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[phusis]

[phusis]

A bit of background info on above pictured speaker set-up of mine: 

Obviously an all-horn speaker system, the trajectory to which formed over the course of some years. Initially I felt inclined to move away from dome tweeters (for a variety of reasons), and tried out ribbon-based tweeter solutions from the likes of Raidho speakers, then moved on to waveguides hybrids (Amphion, S.P. Technology and hORNS), and by that time finally wanted to explore a more "through and through" approach with horn loading of the entire audible frequency spectrum to attain a fuller envelope in regards to coherency and dynamics in particular. At first I augmented my mains with a direct radiating SVS SB16-Ultra, but the decision to go all-horn with a pair of 15"-loaded tapped horns proved more than worthwhile. 

 

Indeed, coherency and overall uniformity of presentation achieved via all-horn loading is a major step-up compared to horn-hybrids, but it requires of one to accept the inevitability of size - especially where sub-territory goes (and this is where most go along with direct radiating subs, if they even get to implementing midbass horns); in my case the tapped horn subs take up 20 cubic feet per horn to achieve a ~23Hz tune @ 97dB sensitivity. 

Some all-horn systems requires of the listening distance to be quite substantial for the sound of each element to cohere into a whole, but in my case 11-12 ft. seems sufficient. And yet, the next move of mine may be going towards coherency in the time domain as well with Tom Danley's Synergy horns, which also means listening distance can be reduced significantly being the Synergy horns emulates a true point source. We'll see how it goes, but as is I'm extremely pleased with the sound from my system. 

 

/Mikael

[mourip]

Great system. Can you explain what your "shotgun" config is for your speaker wire?

Do you use two different thicknesses of Duelund to each speaker?

 

Thanks!

[phusis]

4 hours ago, mourip said:

Great system. Can you explain what your "shotgun" config is for your speaker wire?

Do you use two different thicknesses of Duelund to each speaker?

 

Thanks!

 

And thank you. 

Actually the shotgun configuration I'm using consists of two entirely different pairs of cables; the Mundorf silver/gold 1.5 mm solid-core cable, and Duelund's DCA16GA. For a while (close to 12 years now in total, with different speakers) I had already been running with the Mundorf in a single wire config with my current mains, but while an extremely good "monitor" cable I've always found it to exhibit a slight imprinting or signature of sorts, and one that shone through on all my previous speakers (where I've used it) as well in a similar fashion. Mainly it deals with a "reticence" in the upper bass/lower mids area, and a minute sense of glare/hardness further up in the frequency range. Overall it lacked a bit "bloom" and fullness to the sound. 

 

Then I read of the tinned copper Duelund wires (+ vintage origins) and their sonic traits, and not being expensive cables I set out to to exchange my Mundorf wires for a while with the Duelund's. What became immediately clear was that the tinned copper cables (in a baked, oiled cotton sleeve) addressed the areas with the Mundorf's I felt lacking, but not without its caveats; the highs now appeared too rolled off, and the overall presentation also felt a tad too rich or slightly fat even. I longed for a middle ground somewhere between the Mundorf's and Duelund's. 

 

Upon learning of this difference with his own ears an audio buddy of mine suggested that I simply shotgunned the two wires, because.. why not? And so we did in the immediate wake of his suggestion, and there we then sat with our mouths wide open when we heard the outcome of this - it worked! All I can say is that a great balance of insight and a naturally relaxed fullness has entered the sonic stage. 

[TJHUB]

6 hours ago, phusis said:

 

And thank you. 

Actually the shotgun configuration I'm using consists of two entirely different pairs of cables; the Mundorf silver/gold 1.5 mm solid-core cable, and Duelund's DCA16GA. For a while (close to 12 years now in total, with different speakers) I had already been running with the Mundorf in a single wire config with my current mains, but while an extremely good "monitor" cable I've always found it to exhibit a slight imprinting or signature of sorts, and one that shone through on all my previous speakers (where I've used it) as well in a similar fashion. Mainly it deals with a "reticence" in the upper bass/lower mids area, and a minute sense of glare/hardness further up in the frequency range. Overall it lacked a bit "bloom" and fullness to the sound. 

 

Then I read of the tinned copper Duelund wires (+ vintage origins) and their sonic traits, and not being expensive cables I set out to to exchange my Mundorf wires for a while with the Duelund's. What became immediately clear was that the tinned copper cables (in a baked, oiled cotton sleeve) addressed the areas with the Mundorf's I felt lacking, but not without its caveats; the highs now appeared too rolled off, and the overall presentation also felt a tad too rich or slightly fat even. I longed for a middle ground somewhere between the Mundorf's and Duelund's. 

 

Upon learning of this difference with his own ears an audio buddy of mine suggested that I simply shotgunned the two wires, because.. why not? And so we did in the immediate wake of his suggestion, and there we then sat with our mouths wide open when we heard the outcome of this - it worked! All I can say is that a great balance of insight and a naturally relaxed fullness has entered the sonic stage. 

 

I just want to share my adventure with Duelund wire.  I've tried 12, 16, 20, and 26 awg wire.  After listening to all kinds of configurations, I run a shotgun of 12awg/20awg for speaker cables.  The 12 is great for bass and is detailed yet weighty, and the 20 is not rolled off in the treble, yet has rich tone and textures in the mids (my speakers are bi-wireable obviously).  I've been very happy with this combo for some time.  I also made interconnects out of the 26awg, and they are fantastic!  So much so, two of my friends now run the same in their setups and were blown away.  One major note: DO NOT twist any of the wires!  The sound quality suffers very noticeably.  Also, nothing I've made is shielded, and all is dead silent.  

[Richard Dale]

9 minutes ago, TJHUB said:

 

I just want to share my adventure with Duelund wire.  I've tried 12, 16, 20, and 26 awg wire.  After listening to all kinds of configurations, I run a shotgun of 12awg/20awg for speaker cables.  The 12 is great for bass and is detailed yet weighty, and the 20 is not rolled off in the treble, yet has rich tone and textures in the mids (my speakers are bi-wireable obviously).  I've been very happy with this combo for some time.  I also made interconnects out of the 26awg, and they are fantastic!  So much so, two of my friends now run the same in their setups and were blown away.  One major note: DO NOT twist any of the wires!  The sound quality suffers very noticeably.  Also, nothing I've made is shielded, and all is dead silent.  

I use Duelund DCA16GA for speaker cables, and DCA20GA with KLE Absolute Harmony plugs for interconnects. I agree they are amazing for a lot less money than well known fancy cables. I twist my Duelund though.

[Iving]

I made an AES digital cable with Duelund silver ribbon 1.0. The ribbon can snap easily. But the SQ per unit money is just huge. Mine is heavily shielded but worked great just hanging off the XLR pins i.e. before I layered up the cable. Ribbon can't be twisted but lots of insulation and shield permutations are possible. I would try Duelund for anything but have succumbed to Mundorf Silver/Gold for DC cables currently under construction.

[mourip]

1 hour ago, Richard Dale said:

I use Duelund DCA16GA for speaker cables, and DCA20GA with KLE Absolute Harmony plugs for interconnects. I agree they are amazing for a lot less money than well known fancy cables. I twist my Duelund though.

 

Same here. Thanks to Jeff Day!

Duelund DCA16GA for speaker cables and DCA20GA for interconnects. Lightly twisted.

Rewired my speakers with DCA16GA also.

I tried the WE vintage wire first but the Duelund was much better in my system.

 

[Jud]

[The Computer Audiophile]

Love the classic Spectral. 

[AudioDoctor]

@Jud What is the device circled in red?

 

 

[adamaley]

On 2/19/2020 at 7:37 PM, The Computer Audiophile said:

Review incoming?

[TubeLover]

1 hour ago, AudioDoctor said:

@Jud What is the device circled in red?

 

 

Clearly I'm not Jud, but thats one of Magnum Dynalab's exceptional FM  tuners (MD90 series, I think)  with some smaller component on top of it. I have one of the original FT101's that made them famous. Sadly, no longer in use, as it is in a place now not reachable by antenna, and for lack of much in the way of useful FM programming available in my area. 

 

JC

[Richard Dale]

Here is my Klipsch RP600-M based system:

 

 

 

Top shelf: Gyrodec/SME V/2M Black

Second shelf: Allo USB Signature powered by an iFi USB Nano/2Qute

Third shelf: Magnum Dynalab FT101A

Bottom shelf: Glow Amp One/Tisbury passive pre/EAT e-Glo Petit

 

Cables are Nordost Heimal 2 phono and USB. Duelund DCA16GA speaker cables, and Duelund DCA20GA with KLE Absolute Harmony plugs for interconnects. Isotek mains cables and Finite Elemente Pagode equipment stand.

 

 

The rear of the room with a Vicoustic Super Bass Extreme on my desk, and more bass traps under the desk. Vicoustic DC2 diffusers and another Vicoustic absorber panel directly behind the listening position:

 

[Richard Dale]

This is my 'Future Fi' system. All active. No equipment stand, and no equipment other than the speakers. More spent on acoustic treatment than the system itself.

 

There are three GIK Tri-Traps along the left hand ceiling. A stack of three Vicoustic Super Bass Extremes topped with a Tri-Trap at each corner. Two GIK Scopus Tuned membrane bass traps at floor level on right hand side front. The diffusers on the front wall are black Vicoustic DC2s with GIK Gotham Quadratic diffusers painted black above them. The other panels are GIK Alpha series and Gatsby from the Impression series.

 

 

KEF LS50W speakers with KEF R400b subwoofers. KEF Performance stands with IsoAcoustics Gaia III footers, IsoAcoustic subwoofer stands. MCRU No 75 mains cables, Chord subwoofer cable in inter-speaker ethernet cable.

 

The rear of the listening room showing the 120x120 cm panels on the ceiling and another couple of GIK Tri-Traps at the rear corners:

 

[Jud]

5 hours ago, TubeLover said:

Clearly I'm not Jud, but thats one of Magnum Dynalab's exceptional FM  tuners (MD90 series, I think)  with some smaller component on top of it. I have one of the original FT101's that made them famous. Sadly, no longer in use, as it is in a place now not reachable by antenna, and for lack of much in the way of useful FM programming available in my area. 

 

JC

 

Hi JC and @AudioDoctor, that's the FT101A tuner and "Signal Sleuth" antenna amplifier from Magnum Dynalab.

 

Edit: It's interesting, because they're something like the turntable now. Sound is beautiful, but every station I can pick up here and many, many more in all corners of the country and the world are available streaming over the Web or my phone through the microRendu using Shairport, "no static at all," as Steely Dan would say.

[sandyk]

32 minutes ago, Jud said:

 

Hi JC and @AudioDoctor, that's the FT101A tuner and "Signal Sleuth" antenna amplifier from Magnum Dynalab.

Hi Jud

Physically, the speakers look very much like my old DCM QED 1A Transmission Line speakers which are 36" x

11 3/4"  x 9 1/4", even down to the socks and wooden (?) tops and bottoms.

 

Kind Regards

Alex

[4est]

On 7/27/2019 at 9:24 PM, Foggie said:

Thanks for the info!  A couple yrs ago? there was someone (maybe here) describing this same rack config - maple platform, cork blocks, granite etc..  Maybe it was you, can't remember. Anyway thanks.

 

I do however want to get Pennsylvania Blue stone for my mono's - suggestions on where to look/source?

 

I live in Michigan, and a local landscape supplier had it as well. Why blue stone instead of slate?

[AudioDoctor]

7 hours ago, Jud said:

 

Hi JC and @AudioDoctor, that's the FT101A tuner and "Signal Sleuth" antenna amplifier from Magnum Dynalab.

 

Edit: It's interesting, because they're something like the turntable now. Sound is beautiful, but every station I can pick up here and many, many more in all corners of the country and the world are available streaming over the Web or my phone through the microRendu using Shairport, "no static at all," as Steely Dan would say.

 

Awesome, I have thought about getting one of those from time to time. I use the FM tuner in my Mcintosh Reciever frequently to listen to MPR even though I could be listening to them online as well.

[sandyk]

2 hours ago, AudioDoctor said:

 

Awesome, I have thought about getting one of those from time to time. I use the FM tuner in my Mcintosh Reciever frequently to listen to MPR even though I could be listening to them online as well.

 

 Wherever possible, you should always use an external FM antenna with good multipath rejection such as a Yagi type antenna.

[AudioDoctor]

27 minutes ago, sandyk said:

 

 Wherever possible, you should always use an external FM antenna with good multipath rejection such as a Yagi type antenna.

 

Boy I sure am glad I have you here to tell me these things... I don't know what else I would do...

[Foggie]

7 hours ago, 4est said:

I live in Michigan, and a local landscape supplier had it as well. Why blue stone instead of slate?

No "real" reason per se, in researching this a while back blue stone had good mechanical properties for iso/vibration etc.. I think slate does as well, but its been awhile and honestly don't recall anymore. 

 

I have custom iso platforms utilizing springs and bearings for pretty much everything and was looking to have a base "platform" to set them on to look nice.  Never really found anything and ended up just getting several VTI amp stands for most of my components for my platforms to sit on for now.  It serves the purpose. 

 

[sandyk]

8 minutes ago, AudioDoctor said:

 

Boy I sure am glad I have you here to tell me these things... I don't know what else I would do...

 

 Not everybody is as knowledgeable as you are  Many wouldn't even know what a Yagi antenna is.

 The problem is that there are so many misleading advertisements for indoor antennas of various types where they make BS claims of reception up to 100KM, even on some homepages such as Yahoo, and other Ads about doubling the speed of your Internet Downloads for the gullible consumer.

[AudioDoctor]

8 minutes ago, sandyk said:

 

 Not everybody is as knowledgeable as you are  Many wouldn't even know what a Yagi antenna is.

 The problem is that there are so many misleading advertisements for indoor antennas of various types where they make BS claims of reception up to 100KM, even on some homepages such as Yahoo, and other Ads about doubling the speed of your Internet Downloads for the gullible consumer.

If everyone was as smart as me, and had the common sense and intelligence as well, man this world would be such a great peaceful place...

[Jud]

4 hours ago, sandyk said:

 

 Wherever possible, you should always use an external FM antenna with good multipath rejection such as a Yagi type antenna.

 

I have one that I still need to get around to putting up (holdup is that the thing I neglected in working with the contractor and electrician is a power supply on the roof for the antenna rotator and amplifier, but luckily it should not be difficult when it comes up in the priority list after all of my wife's landscaping projects). Happily it's a pueblo style house with a flat roof and all the radio and local HD stations I want to get are on top of a 10,600' mountain nearby, so no problem hiding it.