Jump to content
IGNORED

Show us your equipment / kit !


Recommended Posts

Hi to All,

I am born and bred in Minnesota, USA. Being proud of my State and its technological ingenuity I have put together a system comprised of all Minnesota products. Of course some of the micro electronic components do not find their roots in MN, but their assembly does.

....

 

Notably absent, but which could have easily been included in my Kit include quality products is ARC and Audio by Van Alstine. BTW, this is not a commercial.:)

 

And, of course, Computer Audiophile originates from MN!

Thanks for looking,

Fred

 

 

 

Supurb!

Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not." — Nelson Pass

Link to comment
hifitubes, are you using a sub with your cubes?

 

I am contemplating getting a pair for my Marantz receiver, taking the Undertone from my Druids, and replacing that with a Submission.

 

edit: How are you liking the cubes?

 

Interested in answers to both of these questions. Contemplating Cubes or Omen Bookshelves for my bedroom.

Link to comment
Hi Chris,

 

I had heard, although maybe incorrectly, that installing a 240V circuit involved an electrical compromise in sound quality.

 

Have you had a chance to use your 240V circuit or have have you heard differently than I have about using them?

 

Really great system.

 

Joel

I've never heard such a circuit can be a compromise. Some components run better on 240. Some don't really care. Like all things in this hobby, power is very case specific.

Founder of Audiophile Style | My Audio Systems AudiophileStyleStickerWhite2.0.png AudiophileStyleStickerWhite7.1.4.png

Link to comment

I am really enjoying the Cubes. Some folks have criticised their design but they image very well and are not beamy at all.

 

For having whizzers they handle it all so far, none of the breakup I was hearing on another brand. Try Melody Gardot "Amalia"; its recorded really hot and can challenge some whizzers.

 

I don't find them peaky or fatiguing. I'm about 6 months into a Decware SE EL34 straight amp and really learning to enjoy the SET sound; actually having a 6V6 SEP on the way too. I have these usually toed-in a bit but not in the pic.

 

The subwoofer is a Deep Hemp from Omega. It's not in the best spot but works very very well actually.

 

hifitubes, are you using a sub with your cubes?

 

I am contemplating getting a pair for my Marantz receiver, taking the Undertone from my Druids, and replacing that with a Submission.

 

edit: How are you liking the cubes?

DIGITAL: Windows 7 x64 JRMC19 >Adnaco S3B fiber over USB (battery power)> Auralic Vega > Tortuga LDR custom LPSU > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub

 

ANALOG: PTP Audio Solid 9 > Audiomods Series V > Audio Technica Art-7 MC > Allnic H1201 > Tortuga LDR > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub

 

ACCESSORIES: PlatterSpeed, BlackCat cables, Antipodes Cables, Huffman Cables, Feickert Protracter, OMA Graphite mat, JRemote

Link to comment
I am really enjoying the Cubes. Some folks have criticised their design but they image very well and are not beamy at all.

 

For having whizzers they handle it all so far, none of the breakup I was hearing on another brand. Try Melody Gardot "Amalia"; its recorded really hot and can challenge some whizzers.

 

I don't find them peaky or fatiguing. I'm about 6 months into a Decware SE EL34 straight amp and really learning to enjoy the SET sound; actually having a 6V6 SEP on the way too. I have these usually toed-in a bit but not in the pic.

 

The subwoofer is a Deep Hemp from Omega. It's not in the best spot but works very very well actually.

 

Good to know. I do like Melody Gardots The Absence, it is a great album. Do you find the treble lacking at all? That is the one concern I have with them versus a more traditional small speaker. Well, that and being able to integrate them with a sub properly. The guys at Zu said it would integrate perfectly with the Undertone sub, but according to the specs there would be a hole, so to speak, between 80-50 hz. How high do you have your sub going?

No electron left behind.

Link to comment
Good to know. I do like Melody Gardots The Absence, it is a great album. Do you find the treble lacking at all? That is the one concern I have with them versus a more traditional small speaker. Well, that and being able to integrate them with a sub properly. The guys at Zu said it would integrate perfectly with the Undertone sub, but according to the specs there would be a hole, so to speak, between 80-50 hz. How high do you have your sub going?

 

I'll pm you.

DIGITAL: Windows 7 x64 JRMC19 >Adnaco S3B fiber over USB (battery power)> Auralic Vega > Tortuga LDR custom LPSU > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub

 

ANALOG: PTP Audio Solid 9 > Audiomods Series V > Audio Technica Art-7 MC > Allnic H1201 > Tortuga LDR > Zu Union Cubes + Deep Hemp Sub

 

ACCESSORIES: PlatterSpeed, BlackCat cables, Antipodes Cables, Huffman Cables, Feickert Protracter, OMA Graphite mat, JRemote

Link to comment

System 221013

I am proud to present OB ALL. This system is based on Linn’s poweramps and Supravox’s drivers

I became DIY about 3 years ago for cheaper but higher quality speaker option. This OB model was first tested by an experienced audiophile friend and was the achievement of several years of hard work. I've followed him and did modifications too. It’s crystal clear reproduction and capacity of huge soundstage brought me right in this project. In the first 2 years, woofer were kept in boxes and finally testing OB for woofers too improved lower frequency without any roundness effects as tiny it could be.

It may please ECM label style lovers more than hard rock. It allows high dynamic range for high fidelity recordings.

 

- Source; lots of ripped cds but preferably HD 24 bits files of every possible certified HD music download legal store. Mostly jazz, acoustic guitar and classic music.

- Window XP, Jriver (MC18) player, (7.1 ch)

- Jriver’s parametric “XO” digital filters and correction filters.

- RME AES 32 PCI card, mixing 8 channels. 8 Digital output.

- AES cable and connectors

- DACs, 1 Bel Canto dac3 VB5 (mid), 2 Bel Canto dac3 (woofers and twitters), 1 Bel Canto dac2 (Subwoofer)

- Power-amps, 1 Linn 2ch 2250 on tweeters, 1 Linn 5125 5ch on mids and woofers, OAudio 500w on subwoofer.

- Speakers,

o Sub; 15”AE Audio TD15H in a RJ 300 litres box,

o Open baffle 42” x 63” open baffle 1 1/4 inch thick plexiglass

 Woof; Supravox 400GMF (15”)

 Mid; Supravox 215RTA (8”),

 Tweeters; Supravox TG1

Room, 2m ceiling, 7,3m long and 4m wide, lots of acoustic treatment.

 

Nice thread

salle 221013.jpg

HP droit 221013.JPG

amplis 221013.JPG

OB pres 221013.jpg

215RTA 221013.JPG

Link to comment
Very nice system. I'm interested in how you came to use such a wide OB design. In my experience, many speaker builders choose to have a baffle much closer to the size of the driver.

 

I'd love to see some on/off axis measurements if you've taken any.

 

Hi Alex

I came with this baffle width for acoustic short circuit matter. It's a calculation of the wave lenght and the distance from spk center to the end of the baffle. I can look for the reference if you want. I could do it tonight, it's in my old PC. If I remember, I should have one around 300hz. Further measurements for in and off axes would have to be refresh, It's a good idea to make it too. I'll do a sweep 20hz-20khz, on and a couple of feet aside.

 

Meanwhile have you read the SPL room mapping thread where I recently posted many maps of different SPL frequencies for a 65hz dip problem issue.

 

If you reply, I'll be delivering your request a little later.

regards

jacques

Link to comment

I am making my way through the SPL Room Mapping Thread right now with great interest.

 

I am by no means a speaker design expert, hell, I'm one step above novice at best. it just seems that from my reading, especially of Linkwitz, that he proposes baffle widths that relate to the frequencies of specific drivers. His designs generally have Open baffles that only surround the midrange drivers and/or tweeters by a few centimeters. So I'm interested in your design, being that the baffle looks to be the same width overall and does not have, as far as I can tell, symmetrical height above/below the drivers.

 

His reasoning, as I understand it, relates to the idea that using dipole speakers, primarily due to the reflections on the rear wall, leads to a more realistic sounding system. Even though his small baffles can allow for some cancellation of bass frequencies and comb filtering, that does not necessarily mean that using large baffles to prevent this is always the best option. He discusses that larger baffles often work like soffit mount speakers which he characterizes as sounding less realistic - even if the frequency response measures flat.

 

the big peak at 50hz in your room (according to the other graph), If I'm not mistaken, shows that you are not having this dipole low frequency cancellation, and your OB speakers are working sort of like soffit mounted ones. But the size of the baffle would lead me to think that you would get some low frequency cancellation and likely very little high frequency comb filtering.

 

The point is that I'm just interested as to if you tried different baffle widths, how/if you modeled the baffle size, and how you chose this in the end.

 

 

Frontiers

Link to comment
I am making my way through the SPL Room Mapping Thread right now with great interest.

 

I am by no means a speaker design expert, hell, I'm one step above novice at best. it just seems that from my reading, especially of Linkwitz, that he proposes baffle widths that relate to the frequencies of specific drivers. His designs generally have Open baffles that only surround the midrange drivers and/or tweeters by a few centimeters. So I'm interested in your design, being that the baffle looks to be the same width overall and does not have, as far as I can tell, symmetrical height above/below the drivers.

 

His reasoning, as I understand it, relates to the idea that using dipole speakers, primarily due to the reflections on the rear wall, leads to a more realistic sounding system. Even though his small baffles can allow for some cancellation of bass frequencies and comb filtering, that does not necessarily mean that using large baffles to prevent this is always the best option. He discusses that larger baffles often work like soffit mount speakers which he characterizes as sounding less realistic - even if the frequency response measures flat.

 

the big peak at 50hz in your room (according to the other graph), If I'm not mistaken, shows that you are not having this dipole low frequency cancellation, and your OB speakers are working sort of like soffit mounted ones. But the size of the baffle would lead me to think that you would get some low frequency cancellation and likely very little high frequency comb filtering.

 

The point is that I'm just interested as to if you tried different baffle widths, how/if you modeled the baffle size, and how you chose this in the end.

 

 

Frontiers

 

Alex, I really hope we’re not in a professional speaker design web site  I’ve followed basic information from mentors and I did modifications from trying things.

I've found the Dominique Petoin's calculation of acoustic short-circuit from his web site. He was our main reference for this design, especially my French friend (Supravox retailer) Michel who provides us all needed information.

 

Dominique Pétoin calculation for acoustic short-circuit (see attached figure)

Le sujet : Baffle plan complet

 

The direct distance is “A” and the back signal distance is “B”.

F= C/D/2

Where; C= 343,4m/s, D= (B-A), F= short-circuit frequency.

 

In my case, there are two sides, the wall and the center. The important one is the center.

D= 3,6m-3,0m= 0,60m, though F= 286hz. From this frequency there will be a wider interaction between front and back driver waves for LF. This is where I have a quite good cancellation on my frequency response curve, around 300hz.

 

Fortunately, it can be considered that from 286hz and higher, there won’t be any problems from the OB. If I recall, in Petoin’s references, for all frequencies below 300Hz, the room configuration is entirely considered to be part of the speaker. Like for the wall side of mine, I have a panel that extend the D value to 1.8 giving a 95Hz acoustic short. In fact, the wall is there, also floor and ceiling, though this panel is not helpfull at all.

 

For the rest of your concerns, the baffle size, I can't be sure, mabe true or not that smaller are better? I won’t cut my 1 ¼”thick plexiglass board for trying again, go ahead yourself :-). I did a plywood one before to test it and I kept the same size because it sounded very-very good.

We always got the idea that available space in the room was the main argument for smaller ones, and this is without manufacturers needs. You first saw the large size of my OB. Imagine if it were made of plywood. I would not liked it very much because of the bad stage hiding effect. No one likes this size unless you can see through it. Plexiglass was available from a construction guy, very cheap (bank renovation) and it is easy to work with a router. If tou can’t see through, the lateral wings are good too.

court circuit 221013.png

Link to comment

There is the on and off axis measurement you asked Alex.

 

Right speaker, tweeter height (90cm), woofer, mid and tweeter, 20hz-20khz sweep. There is no great variation. The 400Hz dip "could" be in the range of a acoustic short-circuit, D=40cm.

 

Microphone at 1 meters distance, off axes 25deg.

on-off axes 221013.jpg

Link to comment

Latest addition to the household, Audionote AN/K-Spe c/w home made steel stands. The speaker cable is Kimber Monocle X, Im currently contemplating a move to silver audionote cable!

 

DSC_0568_zpsef083175.jpg

 

Also a couple of pictures of the mancave that houses all the media and some of the Led Zep collection etc

 

DSC_0529_zps92f31b74.jpg

 

DSC_0528_zps84193c2a.jpg

Sources are: Mac Mini 2010 / Nottingham Analogue Hyperspace c/w Jelco 750 D and Denon DL 103 MC cartridge. Phono Stage: EAR 834P. Power Amp: Audio Note Empress Silver into a Hattor passive pre. DAC: Lampizator Atlantic and Humming Board NAA Speakers: Horns.pl Mummys. Cables: Duelund DC 16 GA  - Audionote AN-SPX 27 Strand RCA and Albedo Silver RCA and Western Electric WE 16 GA. All digital music played through a Mac Mini using Roon and HQP. Power Supply: Gigawat PC2-EVO

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Does the jade Buddah help sound quality??

Eloise

---

...in my opinion / experience...

While I agree "Everything may matter" working out what actually affects the sound is a trickier thing.

And I agree "Trust your ears" but equally don't allow them to fool you - trust them with a bit of skepticism.

keep your mind open... But mind your brain doesn't fall out.

Link to comment
Does nothing for the sound BUT it keeps my cats of the amp and that's good enough for me.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8846[/ATTACH]

Now they are scary!!!

Eloise

---

...in my opinion / experience...

While I agree "Everything may matter" working out what actually affects the sound is a trickier thing.

And I agree "Trust your ears" but equally don't allow them to fool you - trust them with a bit of skepticism.

keep your mind open... But mind your brain doesn't fall out.

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]9400[/ATTACH]

 

I have replaced the Magnum Dynalab IA with a Prima Luna Dialogue Premium IA. A subtle but very nice change in tone

 

Cool setup PopPop. I have always liked Electrocompaniet gear.

Speaker Room: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Pacific 2 | Viva Linea | Constellation Inspiration Stereo 1.0 | FinkTeam Kim | Revel subs  

Office Headphone System: Lumin U1X | Lampizator Golden Gate 3 | Viva Egoista | Abyss AB1266 Phi TC 

Link to comment

Thanks, Blake. The ECD1 is connected to a PC running Foobar2000 via USB cable and spdif converter. I have a small listening room (12'X12') and the planar speakers are quite effective, but, I wish I could get them out away from the back wall a bit more.

That I ask questions? I am more concerned about being stupid than looking like I might be.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...