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The Paul Hynes SR7


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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...

For those that have yet to open up their SR7, the following may save some time:

 

The screws used are Torx star-headed screws, size T20.

The usual Philips/Posidrive cross-headed screwdrivers won't fit.

 

I unscrewed the back panel, as Paul recommnded. There are wires connected to the back panel, but it only needs to be angled out slightly in order to get a grip on the top panel to slide that out.

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  • 6 months later...
On 1/10/2019 at 3:23 PM, auricgoldfinger said:

I blew 2 blue fuses that I was using in my JS-2.  SR was kind enough to replace the second one for free after I inquired about it. @austinpop told me that adding a 1.3-1.6x factor seems to be preferred (I'm not sure by whom), so I elected to go with a 1.6A fuse (vs. stock 1A) with the free replacement fuse.  So far, everything is fine.  🤞
 

Yes, I've read a number of times that audiophile fuses (not just SR's) seem to be more fragile than stock. So I ordered my replacement to be the next rating up (4A instead of 3.15A). It's a slightly increased risk, but it's getting to he point where the fuse is becoming more expensive than the electronics it is trying to protect!

 

Regarding vibration control, the SR7's side panels sound very solid when tapped, but the unbraced flat top and bottom panels sound a bit tinny, so these seemed the best candidates for vibration control. Using only whatever I could find in my spares box , I tried some reasonably priced  audiophile footers  below, and an unreasonably priced HRS damper plate above. Neither made much difference to SQ.

 

 

I then tried 3 dirt cheap KE "shake away" washing machine pads below. I previously had (very) minor success with these under DAVE, but no luck here. I then tried the KE pads at the sides (1 under either side near the transformer and the 3rd under the front panel - and here I found an improvement. It was subtle, but the KE pads are staying for now. YMMV an awful lot with this type of tweak.

 

None of the above made much difference to the transformer's physical hum that I had originally reported. If anything the KE pads under the sides made it slightly worse. It was loud enough to be clearly heard on the opposite side of a quiet room. I then realised that the hum wasn't constant - it followed  a 10 second wave:  At 0 seconds it was loudest, gradually reducing to near silent at around 5 seconds, then gradually increasing to loudest at around 10 seconds.  

 

Anyway, I've recently moved house, and I've been pleasantly surprised to hear that the SR7 is now permanently whisper quiet. I.e. I have to strain to hear any hum at all, even a foot away in a quiet room. So the original problem was caused by the house power supply, rather than the SR7 itself. Can anyone suggest what causes this?

 

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On 1/12/2019 at 10:11 PM, Middy said:

 

My isolation trans was pulsing and getting worse over time i tryed rubber Car panel and PC rubber noise blocker.

I even have a mains DC blocker..

Off another issue i bought a mains pass through reader, i was getting the max UK voltage of 251V in Birmingham.

I added the Power inspired pre Isolation trans as it outputs 230V Sine. This pulsing has gone. Moving to another part of the national  grid might have solved this for you.

Most trans seem to be 110 220 230v.

I dont know and want an answer if its core saturation, mag flux with higher voltages over 230v causing hum pulsation??? , not sure what others abroad have 240+V as well as UK.

 

Hi Dave, I don't think that over-voltage was the cause of my SR7 transformer hum. My new location measures 240v, whereas previously I was getting typically 230-238v. One difference is that new location's voltage is much more constant: Over a few seconds, it changes by only 1 or 2 tenths of a volt, Whereas the old location could randomly change by 4 or 5 volts. The very constant 10 second transformer hum pulsing did not match the very random voltage fluctuation, but the latter suggests that the power supply was less than optimum in some way.

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  • 1 month later...
18 hours ago, Johnseye said:

 

Ghent will also make you a JSSG 360 version out of Gotham cable if you ask. 

 

I had a poor experience recently when adding JSSG 360 to my SR7 DIY DC cable:

 

Started with 4 x Neotech 18AWG OCC solid core copper in starquad formation. Soldered to a Jaeger connector at SR7 end (2 wires per pin), and an el cheapo screw terminated 2.5mm plug at Hugo M-scaler end. About 0.6m long, no grounding.

Sounded great, but I haven't compared to any other cable yet.

 

I then added JSSG 360 and got worse SQ across the board (flatter, more smeared, reduced detail/dynamics etc).

I assumed I was imagining it, so let it run for a few days, but SQ remained disappointing.

So I removed the JSSG 360 and SQ immediately improved - it was very obvious, no further A/B comparisons needed.

 

I can imagine that there may be some circumstances where JSSG 360 would not give much improvement, but I can't see how it could ever make things worse. Any ideas?

 

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  • 1 year later...
7 hours ago, Exocer said:

What are people using for vibration control? Was the upgrade worthwhile?

Have been eyeing some iso acoustics feet.

I have iso acoustics Orea's under my SR7 (in the old-style "shoe box" enclosure).

 

It's important to get the right Orea model to match the weight of the component. I got 3 x Orea Graphites.

 

To get broadly equal weight distribution, I had to carefully position the 3 footers so that the one closest to the transformer wasn't overloaded. These footers have a soft rubbery material top and bottom, which suction-pad stick to flat surfaces, which means that they're awkward (but not impossible) to move once under weight. Also, my SR7 base had lots of screw-heads on it's bottom plate, so these are to be avoided.

 

To overcome the above, I first placed the SR7 upside down and marked the best positions with a bit of masking tape on the sides of the SR7. Once in place, these footers are very stable - unlike some rivals that slide about or are generally more precarious.

 

The end result was worth it for the incremental boost in focus and dynamics (for a relatively sane cost).

 

I first tried the same footers under my DAVE and M-Scaler (both lighter than the SR7) and heard no benefit, so the weight matching is crucial (better to go for the top half of the footer's weight range rather than bottom half).

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  • 8 months later...

Whatever the science says, changing the fuse direction in an AC mains inlet has changed the sound in every single case I've ever tried - including in my SR7.  I can't now remember which way round sounded best for my older-style enclosure.

 

BTW, now that I've significantly reduced my box-count as part of my downsizing objective, I no longer have any components with a DC input. So I'll be selling my 4-year old 3-rail SR7 shortly.

But first a question: At the back is a screw-slot voltage switch for 110/230 volts. Does anyone know if that is all one needs to change when shipping to a country with a different voltage system? Or is there something internally that needs to change as well?

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