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Before I go into this kind of topic I wanted to say hello to the community! My name is Keith and I am 30 years old, just joined this site after many years reading it. I run my own website that is a non-profit HiFi (no ads, trackers, cost, etc.). The address is just www.HallmanLabs.com and I welcome anyone to come by and check out the site and make suggestions or comments on my articles and reviews soon. Request things in the comments and you might be surprised what you see one day!  I added an article about the troubleshooting here if anyone wants to read it there instead: https://hallmanlabs.com/2018/02/06/houston-we-have-lost-contact-es9038p-dac-troubleshooting/

 

Reviews are what has my butt to the fire, I just lost my ES9038Pro DAC this weekend while trying to test out a simple dedicated TCXO module ($40 on Ebay), maybe lost maybe not. My mistake came when I decided to give the module a parallel hookup with one of my DAC's transformers;  6Vrms inputs since it only needed 5V min I knew that was fine. The only problem is that my transformer is rated for 6V @ 2.5A x2 (twin secondaries) and this module only takes up to 0.5A. Now I can't be sure I even damaged anything yet, I unplugged it pretty quickly. I have taken voltages from all over the DAC including all the LT1963 and other regulators/LDOs in a list below. I am hoping by giving enough data someone can spot the cause of my NLOCK problems or point me in the right direction?

 

The oscillator module I used is just like this except that mine came without any oscillator so you can install your own. Or you can do what I did, put an oscillator socket and this board will take either full can or half size can sockets.  The module is advertised for DACs and CD players, so I assume 100MHz is inside the operating range: https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-5PPM-16-9344-8-4672-Mhz-Low-Jitter-TCXO-Clock-Module-Golden-Oscillator/132170134611?hash=item1ec5f43453:g:YrkAAOSwAL9UgBwg

 

 

 

Ever since I plugged that thing in my DAC has still worked in every way except what matters, playing music. I can go through all the menus, change filters and tell the unit to reset, change inputs or volume. No matter what I do (I2S in, Optical in, etc.), that "NLOCK" message is always displayed. I even removed the DAC from my enclosure because I have seen it work outside, but not inside (dead short caused by the IR receiver on display touching enclosure). I have already gone through insanely bizarre issues with this DAC. That makes me want to fix it even more vs. having to buy another one when I don't even know for sure what is wrong with this one. 

 

  • The first big question for me to ask: What is NLOCK that shows on my DAC screen? I assume the ES9028 has a very similar menu system/OS as the ES9038 considering they can go on the same PCBs except the ES9038 is only to get 6V, not 9V. I have spent hours reading and researching on these devices. I bet even the ES9018 has similar menus (they also can go into the ES9038 DACs if you want to downgrade!).

 

Answer: NLOCK = No Lock and is shown when the DAC can't lock onto a signal. The usual train of thought points you at the PLL (Phase locked loop), which is on the actual ES9038Pro IC, we believe. One important thing to note: if NLOCK is "on"/displayed there is never any output at all, not even static/hiss/etc. So if NLOCK is on, output is off.

 

 

  • Big Question #2: My DAC did not say DOP at the top before this happened, it was either PCM or DSD. Using an Amanero you don't need DOP. How did my DAC get switched into DOP mode for every input? Is there a way to refresh these DAC's with a new BIOS or something similar?

 

I had the ES9038PRO DAC running without issues for at least 2 weeks, maybe 3 using various discrete op-amp setups and taking notes for the reviews. I showed my readers all the I2S related accessories tweaks that I had available to test. This DAC accessory post on my site has the 2nd most views of ANY post/page next to my original review for Burson Audio that basically started the site.
 

Because of this interest  I wanted to test this seemingly harmless Dedicated TCXO module for supposed quality increases,  which has everything it needs to function except 2 AC lines (rated max of 12Vrms). I was also testing/measuring my twin 6V transformer, this was the power I sent to the TCXO module. I felt the voltage regulator on  the TCXO was getting really hot so I pulled it in less than 5 mins, the DAC was only turned on with it for about 1-2 mins. I can't find any signs of damage even with a 600x microscope to any component, but the screen always says (NLOCK w/ mode DOP & volume level # indicator)  no matter what I try I can't get this guy to come back to life for me and play music… 

 

Even though I put the original oscillator back in + fixed the only wires altered for this dedicated TCXO module. In the terminal block I removed the extra 2 wires holding the dedicated TCXO power wire into the power inputs of the DAC (they were in parallel), it didn't fix it, still NLOCK. Doing this for all the inputs is what concerns me, but I can't find anything out of spec so far. I don't have a real schematic, so that sucks. 

 

Each voltage reference point on the board all read within spec. I can't find even a hint of damage or even a bad solder joint anywhere. I do have 3x 1A fuses inside this setup. Each hot wire in this enclosure has their own 1A fuses, so no more than 1A could pass without breaking multi 1A fuses. The two transformers together can't pull 1A without blowing the main AC fuse in the plug. When I measure the DAC up and running, it usually only shows 0.10A and from there it barely changes. 

 

  • Big Question #3: Do you all think it is possible I killed my ES9038Pro DAC with an oscillator module? Is that even possible?

 

I could really use some help if you all think you might be able to assist me. I am outside the return policy of this DAC, so I would have to buy another if I can't find a problem. I love building stuff until this happens and I have nobody to ask for help that knows the device inside and out.

 

Here are the voltage readings I got on the following components:

 

Near  the three LA Nover capacitors, there are two LDOs right in front of them. All of these measurements were taken from the output side looking toward the power input side. If it helps I can put the numbers in the pictures.

 

  • One is a 337T my voltages were (from left to right looking at it and all the following measurements): -13.86V | -27.62V | -15.12V

 

  • Next to the that is the 317T: 13.85V | 15.11V |  27.57V

 

  • Then we have the two LT1963 which basically have the same readings so I'll just list one: 15.07V | 9.25V | 9.25V | GND (0V) | 3.3166V | 3.316V

 

  • Next to the LT1963 (silver heat sink and black heat sinks side by side = LT1963s) we have the LM7805: 9.64V | GND (0V) | 5.07V

 

  • Then for the DIP8 sockets I read +15.11V and -15.11V exactly on all four of them. There are three more small transistors (one really small C14A).

 

  • Once again this transistor pair has identical readings for the AMS 1117 1.2 1508: GND (0V) | 1.55V | 3.327V
 
  • The last power component was the tiny C14A which read: GND (0V) | GND (0V) | 1.66V on the side towards the op-amps and 3.305V | 1.663V on the other.
 
One last thing I wanted to note was the voltage of the power capacitors
 
  • Left to right, the first RH34 read 27.57V the RH38 read 27.59V the 2nd RH34 read 9.25V and the KMQ Capacitor read 9.65V

 

  • Oscillator voltages were read as:  Top Left: NC |  Top Right: 0.572V  |  Bottom Left: GND | Bottom Right: 3.315V

 

(Orientation for oscillator is from looking straight down on the PCB with the capacitors at the top and the outputs at the bottom. Or to make it simpler, look at picture number two in the OP and these follow that orientation.)

It is possible when using the dedicated TCXO module I had the top and bottom flipped which would have sent the 3.3V signal into the DAC.

 
 
Most of this was designed by myself using parts available and of course the base DAC. However, this one was not a DIY kit, I had to save time and get an assembled kit (DAC only, no transformers or enclosures, no schematic, etc.). I have spoken with the designer many times and he has been helpful, but I think he is away for like 2 weeks..
 
Please help!
 

Entire PCB Backside Big_sm.jpg

IC Section and Lower LDOs Sm.jpg

Main Capacitor Section and LDOs sm.jpg

OpAmp Section Big_sm.jpg

Whole Board Topside Angle 1 sm.jpg


Home: FUN01 v2.0 XMOS DSD DAC (Similar to Singxer SU-1)  -> I2S In -> Custom ES9038Pro (2x Sparkos SS3601, 2x Sparkos SS3602) -> Burson Cable+ RCA to RCA -> Yamaha RX-V863 -> Kimber KWIK-12 cable -> Wharfedale Diamond 220's
 
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I can't help you determine exactly what caused the problem you're experiencing or whether the DAC's operation can be restored, but connecting a transformer to a power supply input which draws less current than the capacity of the transformer is not a problem and should not have caused any issues. The circuit will only draw the amount of current it needs from a transformer with higher current capacity. For example consider an isolation transformer used for AC power which may have a capacity of 15A, they're commonly connected to components which draw a total current less than the 15A rating. You'll only run into a problem (and often blow a fuse if so protected) when you try to draw more current than the transformer is capable of providing.

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Is the oscillator in the picture the original one? It clearly shows 100MHz, but the one you linked to is 16.9344. That seems like it could cause some significant malfunction, but that should not cause anything to be permanently damaged.

 

Adding an AC powered board in parallel to a transformer powering another AC powered board should not inherently cause a problem. It could cause the voltage on the transformer to droop which might have caused a problem with some circuitry not working properly, but again that will not usually permanently harm something. 

 

Given you have a display that shows messages etc it sounds like there is a processor of some sort, it is theoretically possible that a low voltage on the processor could cause it corrupt its firmware. It's unlikely but it IS possible. If that is the case you would need to reload the firmware. I have no idea if that is even possible with your DAC.

 

John S.

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I was told that NLOCK means the DAC can't lock onto a signal and this points at the PLL (Phase Locked Loop). My buddy who said this, told me he thinks the PLL circuit is embedded in the ES9038, so to fix it I would need a new IC. Can anyone confirm either part of his statement?

 

 

14 hours ago, JohnSwenson said:

Is the oscillator in the picture the original one? It clearly shows 100MHz, but the one you linked to is 16.9344. That seems like it could cause some significant malfunction, but that should not cause anything to be permanently damaged.

 

Adding an AC powered board in parallel to a transformer powering another AC powered board should not inherently cause a problem. It could cause the voltage on the transformer to droop which might have caused a problem with some circuitry not working properly, but again that will not usually permanently harm something. 

 

Given you have a display that shows messages etc it sounds like there is a processor of some sort, it is theoretically possible that a low voltage on the processor could cause it corrupt its firmware. It's unlikely but it IS possible. If that is the case you would need to reload the firmware. I have no idea if that is even possible with your DAC.

 

John S.

 

The TCXO module is exactly the same except I put a 100 MHz oscillator in its place. The actual one I got didn't come with an oscillator on the board and I thought that might confuse some people if I linked to that one.

 

18 hours ago, audio.bill said:

I can't help you determine exactly what caused the problem you're experiencing or whether the DAC's operation can be restored, but connecting a transformer to a power supply input which draws less current than the capacity of the transformer is not a problem and should not have caused any issues. The circuit will only draw the amount of current it needs from a transformer with higher current capacity. For example consider an isolation transformer used for AC power which may have a capacity of 15A, they're commonly connected to components which draw a total current less than the 15A rating. You'll only run into a problem (and often blow a fuse if so protected) when you try to draw more current than the transformer is capable of providing.

 

Thanks for your input, I should have remembered that from the 2-3 years of Electrical Engineering classes. When you have something broken, then you begin to doubt everything you thought you knew how to do. 


Home: FUN01 v2.0 XMOS DSD DAC (Similar to Singxer SU-1)  -> I2S In -> Custom ES9038Pro (2x Sparkos SS3601, 2x Sparkos SS3602) -> Burson Cable+ RCA to RCA -> Yamaha RX-V863 -> Kimber KWIK-12 cable -> Wharfedale Diamond 220's
 
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First off I would get the data sheets for the original and the new clock board and make sure the output voltage for both. Most oscillators are 3.3V output, but there are a few chips that use a lower voltage clock. If you feed such a clock input with a 3.3V clock you COULD fry it. (don't ask me how I know this!)

 

Do you have a scope? My next debugging would be to check the signals going into the DAC chip look good, then look at the outputs and see if they look reasonable.

 

You can try tracing the clock signal from the oscillator to the DAC chip and see if there is anything in-between (chip, resistors etc). If there is, THAT might have been damaged by the new board.

 

Swapping that DAC chip is not an easy task if you are not familiar with the process. Make SURE nothing else is wrong before tackling it.

 

If you don't have a scope, now would be a very good time to get one!

 

John S.

 

 

 

 

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I've got a few scopes from 1980's 100 MHz with CRT to Digilent's Analog Discovery2.  Thanks for your input, I'll check out what you suggested and report back.

 

Oscillator voltage was one of the things I forgot to post here:

 

Top Left: NC 

Top Right: 0.572V

Bottom Left: GND

Bottom Right: 3.315V

 

Orientation is from looking straight down on the PCB with the capacitors at the top and the outputs at the bottom. Or to make it simpler, look at picture number two in the OP and these follow that orientation.

It is possible when using the dedicated TCXO module I had the top and bottom flipped which would have sent the 3.3V signal into the DAC.

 

 


Home: FUN01 v2.0 XMOS DSD DAC (Similar to Singxer SU-1)  -> I2S In -> Custom ES9038Pro (2x Sparkos SS3601, 2x Sparkos SS3602) -> Burson Cable+ RCA to RCA -> Yamaha RX-V863 -> Kimber KWIK-12 cable -> Wharfedale Diamond 220's
 
Headphones: Modded Aune T1 w/ 1963 Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy -> Kenwood Basic C-2 -> Magni 2 -> Audeze EL-8
 
Burson V5-OPA & V5i Initial Review   |  Hallman Labs (my personal review/build log website)

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3 hours ago, HallmanLabs said:

I was told that NLOCK means the DAC can't lock onto a signal and this points at the PLL (Phase Locked Loop). My buddy who said this, told me he thinks the PLL circuit is embedded in the ES9038, so to fix it I would need a new IC. Can anyone confirm either part of his statement?

ESS DAC chips use a PLL so the system clock doesn't need to be synchronised to the bit clock. The system clock does, however, need to be at least 192x the sample rate with a maximum of 100 MHz. If the system clock is too low, failure to lock onto the input is a likely outcome.

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37 minutes ago, mansr said:

ESS DAC chips use a PLL so the system clock doesn't need to be synchronised to the bit clock. The system clock does, however, need to be at least 192x the sample rate with a maximum of 100 MHz. If the system clock is too low, failure to lock onto the input is a likely outcome.


I have tried 3 different oscillators, two are Vanguard "Golden" TCXOs and none of them worked. Before I tried the module in question all of these oscillators worked without issue.


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These oscillators you've tried, were 100mhz variants directly on the DAC, or on the module? 

Your module, depending on the design, maybe not be able to do 100mhz... But even so, It shouldn't damage the DAC. 

From experience, if you have a power issue in the middle 6VAC terminal, you will not get lock but the DAC will power up normally. 

How are you swapping oscillators? Did you add a DIP socket to the DAC? Are you sure you didn't lift a pad or anything? 

 

 

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24 minutes ago, WuNgUn said:

These oscillators you've tried, were 100mhz variants directly on the DAC, or on the module? 

Your module, depending on the design, maybe not be able to do 100mhz... But even so, It shouldn't damage the DAC. 

From experience, if you have a power issue in the middle 6VAC terminal, you will not get lock but the DAC will power up normally. 

How are you swapping oscillators? Did you add a DIP socket to the DAC? Are you sure you didn't lift a pad or anything? 

 

 

 

Yes, I have a DIP-16 or DIP-14 socket made for oscillators installed to accept full size 4 pin oscillators (same ones I use on my Amanero) and I am very confident I didn't damage anything. I have been soldering for over 15 years, with over 5 years professionally. This oscillator module can do multiplex with the MCK/2 or MCK/4 and give the plain MCK signal all at the same time. I am sure it can handle 100 MHz as it is advertised as an upgrade for DACs and CD players. Thanks for the input! You don't think even if I gave the output of the oscillator pin the 3.3V power pin instead of the .5V signal it usually sees wouldn't cause damage?  See photo of oscillator module below for the socket used.

 

 

Modded Clock Module Upgrade Caps_sm.jpg


Home: FUN01 v2.0 XMOS DSD DAC (Similar to Singxer SU-1)  -> I2S In -> Custom ES9038Pro (2x Sparkos SS3601, 2x Sparkos SS3602) -> Burson Cable+ RCA to RCA -> Yamaha RX-V863 -> Kimber KWIK-12 cable -> Wharfedale Diamond 220's
 
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13 minutes ago, HallmanLabs said:

 

Yes, I have a DIP-14 socket installed to accept full size 4 pin oscillators (same ones I use on my Amanero) and I am very confident I didn't damage anything. I have been soldering for over 15 years, with over 5 years professionally. This oscillator module can do multiplex with the MCK/2 or MCK/4 and give the plain MCK signal all at the same time. I am sure it can handle 100 MHz as it is advertised as an upgrade for DACs and CD players. Thanks for the input! You don't think even if I gave the output of the oscillator pin the 3.3V power pin instead of the .5V signal it usually sees?  See photo of oscillator module below for the socket used.

 

 

Modded Clock Module Upgrade Caps_sm.jpg

Do you have schematic? This is the 9018 but Im sure they are same...

(9018 uses 80Mhz clock)

Are you sure about the voltages required at the clock signal pins?

New XLR ES9018 Schematic-diyhifishop.pdf

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19 minutes ago, HallmanLabs said:

 

Yes, I have a DIP-14 socket installed to accept full size 4 pin oscillators (same ones I use on my Amanero) and I am very confident I didn't damage anything. I have been soldering for over 15 years, with over 5 years professionally. This oscillator module can do multiplex with the MCK/2 or MCK/4 and give the plain MCK signal all at the same time. I am sure it can handle 100 MHz as it is advertised as an upgrade for DACs and CD players. Thanks for the input! You don't think even if I gave the output of the oscillator pin the 3.3V power pin instead of the .5V signal it usually sees?  See photo of oscillator module below for the socket used.

 

 

Modded Clock Module Upgrade Caps_sm.jpg

The oscillator takes 3.3V input...I have no idea what it ouputs, typically...

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Yeah, I have one of these high level schematics already that was updated for my board, but I do not have permission to share it. It is pretty close though.

 

I want the real schematic showing everything from power inputs to the outputs and all the interconnections. I am thinking about trying to make one. 

 

The pre-amp part of this DAC is pulled straight from the MBL 6010D design. I know because I built a clone of one, just haven't worked on editing the video for posting because this takes precedence.


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6 minutes ago, HallmanLabs said:

Yeah, I have one of these high level schematics already that was updated for my board, but I do not have permission to share it. It is pretty close though.

 

I want the real schematic showing everything from power inputs to the outputs and all the interconnections. I am thinking about trying to make one. 

 

The pre-amp part of this DAC is pulled straight from the MBL 6010D design. I know because I built a clone of one, just haven't worked on editing the video for posting because this takes precedence.

Did you say you have a scope? Im sure you tested the oscillator output already....? If its fine, the chip maybe lost.

I have a spare (mounted) 9028 chip sitting here in front of me...just saying.

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22 hours ago, WuNgUn said:

Did you say you have a scope? Im sure you tested the oscillator output already....? If its fine, the chip maybe lost.

I have a spare (mounted) 9028 chip sitting here in front of me...just saying.

 

Yeah, I have a scope and I too have a spare ES9028 chip. Last time I tried to install one of these 64 pin ESS chips I used Polyimide tape circles to hold the chip down. I used a hot air re-worker with the lowest air pressure as possible while still being able to melt the solder paste. As soon as it got hot enough the chip shifted on me. I managed to get it back off, but ruined the pad on one of my ES9028/ES9038 DIY boards. I wondered after that if I hadn't been better off using an iron and a skilled hand vs. blowing air at it.

I am going to be testing the device tonight with an oscilloscope and I'll try to capture images or video to share what I find. Besides looking for noise on the line, what else would there be to tell me there is an issue? I guess I'll use the ground clip on the probe at the closest GND pad or I'll run a wire from a GND.

I'll be using the Digilent Analog Discovery2 first as that is the easiest to capture images/video with. It's going to be tough, probing a chip this tiny. I will probably just put one of the breadboard type jumper wires in the probe's mouth/clip and then just hold that one wire instead of the entire probe going in there. Shorting a pin is the most dangerous thing about doing this type of diagnostics.

Thanks for the input and if anyone else has any ideas please share!


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14 minutes ago, HallmanLabs said:

I'll be using the Digilent Analog Discovery2 first as that is the easiest to capture images/video with.

That scope has a bandwidth of 30 MHz. You'll need something better if you want to capture the digital signals here.

 

Quote

It's going to be tough, probing a chip this tiny. I will probably just put one of the breadboard type jumper wires in the probe's mouth/clip and then just hold that one wire instead of the entire probe going in there. Shorting a pin is the most dangerous thing about doing this type of diagnostics.

Briefly shorting two adjacent pins on the DAC is unlikely to damage it. The worst case would be shorting an output pin to ground or a supply rail. The pinout makes this difficult, and it can probably withstand the condition briefly should it nonetheless arise.

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I am using the Analog Discovery2 DC coupled to check all the voltages to ensure clean power before I check the data lines.

 

With those I'll have to use my Hitatchi V-1065 100 MHz (CRT) oscilloscope and I'll take pictures with a camera to show any suspect. I hope you are right about touching two pins, but I 'll try and be careful!

 

So far all the power signals look good.


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Reread the post.  I would try the coax inputs until I was able to lock a signal. What is your source?  Have you tried different ones?

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@HallmanLabs: One thing I found telling is that you said the regulator on the new board felt very hot before you disconnected. To me, this means it was either getting too much voltage, or was trying to put out more current than it is designed for (or, possibly there is a problem with the new board). My guess is that you didn't connect the new board output correctly, possibly connecting 3.3v supply to the input of the DAC, where the output of the oscillator should go (normally around 0.5v). 

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9 hours ago, pkane2001 said:

@HallmanLabs: One thing I found telling is that you said the regulator on the new board felt very hot before you disconnected. To me, this means it was either getting too much voltage, or was trying to put out more current than it is designed for (or, possibly there is a problem with the new board). My guess is that you didn't connect the new board output correctly, possibly connecting 3.3v supply to the input of the DAC, where the output of the oscillator should go (normally around 0.5v). 


Yeah, that is exactly what I already said on both the website and post here in the OP was possible that I sent the power pin to the output pin with the oscillator. Even after I said, nobody said this was for sure even dangerous to the ES9038. ESS hasn't given out the real datasheet on the IC yet, I asked them already. It is possible this damaged it with 3.3V vs. 0.5V or possible, it did not. That is what I am trying to figure out and I gave up getting all the oscilloscope probing done last night. Every power pin I check looked clean and stable at the voltages I listed in the OP. 

Now I'll be checking the oscillator and the IC with my Hitatchi V-1065 100 MHz CRT oscilloscope, basically all the data signals. This is probably where I'll find the fault. It's tedious work trying to touch a pin on a 64 pin IC this tiny and get the oscilloscope in the right settings makes it a slow task. If I am going to find the problem though, this is how it will be found most likely (probing w/ oscilloscope).


Home: FUN01 v2.0 XMOS DSD DAC (Similar to Singxer SU-1)  -> I2S In -> Custom ES9038Pro (2x Sparkos SS3601, 2x Sparkos SS3602) -> Burson Cable+ RCA to RCA -> Yamaha RX-V863 -> Kimber KWIK-12 cable -> Wharfedale Diamond 220's
 
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Burson V5-OPA & V5i Initial Review   |  Hallman Labs (my personal review/build log website)

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Just now, HallmanLabs said:


Yeah, that is exactly what I already said on both the website and post here in the OP was possible that I sent the power pin to the output pin with the oscillator. Even after I said, nobody said this was for sure even dangerous to the ES9038. ESS hasn't given out the real datasheet on the IC yet, I ask them. It is possible this damaged it with 3.3V vs. 0.5V or possible, it did not. That is what I am trying to figure out and I gave up getting all the oscilloscope probing done last night. Every power pin I check looked clean and stable at the voltages I listed in the OP. 

Now I'll be checking the oscillator and the IC with my Hitatchi V-1065 100 MHz CRT oscilloscope, basically all the data signals. This is probably where I'll find the fault. It's tedious work trying to touch a pin on a 64 pin IC this tiny and get the oscilloscope in the right settings makes it a slow task. If I am going to find the problem though, this is how it will be found most likely (probing w/ oscilloscope).

 

I was thinking more of the little SMD components, like resistors and capacitors that may not have survived the larger voltage/current you may have sent through them. Hopefully the ESS chip didn't get damaged.

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55 minutes ago, HallmanLabs said:

Yeah, that is exactly what I already said on both the website and post here in the OP was possible that I sent the power pin to the output pin with the oscillator. Even after I said, nobody said this was for sure even dangerous to the ES9038. ESS hasn't given out the real datasheet on the IC yet, I asked them already. It is possible this damaged it with 3.3V vs. 0.5V or possible, it did not.

All input pins will withstand a voltage no higher than the supply voltage to the chip, if datasheets for other ESS chips are any indication. Unfortunately, I don't have the 9038 datasheet.

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56 minutes ago, pkane2001 said:

I was thinking more of the little SMD components, like resistors and capacitors that may not have survived the larger voltage/current you may have sent through them.

Those things are surprisingly resilient, at least for short periods of torture. If nothing is obviously blackened, it's probably OK.

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3 hours ago, mansr said:

All input pins will withstand a voltage no higher than the supply voltage to the chip, if datasheets for other ESS chips are any indication. Unfortunately, I don't have the 9038 datasheet.

 

 

You and everyone else, ESS sent me two docs when I requested all ES9038 documentation and one was a glorified sales ad/paper. The other was just the basic 64 pins assignments. By this point I expected the ES9038 whitesheet or atleast the full datasheet.

 

If there is little danger with short exposure to non-ideal conditions, then this thing might come back to life with the right troubleshooting.

 

Attached below is the ES9038 and ES9028 product briefs which is what ESS sent me when I asked for the real thing.

 

ES9028PRO__ES9026PRO_Product_Brief_121615 (1).pdf

ES9038PRO_Product_brief_121715 (2).pdf


Home: FUN01 v2.0 XMOS DSD DAC (Similar to Singxer SU-1)  -> I2S In -> Custom ES9038Pro (2x Sparkos SS3601, 2x Sparkos SS3602) -> Burson Cable+ RCA to RCA -> Yamaha RX-V863 -> Kimber KWIK-12 cable -> Wharfedale Diamond 220's
 
Headphones: Modded Aune T1 w/ 1963 Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy -> Kenwood Basic C-2 -> Magni 2 -> Audeze EL-8
 
Burson V5-OPA & V5i Initial Review   |  Hallman Labs (my personal review/build log website)

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Guys/Gals, I don't think I can do this by myself (probing the 64 pin ES9038PRO), after a few attempts. Since I have to use my old 1970 to early 1980s, Hitachi V-1065 100 MHz CRT oscilloscope. There is no smart mode to change settings on the fly to keep the signal inside the volt/div (y-range) or the time/div variable (x-range), like the Digilent Analog Discovery2 limited to 30 MHz can do. Trying to hold a breadboard cable lead on an ES9038 pad without moving, while adjusting the oscilloscope settings is very annoying to attempt.

I just checked to see what the rated bandwidth is for the Digilent Analog Discovery2 with the BNC adapter board. It just says "30 MHz+".  I assume the "+" can't be more than another 5-10 MHz or they'd just state that in the specs (30 MHz+ vs. 35 or 40 MHz).

 

https://reference.digilentinc.com/reference/instrumentation/analog-discovery-2/reference-manual

 

 

I am going to get a buddy to help me with this. I don't want to damage anything else because I can't secure the probe location. I have a SMD 8 pin to long lead clips, made to do stuff like this. I don't guess they have a 64 pin version lol.


Home: FUN01 v2.0 XMOS DSD DAC (Similar to Singxer SU-1)  -> I2S In -> Custom ES9038Pro (2x Sparkos SS3601, 2x Sparkos SS3602) -> Burson Cable+ RCA to RCA -> Yamaha RX-V863 -> Kimber KWIK-12 cable -> Wharfedale Diamond 220's
 
Headphones: Modded Aune T1 w/ 1963 Amperex Holland 7308 Bugle Boy -> Kenwood Basic C-2 -> Magni 2 -> Audeze EL-8
 
Burson V5-OPA & V5i Initial Review   |  Hallman Labs (my personal review/build log website)

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