linear regulators. Conversely, devices that use some form of DC-DC switching regulator (ideally fronting some nice linear regs) will draw less current with voltage input at the higher end of their range, and more current at the lower voltage. Quote (As an example, I just noticed John said the LPS-1.2 should be set to 12V for EtherRegen for best performance, even though I think the LPS-1 can power it at 9V). That recommendation is not for "better performance," EtherREGEN will perform exactly the same with 7V input as it will with 12V input. But due to our use of specially chosen DC-DC regulators paired with LT3045 linear regs, the total current draw of the EtherREGEN will be approximately 400mA less with a 12V input than with a 7V input. [We'll discuss this in the EtherREGEN thread at some point, but before anyone freaks out about our use of DC-DC regs I'll say just two things: The parts we chose have exceeding low emissions and capacitance, 2x typical switching frequency, and John made test boards to carefully tune pre-and-post inductors and capacitors so that what comes out of our LT3042/45s is pure as can be. If we did not utilized a DC-DC reg to feed each of the 12 LT3042/45 regs, then it would either be impossible to use LT3042/45s or we would have to build a fabulously large and expensive box with really big heatsinks. (We are talking many tens of watts here.) Either the unit itself or the power supply. The way we are doing it, every LT3042/45 gets fed nice clean voltage just under 1V above what its output is set for.] Quote I know you’re also questioning my measurements to probably close to 65 degrees. Yes, and I will question that every time you mention it. You measured with a glass meat thermometer. I measure (and have somewhere posted photos)--the LPS-1.2 running at full load for many hours--using a calibrated, $500 FLIR thermal imaging camera as well as a multimeter probe (which gives matching results). 54C is about as high as I have ever seen. Quote Which now is more back to normal (less than 55 degree C) where you can touch the LPS-1.2 for a longer time. Still with presumably same 1.1A load as earlier this week. What is your logic explanation to that? I do not know what loads you are putting on it. I think in reality you went from 55C down to 45C. But that was not with the same load. UltraCap units under the same continuous load do not randomly change their thermal output by 10 degrees. Quote I don’t think putting the LPS-1.2 vertically will change anything. Why not? Have you tried it? I have, and it results in increased air-flow around the case (which we designed to be the heatsink to air) and lower measured temps. Quote As a general question to either you or John: Can electronic, (leave out computers or similar that has SW driven power draw), have a variable power draw the first hour to a week from first power up in order to stabilize itself ? Or even some hours after power up later? Not typical, but since I know your use case is opticalRendu I will mention that different speed connections and network activity are likely to vary current consumption. Quote What is your best suggestion to get better heat dissipation from the LPS-1.2? Either stand it on its face (cables coming out the top) or better yet make a cradle for it so it stands on curved edge so that air even flows around. Or stick a big heatsink with thermal pad to the top. None of these will change longevity much as the internal temps are always well under the ratings of the parts. Quote How much does the environment temperature affect LPS-1.2 temperature? Well that's just normal physics of air temperature. You stay cooler in the shade than in the sun... Quote I hardly get above 25 or 26. I suppose you have costumes in a lot hotter conditions. We sure do! Quote Also I’m planning to do some current measurements. Does it matter at all weather I insert the meter on plus or minus. To me not at all, but I like to do plus. If your ammeter is a battery unit then it should not matter. On +DCV line is fine. I assume you know you have to cut a cable and put the ammeter in series with the line. Hoping you will use an accurate meter. Thanks for your enthusiasm for our products. Best wishes, --Alex C. Bernstein, so-no-mah and R1200CL 3 UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
BlueDL Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 On 6/5/2019 at 12:09 AM, Superdad said: or better yet make a cradle for it so it stands on curved edge so that air even flows around Are Uptone Audio maybe planning to produce such an item - maybe machined from aluminium? [Sorry if it’s been asked before]. Maybe I should brush up on my DIY skills, but the specific radius of curvature makes it tricky to get right. Link to comment
4est Posted June 7, 2019 Share Posted June 7, 2019 3 hours ago, BlueDL said: Are Uptone Audio maybe planning to produce such an item - maybe machined from aluminium? [Sorry if it’s been asked before]. Maybe I should brush up on my DIY skills, but the specific radius of curvature makes it tricky to get right. Drill the proper sized hole in a board and split it in two. Simples! Forrest: Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP> Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz Link to comment
Popular Post rodrigaj Posted June 7, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted June 7, 2019 Here is one I made out of cherry for my uR and LPS-1: The cables require you make a somewhat sturdy stand, although you could figure out a cradle set up if you wanted to. 1" hole cut in half with a sliding bottom for ease of removal. Two slots. Two little knobs. Sorbothane for the inside curvature of the split hole to protect casework. Superdad, soares, MikeyFresh and 3 others 5 1 "The function of music is to release us from the tyranny of conscious thought", Sir Thomas Beecham. Link to comment
Matias Posted June 15, 2019 Share Posted June 15, 2019 My impressions of Ghent Audio Gotham based DC cable used with my LPS-1.2 below. Superdad 1 1. WiiM Pro - Mola Mola Makua - Apollon NCx500+SS2590 - March Audio Sointuva AWG 2. LG 77C1 - Marantz SR7005 - Apollon NC502MP+NC252MP - Monitor Audio PL100+PLC150+C265 - SVS SB-3000 3. PC - RME ADI-2 DAC FS - Neumann KH 80 DSP 4. Phone - Tanchjim Space - Truthear Zero Red 5. PC - Keysion ES2981 - Truthear Zero Red Link to comment
Popular Post Puma Cat Posted June 21, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted June 21, 2019 I got my LPS-1.2 about a week ago and have been very pleased with it powering my OpticalModule. It is a clear upgrade in performance over the already excellent LPS-1. The presentation is quieter, cleaner, more detailed yet sweeter and smoother. I spent a couple hours on Sunday re-organizing the audio rack, re-dressing signal and power cables, etc. Concomitant with this, one of the enhancements I've observed of late are the benefits from reducing the impact of vibration on high-end audio systems. After reading the impact of vibration inducing triboelectric noise into the dielectric of signal cables, and acc. to Hans Beekhuzen and Caelin Gabriel, the influence of vibration-induced microphonics on electronic circuitry (and in particular with respect to digital streaming, crystal oscillators functioning as clocks), I've been researching the importance of mechanical grounding. This is something that was also brought to the forefront of my attention at a seminar on stereo system setup given by Sterling Trayle, that I attended in April. Sterling emphasized the importance of both electrical and mechanical grounding as foundational to an optimally set-up system. I've had these, Herbie's Audio Labs Tenderfeet, under the board supporting supporting my EAR 324 phono stage for about 6 or 7 years now.. So, while playing around with re-organizing my audio rack, I placed three of them under my LPS-1.2, playing the same reference content before and after. D*mned if placing the Tenderfeet under the LPS-1.2 didn't improve the audio quality and presentation even more. What I was very noticed was lower noise, improved clarity, and definition, as if the stereo image, instruments, vocals was slightly smeared and out of focus, and with the Tenderfeet, snap into "tack sharpness". What I don't mean here is over-resolution, edge, glare or stridency (as one would observe with over-sharpening a photo in Photoshop, ugh!)...what I heard was..."right". And...better. In summary, I heard a clear and very nice improvement and no downsides. Herbie's Tenderfeet are cheap, only $13.95 each. So, if you want make an inexpensive tweak to take your excellent LPS-1.2 even further, I recommend picking up a set of 3 (or 4). Bdht, Koso, Albrecht and 2 others 4 1 Digital: Mac Mini/Roon Core/Optical Module->long run of fiber->EtherREGEN->SOtM UltraNeo->Schiit Gumby DAC. Shunyata Sigma Ethernet/Alpha USB Amplification: First Sound Presence Deluxe 4.0 preamp, LP70S amp Speakers: Harbeth 30.2/Power/Cables: Shunyata Everest 8000, Shunyata Sigma XC and NR, Alpha XC and NR, & Venom 14 Digital PCs, Alpha V2 ICs and SPs. Link to comment
jamesg11 Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 Yep, had them under everything for about 5 years now. Even better on some items with the SuperSonic Stabiliser on top, ie dac, rendu, regen - though benefit is just as likely derived from the mass. macmini M1>ethernet / elgar iso tran(2.5kVa, .0005pfd)>consonance pw-3 boards>ghent ethernet(et linkway cat8 jssg360)>etherRegen(js-2)>ghent ethernet(et linkway cat8 jssg360) >ultraRendu (clones lpsu>lps1.2)>curious regen link>rme adi-2 dac(js-2)>cawsey cables>naquadria sp2 passive pre> 1.naquadria lucien mkII.5 power>elac fs249be + elac 4pi plus.2> 2.perreaux9000b(mods)>2x naquadria 12” passive subs. Link to comment
Puma Cat Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 1 hour ago, jamesg11 said: Yep, had them under everything for about 5 years now. Even better on some items with the SuperSonic Stabiliser on top, ie dac, rendu, regen - though benefit is just as likely derived from the mass. I believe that; I'll have to try the SuperSonic stabilizer some time. I know that having some mass on the top cover can help with coupling for mechanical grounding as well as preventing ringing, etc. The key is to know what the right amout of mass is. Too much can result in a dead, "wooden" sound. My guess is there is a sweet spot depending on the specific chassis, etc. Digital: Mac Mini/Roon Core/Optical Module->long run of fiber->EtherREGEN->SOtM UltraNeo->Schiit Gumby DAC. Shunyata Sigma Ethernet/Alpha USB Amplification: First Sound Presence Deluxe 4.0 preamp, LP70S amp Speakers: Harbeth 30.2/Power/Cables: Shunyata Everest 8000, Shunyata Sigma XC and NR, Alpha XC and NR, & Venom 14 Digital PCs, Alpha V2 ICs and SPs. Link to comment
SWL3600 Posted June 29, 2019 Share Posted June 29, 2019 It's been a while since I've been on this forum but I still use my ISO-REGEN/LPS-1 combo all the time. No problems since the purchase and all my digital files sound killer. Anybody want to take a crack at trying to convince me why I should go from the LPS-1 to the 1.2? The LPS-1 does what I need it to but trying to get better sound quality is never ending.....even though I'm quite impressed with what I've got going right now. Thanks! Link to comment
sockpit Posted July 1, 2019 Share Posted July 1, 2019 On 6/29/2019 at 7:11 AM, SWL3600 said: It's been a while since I've been on this forum but I still use my ISO-REGEN/LPS-1 combo all the time. No problems since the purchase and all my digital files sound killer. Anybody want to take a crack at trying to convince me why I should go from the LPS-1 to the 1.2? The LPS-1 does what I need it to but trying to get better sound quality is never ending.....even though I'm quite impressed with what I've got going right now. Thanks! I can take a crack at this. Mine powers a microRendu 1.4. I just replaced my LPS 1 with a 1.2. It’s better. Cleaner. I didn’t think it could get much better. It just is. Thanks Alex. Whether it’s worth your money, you’ll need to decide . . . Superdad 1 Link to comment
thyname Posted July 6, 2019 Share Posted July 6, 2019 If anyone has an LPS-1.2 available for sale, please PM me. Thanks Link to comment
Bernstein Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 I am impressed: I have the clean side of my Allo digione Signature connected to the 1.2 and it stays really „cold“. Once I attached the RPI it got really hot. But with the Signature (65mA-90mA drain) it is not even hand warm. I don’t have my setup ready yet, so I don’t know if it „really“ plays music, but looking at the settings in Roon an playback shown in the app it is active. I suppose, that the 1.2 charges with longer pauses in between due to the low current which reflects the low temperature. Superdad 1 Link to comment
Albrecht Posted July 8, 2019 Share Posted July 8, 2019 On 6/21/2019 at 3:01 PM, jamesg11 said: Yep, had them under everything for about 5 years now. Even better on some items with the SuperSonic Stabiliser on top, ie dac, rendu, regen - though benefit is just as likely derived from the mass. Hi, IME, - the LPS-1 and Rendu products are light and small enough to use the Herbie's "baby booties." I use these under my LPS-1 and ultraRendu and the also the Sonic Stabilizers on both. I also have noticed a lot of improvement by using Tenderfeet on the top shelf of my audio rack, then using another maple "board" and then Aurios on top of that and under my APL Universal player. One can shake the audio rack and the APL doesn't move at all. Cheers, so-no-mah 1 Link to comment
Bernstein Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 Hi folks, I have a Ultracap 1.2 powering my Allo DigiOne Signature. Stays cool and easy to forget about device. Well done engineering from my point of view. Unfortunately I am still not able to „hear“ something because my system is not ready yet and delivery will take time. Due to boredom and tinkering around with new Ghent Audio JSSG 360 cables I heard some click clack noise from the Ultracaps. It changes in frequency based on the current. Audible from 1-1,5m in a silent room (my ears are cat ears 👂 ). I already red about that in the Ultracap 1 thread and also mailed with @Superdad Statement was it is normal. I have no doubt that this is true + Amps are way louder with their transformers or other buzzing so I will surely live with it. But I am curious: Are all your Ultracaps working / sounding this way? I am wondering if there is some electromagnetic field radiating at the time of that click noise, which could influence other devices (my Digione is directly sitting on the Ultracaps)? Link to comment
Superdad Posted July 19, 2019 Author Share Posted July 19, 2019 On 7/19/2019 at 2:57 PM, Bernstein said: Statement was it is normal. I have no doubt that this is true + Amps are way louder with their transformers or other buzzing so I will surely live with it. But I am curious: Are all your Ultracaps working / sounding this way? I am wondering if there is some electromagnetic field radiating at the time of that click noise, which could influence other devices (my Digione is directly sitting on the Ultracaps)? Well I listened with headphones turned up very loud to the video you made at 1m distance. I could not hear anything other than your ambient room noise. And yes, I do not think you should have all that great piled right on top of your UltraCap LPS-1.2. UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
Bernstein Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 3 minutes ago, Superdad said: And yes, I do not thing you should have all that great piled right on top of your UltraCap LPS-1.2. Sorry my English seems to be insufficient: you mean it is too heavy or due to electrical noise and therefore distance? As I said: Cat 🐱 ears 👂 hearing the roots growing. I could hear it on my iPhone replaying the video Link to comment
Superdad Posted July 19, 2019 Author Share Posted July 19, 2019 6 minutes ago, Bernstein said: Sorry my English seems to be insufficient: you mean it is too heavy or due to electrical noise and therefore distance? Heat. Interference. Possible mechanical amplification of the tiny tic noise the inductor sometimes makes when the unit alternates capacitor banks. Try taking all that stuff off the top and see hear what results. But really nothing to worry about. I am sure that the transformers of most all the other gear in your system make vastly more noise than the near-silent tic of an UltraCap unit. UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
Bernstein Posted July 19, 2019 Share Posted July 19, 2019 2 minutes ago, Superdad said: Heat. Interference. Possible mechanical amplification of the tiny tic noise the inductor sometimes makes when the unit alternates capacitor banks. Try taking all that stuff off the top and see hear what results. But really nothing to worry about. I am sure that the transformers of most all the other gear in your system make vastly more noise than the near-silent tic of an UltraCap unit. Aaaa ok. Tried that also. No change. The heat is ok, but I will try to separate them from each other... Link to comment
Popular Post Bernstein Posted July 19, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted July 19, 2019 20 minutes ago, Superdad said: Heat. Interference. Possible mechanical amplification of the tiny tic noise the inductor sometimes makes when the unit alternates capacitor banks. Try taking all that stuff off the top and see hear what results. But really nothing to worry about. I am sure that the transformers of most all the other gear in your system make vastly more noise than the near-silent tic of an UltraCap unit. By the way: you are a patient guy, keep that up! PYP, Superdad and sockpit 1 1 1 Link to comment
Bernstein Posted July 21, 2019 Share Posted July 21, 2019 On 7/20/2019 at 12:25 AM, Superdad said: Heat. Interference. Possible mechanical amplification of the tiny tic noise the inductor sometimes makes when the unit alternates capacitor banks. Try taking all that stuff off the top and see hear what results. But really nothing to worry about. I am sure that the transformers of most all the other gear in your system make vastly more noise than the near-silent tic of an UltraCap unit. Hi! I just ordered this nice "mini hifi rack" to stack them appropriately rather than piling up a wobbly tower of tech This will work way better. 13cmx10cm and 4,5cm height per shelf. Link to comment
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