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SMPS and grounding


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1 hour ago, Cornan said:

 

Great write-up John! ?

How about when you are using a floating SMPS, where the safety ground is not connected to the negative output or chassis? I pretty much use these everywhere with truly great results. Especially effective powering network devices.

It turns out the floating ones are the worst, the leakage current has nowhere to go except what it is powering. None of the SMPS I have connect the DC output to safety ground so all these tests were done with floating SMPS (I actually have over a hundred tests), grounding really does dramatically reduce leakage from these devices into what they power.

 

John S.

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3 hours ago, rickca said:

This is awesome, John!  It's going to be interesting to hear the impact of using this grounding adapter on things like routers/switches vs using a linear power supply.  Could I even do this with my powered studio monitors?

Every test I have done shows that grounding the DC output from a SMPS significantly reduces leakage current.

 

I have been doing other tests on networks and leakage, I will be making a post on that in a few days (probably in the thread on the Sonore forum).

 

John S.

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3 hours ago, mike eastman said:

John,  can you connect more than one of the adaptors to the same plug ? Any reason you couldn't eliminate the plug and connect the wire direct to ground wire in receptacle box?

Yes you could ground more than one SMPS from the same wire, just remember that the ground needs to come from the same circuit, preferably the same power strip/outlet box as the SMPS. So say you have two SMPS plugged into the same strip, then yes grounding them from the same wire is fine.

 

You COULD ground an SMPS from a wire connected to ta metal box IF that box is known to be grounded. I'm not going to be responsible for people taking outlet boxes apart to get to a ground wire.

 

John S.

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1 hour ago, Forehaven said:

ok, i give up.   what the hell is the dc adapter with pin outs??

Read the very first post in this thread. This covers how to build a grounding power adapter which grounds the negative wire coming from the DC output of an SMPS.

 

This adapter will only work if the existing connector is a 5.5x2.1 plug (many are).

 

The linked post covers a way to do this for a plug that is not 5.5x2.1.   In addition it covers a commercially available product that lets you do this grounding without having to build anything yourself.

 

John S.

 

 

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15 hours ago, sandyk said:

This morning, with a Teac  HDB850 STB working at 240V AC (approx.) I measured an average of 90V AC from the "earth" side of it's output jacks to Mains Earth with nothing else connected.

 With a 1 megohm "bleed resistor" connected from the "earth" side of it's output jacks to mains earth, it only dropped to an average of 50V AC, which is still way too high. 

 

Alex

Hi Alex,

well you have now found the high impedance and low impedance part of leakage current. The 1 Meg shunts the high impedance part but doesn't do much for the low impedance part.

 

John S.

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13 hours ago, sandyk said:

 

 

Comments Please ?

 

Alex

Highly unlikely.

 

Traditional "ground loop" which most articles on audio ground loop talk about is caused by induction of AC (hot/neutral) to safety ground. This only shows up if there is a long distance run of line wiring from one location to another. Such as you have 200 feet between your preamp and power amp. This CAN happen between components that are close together IF they are on different circuits and there is a long distance back to the panel.

 

In all the playing around with leakage testing I have been doing, including between circuits with a long path back to the panel, I have not once had a case of traditional ground loop, it has all been leakage.

 

So the probability of fixing leakage issues with ground is VASTLY higher than it will cause a traditional ground loop.

 

If someone is actually getting nasty buzzing when grounding chassis  there is probably something wrong with the wiring.

 

John S.

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, thyname said:

This is extremely difficult for me to understand. Way over my head. And I am pretty good technically, as a user.

 

So, maybe too much to ask, but it would be ideal if an extremely nice gentleman or gentlewoman can:

 

1 - Post an instruction video on how to do this

 

2 - Links to Amazon (or elsewhere) for each of the three components needed

 

Maybe just a wishful thinking from my part

If you don't want to build your own adapter you can buy the ifi groundhog, it does the same thing, but you don't have to build anything your self. It does cost $50 though.

 

John S.

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2 hours ago, austinpop said:

A couple more questions:

 

Anyone have an Amazon link for this sucker?

59e4d40fe38ca_ScreenShot2017-10-16at10_44_08AM.thumb.png.29d56ff41ca29650fa434ee9bd3e8b26.png

 

And is that bare wire between the male and female DC terminal blocks?

59e4d45ed427e_ScreenShot2017-10-16at10_44_25AM.thumb.png.3c91e5fb2065f92eeb1e28ef0c86cd34.png

The problem is there are no universal tags for this sort of thing. Cord end male plug gets some, grounded AC plug gets some, 3-pin AC plug gets some. You do NOT need an expensive audiophile plug.

 

Personally I think its best to go to a local hardware store, go to the electrical department and ask for a 3 pin AC plug, they will get you the right thing. The one shown was $3 at my local hardware store.

 

The CATV screw connect barrel plugs and jacks are best to get on amazon.

 

I just took some 14 AWG solid core wire I had in the drawer, stripped the insulation off and cut two short pieces. It doesn't have to be 14AWG anything from 18-14 will work great. Its easiest to use solid wire, you don't want to put stranded wire into the connectors, it is too easy to miss one strand which then coils around and touches the other side. You can use stranded wire if you tin the bundle first (twist the strands together then apply solder) this way you cant have an escaping strand.

 

Yep, mine was bare wire, with the large solid core wire there is no way they are going to wind up touching each other. It doesn't HAVE to be bare wire, that was just easier to do.

 

John S.

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On 10/23/2017 at 9:33 AM, thyname said:

Do we have to do this for every single SMPS we have to avoid any leakage in the circuit, or just for the device we want to "fix" (i.e. in my case the router and the switch)?

 

Anyone willing to do this for me? Willing to pay for the parts, shipping and labor. I am in USA (DC area). I am terribly scared of messing with many electric stuff due to an accident when I was little.

 

Thanks!

LPS in general have primarily the lower impedance leakage.

 

The problem with using a linear supply is that the output may not be grounded. An ungrounded output will not shunt the high impedance leakage from other network devices when used with one of the named switches. (other switches don't block network leakage whether they are grounded or not.

 

Thus if using one of the named switches AND using an LPS you still need to ground the output, not to shunt high impedance leakage from the lps, but to shunt the high impedance leakage coming from other devices on the network.

 

John S.

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2 hours ago, Bricki said:

?no worries. Sorry for the confusion. I made 2 "Swenson" grounding adapters. I put 1 between the 12v dc input smps on my router/modem. I put the other one on the 12v smps input on my sonicTransporter (roon core). I did this instead of purchasing the netgear switch John suggested so I could continue to use my 5v dlink switch running on battery. The other improvement was to remove my ethernet connection with my desktop computer and use WiFi instead. This means I no longer have a device on the network powered by a smps where the - dc output isn't grounded. All these tweaks added up to a significant improvement in sq ???

 

Ps... The lps1 powered sms200 is also attached to the dlink 5v switch - but I didn't attach a grounding adapter here because if I read john's post correctly it would be of no benefit 

If the LPS-1 is powered by an SMPS, it is still a good idea to ground the output of the SMPS (NOT the output of the LPS-1) in order to make sure that the high impedance leakage doesn't find some path into the audio works.

 

John S.

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Not really,

the shunt is to ground, that is what this thread is all about, the series has to be in series with the leakage, in this case it is the DC power, putting 100Mohm in series with the + and - of the power supply is not going to do any good, yep is will block the low impedance part, but you won't get any POWER through to run the device!

 

In some cases it is possible to block the low impedance part on SIGNAL connections, if the connection is all right with several K ohms in series. This is how the connection with a switch works, the transformers are 100 ohms impedance for the high frequency Ethernet signal, but in some cases can be significantly higher for the lower frequency leakage current, which is enough to block the low impedance leakage.

 

John S.

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10 hours ago, jabbr said:

@JohnSwenson nice investigation ;) 

 

Help a simple country boy out please: the term “high impedance leakage current” is making me a little dizzy as I try to drink my coffee on this Sunday AM. Impedance isn’t a term normally used to qualify a current so perhaps we should rename this before it takes on a life of its own — you mean “high voltage/impedance” = current ... what is a better term? 

 

Also these currents are going to be way more important at higher frequencies. I think if a circuit were made available to precisely illustrate the excellent point you are making here (this is all about parasitic capacitances and inductances) this frequency point will be better illustrated. (Yes— high impedance probes are essential when working with RF)

All current comes from some form of voltage between two points. No real voltage source is perfect, there will always be SOME impedance in series with that voltage. It might be 1 ohm it might be 1 mega ohm it might be 300 mega ohms.

 

This impedance shows up in what happens when you connect a resistance across the voltage source. For example if you have a 1K impedance source and put a 1 ohm resistor across it, you will get a very large voltage drop. If you put  a 1 mega ohm resistor across the source you will barely have any change. If the source is 300 mega ohms and you put a 1 mega ohm resistor across it, the voltage drop is large.

 

In the case of SMPS leakage there seems to be both a high impedance component and a low impedance component. At low frequencies the impedance was very high, about 300 mega ohms. I determined this by trying different resistors in series and to shunt to ground.  But it wasn't behaving correctly. I put a resistor in parallel that should have dropped the level by 80dB, but it didn't it only dropped by 30dB. Then I tried putting a medium range resistor in series, and it dropped down to below the instrument floor. The only way this can happen is if the source has at least two sources, one very high impedance and one much lower.

 

The source impedance DOES vary with frequency, but no where near close to what it would be if it was just a capacitor from AC line to output. It seems to be way more complex than that.

 

John S.

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3 hours ago, BigGuy said:

charlesphoto's post raises a question for me.

I understand that the PS for a router should have DC grounded but is it important to go upstream to the modem as well?

 

IF so I need to get a power extender strip with a lot more outlets...or find a source for inexpensive grounded LPS of varying output voltages for all these accessories! 

I'm sorry, I guess I didn't explain this well enough. IF the last switch before your audio endpoint (computer, renderer etc) is one of the named switches (FS105 and FS108) AND you ground the power supply driving THAT switch, you do NOT, repeat NOT have to ground the SMPS from any other upstream network devices, period. Grounding the PS to one of those switches will get rid of the leakage from all the other network devices you have. This is why I am singling them out, if you have one of these as the last switch, (and ground its PS) then you do not have to worry about leakage from anything else on the network, period.

 

John S.

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4 hours ago, thyname said:

 

Great explanation!

 

What about the scenario when no switch is involved (audio streamer connected directly to router), would grounding the router would take care of everything in the house, including another location that has a Switch? Or does this just work with the two FS105 and FS108 models you tested? Thanks!

What I have found is that most wired Ethernet devices (switch or otherwise) do NOT block leakage from other connections passing through them, even if their power supply is grounded. The exception seems to be a few switches, that when their power supply is grounded block leakage from other devices.

 

Thus grounding the PS to a router is probably NOT going to block leakage from other devices plugged into it.

 

If you cannot use one of the specified switches as the last point in front of your audio endpoint, then your best bet is to add one, they are not very expensive, just make sure you ground the power supply going into it. This arrangement will make sure that whatever leakage is going on in your network will not make it through into your audio system.

 

John S.

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3 hours ago, BigGuy said:

I see that there is a screw GND terminal on the back of the Netgear switch. 

 

Does that terminal need to be connected to ground using John's umbilical (modified with spade connector, etc.) IN ADDITION TO grounding the Netgear power supply?

 

At this point I think the only thing not grounded is me!  ;-)

The ground screw terminal on some Netgear switches is JUST connected to the metal box, it is NOT connected to the groundplane on the PCB. The groundplane is what needs to be grounded, so just grounding the screw does NOT improve leakage. The only way to be sure you are grounding the groundplane on the PCB is to ground the negative of the power supply, this is always connected to the groundplane.

 

John S.

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